Dynojet PC-5, with Autotune, and full exh. system Tune...

[gbtw]

My google chrome redflags that website so if you could upload it on something safer i would appreciate it.

Erling, thank you for doing this, looks like it is exactly what i am looking for! hope to do it soon :)

[battlecattle]

Originally Posted by gbtw

My google chrome redflags that website so if you could upload it on something safer i would appreciate it.

Erling, thank you for doing this, looks like it is exactly what i am looking for! hope to do it soon :)

http://i.imgur.com/NZprxEk.jpg

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by toniguedes

Hi,

I believe that installing a relay, connected to the switched outlet, will fix that problem, as it will be triggered by only a few mA. Don't forget also to install a fuse!

That should work.... I just wondered if there was a direct wire, so I do not have to throw yet another relay in there.... getting pretty tight..... Although there are room under the dashboard.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by mousitsas

Why do you need a dyno? With autotune, the road is your dyno and a better one as such!

Dont believe the base map loads. It is not as simple as just input the parameters, and go ride..... unless you then ride...go back and adjust.....ride again....adjust....etc. We took the base map, and he changed parameters to suit his knowledge, and to back up what the dyno told him. We did 5 runs with the whole system, and it was perfect.... no need to tweak anything. As the guys that has done them dynoless..... From all the post I have seen by people doing this.... There have been a learning curve....and tail chasing....

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by battlecattle

Go with the delayed (60sec) switched source above the battery. There is a BMW connector and I use it as a switched source for my fuse block.

You meen the bmw plug... if yes... That is what we did.... or you mean the other plug in there... We thing the draw is to big to just trigger the canbus batt. charger sensor.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Gaspare

Hi, friends... here you are the wiring diagram of our parallel:



Then, about the lean condition: I've carried out a mod onto IAT (quite similar to booster plug) able to enrich evenly 7% along the whole of the rpm range.
After this, the ECU leaned down again to AFR target thru λ sensor... So, don't think the bike (with OEM muffler & QD headers) is actually crazy lean.
It's simply on the BMW targeted AFR, that's - you're right - anyway clearly below the optimum.
The way is to change this target and design a new baseline, remapping.
Work in progress...

Thank you sir...... Great to have the electrical..... I am looking forward to see your end result. The a/f ratios depicted on the dyno graphs do not tell the whole story. When just driving around on the dyno with live reads..... with headers, and pipe....we were astonished to see up towards 20 a/f..... way too lean

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by gbtw

My google chrome redflags that website so if you could upload it on something safer i would appreciate it.

Erling, thank you for doing this, looks like it is exactly what i am looking for! hope to do it soon :)

Absolutely. If you have the pc-5/at, you can buy the the same map I have, from Eddie at SSW. It will save you a lot of riff raffing..., or he can sell you the package already loaded. Just a thought....

[ebrabaek]

A few extras. The first three runs ..... ( stock....Muffler......then headers, and muffler)..... dont tell the whole story. Those were done at WOT, and the stock map does use the o2 sensor there, but as we puddled around on the dyno, at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle... we saw way high a/f ratioes approaching 20, which is way to lean. As the stock map only "widebands" from closed to 1/8 throttle, and wot..... everything between is from the preloaded map, which is lean to start with....and leaner with pipe.....and waaaay leaner with headers, and pipe. Personally I would not run headers,and open pipe with stock map.....simply to dangerously lean...imho. You cannot hear, or see this, but the dyno reveals this.... To much horror.

[mousitsas]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Dont believe the base map loads. It is not as simple as just input the parameters, and go ride..... unless you then ride...go back and adjust.....ride again....adjust....etc. We took the base map, and he changed parameters to suit his knowledge, and to back up what the dyno told him. We did 5 runs with the whole system, and it was perfect.... no need to tweak anything. As the guys that has done them dynoless..... From all the post I have seen by people doing this.... There have been a learning curve....and tail chasing....

Indeed, you have to go back a few times accepting the trims, so it might take some riding (and usb fiddling), but the end result shouldn't be different than what a good brake dyno will provide, plus it is free. In fact the result will be even better as no dyno can simulate the road, or the way you ride.
I will soon do exactly the same to a friends 990, so I will know first hand.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by mousitsas

Indeed, you have to go back a few times accepting the trims, so it might take some riding (and usb fiddling), but the end result shouldn't be different than what a good brake dyno will provide, plus it is free. In fact the result will be even better as no dyno can simulate the road, or the way you ride.
I will soon do exactly the same to a friends 990, so I will know first hand.

Granted the dyno graphs were printed at wot, as that is for power......But... we fiddled around " driving on the dyno" and were able to see live numbers as when you ride, so I will agree that you can achieve same results over a period of time.... But...as a one stop setup....I'l take the dyno....any time. The real secret is the tuner's infinite knowledge of the PC-5 programming. That is where the real value shows. Before we started, Eddie asked what my concerns were, as he had not worked the 800 before, but were familiar with the bigger GS, and have done a few of those. He then proceeded to load the base map, and after a few runs, and map tweaking, it was done. If you are a knowledgeable guy like yourself, then most likely you can achieve same results over time. But many are not. This is the first time I have a bike with the pc-5/at circuit, although I have seen it in action many times, I am smart enough to not dick with something until I know what I'm doing..... specially if it can destroy the motor...... The whole idea, and money for that matter, was to draw attention to how lean this thing run, and only way to do this.....is on the dyno. I am however confident you will achieve what you are looking for.

[Gaspare]

@ ebrabaek: regarding the extra-lean at low rpm, fighting with a TM Mikuni for an XR650, I've heard something about a physiological behaviour.... pls look here @ 6th paragraph: http://www.bristoldyno.com/tech/airfuel.htm

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Gaspare

@ ebrabaek: regarding the extra-lean at low rpm, fighting with a TM Mikuni for an XR650, I've heard something about a physiological behaviour.... pls look here @ 6th paragraph: http://www.bristoldyno.com/tech/airfuel.htm

Yeppers.....As of to not to confuse too many people, I did not mention that we saw the lean condition as a read out from the AT O2 sensor on runs 3 and 4. The tail pipe sniffer is as you correctly pointed out not as accurate as the inline O2 sensor, but it was very , borderline dangerous lean when just running around on the dyno. By that I mean pretending you are riding normally.....except you are on a dyno..... Inside the regime that the stock map is NOT using the O2 sensor. I really dig the flat A/F line as the end result yielded..... Great article by the way.

[ebrabaek]

Ok just bought a micro relay from the shack, and are going to wire that in, to satisfy the stupid canbus.....

[ebrabaek]

Finally.... the aforementioned flogging of the Dame.....

First run all stock...
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[ebrabaek]

Second run.....stock, plus my own Carbon Fiber open muffler...
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