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Old 03-23-2013, 03:13 PM   #151
Ted farkas
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Hi lenz,

Google rexs speed shop - they have 12v conversion kits for 70 quid for an xt 250. I have emailed hime twice with quires but have had no reply.

I had my tt upgraded to a 22 litre tank in 1993 at tt outrider in st peters which is no longer there. They sold conversion kits for tts including 12 v conversion, oil cooler panniers big tanks the whole deal. Jeeze they would be handy now i have money.

But by chance i spotteda post referring to the owner so i have pm'd him about how they did the 12 v conversion.

They used to sell these kitted up as adventure bikes - good guys. Bumped into the guy who bolted my tank on at a road house in alice springs when i roder her acroos australia in 93'.

Regards
Brett
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:00 PM   #152
NordieBoy
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I'd like small oil cooler and really want a bigger tank...

Was up in the hills yesterday with MT43's on the TT and 15/52 gearing (DR750 front sprockets, 14-15t, fit perfectly and have a 10mm thick spline) and it went well enough for normal adventuring but not for more extreme slow speed stuff. Cough stalled a few times at low revs which didn't sound nice at all and then swapped to a 14t sprocket and all was well in the world...
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:52 PM   #153
Ted farkas
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Mate,

mines a 22 litre acerbis - it really looks the biz too. as stated wish I did scrimp all those years ago and got the oil cooler and 12v conversion - he had other stuff as well.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:11 PM   #154
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by Ted farkas View Post
Mate,

mines a 22 litre acerbis - it really looks the biz too. as stated wish I did scrimp all those years ago and got the oil cooler and 12v conversion - he had other stuff as well.
Got any photos?
Want a look at the tank and mounts.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:52 AM   #155
Lenz1
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I had to buy a new std volume Clarke fuel tank out of the US due to major cracking appearing in the original tank once fuel was in it. I'm happy with that decision because I can supplement the std fuel volume with a roll - up - when empty fuel bladder from liquidcontainment.com.au on the Gold Coast Queensland and not have a big tank when it's not required.

Betta Bikes in Sth Aust have the 12V DC conversions sorted and another good source of motorcycle electricals is Gosford Motorcycle Wreckers in New South Wales.

I had a close look at the stator coils today. The return coil wire is bolted through the coil laminations (normal) and supposedly makes electrical gnd contact with the backing plate via either the securing bolt or direct contact between wire then coil laminations then stator backing plate. What I found when I unscrewed the bigarsed lighting coil was electrical insulation material around the securing bolts, in the threads and between the coil and the backing plate. So how this lighting circuit was achieving full continuity is something of a mystery to me. Could explain a few things maybe ...

I'm not inclined to bin the existing lighting coil just yet, maybe the most cost effective solution is to buy one additional lighting coil, join it in parallel with the existing coil and run the increased AC output through a bridge rectifier/DC regulator and battery.

Just a heads up on the puller required to remove the rotor. Working from the central boss is the only way to avoid damage to the rotor as the outer holes are too weak for any kind of puller attachment. The thread on the central rotor boss is a LEFT HAND 27mm diameter 1.0mm pitch little darling. A steel wad of 17mm dia or slightly less is needed for the central puller bolt to push on the outer end of the crankshaft. The puller I borrowed off a mate sheared the original central puller bolt (12mm dia x 1.75mm pitch and apparently made of the dreaded "shit metal") - replaced with a high tensile bolt and tore thread off the main body of the puller when I had less than the full threaded rotor boss fully engaged - yes FUCKING TIGHT - not looking for a repeat performance .... be advised

Lenz1 screwed with this post 03-24-2013 at 04:11 AM
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:01 AM   #156
Ted farkas
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Got any photos?
Want a look at the tank and mounts.
Will do
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:32 PM   #157
Ted farkas
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tt tank



They bolted 2 flat plates 2 tank and welded a square tube with an m12 nut in each end welded in where you bolt the tank to, the inner bit has been fleshed out with some rubber sponge. The tank sat full from Sydney to perth through all sorts of terrain and no cracks.

If you look you can just see old mount poking out from top right of plate.

Ted

Ted farkas screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 09:47 PM Reason: update
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:36 PM   #158
Ted farkas
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:08 AM   #159
Lenz1
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So the stator backing plate with all the generating coils attached is on it's way to Betta Bikes for at least one additional lighting coil, rectifier and DC regulator and I've been working through the LED lighting suppliers for suitable headlights.

