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Old 03-23-2013, 07:49 PM   #75076
BenYork
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Tahoe/ Humboldt
Oddometer: 87
Trip on the DR

I think I can do this?

Owned a DR for 6 months, finally took it to Death Valley to play with. Very impressed. Inspired to do more of this sort of thing.

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Old 03-23-2013, 08:18 PM   #75077
zdiver1
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 470
FMF can.

I have the Power Bomb header and the FMF Q4 and the TM40 and am very happy with the sound and performance and if the FMF grenade's I might put the stock muffler back on.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:29 PM   #75078
YankeeCajun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
How about $35. for a set of rubber off my 2011 front and rear.
$35. includes shipping to lower 48.
Oh dag nabbit I just ordered a braided steel front line from Bike Bandit. Wish I would have waited for your offer. Sorry.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:43 PM   #75079
JagLite
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question Exhausting

I don't know anything about this company but the price is great.

http://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/gsx-r...roduct-66.html

$80 + shipping for a nice cf muffler.
Of course it won't bolt right on but maybe the supplied mid pipe could be modified to work...

Still have to be repacked regularly and all that hassle but if someone is thinking about an aftermarket unit it is worth considering.

I'm happy with my GSXR 750 muffler.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:07 PM   #75080
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Air in the line

Quote:
Originally Posted by YankeeCajun View Post
Oh dag nabbit I just ordered a braided steel front line from Bike Bandit. Wish I would have waited for your offer. Sorry.
When I installed the steel braided lines on my bike I had trouble getting the air out of the lines I went to Harbor fright and got a brake bleeder that hooked up to my air compresser for about $20. bucks and it sucked all the air out fast money well spent. Paul
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:02 AM   #75081
pzs
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Central Australia, desert dweller
Oddometer: 208
Thumpers to Split .. DR to be moved to back water?

I dont really understand, all I know is I log onto adv and learn about DR's, if this is going to be lost due to stuff I don't understand I will spend more time on DRRIDERS site, if DRRIDERS site grows that will keep me happy. I love ADV so I guess they will do what is nessesary, maybe it is time I payed a donation to ADV keep the DR thread and all other threads going, or maybe ADV loose all the non bike thread/forums...which I equally enjoy, but stay true to bike related info only, I can go anywhere and search for bulls#*t stuff, if doesn't need to be on a bike forum, loose it , I hate to say it..but if this is going to help keep the DR thread going, loose Jo MAMA,
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:30 AM   #75082
barko1
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
Oddometer: 3,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
When I installed the steel braided lines on my bike I had trouble getting the air out of the lines I went to Harbor fright and got a brake bleeder that hooked up to my air compresser for about $20. bucks and it sucked all the air out fast money well spent. Paul

I have a brake bleeder but never one that hooked to a compressor. Which is that? Sounds good, i could spill a lot more fluid with a compressor .
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:49 AM   #75083
Otis357
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Oakville
Oddometer: 432
Thanks for the great responses on my DR\exhaust question. I just placed an order with Jesse last week for some parts, and guess I will be calling him back to talk about the airbox mod and jetting kits too.

Im sure its in here somewhere, but how do you keep water and crap out of the airbox if you cut a giant hole in it?? We've been known to cross a few pretty deep water holes in our riding so I assume a small hole on the bottom to drain any water is a good idea too?

Really enjoy working on the bike, but carbs are one of those parts that have always mystified me. Not all that comfortable poking around in the more sensitive parts of the bike..... guess I better read up a little more before attempting this one.

Cheers...
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:04 AM   #75084
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis357 View Post
Thanks for the great responses on my DR\exhaust question. I just placed an order with Jesse last week for some parts, and guess I will be calling him back to talk about the airbox mod and jetting kits too.

Im sure its in here somewhere, but how do you keep water and crap out of the airbox if you cut a giant hole in it?? We've been known to cross a few pretty deep water holes in our riding so I assume a small hole on the bottom to drain any water is a good idea too?

Really enjoy working on the bike, but carbs are one of those parts that have always mystified me. Not all that comfortable poking around in the more sensitive parts of the bike..... guess I better read up a little more before attempting this one.

Cheers...
I run with the side off of mine, instead of having cut the top ... deep water can stall it.

I don't know about the cut-tops, but on mine the best I could do was to tip the bike to the left a little after stalling it and being a hair above the airbox's bottom in the water.

I think that if true deep-water crossing are in your future, not only should you consider leaving the airbox the way it is, but you may also think about a way to create a higher snorkel, and to use some water-resistant electrical goop to protect wire connections.

The thing about a DR650, IMHO, is that it's a heavy off-road bike, so I was finding myself in deep water - with drop-offs - and if the bike had stalled at its deepest I would have had to leave the bike submerged and out there since I didn't have any riders with me who could help recover it if lost.

It just isn't a lightweight enough bike for me to consider such water crossings again without being with other riders, and even then I'd probably choose a lighter dual sport if that were our focus.

Example of the trip I am referring to: This one got hairy and did stall the bike, but was far from the deepest I took the bike. The deepest was really only about 10 feet across, but it dropped off like a MF'er. In any of the four major water crossings I did I was wishing I had left the airbox stock.

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Old 03-24-2013, 08:18 AM   #75085
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Thumb bleeder

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
I have a brake bleeder but never one that hooked to a compressor. Which is that? Sounds good, i could spill a lot more fluid with a compressor .
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:21 AM   #75086
DockingPilot
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Location: Andover, N.J.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yes granted. Anything is an improvement on the stock choke setup and getting damaged wasn't a consideration or concern for me when changing it. I was talking about the stock choke cable setup being dodgy because the cable goes tight and slack when you turn the handlebars. I was kind of wishing that I had purchased the case mounted one once I had fitted the direct to carby one and especially when I realised how fiddly it is to operate. Luckily I live in a warm climate and only have to use the choke first up in the mornings only and not leave on for long. Bike is warm enough to ride once I have my riding gear on and I am ready to mount the bike, so I can switch it off before I ride.
I had the carb mounted one. As stated earlier its somewhat a pia to reach. I tossed it and got the PC case mounted one and never looked back.


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Old 03-24-2013, 10:38 AM   #75087
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I had the carb mounted one. As stated earlier its somewhat a pia to reach. I tossed it and got the PC case mounted one and never looked back.


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I have the case mounted one, which I liked, but now it doesn't want to stay out when I'm warming the bike. Is there something I need to adjust? Thanks
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:08 AM   #75088
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 678
I installed the case mounted one a few months ago and it never would stay out, had to hold it out with my hand until bike warmed up, ready a problem. Have not contacted Procycle about this problem but the previous one I bought from them stayed activated until pushed in. Not holding its self in out position is a PITA.

TraveGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
I have the case mounted one, which I liked, but now it doesn't want to stay out when I'm warming the bike. Is there something I need to adjust? Thanks
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:19 AM   #75089
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis357 View Post
Really enjoy working on the bike, but carbs are one of those parts that have always mystified me. Not all that comfortable poking around in the more sensitive parts of the bike..... guess I better read up a little more before attempting this one.

Cheers...
All you'll ever need to know about your carb.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=bst40
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:43 AM   #75090
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis357 View Post
I'm sure its in here somewhere, but how do you keep water and crap out of the airbox if you cut a giant hole in it?? We've been known to cross a few pretty deep water holes in our riding so I assume a small hole on the bottom to drain any water is a good idea too?
How deep is deep?
The hole is on the top so only about 3mm lower than with the snorkel.

There is already a drain tube on the airbox.
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