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Old 03-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #3556
Bungholio
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Aberdeen, WA
Oddometer: 600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty in all View Post
The progressive from what I understand should be your only choice for the PDS system because it contains no linkage that in essence does the progression on linked bikes.
Quote:
I ditched the stock rear spring for a Progressive Race Tech. Now that I have the progressive, the Sag can be set correctly for my fat but. Plus, when i load up the bike with gear for camping, I have confidence the progressive spring can handle the weight.... Very happy with this setup.

Quote:
Forget revalving for now ....

Have you guys re-sprung your bikes for your weight?
You need to be using the correct spring rates -- BEFORE -- you do anything else.

Best of luck! E-Ticket
I agree with E-Ticket.
I am about 185 naked and 6 foot. I don't have the 500, but do have the 530 and I had the bike re-sprung for my weight to Race Tech specs and it made a big improvement in control and ride quality. Straight rate springs in front, no changes to the valving-I told the tech that I felt the valving was fine-new seals and oil along with a good cleaning since it was the first time since new that they have been taken apart. He also installed a progressive spring for the shock and the bladder kit in the reservoir and telescopic needle. No valving changes there either. Pretty happy with the results
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:58 AM   #3557
SteveO
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Disenchantment
Oddometer: 1,188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengt Phorks View Post
On my shock the retainer unscrews right off the end of the shock without any problem. (2012 500 EXC)
Release preload ,remove spring, unscrew retaining ring.
2012 500EXC, not on mine. To replace the plastic screw, the whole shock had to come apart.... I even had the shock guy confirm this stupid issue. yes, the steel ring will come off, but not the plastic set screw....
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:17 PM   #3558
Enduro Outlaw
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Oddometer: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengt Phorks View Post
Maybe you went the wrong way by raising the fork tubes. It decreases the rake and trail which makes the front want to slide out. Think about mountain biking in the sand, its very hard to keep the bike going in a straight line without the front washing out. By lowering the fork tubes you increase the rake and trail which makes the bike more stable and stops the front end from skittering around and breaking traction.
Here is my setup. I weigh 250+ with gear. The fork tubes raised 8 mm in the triple clamps and I am using the the stock springs (4.2)
I have a 8.4 spring on the rear with 4.5 inches of sag and the rebound setting is 2 clicks harder than the comfort setting. When the bike was new the 7.6 spring felt too stiff and as it broke in I went to a 8.0 then to the 8.4. I took about 50 hours before the suspension settled in.
Tire selection goes from the Metzler Enduro Extreme to Dunlop 606's. Right now I am running a Pirelli Scorpion on the front. All the knobs on the edges have broke off but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

The bike is so stable I can darn near drag the handlebar in a corner while waving at the girls.
Your right.. I left everything the same except reset the compresion and rebound back to the "Standerd" possitions per manual and went for some laps. It turns better so I'm going to try to drop the forks back down in the clamps and try again. Handling is more important to me than being able to tip toe..haha

Just gonna have to revert to the old off balence bailout method from now on.. good thing I have radiator braces and good bark busters.

Enduro Outlaw screwed with this post 03-20-2013 at 02:24 PM
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:42 PM   #3559
Colemanfu
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: DAYTONA USA
Oddometer: 3,460
Head light on/off project

On my old LC4 I had a switch that would turn the head light on and off, loved it - I wanted to do the same with my 500. 2 reasons so save my bulb, I'm on my 3rd and to be more stealth ha. Total cost = $4.00 for the switch, had the scrap aluminum hanging around.

I made a little box to hold a simple push/pull on/off switch.

We know the stock dash is very tight. I tucked it on the brace for the stalk for the left turn. The lip goes under the stalk and I'll use 2 mini nuts/bolts to hold it in place.


Here is a pix with the mask forward a bit. You can see how it wraps under the turn brace to give support when I pull the switch.


My question to the electrical experts is... what wire should I tap into? The brown on the side or the green or blue on the bottom of the light?
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:07 PM   #3560
2on2off
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Central California
Oddometer: 1,267
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJG2 View Post
You mentioned you have XCW map -its might not be #701 latest and greatest -actually a EU map

Id find out the # on your ECU map and before you add stuff like JD tuner or that magic mod get the #701 ECU map loaded at a local dealer- many people have only that Map and are very pleased -

701 map
set idle
check tps

that might do it
I have the following map installed on my 2012 500EXC with the FMF Factory 4.1 RCT muffler installed, desmogged, and it works great:
# KM787 EU12C 0601

On my 2013 KTM 500EXC, desmogged, with stock muffler and the end screen removed bike, I just installed the following MAP:
#KM787 EU12C 0701

I will be testing this map on the 2013 500EXC this weekend on a 3 day ride in Nevada with elevations ranging from 4,000 - 9,000 ft. and temps ranging from 19-70 degrees. This is the map that was recommended to me to cure the intermittent "flame out" I was experiencing.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:15 PM   #3561
2on2off
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Central California
Oddometer: 1,267
Acerbis 5.3 is great

Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
For those that have ridden the 500 with both the Acerbis 3.0 gallon and the KTM Hardparts 3.4 gallon tank what were your ergonomic and riding experiences comparing the two?

