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Old 03-21-2013, 11:50 AM   #991
newcastleadam
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You're 10 bolts away from pulling the cams, can check them and their journals for wear.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:22 PM   #992
8gv
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:19 PM   #993
max384
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Okay, so what I've done so far:
-adjusted valve clearances
----dropped feeler gauge into engine (on the very last valve after verifying they were all in spec!)
----removed generator cover
----...
-changed oil (well still haven't added new oil yet obviously
-flushed and refilled coolant
-installed new chain and sprockets
-cleaned and oiled air filter
-removed carburetor and have started cleaning it

What I still need to do:
-remove flywheel to get feeler gauge (I am going to borrow a flywheel puller from a friend to remove it later today or tomorrow)
-replace battery
-front fork seals and oil
-replace rear chain guard
-replace tail light lens
-install rear turn signals
-install new front brake line (stock one has a small leak)



Now for the questions!

I am replacing the larger jets put in by the PO and want to put it back to stock more or less because I hate carbs and I hate playing with them to get everything right. I've replaced the main and pilot jets back to stock. What is the recommended fuel/air mixture screw setting? I screwed it all the way in and backed out two turns. The bike has a slip-on exhaust if that matters.

My second question is in regards to part number 16017-1265 (jet-needle), the one with the red arrow pointing towards it on the diagram:



The part in question doesn't look like the parts diagram piece. Here's a picture of what I pulled off of the carb:



I'm not entirely sure whether this is a non-stock part, or whether the diagram has it drawn slightly incorrectly (which I've found is not all that uncommon). What do you guys say?


I'm replacing the rear turn signals with some LED ones I have laying around. Will these work with the stock flasher relay? Or will I need to add resistors and/or a new relay? If it won't work, does anyone make a plug and play electronic relay for this bike? Or does anyone know the correct size resistors to add?
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max384 screwed with this post 03-23-2013 at 12:37 PM
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:46 PM   #994
8gv
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Can you reach down into the engine with a grabber to get the feeler gauge?

I took my flywheel off last year and it was pretty easy to do. After removing the bolt that holds it on. I found an appropriately sized metric bolt (actually the rear axle bolt of my friend's KLX250) and screwed it into the center of the flywheel. With the bike in 6th gear I turned the bolt until the flywheel popped off.

I understand the changes you are making. It may be too late for this but I would caution you to not change too many things at once. After setting the valves it would be good to know what if anything has changed in the way it runs.

If the tight valves have allowed the head to be damaged, you may want to hold off on farkling the bike.

Good luck!
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:56 PM   #995
rube
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looks right

The silver part in your photo appears to be 16017 (called the jet needle on the parts diagram I am looking at) and the brass part to the left is 13091 (holder, needle jet) and 92063 (jet main).

On most carbs that I have cleaned the 16017 part has not come out of the carb easily/if at all. On my KLR250 it did come out and looked just like in your photo. As I recall it is directional with a bevel on one end that seems to let the needle slide in more easily when the carb slide returns to the down positioni. You can see the tip of 16017 in the throat of the carb when it is seated all the way.

I would recommend not going with stock jetting but understand your frustration with spending the time trying to get the jetting right. From what I read (and found on my one klr250) the stock jetting is pretty lean. With an aftermarket pipe I would think the lean condition would be exagerated on your bike. It should get great milage with the stock jetting though - so there is a benefit!

I have a 125 main and 38 pilot factory Kiehin jets in my stock carb. The bike runs well with a slightly modified stock exhaust and no airbox snorkle.

Be sure to clean out all the jets you cannot replace. On my carb it took many tries at spraying and soaking and finally I had to use a small MIG welder tip cleaning wire to clean out the non-removable main air jet and starter jet to get the bike to start easily and idle well.

Good luck.

rube
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Old 03-23-2013, 01:32 PM   #996
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Can you reach down into the engine with a grabber to get the feeler gauge?

I took my flywheel off last year and it was pretty easy to do. After removing the bolt that holds it on. I found an appropriately sized metric bolt (actually the rear axle bolt of my friend's KLX250) and screwed it into the center of the flywheel. With the bike in 6th gear I turned the bolt until the flywheel popped off.

I understand the changes you are making. It may be too late for this but I would caution you to not change too many things at once. After setting the valves it would be good to know what if anything has changed in the way it runs.

If the tight valves have allowed the head to be damaged, you may want to hold off on farkling the bike.