The units I'm going to install are an evolution of current light bars with 4 x 10 watt CREE LEDS producing 900 lumens each LED. The units run reflectors that produce light dispersion patterns of "flood", "euro" and "spot". So it's 2 headlight units with the flood as the low beam and either euro or spot combined with flood as the high beam. These lights are a new product for Aussietoughlights - just search LED lighting. The plan is to run these headlights as an "under and over" setup with a shared mid-line mount.

Tomorrow the clutch will be pulled apart and massaged with the thicker 2.00mm steel plate going to the inside of the pack and all steels getting a touch of wet and dry 600 / 800 paper on a 20mm thick steel plate I had ground dead flat some years ago for cleaning up speedway bike clutch plates.

Steel plates are prone to warping when subjected to high load / heat. The steels in my clutch don't appear to have any ugly high spots but a light touch on the "grinding plate" tells the tale.

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Old 03-26-2013, 03:22 AM   #160
Ted farkas
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Whats the price and what are betta bikes going to do?
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:14 AM   #161
Lenz1
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Steve is the guy that runs the show at Betta Bikes. He is able to tailor the electrical output to suit the application required by the customer. So if you're looking for as much output as possible at low revs (dropping into a creek bed / waiting at lights etc etc) or higher rev range max output, he can adjust the wiring and circuitry to suit.

In my case since I'm going to LEDs, the rectified and regulated output will be entirely DC and supplemented with a gel based 12V 7Ah battery. The output of my existing large format, single copper wire (> 1mm dia) wound lighting coil will be established and a second coil produced to fill the currently vacant space for a third coil on the backing plate. The new coil will be attached to the backing plate, joined in parallel with the existing lighting coil and the shared output and return wires extended to match the length of the existing magneto wiring harness.

I'm not absolutely certain of the cost of the work for my job but it's around $Au 160 per coil and around $Au 160 for a combined rectifier / DC regulator.
The end result bike will be a highly cost effective , seriously versatile little critter

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Old 03-27-2013, 04:06 AM   #162
Ted farkas
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No worries let us know how you go - good headlight and an oil cooler and i,d be happy
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:51 AM   #163
beerbuzz
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Been watching this thread for weeks figured I'd do the first post thing-
I'm rebuilding an 86 tt350 right now I picked up for a couple hundred and a pack of smokes. The PO had no idea why it wouldn't start anymore "just wouldn't start one day" Got it home and found the timing chain ten. Had failed and I had 2 bent intake valves. Straightened them out and threw it back together and have had a blast since...
So far ive found the 05-06 wr250r front brake line fits like a glove. Anybody ever done a fork conversion on one?
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:07 PM   #164
becki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbuzz View Post
Been watching this thread for weeks figured I'd do the first post thing-
I'm rebuilding an 86 tt350 right now I picked up for a couple hundred and a pack of smokes. The PO had no idea why it wouldn't start anymore "just wouldn't start one day" Got it home and found the timing chain ten. Had failed and I had 2 bent intake valves. Straightened them out and threw it back together and have had a blast since...
So far ive found the 05-06 wr250r front brake line fits like a glove. Anybody ever done a fork conversion on one?
yes, my ex bike (stolen) got a ohlins 46 fork of a yz 426. You can lathing a new stem and press him in the ys clampe. With this solution you get problems with the gas tank.
Second solution, lathing some adapters to the yz stem. That was my one.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:39 AM   #165
Lenz1
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Originally Posted by Ted farkas View Post
No worries let us know how you go - good headlight and an oil cooler and i,d be happy
I can't speak for other operators of the long production life TT350 however my experience with the low km unit I have suggests it will provide a tough economical dual sport platform.

I've massaged the cylinder head porting, raised the compression, rebuilt the inlet manifolds, realigned the inlet tract, deleted airbox for oiled foam air filters, dialed the cams to absolute std valve timing after adjusting shims to mid tolerances (calibrated feeler gauges), adapted the auto cam chain tensioner to a manually adjusted unit, installed twin oil coolers, deleted the rubber blocks between cylinder head / barrel cooling fins for improved cooling airflow.

The rear shock has been rebuilt, front suspension drained and re-oiled with 5w oil, new chain and sprockets, seat re-covered.

There is undoubtedly a significant amount of additional power available from this engine if you're prepared to look for it.

I'm not convinced that going over to the complexity, cost and vulnerability of on-board computers for suspension adjustment, fuel management and braking plus an additional 80kg - 100kg vehicle mass is where I need to go (Triumph 800XC or KTM 990 Adventure)

I've cleaned up the engine, added major oil cooling and am in the process of installing 80 watts of LED lighting plus a 12 litre fuel bladder ..... have I missed something

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