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Old 03-23-2013, 02:05 PM   #15166
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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On another subject:

would this tank fit a 350? I know it is advertised for a 650 but I am no aware of any major frame and mounting differences.

http://www.kientech.com/DR650IMSfueltank.htm
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:23 PM   #15167
Stretch67
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Call Jesse and ask. He's the DR guru.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:22 PM   #15168
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
Call Jesse and ask. He's the DR guru.
then let us know. I think it does not fit with our seat.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:32 PM   #15169
redleger
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then let us know. I think it does not fit with our seat.
No it's does not :( I really wanna change the look but I really don't want to paint or dye.

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Old 03-23-2013, 07:31 PM   #15170
jmderyke
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Pulse and trigger output voltage

Im looking for the stator pulse and trigger coil output voltage specs anyone have em? the clymer manual doesnt specify a/c voltage just resistance. I have the 91 dr350 with the single pickup coil.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:10 AM   #15171
Anonawesome
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Location: Central OH
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Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Cheers Travis
I had thought it could be a valve problem but not having a real mechanical mind i didn't fancy doing it !!!!
Looks like i'mgoing to have to though
Phil
Mine is currently doing the exact same thing since I've just put a pumper on. The backfiring is more likely to be caused by running rich (would explain bogging with throttle which also is happening with mine) or your ignition timing being off. I just did a top end rebuild so I'm sure by valves are dead on. I always like to check my ignition timing before messing with jetting. Although it's never a bad idea to check your valves.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:51 AM   #15172
PHILinFRANCE
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Cheers for the reply Anonawesome

Vales and timing are next on the list , thought i'd sussed it yesterday !!! took the carb apart AGAIN ,popped out the diaphram and needle and found the small circlip NOT FIXED to the needle

Put it all back together hoping things would be ok !!! they were better but still not right

Quick question .............can the timing JUST SLIP ???????

Cheers all Phil
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:46 AM   #15173
dbarale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Quick question .............can the timing JUST SLIP ???????

Cheers all Phil
Unlikely. Altough the timing chain sliders can break or the tensioner can run out of adjustment...

But if it was running fine before sitting it's most likely carb related. Is the petcock flowing freely? Also check the air filter and the fuel filter above the needle valve seat.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:25 AM   #15174
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Cheers for the reply Anonawesome

Vales and timing are next on the list , thought i'd sussed it yesterday !!! took the carb apart AGAIN ,popped out the diaphram and needle and found the small circlip NOT FIXED to the needle

Put it all back together hoping things would be ok !!! they were better but still not right

Quick question .............can the timing JUST SLIP ???????

Cheers all Phil
Ignition timing is not adjustable. Valve/cam timing is and can "slip" if the cam chain is too loose. It would have to be pretty much worn out for that to happen though. I suspect you have a mixture problem. It also possible that your coil or spark wire is breaking down or arcing although in my experience that usually occurs under high load as opposed to high revs.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:41 AM   #15175
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
Yeah its definitely lean at idle, the plug is grey not the coco brown im looking for, it will idle with the choke off
You absolutely CAN NOT tell the state of your idle mixture by reading a plug.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:50 AM   #15176
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
Im looking for the stator pulse and trigger coil output voltage specs anyone have em? the clymer manual doesnt specify a/c voltage just resistance. I have the 91 dr350 with the single pickup coil.
I think the reason that they only give resistance is that it is easier to measure and most of the time is a reliable indicator.

I have a 95SE which is quite different, but most CDI's operate at similar voltages.

The "power suppy" coil on the stator on mine runs about 75-80 volts AC (rms) with the bike running. I have actually tested the CDI using 110VAC from an outlet. It works fine.

The output of the trigger coil is a little trickier, but I hooked up an ANALOG voltmeter on the 3 volt DC range and waved a magnet by the coil. I got blips of less that a volt. This will depend on the response time of your voltmeter, but it is an indicator of sorts.

Using a digital meter (Fluke 77) for this test didn't give useful results.
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cwc screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 04:18 AM
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:36 AM   #15177
MrPulldown
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Does anyone have a decomp cable and lever they are willing to part with. Too difficult to operate the the decomp with a screw driver and a pair of pliers.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:13 PM   #15178
daverbmxer
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I have a FMF muffler that is rattling because the rivets at the tail end are loose. Is it as simple as drilling out the old ones and riveting in new ones? Are long or short rivets better? Any danger of the end bit falling inside the muffler and working its way back into the engine?

Edit: Thought I'd add a picture.. did a little bit of snow riding yesterday!


daverbmxer screwed with this post 03-24-2013 at 01:23 PM
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:31 PM   #15179
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwc View Post
I think the reason that they only give resistance is that it is easier to measure and most of the time is a reliable indicator.

I have a 95SE which is quite different, but most CDI's operate at similar voltages.

The "power suppy" coil on the stator on mine runs about 75-80 volts AC (rms) with the bike running. I have actually tested the CDI using 110VAC from an outlet. It works fine.

The output of the trigger coil is a little trickier, but I hooked up an ANALOG voltmeter on the 3 volt DC range and waved a magnet by the coil. I got blips of less that a volt. This will depend on the response time of your voltmeter, but it is and indicator of sorts.

Using a digital meter (Fluke 77) for this test didn't give useful results.
Keep in mind that pre-94 models use a single ignition trigger. '94 and newer has two ignition trigger pickups. The CDI on later models will only fire if the two pulses are received in the correct order.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:45 PM   #15180
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a FMF muffler that is rattling because the rivets at the tail end are loose. Is it as simple as drilling out the old ones and riveting in new ones? Are long or short rivets better? Any danger of the end bit falling inside the muffler and working its way back into the engine?

Edit: Thought I'd add a picture.. did a little bit of snow riding yesterday!
Just drill them out and possibly pick the shrapnel out. Then just new rivets. What do you mean with long or short?

The stick part gets cut out when you pop in the rivet.
The lenght doesnt change, only diameter as far as I know.
Nothing should fall to the inside while installing the rivets.

Man snow is stupid without studded tires. Couple weeks ago I went to watch a few of my friends riding on ice (Gulf of Finland) with the sun shining and not too cold. Good day.. I was the only one without studs
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