Good luck!
I tried telescoping magnets and grabbers and unfortunately the only way I can figure to get it is to pull the flywheel off. I tore the generator cover gasket and I need a new plastic bolt piece for the carb (where the choke cable attaches to the carb), so pulling the flywheel isn't a big deal or a time sink since I'll be waiting for parts anyhow.

It is too late, and I had considered that myself (but too late also)... I really should have done one thing at a time. But I guess I'll just have to hope for the best now.

So far I've spent about $200ish on various replacement parts. Hopefully no serious damage has been done to the head with the tight valves. If it has, I'm not too deep into the bike though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rube View Post
The silver part in your photo appears to be 16017 (called the jet needle on the parts diagram I am looking at) and the brass part to the left is 13091 (holder, needle jet) and 92063 (jet main).

On most carbs that I have cleaned the 16017 part has not come out of the carb easily/if at all. On my KLR250 it did come out and looked just like in your photo. As I recall it is directional with a bevel on one end that seems to let the needle slide in more easily when the carb slide returns to the down positioni. You can see the tip of 16017 in the throat of the carb when it is seated all the way.

I would recommend not going with stock jetting but understand your frustration with spending the time trying to get the jetting right. From what I read (and found on my one klr250) the stock jetting is pretty lean. With an aftermarket pipe I would think the lean condition would be exagerated on your bike. It should get great milage with the stock jetting though - so there is a benefit!

I have a 125 main and 38 pilot factory Kiehin jets in my stock carb. The bike runs well with a slightly modified stock exhaust and no airbox snorkle.

Be sure to clean out all the jets you cannot replace. On my carb it took many tries at spraying and soaking and finally I had to use a small MIG welder tip cleaning wire to clean out the non-removable main air jet and starter jet to get the bike to start easily and idle well.

Good luck.

rube
Thanks Rube. Good to hear that piece is the one I had hoped it was. I hadn't actually noticed the bevel before. Thanks!

I also have the stock exhaust that I may throw on if it's running lean... Or maybe I'll have a change of heart and play with the jetting once I get it running. I have the 118 (that I just put back in), 125, and 130 mains and another pilot, I think 40.

I was pretty thorough with cleaning the carb up. I'm pretty hopeful I won't have any follow-up work to do with that (well, other than maybe adjusting the mixture screw).

Do you think two turns back on the mixture screw is a good start point?
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:52 PM   #997
bigfishs
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Its unlikely any leds will flash properly without resistors. I put resistors in front and back but should have just done the flasher unit that goes under the tank. There is a thread here somewhere that talks about it. You can fit resistors in under the front light fairing and under the tool kit in the rear if you decide to go that route.

On a separate note, I love this forum. You guys are so freaking nice and helpful.
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:29 PM   #998
DrMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfishs View Post
Its unlikely any leds will flash properly without resistors. I put resistors in front and back but should have just done the flasher unit that goes under the tank. There is a thread here somewhere that talks about it. You can fit resistors in under the front light fairing and under the tool kit in the rear if you decide to go that route.

On a separate note, I love this forum. You guys are so freaking nice and helpful.
I replaced every bulb except headlight on my bike with LED. I used an electronic flasher; way easier than messing with resistors, and with resistors you'll just waste power as (a small amount) of heat. I wanted that electricity for heated grips.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:43 PM   #999
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post
I tried telescoping magnets and grabbers and unfortunately the only way I can figure to get it is to pull the flywheel off. I tore the generator cover gasket and I need a new plastic bolt piece for the carb (where the choke cable attaches to the carb), so pulling the flywheel isn't a big deal or a time sink since I'll be waiting for parts anyhow.
I believe the plastic 90* choke cable fitting was the source of my starting problems. I cleaned the carb, reamed out everything, drilled out what I could and finally bought a WHOLE NEW CARB! After all this time and money I became aware that a broken choke cable fitting can keep the bike from starting. The air travels through the crack rather than raising the diaphragm to enrichen the mixture.

I suppose I could install the old broken one on the new carb and try it out but I really don't want to know.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:18 PM   #1000
max384
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Thanks guys for all the help. I have a big exam on Friday, plus I have to wait for parts, so I won't get back to work on the bike for another week... But be prepared for more questions in a week!


Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfishs View Post
Its unlikely any leds will flash properly without resistors. I put resistors in front and back but should have just done the flasher unit that goes under the tank. There is a thread here somewhere that talks about it. You can fit resistors in under the front light fairing and under the tool kit in the rear if you decide to go that route.

