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Old 03-24-2013, 07:40 AM   #16
lawe
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Yes, you can release the plug.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:40 AM   #17
JRWooden
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Yes, you can release the plug.


Thanks!
Will be hitting the local BMW (auto) dealer this week!
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:05 AM   #18
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I never thought of making one for my 800.
However, I did, on a trip to Mexico, start thinking that I should learn how to make one for my 1200, as a lot of people said it would fail.
It did. Just moments after I was thinking about it.
The Twin FPC's don't fail nearly as much as the 1200's do and that's because of location. I posted it here somewhere. The FPC on the twins is under the seat and fairly protected. The 1200's are on top of the tank to the left of the ignition switch and well exposed to the elements. The cavity fills with water and crap which eventually gets past the o-ring on the FPC and fills the void under it causing shorting and failure. And the old silver FPC's were crap.

A lot of the older Twins have the silver controller (like mine) so as preventative maintenance, I check for water in that housing area and dry things off after a wash (meaning rain, it's a GS). Since most of the late model BMW's use the same controller, you might be able to troubleshoot by borrowing one from a sympathetic K, R, or F street bike owner.

Or build yourself a cable.
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:41 AM   #19
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61-13-8-352-330 Blue plastic housing. Qty 1
61-13-0-007-571 Snap in receptical with wire. Qty 2

Anyone know of a site these can be purchased from online? I have tried several BMW auto parts sites but can't find anything when I enter these part numbers.
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:35 AM   #20
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OK I found a site in the US, pelicanparts.com, but their shipping cost to Canada is outrageous. Guess I will phone the closest BMW Auto dealership, 4.5 hours away, and see if they have the parts.
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:56 AM   #21
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Please note that you can't power the pump from the stock outlet since it will shut down due to (I guess) the high power consumption from the
Anyone have a spec as to what these things draw while running in bypass mode?
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:18 AM   #22
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Anyone have a spec as to what these things draw while running in bypass mode?
Burns says they draw more amps than the powerlet can handle. They also will sell you a heavier duty sae type pigtail. The problem with their set up is that you have to disconnect the power to the cables manually or the pump will keep running when you stop. The roll your own bypass and the plug and play are both switched off when the ignition is switched off.

I know from experience that the plug and play roll your own bypass and the splice method both work fine with the OEM cable size. There will be stalling with the splice method, but it will get you home no matter how far. There has been at least one case of an F8 rider just doing the splice and not bothering to replace the fuel pump controller.

For what it is worth, I have yet to see a black powdercoated FPC unit fail.
They have all been the silver metal colored ones and they have all been loaded with corrosion inside no matter how fastidious or anal the owner was with their maintenance. Applies to F and the big GS 1200 models. BMW never admitted to the problem, it would have been too expensive for them, like the ring antennae problems.
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:21 AM   #23
lawe
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Anyone have a spec as to what these things draw while running in bypass mode?
You cannot connect it to the stock accessory outlet. I draw to much for that and the canbus will disconnect the power. You will need a separate outlet connected to the battery (and a fuse)
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:25 AM   #24
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You cannot connect it to the stock accessory outlet. I draw to much for that and the canbus will disconnect the power. You will need a separate outlet connected to the battery (and a fuse)
10 amp fuse.
Burns say it draws 7 amps.
The splice method or the plug and play work fine without a fuse, they are connected to the wiring harness on the bike.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:05 AM   #25
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I just wanted to add my 2 cents worth here. I had what appears to be a pump controller failure on my 2011 F800GS a couple of weeks ago. I say "appears to be" because it was an intermittent power loss or stalling problem and the dealer put in a new controller and so far it's working fine, but only about 300 miles since that replacement. I used the GS-911 to determine that it was a "fuel pump control circuit failure" or something very similar to that wording is how it read out. According to the GS-911 guys they don't recommend using a bypass cable on the F series bikes since they have no fuel return line to the tank. I'd guess that they are worried that the pump running all the time could over pressurize the system. They recommend carrying a spare controller for the F bikes.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:53 AM   #26
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It isnt rocket science.
Learn the work around splice method or make a roll your own plug and play bypass and both of those are operating only when ignition is on.
A bypass cable that is unswitched requires you to remember to unplug.
You can carry a hundred dollar spare part you might not need, you can throw $50 bucks away and get a pre-made set, or you can learn how to do it for free or gut a burned out FPC and build a switched bypass for about a nickel and 15 minutes.
If you want to carry a complete spare controller, carry a size 10 torx or a good set of needlenose pliers like on a Leatherman.
No sense in overcomplicating things nor wasting money.
And they usually fail completely and without warning.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:00 PM   #27
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Yeah what he said!

Or you can do like me and buy a COMPLETE 2012 tank assy with pump and black controller off Ebay for $200 shipped. So now I'm covered if my tank cracks, pump or FPC fails. Also bought the complete wiring harness for the mice to chew on. Again.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:43 PM   #28
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Yeah what he said!

Or you can do like me and buy a COMPLETE 2012 tank assy with pump and black controller off Ebay for $200 shipped. So now I'm covered if my tank cracks, pump or FPC fails. Also bought the complete wiring harness for the mice to chew on. Again.
That is the deal of the century
But why did you stop there and not score an alternator and reg, too?
Helluva deal you got!
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:05 PM   #29
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That is the deal of the century
But why did you stop there and not score an alternator and reg, too?
Helluva deal you got!

The RR's are there for $75 but whatever. What I really want is a blown engine with a good clutch and the new alternator. Probably get a good price but shipping is another story.

Anyway, if you're planning a trip keep your eyes open for these deals. You could pre-box the spares for shipping then call home to have them sent out overnight should disaster strike.

It's all in the planning.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:24 AM   #30
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Cheaper, and easier to just keep a spare KLR along when you go on long ventures in the bush.
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