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Old 03-23-2013, 07:52 AM   #7876
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Older Vortex ECUs had either open air box or closed air box maps, not 5 of each.

Open airbox usually does not have the lid and has either a foam or pleated style filter. There is still a filter but much less restriction to air flow.

Closed airbox is the stocker. I run closed air box with foam filters. I kept closed airbox because I do a lot of wet off road riding so need the water protection.

Rally Raid open airbox filter setup:
http://www.ktmtwins.com/rally-raid-ktm-690-filter-kit
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:19 AM   #7877
Bill the Bong
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
What's an "open airbox"? Does it have a filter? My bike has the stock cover with inch holes drilled in the top and foam filters.

Anyway, this Vortex unit is for "Motard/Enduro-Open Airbox" with a raised rev limit to 8700rpm. It came set to X10 #1 which is a Power Map. I've tried one of the Traction/Endouro Maps and like the initial throttle but don't like the over-all power characteristics. Seems to run out of steam too soon. So I'll try various Power Maps and see how I like the ride. I'm looking for good spin the tire power with soft initial throttle.

Should I get one of those open airboxs? What do they look like? I'm not gonna go without an air filter.

Maybe I need to just send this to Mike Tolle and have it made right, but to be able to ride the bike that means re-installing the stock ECU and if I do that I have to mess with the Throttle Stop and Idle Speed Adjustment?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Older Vortex ECUs had either open air box or closed air box maps, not 5 of each.

Open airbox usually does not have the lid and has either a foam or pleated style filter. There is still a filter but much less restriction to air flow.

Closed airbox is the stocker. I run closed air box with foam filters. I kept closed airbox because I do a lot of wet off road riding so need the water protection.

Rally Raid open airbox filter setup:
http://www.ktmtwins.com/rally-raid-ktm-690-filter-kit
I would suggests trying map 0 (std OEM map) first before sending it away. Trim to 555. If it's still rich, then something else is wrong. If it works OK, but is lean (as its meant to do with the standard map and holes in the cover), just trim to 666 or 777 and ride it for a while. I would personally duct tape over the holes for this test.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:22 AM   #7878
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
...re-installing the stock ECU and if I do that I have to mess with the Throttle Stop and Idle Speed Adjustment?
It will idle slightly high with the throttle stop correctly set for the Vortex when the OEM stuff is back in. This might actually cure the stalling that people are complaining about..
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:54 AM   #7879
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OK...good info from all. I'll try the 0-555 and see how it goes. Can't believe I didn't think of that.
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:56 PM   #7880
rdkyote
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter;20963695 Please pardon the very messy state of my bikeshop, I've got issues with two other bikes and I haven't been very good about keeping the place in it's usual state of (reasonable) cleanliness.

[IMG
http://shiloh115.smugmug.com/Other/KTM-690/i-S2kQJvR/0/M/P1010040-M.jpg[/IMG]

lmao yeah... forgiven.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:18 PM   #7881
JustBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
It will idle slightly high with the throttle stop correctly set for the Vortex when the OEM stuff is back in. This might actually cure the stalling that people are complaining about..
Mine doesn't stall, so at least I don't have that to deal with. Anyway, I tried some various settings. Here's a summary.
23Mar13. Tried several MAPS today.
6-222. PowerMap2. Too snappy/abrupt. This one gets a D+
2-222. Traction/Enduro Map1. Less power, smooth delivery, runs out of power at RPM, good down low. 28miles/.93gal=30mpg. C-
4-222. TorqueMap1. Good power, soft throttle. 25mi/0.75g=33mpg. B
0-555. Standard R Enduro Map. OK power, slightly abrupt throttle. 25mi/.70g=35.7mpg. C+
I can smell the rich exhaust in my clothes after the above miles. Need to try 4-111 or even 4-112 where 2 is for Hi or Carby Main Jet.
Wish I had access to a sniffer to see how lean/rich I'm getting. But the poor mileage and the smell tell me I'm still rich.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:33 PM   #7882
ramjet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
You’re quite possibly the first person to have had a piece of crafted metalwork imported into Switzerland from Arizona ...
That would be so much sweeter if it were titanium.
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:11 AM   #7883
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Mine doesn't stall, so at least I don't have that to deal with. Anyway, I tried some various settings. Here's a summary.
23Mar13. Tried several MAPS today.
6-222. PowerMap2. Too snappy/abrupt. This one gets a D+
2-222. Traction/Enduro Map1. Less power, smooth delivery, runs out of power at RPM, good down low. 28miles/.93gal=30mpg. C-
4-222. TorqueMap1. Good power, soft throttle. 25mi/0.75g=33mpg. B
0-555. Standard R Enduro Map. OK power, slightly abrupt throttle. 25mi/.70g=35.7mpg. C+
I can smell the rich exhaust in my clothes after the above miles. Need to try 4-111 or even 4-112 where 2 is for Hi or Carby Main Jet.
Wish I had access to a sniffer to see how lean/rich I'm getting. But the poor mileage and the smell tell me I'm still rich.
I'm guessing that you are overfueling. The Vortex disables the lambda sensor. So either the fuel pressure regulator or injector could be to blame. Maybe the previous owner tried to clean the injector like you would clean a jet. Before you mess with anything else replace the spark plug and check the coil connections to ensure that you are getting optimum spark.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:52 AM   #7884
Bumpaman
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Clutch safety switch question

