Suzuki S40 / Savage - Ryca Scrambler Conversion

[Dorzok]

Originally Posted by Krasniewski

Yeah, the problem is the mileage. You can't register an out of state vehicle in Cali with less than 7,500 miles. It should be lower for bikes, IMO - this only had 5k on the clock. Now with new clocks, the mileage isn't actual, so I'm not sure what the DMV will say. They verify mileage, VIN, and EPA stickers at the DMV or vehicle registration service.

I'm thinking of bringing them a picture of an ODO with more than 7500 and saying that it was what the bike had b/f I changed the clock.

Not a problem if the bike were registered to you in another state. Meaning if you lived in and registered it in FL then moved to CA before it had 7,500 miles on it then it's not an issue.

[Tenni126]

Originally Posted by Dorzok

Not a problem if the bike were registered to you in another state. Meaning if you lived in and registered it in FL then moved to CA before it had 7,500 miles on it then it's not an issue.

I guess it depends on the DMV maybe...when I brought my DR over here from Virginia they wouldn't register it because of the 7500 mile thing. But that was in '08, and it wasn't far off so I just rode till the VA tags expired and had crossed the 7500 on the odo.

[Tenni126]

Originally Posted by Krasniewski

...And finally - I don't think the vacuum portion of the petcock works... what an ass pain. It's fine in "PRI" mode (prime), which is OK except that you should turn it off (which I won't remember) when leaving the bike and then you don't have a reserve, which is terrible.

I wonder if the mechanical one from a Yamaha Raptor would fit...that's the one I used in my DR's tank...I'll look and see if I kept it.

[zap2504]

Originally Posted by Tenni126

I wonder if the mechanical one from a Yamaha Raptor would fit...that's the one I used in my DR's tank...I'll look and see if I kept it.

Also - there was a recent discussion in "The Garage" I believe on this subject.
"After much parts fiche searching, and the risk of $22, I found the petcock I need, and maybe it'll help some of you inmates as well.

This petcock is the standard unit from mid-80's TT600 Yamahas. Part number 34K-24500-02. Price thru most vendors is approx $15 plus shipping! Most online parts places or Yamaha dealers can get them within a week or two.

The base gasket and mounting screw holes fit both my DR650 and Kawasaki Super Sherpa. And eye-balling things, the petcock looks like it'd fit my KLX300 and XL250 too, so I'm thinking it's fairly universal.

The outlet barb points straight down! So this petcock can mount on the left or right side of a bike w/o the issues of a 90 degree outlet. It works well for situations where the carb inlet is on the left side of the bike, and the petcock mount is on the right. Perfect for the TM40 I installed on my DR!

The only potential downside to this petcock is a shorter-than-average outlet barb. It's only about 1/2" long with only 2 barbs so you need to use a strong wire clamp and be sure the fuel line isn't stressed.
The mounting base for this petcock is oval; 2.1" Long, 79" wide. The bolt/screw holes are .25" diameter and they're spaced 1.35" center-to-center.

In metric 53.5mm Long, 20mm Wide, Bolt/Screw holes are 6.6mm in diameter and they're spaced at 34mm center-to center.

The outlet barb is 6mmOD; 1/4" line would fit slightly loose. It probably needs 5.5mm metric fuel line."

[irondad01]

I got my petcock from Ron Ayers at ronaryes.com for my S-40. It is a manual one and I think it was for a Raptor 660. It was a bolt-on, no changes. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb. Their part # is 5LP-24500-01-00. SKU #808680. It was $16.30 + $5.00 shipping. The manual one takes care of some running problems the S-40 has because of a bad OEM petcock. It also makes it easier to get the tank off. Carl

[RedShark]

Thank you for the thread, Kras -it is much appreciated.

I've been interested in the Ryca project since I first read about it in some of the bike magazines - I didn't know about the Scrambler version though, I've always like cafe' bikes anyway. Good to hear they sound like a fairly good outfit - and also telling that the kits aren't perfect either. I hope they can survive for awhile, I like re-purposing stuff and Lord knows there are a bunch of Suzuki Savages sitting around in garages with low mileage on them (never liked the Cruiser riding position myself either). I just hope some less-than-knowledgable rider doesn't decide to sue them after he stacks and decides it's all the fault of the funny rear brake or something.