Is the KTM slimmer at the tank/seat junction where you grip your knees and legs?

For example, when I rode my 525 with the Hardparts compared to a Clark the Hardparts felt nice and slim between my knees and the width of the shrouds showed their girth only when extending the leg up by them for turns. Whereas the Clark felt thicker through the middle but no shrouds cluttered the legs when motocrossing through turns.

Since Clockworks has done the new mold (to correct fitting problems that were documented on this thread) on their tanks for the 500 has anyone tried the new mold? Does it fit without issues, concerns? what are the latest impressions on the Clockwork?
I have not used the fuel tanks listed above but was waiting last year for the Safari 4.0 gallon fuel tank to be released. It was taking so long I finally decided to buy the Acerbis 5.3 and am I glad I made that decision.

I have exclusively used 4.0 gallon fuel tanks in the past on a DRZ400S and Honda XR650L. I liked them but like the fuel range of the 5.3 so much better and do not feel it is too wide for my 500EXC.

It is wider than the stock tank but that doesn't bother me the way I ride. Here is a few pictures:



It clears my KTM Radiator guards and is easy to install with no modifications:
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:05 PM   #3562
Ronin ADV
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Northern Sierras
Oddometer: 594
I finally did something about that stock torture device of a seat







I had it made like my other Renazco seats, narrower on the front for control then wider in the back so I can slide back some for more comfort when I'm just cruising.
This is the third seat they have made for me and I consider this an essential mod on any of my bikes.
Its worth every penny.
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Red dirt, rocks and sand; Riding the southern UTBDR, WR250R vs EXC 500 - a comparison
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:11 PM   #3563
ABYSS
KTM
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Oddometer: 1,198
I have a brand new hard parts 13L

Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
If anyone wants to unload a 13L Hardparts tank, or an Acerbis drop me a PM please.

never even out of the box. if your interested
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:01 PM   #3564
fasteddie23
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Joined: Mar 2012
Oddometer: 40
[/QUOTE]

Is that hi/lo switch for your headlight? Where did u get it and how did you wire it up?
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #3565
J.Johnson
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: So. Ca.
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddie23 View Post
Is that hi/lo switch for your headlight? Where did u get it and how did you wire it up?[/QUOTE]

I am just guessing. But the hi/low is most often used for heated grips


Sent with this high tech chingadera!
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:27 PM   #3566
Bengt Phorks
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Joined: Sep 2012
Oddometer: 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colemanfu View Post
On my old LC4 I had a switch that would turn the head light on and off, loved it - I wanted to do the same with my 500. 2 reasons so save my bulb, I'm on my 3rd and to be more stealth ha. Total cost = $4.00 for the switch, had the scrap aluminum hanging around.

I made a little box to hold a simple push/pull on/off switch.

We know the stock dash is very tight. I tucked it on the brace for the stalk for the left turn. The lip goes under the stalk and I'll use 2 mini nuts/bolts to hold it in place.


Here is a pix with the mask forward a bit. You can see how it wraps under the turn brace to give support when I pull the switch.


My question to the electrical experts is... what wire should I tap into? The brown on the side or the green or blue on the bottom of the light?
From the wiring diagram,
Blue wire - High beam
Green wire - Low beam
Brown wire - Ground
Put the switch on the ground wire.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #3567
Bengt Phorks
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Joined: Sep 2012
Oddometer: 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enduro Outlaw View Post
Your right.. I left everything the same except reset the compresion and rebound back to the "Standerd" possitions per manual and went for some laps. It turns better so I'm going to try to drop the forks back down in the clamps and try again. Handling is more important to me than being able to tip toe..haha

Just gonna have to revert to the old off balence bailout method from now on.. good thing I have radiator braces and good bark busters.
When I first got my bike I kept tipping over when making a slow turn because i would stall the bike. I raised the idle and hold the clutch halfway in and that stopped most of the falling down silliness.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:57 PM   #3568
Nomad
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin ADV View Post






I had it made like my other Renazco seats, narrower on the front for control then wider in the back so I can slide back some for more comfort when I'm just cruising.
This is the third seat they have made for me and I consider this an essential mod on any of my bikes.
Its worth every penny.
hey ronin, what handle is that on the side there?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:47 PM   #3569
SoilSampleDave
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: The Delta Ghetto, GA (aka PTC)
Oddometer: 1,657
I threw the bike away a few times last weekend. Anyone have a right hand side radiator shroud and rhs front turn signal they want to part with?
I actually just broke the clear cover on the front of the turn signal. Those things will actually take a pretty good beating!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:50 PM   #3570
Nomad
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoilSampleDave View Post
I threw the bike away a few times last weekend. Anyone have a right hand side radiator shroud and rhs front turn signal they want to part with?
I actually just broke the clear cover on the front of the turn signal. Those things will actually take a pretty good beating!
pm sent.
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