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Old 03-21-2013, 06:46 PM   #166
jdiaz
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Woot! You've got a VR5 now.

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Old 03-21-2013, 06:50 PM   #167
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Hi Cole this sux man,
thats not good what you found and from this point swapping in new rod bearings will be a waste of time and cash.

I think you have to get into the block and clean it out good and find out where that small piece of metal came from that was clogging the tensioner.

Beyond that the engine needs to be cleaned from all of the metal that has been running through it ,
the lifters are toast as they are contaminated.
Simply cloth sanding the crank isnt going to cut it.
The crank throws are all filled with metal,
the oil cooler if it has one is filled with metal .

So this is a slippery slope on one hand you may need to find a new crank I have never been good with cutting them down ,
Though you may be able to get it polished and see if the journal is still in spec the throws will clog up with cutting material so that you need a bore brush to clean out all of the crud after polishing the crank.

OTOH

You may have to be looking for a used engine thats in good condition.

If you go the route your on now your only going to be throwing good money after bad, what may look like a huge expense may in fact be the least expensive way to go,
New engine time!

PM me your number and we can talk further
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:26 PM   #168
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Rebuilt Long blocks are about $6500
I haven't found a single Euronan VR6 24v parts van yet. Most the used 24vs I've found are in the $3500 range.

No way I'm spending that kind of money on the VR6 if I find a reasonably priced block I'll run it. Until then.

I'll put it together best I can and shop for the diesel swap parts.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #169
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what other cars have this engine? or is this engine exclusive to the Eurovan?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:55 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn View Post
I'll put it together best I can and shop for the diesel swap parts.
Save your cash. The whole engine is full of metal shavings, and you have to replace that con rod, meaning you're pulling off at least one head. If you try to just put bearings in it, the next time it spins one (and it will) it might put the rod through the side of the block, and if you're lucky it'll be as you back out of your driveway and not when you're trying to merge in front of a semi.

Anything you do from this point that does not involve complete engine removal, disassembly, machine shop work, and new/reconditioned parts is a complete waste of time and materials.

Last time I built a four it was $900. An eight was $1200. I would hope you could fully rebuild your six for under $3000, since you can do everything except the machine shop work.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:04 AM   #171
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Eek

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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
what other cars have this engine? or is this engine exclusive to the Eurovan?
This engine code is specific to the Eurovan. There are other versions of the engine out there that could be made to work, but it's still a bunch of swapping parts around. The Eurovan motor is tilted forward 30* where all the others are straight up and down. The cams are specific to the van for more low end, intake, oil pump, oil, pan, etc.

I've been searching literally worldwide for a replacement from any comparable version since this started with no luck. I could even use the 3.2l long block from a Cayenne or Touareg if I can find one.

Cheapest motor I've found so far is about $3500 shipped with 123k on it and out of a van that was hit in the FRONT

I may just have to get a "parts motor" and piece together good used stuff from both motors to make one good one. There is a Passat 12v motor for $500 in Denver. The crank should fit but that's the only usable part out of it for a 24v motor, maybe

Quote:
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Save your cash. The whole engine is full of metal shavings, and you have to replace that con rod, meaning you're pulling off at least one head.
The connecting rods surface is smooth. The van was only run for about a mile on the freeway with the knock. I pulled over as I heard it develope.

The engine is not "full of metal" as everyone is saying. Geesh! There was an EXTREMELY FINE dust of it in the oil, which came out with the oil. Most of it was in the pan. Enough to replace the missing bearing material. There are not a lot of secret hidden passages in here to hide metal chunks. Pretty easy to flush them out before reassembly. I've got it all open right now and can see through the passages.



Quote:
Originally Posted by troidus View Post

If you try to just put bearings in it, the next time it spins one (and it will) it might put the rod through the side of the block, and if you're lucky it'll be as you back out of your driveway and not when you're trying to merge in front of a semi.
Funny you mention semis, they run on re-bearinged motors all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Anything you do from this point that does not involve complete engine removal, disassembly, machine shop work, and new/reconditioned parts is a complete waste of time and materials.
Maybe. But it's $58 to try. Bottom line is that the parts are so hard to find for the diesel swap right now that this van HAS to go back together until I can find them or a replacement VR6.

I can't leave it just sitting in pieces in my garage for 6 months to track down the parts. So it must go back together so that it can be moved out. So I may as well try to fix it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Last time I built a four it was $900. An eight was $1200. I would hope you could fully rebuild your six for under $3000, since you can do everything except the machine shop work.
Yep, some motors are that way. Not this one. I've priced some of the parts. The rods alone were $1250, head gasket $250, cams $850 etc, etc. There is a reason a long block is $6500 and not the $1500 of a domestic V8

I've rebuilt engines before and if this could be done for under $1500-$2,000 I'd of had it done weeks ago

The lack of finding a cheap replacement or reasonable rebuild cost is what has me considering trying to just do just the bearings. which of course may or may not work. I fully realize the "ideal" way to do it is a complete rebuild or a nice new engine. Anything else is a gamble, including a replacement out of a wreck.
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Xtremjeepn screwed with this post 03-22-2013 at 04:11 AM
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:13 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by jdiaz View Post
Woot! You've got a VR5 now.