Best luck on getting it Legit - sometimes it's must a matter of who you are dealing with, so if you first don't succeed, try another branch if you can.

Take care and I hope the deployment goes well, thank you for your service to the nation.

[Krasniewski]

Redshark - glad to hear you've enjoyed the thread! The forum definitely keeps me going on the bad days - good advice and a place to vent when you need it. Not like the wife wants to hear about my bike project is sucking.

Anyway - good call on the Raptor petcock - I think it's what I have on my KLRE. I'll take a look and see what I can find. I still have the old tank to play with - thanks for the measurements, Zap! I really don't want to play the de-fuel game unless I know it's for a reason - measurements definitely will help.

Looking back, it's funny that I called out the petcock problem before I even knew mine had failed. Go figure.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by Krasniewski

... the packing is getting broken in or blown out as I'm quite sure the bike is getting louder.

I believe I have the same muffler on my street tracker.
(Emgo reverse cone 18")
They are known to be poorly packed and what there is blows out immediately.
Most users repack with a good fiberglass (or other) packing.
They are still rather loud and will make many enemies of bikes if you aren't mindful of the noise level.

Don't be one who adds to the move to make changing our exhaust system illegal.
I really don't like the sewing machine sound of most stock systems.

[Krasniewski]

Originally Posted by JagLite

I believe I have the same muffler on my street tracker.
(Emgo reverse cone 18")
They are known to be poorly packed and what there is blows out immediately.

Good to know. The muffler has a really long baffle in it - I'd like to redo the packing and shorten the baffle to make it more the size of a crumb cup, restricting flow. The tip screws on, but I think the baffle is welded in, which really sucks.

Anyway, had a 0820 appointment at the DMV today. At high RPM on the backside of Coronado Bridge the bike sputtered a little, then died. Luckily, it was the backside and I was able to coast clear of it. A nice fellow Sailor stopped and offered a ride, which was cool, but I passed thinking I might be able to figure it out, or I'd just call AMA Roadside Assistance, which offers free towing to members (join today!).

I found that the bike had no power, so I was thinking that the battery was feeding the bike the whole time and died - bad charging system perhaps. But the electricals were deader 'n 'a doornail, so I checked the fuzes. Sure enough, one was blown. Maybe the RR wasn't regulating the voltage well and it had blown at high RPM because of that? A walk through the barrio got me to a Shell station, where I bought six (one can never have too many fuses) 30a fuses to replace blown 20-amper. I swapped the fuse, and the bike fired right up.

A careful ride down the 5 got me to the San Ysidro (way better than Chula Vista DMV, btw) location, but over an hour late for my appointment, which meant waiting in the long line for a ticket for a longer wait. No problem, I read my book, "Dreaming of Jupiter," sequel to "Jupiter's Travels." Good stuff.

A couple of hours later, I got paperwork, to go and get a vehicle verification, which went quickly, unlike last time. After that and a 169 dollars I couldn't think of what else to spend on, I had plates! Title to follow in 4-6 weeks by government mail.

On the way home I noticed my blinkers weren't working - neither was my horn... or headlight... or tach. Weird - maybe a relay burned out b/c I put too big of a fuse in? Also, a little bit of a clanking noise was evident at higher RPM. I figured out the clanking, which goes back a couple of days. As some of you know, the Ryca Cafe kit had a strange foot actuated decomp lever for easier starts of the motor. They got flak for it, so this kit came with a manual lever. Somehow, and it may be me, but the return spring pushed the lever too far down so that while running, the lever would go up and down. So naturally, I took the spring off and it did OK. Now, if you push it up OR down while it's running, it hits the cam lobe, bouncing off in the opposite direction. The clanking was rapid movement of the lever up and down- so hard that when I stopped it with my leather-clad hand, it hurt my finger.

Now, when I got home and took a look at it, it all made sense. The good news is that I don't have a charging issue after all. I'll have to fix some wiring and think of what to do with the lever (not visible in photo). Keep it in mid-position with a spring or rubber band perhaps - or remove it completely; the bike starts fine w/o it.