Hi all. A friend of mine has a 2008 690E and on a ride in Utah last year the bike developed an intermittent problem where after the engine had been shut off it would not start again. We figured it was probably one of the safety switches, either kickstand or clutch. We started at the clutch safety switch and after pulling it apart and cleaning it the bike started right up. Problem solved..maybe not. The bike did this again during the ride and we employed the same fix with good enough results to finish the ride. When my friend got home he had another similiar incident so his mechanic cut the safety switch and jumpered it to remove it from the system and as we know from other posts, this misguided shortcut caused other problems. On the advice of the inmates here, the old switch was spliced back in and the bike is running fine. My friend is certain that Murphy's Law is going to strike again and leave him stranded out in the pickertoolies. With my keen sense of the obvious, I suggested a replacement of the old clutch safety switch with a new one, but I would like to solicit advice from the experience of everyone here if this would be the right fix? The previous owner has told him that the kickstand safety had been removed and replaced with the KTM kit. Is there something else that he should be looking at here also? Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:21 AM   #7885
allroadrider
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Safari Fuel Tank

Anybody put one of these on lately and have the printed instructions
I purchased one of these from an inmate and he didn't have the instructions, I have looked at the various post's but would like to have a copy of the instructions if any one happens to have one laying around and could scan them or fax them to me
Thanks
ARR
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:28 AM   #7886
ramjet
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KTM 690 Auxillary fuel tank-suggestions please

I like the concept here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6004
Can someone tell me how it connects/drains to the rear main?
And where to get the fittings for the replacement air filter?
Any other thoughts?
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:58 AM   #7887
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allroadrider View Post
Anybody put one of these on lately and have the printed instructions
I purchased one of these from an inmate and he didn't have the instructions, I have looked at the various post's but would like to have a copy of the instructions if any one happens to have one laying around and could scan them or fax them to me
Thanks
ARR
Here's the online set.

http://safaritanksusa.com/downloads/...structions.pdf

Print what you need.

Here's some helpful pics from another rider.

http://picasaweb.google.com/dpeward/...44625479545170
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:28 AM   #7888
Noyah
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Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Oddometer: 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramjet View Post
I like the concept here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6004
Can someone tell me how it connects/drains to the rear main?
And where to get the fittings for the replacement air filter?
Any other thoughts?
No pumps, it will empty front Alutank first.
You see the fuelline in the last picture going back to the filler neck and connects there.

Airfilter is easy, the EVO2 filter won't work tho, I use an uni filter.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:30 PM   #7889
Seth S
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Location: sanity?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allroadrider View Post
Anybody put one of these on lately and have the printed instructions
I purchased one of these from an inmate and he didn't have the instructions, I have looked at the various post's but would like to have a copy of the instructions if any one happens to have one laying around and could scan them or fax them to me
Thanks
ARR

Be sure not to open the safari tank until you have ridden about 60 miles on the main tank otherwise the main tank will overflow
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:03 PM   #7890
allroadrider
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Safari Tank

Thanks
This is what I needed another example of what a great site this is
ARR
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