Now if only I could make it run that way.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:42 AM   #173
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I'm with polishing the crank and changing the bearings. You've got nothing to lose. My only concern is what may have caused the spun bearing, to begin with. Myabe, there was a piece of something in the passage that got chewed up by the spun bearing. I'm wondering if you blow compressed air through the furthest away oil passage, to dislodge any debris in the crank. Maybe, somehow plug the other passageways and just have #3 open and the one you're blowing into. IDK, just brainstorming. I don't know what an oil pump costs, but, I think I'd throw one in it. And, plan on bunch of early oil changes, with filter cutting during each one.

You've previously mentioned using engine flush. I've never been comfortable with dilluting engine oil with anything. I can remember being in class and the instructor putting Dexron in an engine, to help clean out sludge. My dumbass neighbor dumped in 2qts of flush, on top of an already full oil pan. He ran his van around a couple weeks, like that, before he told me what he was doing. When, I pulled the filter, it weighed ~4lbs. I was inside the top-end of the engine, a few months later. It was definitely clean. I use SeaFoam products and know they have an engine flush. I'm on the fence with this idea, but, just throwing my limited experience out there.
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:27 AM   #174
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Been following this thread. Had a type 2 camper for a while but sold it because I never used it that much; and it was a real dog on the highway.

Anyway, why not install a crank kit, assuming this is a 2.8 liter and that the spun rod journal is still round?

great thread!
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:56 AM   #175
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Been following this thread. Had a type 2 camper for a while but sold it because I never used it that much; and it was a real dog on the highway.

Anyway, why not install a crank kit, assuming this is a 2.8 liter and that the spun rod journal is still round?

great thread!
They only list a crank up to 99 which was the 12v motor. Mine is the 24v 02 motor.

My understanding from reading forums is that the early crank is forged and the later cast but either will work. But that is just going off what misc people on a few forums say. So I'm not ready to bank on it just yet.

Swapping the crank is an option, but at that point I have to remove the trans again, and dissassemble the head and front of the engine. May as well change the one rod at a minimum to be sure.

So if the crank kit is $200, head gasket $250, rod?, and a ton of labor. I may as well get some sort of upgrade for the work

Which starts to lead me down the path of a 1.9 tdi swap or a 2.4d converted to turbo swap. Which would also gain me the more reliable manual transmission I found a donor Jetta that might be a good deal at $1,800 and have a friend outside the country trying to find me a complete parts van to steal part from for me.

Then I would only have to do the labor once.


Still debating the whole thing.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:36 AM   #176
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a Ebay deal
not really sure if it fits but its low mileage



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen-V...fe3ca6&vxp=mtr
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:38 AM   #177
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1999 Volkswagen VW Eurovan - $5 (Denver, Winter Park)


What we have here is a 1999 Eurovan in decent shape. Clean interior with few little imperfections, exterior has some dings and dents too (see the picture).. Good: Super strong motor, smooth 4 speed automotic transmission in very good mechanical shape. Looking for 5000 obo. Email, call, txt me at 970. fivethree1 eight28 2. Thanks
  • Location: Denver, Winter Park
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:42 AM   #178
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
a Ebay deal
not really sure if it fits but its low mileage



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen-V...fe3ca6&vxp=mtr

Thanks. (Already in my watch list)

Using a new Eurovan oil pump, ($300), and the Eurovan cams, oil pan, intake etc this would work.

Trying to find a similar deal on a 3.2l version of the motor. It's exactly the same jast bigger bore and stroke. Figure by scaling the injectors and maf the computer would never know its there.

Probably gain 20-30hp which of course would help at this altitude. (I'd still be running below the stock seal level output for the 2.8l)
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:49 AM   #179
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Laugh

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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
1999 Volkswagen VW Eurovan - $5 (Denver, Winter Park)


What we have here is a 1999 Eurovan in decent shape. Clean interior with few little imperfections, exterior has some dings and dents too (see the picture).. Good: Super strong motor, smooth 4 speed automotic transmission in very good mechanical shape. Looking for 5000 obo. Email, call, txt me at 970. fivethree1 eight28 2. Thanks
  • Location: Denver, Winter Park
....not a Poptop! That was a ton of work! Not sure I want to do that again.


This one is more equal to mine.(except for the running part) The 24v motor started in 2001.

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Old 03-22-2013, 08:43 AM   #180
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Given the uncertain reliability if fixing this one on the cheap- why not roll it out the garage and save the pennies/invest time in finding a donor engine-especially since you seem to have some leads?


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