[Tenni126]

Feck, that's ugly. I damn near burned an old Porsche 914 right to the ground running a round with a "modified" wiring harness like that. Lucky it wasn't worse

[Krasniewski]

Funny thing - the KLRE had a bit of this kind of issue - you'd think I'd 'a learned by now. I swear I'm going to quit this nonsense one day and buy a new bike that I'll never have to do anything to but swap fluids.

EDIT: Forgot to add in carb info. I went another 1/2 turn out on the idle screw, now at 2 full turns out. Idle seems good, but if you just slightly crack the throttle while riding, the bike stumbles a little. 1/4 throttle and up to WOT is good. Taking off from a stop is tougher than I'd like, I'm a bit off on that initial throttle addition. I think the needle is good as that's more throttle - maybe the idle screw needs to come out more? It seemed to change the idle a bit, but not the off-idle at all - pilot jet maybe? I did go with the bigger size they provided, but later they say the stock idle jet is better. It's worth a try later on I guess - this carb is easy to pull off.

[Krasniewski]

http://www.nightrider.com/bt30/carb_jet_ranges.htm

1/8 TO 1/4 THROTTLE
SLOW JET AND THROTTLE VALVE CUTAWAY:

Note - keep in mind that the idle adjust screw (air/fuel screw) gives a good indication of a properly sized slow jet (#6 in illustration). The slow jet calibrates the mixture from both the idle bypass and the idle orifice in the jet block. If the idle screw is properly adjusted, but the engine does not have good response when the throttle is wicked open, it is usually a sign of a lean mixture and the slow jet will need to be replaced with one size larger (richer) and the air/fuel screw re-adjusted. Consequently, if the throttle is only partially opened, such as in a trailing throttle situation, and the bike tends to load up, emitting a deep tone when the throttle is returned to full open, it is usually a sign of a rich slow jet. If the slow jet does not clean up this part of the circuit, the slide can be substituted for one with a different cutaway. The higher the number, the larger the cutaway will be, allowing more air to the jet block/nozzle screen leaning the mixture and, conversely, a smaller cutaway will richen the mixture with a greater effect up to 1/4 throttle.

Sounds/looks like the Idle Mixture Screw has less/shorter effect on the fuel map and I need to tackle a new pilot jet... but I'm not really convinced I'm too rich based on the way the bike rides - I feel lean, which doesn't match the Ryca recommendations... unless I went too lean by leaving in only one washer under the needle - I went down from three to one. I dunno nothin.

Got the wires fixed up - went faster than expected. Only two wires needed surgery - the rest just wanted band-aids. =)

[zap2504]

Originally Posted by Krasniewski

Sounds/looks like the Idle Mixture Screw has less/shorter effect on the fuel map and I need to tackle a new pilot jet... but I'm not really convinced I'm too rich based on the way the bike rides - I feel lean, which doesn't match the Ryca recommendations... unless I went too lean by leaving in only one washer under the needle - I went down from three to one. I dunno nothin.

DIY carb tuning is usually a pain unless you have some diagnostic tools. No tools=running repetitive plug chops to see what effects the carb changes have on the color of the spark plug insulator. You could ask around to borrow a ColourTune device (essentially a spark plug w/a visible insulator so you can see the combustion color), or an exhaust gas analyzer.

[Krasniewski]

A breather for the valve cover came today. The neck was the right size, but the breather was overall too big. I bought two, so one went to the KLRE, now I have an extra one. I have a hose clamp and old foam filter over the hole for now.

Mirrors came in the mail, but a) they look terrible, and 2) one was broken. Go figure.

I did have an extra CRG Lane Splitter in the shed, so I threw that on - don't know why I waited to do that, but it looks awesome. Now I need to order another one (kinda expensive, now I remember why I didn't go this route originally).

Oh, and license plate is on now too. Went richer yet on the idle screw, just to see what happens.

[Krasniewski]

Base stickers today! Now I can finally ride the badass to work... that is, assuming I don't get shit over having only one mirror.

Lots of good attention in the parking lot today. Gotta say - it's been a long time since I've gotten a compliment on my bike (see KLRE thread).

Jetting isn't too bad. It's so hard to tell what's what on short rides b/c the motor takes a while to warm up and I'm still getting used to the bike.