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Old 03-19-2013, 10:59 AM   #16
jerdog53
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by AndyT View Post
So, Casa Kiwi, in Trujillo is closed? I stayed there for a few days in 2006, and really liked it. Any idea if it got sold, or just being shut down? I looked on their website, and it only says they are closed.
Sadly yes it is closed now. I guess the original owner moved back to NZ a little over a year ago. This really cool kiwi lady named Kat has been managing it since then, but now Kat is ready to move on too. The tourist business is basically non-existent so it's too hard to keep the place running. I was the only guest my second night. Too bad, really cool place.

Even though it is closed, if anyone sees this post and is headed that way in the near term, it's still well worth a knock on the gate if you're nearby. I'm sure Kat would hook you up with a place to crash if you promise to buy cocktails and entertain her with some good stories.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:09 AM   #18
tadhaas
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Great adventure - wish we had met in Honduras

Now THAT is a true adventure. Well done. I have been traveling in Central America and Mexico since Nov and longer up in Canada and US. While we find plenty of adventure and dirt roads that aren't on the map we have never ventured out THIS far. Sorry to hear about the broken leg - didn't see the details on that yet but hope the recovery is speedy. My partner Gaila broke her ankle in Wisconsin last summer on the Trans Wisconsin Adventure Trail. No fun to be sure. Tad www.overlandnow.com
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:54 AM   #19
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:04 PM   #20
tricepilot
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Have we got to the busted the leg part yet?

Having a sangria and tapas party here with 30 people awaiting the announcement. Let's go Pete
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:58 PM   #21
milleralexk
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Cool stuff!

Thanks for posting
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:19 AM   #22
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From Belen, the next step was to get to Brus Laguna. There's a boat that leaves very early in the morning from belen for brus, getting there in time to catch the brus-ahuas-puerto lempira boat.

From what I could tell there is not a road from ahuas to Puerto lempira, though I didn't do a whole lot of research. The boat rides through this area are really fun, just ripping along these tiny little rivers and seeing how people live along the shoreline. Every so often we would pop out into a big open bay, cross it, and then be back in the little jungle rivers. I don't remember the lengths of the rides but these were pretty long trips, anywhere from 3 to 6 hours each.

belen to brus





Abandoned drug running boats were everywhere, stripped of motors and electronics.







more abandoned boats



Sometimes it gets really shallow and they jump out to push/pull or pole their way through.







This is at the boat dock in brus, transferring to the boat to ahuas









My six seatmates. The guy sitting behind me had a plaid gangsta hat, jean jacket and jeans, dark sunglasses, a six pack of beer, and a Kalashnikov casually slung over his shoulder. Definitely have to get used to lots of guns in this area.





boat dock in ahuas



um... did somebody forget their shotgun??



cool wheelchair



from ahuas there is a short ride of maybe 20 miles to the boat launch for Puerto lempira. there is only one road. easy ride.



this road dead ends in a muddy slough, where there were kids with canoes who took me the rest of the way down the river to the boat launch area.






Sideoff screwed with this post 03-20-2013 at 11:40 AM
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:21 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by tricepilot View Post
Have we got to the busted the leg part yet?

Having a sangria and tapas party here with 30 people awaiting the announcement. Let's go Pete
That's coming up after Puerto lempira. quite a mess. not sure I could've picked a worse spot in central america to go over the bars, but obviously all turned out fine since i'm here posting!
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:29 AM   #24
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I wanted to record my recollection of prices here for future travelers who decide to take this interesting route across Honduras.

In general, the standard rate for person + large piece of cargo (i.e. moto) appears to be double the ticket price. I verified this with several people and all the boats charged the same. I didn't have much of a problem with boats trying to overcharge here, only the belen/brus guy tried to overcharge me a little.

Exchange rate is approx 20 lempira/dollar.

Belen to Brus Laguna - 200 lempira for me and 200 for the bike.

Brus to Puerto Lempira via ahuas - 800 lempira for me, 800 for the moto. Prices were approximately half if you stop for the night in ahuas.

Canoe to Puerto lempira boat launch - I paid 150 lempira for this including loading the bike on/off the canoe and also the boat to Puerto lempira. At first that seemed like a lot but it was a lot of work and in retrospect it seemed like a good deal.

I believe that most travelers would not start in belen but rather in batalla, where you would catch a boat to palacios, and from there to brus. I can't confirm this because I hopped in Kevin's boat at batalla, but that was my general plan before meeting him.

In terms of getting the bike on/off the boats, there are porters at the docks. following kevin's lead I tipped these guys 20 lempira each and they seemed happy with that.

Sideoff screwed with this post 03-20-2013 at 10:34 AM
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:18 PM   #25
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This is good stuff, things for sharing and welcome to the Broken Leg ADVriding Club

Thanks for sharing!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:20 AM   #26
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Here's the boat launch for getting to puerto lempira. Some of these spots I was like how the F are we going to get my 450 lb bike into that boat???