On a separate note, I love this forum. You guys are so freaking nice and helpful.
I'd rather go the electronic flasher relay route, but I don't mind using the extra power with resistors, since blinkers are on for such a small amount of time.

This is a great forum for sure!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrMoto View Post
I replaced every bulb except headlight on my bike with LED. I used an electronic flasher; way easier than messing with resistors, and with resistors you'll just waste power as (a small amount) of heat. I wanted that electricity for heated grips.
Which electronic flasher did you use? Was it a plug and play? Or one of the auto parts store specials that you need to solder in place? Either is fine, but I'd prefer a plug and play if they're out there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I believe the plastic 90* choke cable fitting was the source of my starting problems. I cleaned the carb, reamed out everything, drilled out what I could and finally bought a WHOLE NEW CARB! After all this time and money I became aware that a broken choke cable fitting can keep the bike from starting. The air travels through the crack rather than raising the diaphragm to enrichen the mixture.

I suppose I could install the old broken one on the new carb and try it out but I really don't want to know.
The 90* fitting wasn't broken. It was the plastic piece that attaches the 90* fitting to the carb that was cracked... But I wonder if the same symptoms would ensue for either one?
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:33 AM   #1001
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post

The 90* fitting wasn't broken. It was the plastic piece that attaches the 90* fitting to the carb that was cracked... But I wonder if the same symptoms would ensue for either one?
I should have been more clear. As it is on yours, mine was cracked not on the 90 but the goober that holds it on.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:09 AM   #1002
doogiepooch
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Anybody know this guy? This was taken in July in Montana, just occured to me to toss it up in the KLR250 area. We were 2 western US newbs that didn't know gas could be 100 miles apart in Montana. This guy saved our bacon and kept us from walking. Said he was from Michigan and was riding out to spend a month with a buddy in Montana. Super intersting guy indeed. That pack at his back tire he was wearing on his back while riding and it was 40+ pounds. Said his son had bought the KLR and said it was to slow so he'd ended up with it. You could spend 30 minutes just looking at all the simple solutions he'd adapted to this bike from household items. I think we both gave him around $20 each for a gallon of gas, because we were so tickled to see him. A gallon in my cousins Versys and one in my 650 KLR. In our defense there were signs advertising gas when we needed it but we got off the exit and the station was closed down for good. At that point the next fuel was like 50 miles away and we were on fumes.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:10 AM   #1003
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
The air travels through the crack rather than raising the diaphragm to enrichen the mixture.
"Not exactly," 8gv!

The "choke" (starting enricher) has nothing to do with the diaphragm; rather, when ON, the enricher plunger is withdrawn from its orifice in the carb body, permitting fuel to flow; simultaneously, a proximate air passage is opened. Acting as a "mini-carburetor," the consequent fuel-rich mixture is admitted directly into the carburetor venturi, without involving the diaphragm at all.

A metal "choke" cable cap is available from Stead Engineering. A good primer on a carb very similar to your CVK34 can be found here:

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:12 AM   #1004
DrMoto
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My electronic flasher was plug-n-play. I can't find the part number but I got it and bulbs from superbrightleds.com. Worked out well.
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:35 PM   #1005
Brash1
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I'm ready to torch this thing

I know this subject has been beat like the proverbial "dead horse". Beat it like a dead horse, maybe that's the answer:)
Seriously, I'm at my wits end with my latest purchase(1994 klr250. 1000 miles on odometer) It had to be started with a shot of ether when I bought it. I figured, no problem, just a simple carb clean and done. I own a 88 klr, that I rehabbed, so I know a little about the bike.
Got her home and pulled and cleaned carb. Found that it had obviously sat still for a long time in its life( bowl gasket really dry and brittle) replaced that.
After back together, still won't crank. Unless you shoot a little throttle body cleaner into airbox. Cranks and idles great if that's done. Like 2 kicks!
I have done everything I can find on advrider to fix it.
Adjusted valves
Cleaned carb again
Changed plug
Still nothing!
I know some jackwagon has been into this carb before me because of the boogered screw heads and the aftermarket choke. The have replaced the stock choke assembly with the kind that screws right into the carb with a pull knob. It seems like it does what it's supposed to( blocks or opens the orifice under the diaphragm).
Am I missing something?
Is it time to roll it outside and burn it?
Did I mention I'm frustrated?
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