Um... mind if I just park my bike here for a bit?



Somebody forget their gun up here?



This was an awesome ride. this guy was just flying through the rivers.









Here I made it to puerto lempira and the boat portion of the trip was finally finished. Looking forward to a big dirt ride from here down into nicaragua!



Around Puerto Lempira. This is a town of about 3,500.





PL boat dock





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Old 03-21-2013, 10:14 AM   #27
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It's a long, all-dirt ride from PL down into nicaragua and I was really excited to get back on the road!! After all those days on boats i couldn't wait to get back on the bike and actually ride.

Grabbed some breakfast in PL. Briefly met a missionary named Alex who lives in PL (he'll come back into the story later) who stopped in the same restaurant to get coffee. Got my exit stamps and canceled my honduras vehicle permit in PL at the immigration/customs offices in PL without difficulty.

Hit the road. It was an easy, flat ride and I was ripping along with music playing in my helmet, feeling good. About 50 miles outside PL I stopped at this military checkpoint and had a nice chat with the soldiers.



About 15 miles after that checkpoint I suddenly came up on a series of three dips in the road right in front of me. Hit the brakes but it was too late. Caught air off the first dip, hammered into the uphill part of the second dip, boosted up and forward in an awkward position with the front wheel way too low. Front wheel hit the uphill of the third dip at too steep an angle. I went somersaulting over the bars with the bike following behind. Took some hits on the head, shoulder, and legs, finally coming to a rest about 20 feet past the bike.

Took a quick inventory. Neck, shoulder, and left shin hurt but not too bad. Shoulder worked. Neck was fine. Ankle probably sprained. Ok, shit, I'm going to walk away! Then I tried to stand up. Felt a lot of pain shoot through my whole body. Caught me by surprise. Fell back onto the ground. Looked down my leg and saw that my ankle was dangling awkwardly to the left. Turned my leg and knee to the right but ankle did not follow, only terrible pain. Oh shit, I realized, my ankle is no longer connected to my knee. FFFFF!!!

Figured I was really on my own here. Spent about 30 minutes dragging around on my butt with my hands gathering bags and various bike parts back into one pile near the bike. Plan was to get the bike vertical and then either re-attach bags or hide them in the bushes and slowly ride back to the military checkpoint I had passed in 1st gear (since my left leg was the broken one).

Bike had landed with wheels up on a small hill and i knew i wouldn't be able to get it upright like that. With my functional leg I dragged it onto flat ground and disconnected the remaining bags to reduce the weight. Tried putting my back to the bike and lifting like I would normally do, but with one leg. Could get the bike 1 ft of the ground but then was stuck there. With only one leg I couldn't re-adjust my grip to lift any further. A couple times I tried using my left leg but it was useless. Tried to put weight on it but the pain was unbearable, plus my calf just buckled under the weight. Left me cursing, sweating, and rolling around on the ground. Also tried lifting the bike forwards but it was no use, couldn't even get it to budge like that.

Tried everything I could think of. As hard as this was for me to accept at the time, it was not possible to get the 450lb bike upright using one leg. At least not in the condition I was in at the time. Every attempt was causing me to sweat and curse and get more and more tired and I was at risk of using up my limited water supply. I knew that I could easily be spending the night there and needed to conserve my water. Plus I was totally exhausted and in a lot of pain. Didn't know whether my leg was bleeding inside the boot or not but did not want to take it off to check.

Realized that I was not going to ride myself out of this situation. I had two options: wait for help or try to walk. Dragged around on my butt until I found a walking stick. Tried to walk but quickly established that hopping 15 miles was going to be outrageously difficult. Decided that my smartest move was to sit tight and see if anyone came along. I had a SPOT locator beacon, at this point I hit the 911 emergency button. I bought rescue insurance through SPOT, and I also bought a separate travel emergency health insurance policy which included medical evacuation. I just needed to get to somewhere where I had communications.

Propped up against the pile of bags and sat back to wait. Figured I might as well take a few pics while I was there.





In this pic, if you look really closely at the road, you can kind of see the little dips that sent me flying. After riding 9,000 miles to get to this spot including thousands and thousands of miles of dirt, I couldn't believe I was sitting on this easy, graded road with a broken leg. But so it goes. The surprise is what got me. I should have been riding more conservatively.



After snapping these pics I sat back, shut my eyes, and waited.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:43 AM   #28
Sikday1
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Damn...wish both of mine were as big as one of yours! Great report and thanks for sharing!
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:44 AM   #29
QuestForADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideoff View Post
It's a long, all-dirt ride from PL down into nicaragua and I was really excited to get back on the road!! After all those days on boats i couldn't wait to get back on the bike and actually ride......

.
HOLY CRAP! Glad you're ok now
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:46 PM   #30
junglemototours
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HOLY CRAP! Glad you're ok now
Egualmente! Roads are dangerous.....
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