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Old 03-24-2013, 05:12 PM   #15181
daverbmxer
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: North Dakota
Oddometer: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Just drill them out and possibly pick the shrapnel out. Then just new rivets. What do you mean with long or short?

The stick part gets cut out when you pop in the rivet.
The lenght doesnt change, only diameter as far as I know.
Nothing should fall to the inside while installing the rivets.

Man snow is stupid without studded tires. Couple weeks ago I went to watch a few of my friends riding on ice (Gulf of Finland) with the sun shining and not too cold. Good day.. I was the only one without studs
I was concerned that the inside part may fall into the muffler and work its way down the pipe. There must be an inner wall to the muffler that the rivet bites into, I was wondering how far away it is. Doubtful anyone would know I guess, but a longer rivet may be needed to reach. I guess I'll find out when I drill.

Yeah snow riding is dumb, I just went very slow at idle speed in 1st gear for the most part, putting around. The streets are almost dry now that the sun has been shining, so I put 10 miles on doing that today.


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Old 03-24-2013, 05:13 PM   #15182
shootmymime
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Joined: Dec 2012
Oddometer: 11
Hello again everyone. just thought id check in, my 1st post was on page 987.

i thought i would just throw up a fun video riding around the neighborhood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub8-2...1sSwNVSECshZ4A
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:20 PM   #15183
inroads
Wimberley,Texas
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 141
hard shifting DR

I love my DR's for a lot of reasons.My biggest complaint is the difficult shifting.drz's xt's and klx's that I own all shift smoothly.
I have removed some material as described to correct this problem from the kick starter gear but still dont have the smooth shifting I am looking for.
My Question is: can I ever expect to get the smooth easy shifting commonplace on my drz,xt and klx? or is the DR 350 an inerrant difficult and hard shifter compared to these other 3.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:38 PM   #15184
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,021
Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a FMF muffler that is rattling because the rivets at the tail end are loose. Is it as simple as drilling out the old ones and riveting in new ones? Are long or short rivets better? Any danger of the end bit falling inside the muffler and working its way back into the engine?
You might want to look at rivet nuts.... http://www.google.com/search?q=pop+r...w=1280&bih=573 ....Then you can remove the end cap if you need to. It's a blind nut that you can install from the outside like a pop rivet. There are several different styles to choose from. My local Ace hardware has them and instalation tools for just a few bucks.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:05 PM   #15185
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,021
Quote:
Originally Posted by inroads View Post
I love my DR's for a lot of reasons.My biggest complaint is the difficult shifting.drz's xt's and klx's that I own all shift smoothly.
I have removed some material as described to correct this problem from the kick starter gear but still dont have the smooth shifting I am looking for.
My Question is: can I ever expect to get the smooth easy shifting commonplace on my drz,xt and klx? or is the DR 350 an inerrant difficult and hard shifter compared to these other 3.
My "98SE was a little hard to shift and find neutral. I did the spacer thing ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=11211 ) and it's better. Not as smooth as the old XRs were but I don't think about it any more. If you check back through all the previous posts , some others have reported that new clutch plates solved the problem.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #15186
Chiknmunky
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: On road Off road
Oddometer: 60
My 99SE shifts great.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #15187
jmderyke
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: State of Jefferson
Oddometer: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwc View Post
I think the reason that they only give resistance is that it is easier to measure and most of the time is a reliable indicator.

I have a 95SE which is quite different, but most CDI's operate at similar voltages.

The "power suppy" coil on the stator on mine runs about 75-80 volts AC (rms) with the bike running. I have actually tested the CDI using 110VAC from an outlet. It works fine.

The output of the trigger coil is a little trickier, but I hooked up an ANALOG voltmeter on the 3 volt DC range and waved a magnet by the coil. I got blips of less that ½ a volt. This will depend on the response time of your voltmeter, but it is and indicator of sorts.

Using a digital meter (Fluke 77) for this test didn't give useful results.
Thanks cwc, The reason I was asking is because I have a fairly weak spark, ignition coil resistance is in spec primary and secondary even put on a new coil, brand new cdi box from horse power ignition, The trigger and source coil resistance are both in spec but the output a/c voltage seems weak. Im getting .3 volts a/c from the trigger coil which I believe is good but the source coil for the cdi im only getting 24 volts a/c which might be the problem. Anyone else might know what voltage I should be getting??
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:01 AM   #15188
kobukan
almost gnarly
 
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
Oddometer: 1,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiknmunky View Post
My 99SE shifts great.
+1 (99 dirt model)

My clutch cable broke fifty miles from home once and even without the clutch I was able to shift through gears fairly easily and ride it home.

A clutch cable that's adjusted a little on the loose side on these bikes can cause the "hard to find neutral" problem though.
__________________
'04 R1150GS, '97 R1100GS, '99 DR350, '02 DR650, '03 DR650
A Few Days Solo to Copper Canyon
A Maine Rider’s Arizona Day Trips
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:38 AM   #15189
inroads
Wimberley,Texas
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 141
Yes,your right about a loose adjusted cable making a hard to find neutral.
The adjustment is a fine line between full engagement(no clutch slip) and full disengagement(finding neutral or 1st) made even finer when you add Jesse's easy pull clutch arm.A very narrow sweet spot is the price you pay for that easy pull.

I believe that I will pull my steel clutch drive plates back out and lay them on a piece of glass to check warpage.I did not notice any blueing when I last had them out for the material removal off the kick start gear.
BTW Cheap Cycle Parts has those 6 steel drive plates priced at $8 a piece.

Thanks 2bold2getold for the reference!

inroads screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 06:44 AM
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:03 AM   #15190
Vankaye
n00b on the move
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: TampaBay
Oddometer: 206
My DR shifts much smoother when I blip the throttle and sync the rpm a bit.

Just a little blip makes a big difference between clunky and perfection...
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:18 PM   #15191
ADV BUM
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Oddometer: 124
I got the bike so I can ride it. Bags, pivot pegz, bar risers, new bars, handguards, fairing, wrapped the header. I know I will need the suspension resprung. Then the motor upgrades will come. Right now I want to ride it so I can appreciate the new motor. Next thing is to get my other bike running.



The difference between stock pegs and pivotpegz.

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Old 03-25-2013, 07:29 PM   #15192
Chiknmunky
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: On road Off road
Oddometer: 60
I am diggin that head light setup! What is it?
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #15193
ADV BUM
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Oddometer: 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiknmunky View Post
I am diggin that head light setup! What is it?
They are bajadesigns DUAL FUEGO's. When I get some time and money I will be changing the lights out for some LED's.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:14 AM   #15194
ElleOn2Wheels
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Joined: Feb 2012
Oddometer: 34
Question DR250 power output

Apologies if I'm posting in the wrong forum but I couldn't find a DR250 thread and my bike is the small sister of the DR350....

I'm making a long trip for the 1st time on my DR250. It's just 200 miles which isn't far but in the current british climate (snow), it is!
Avoiding highways, I reckon it'll take 6-8 hours :(
So I want to be able to use my heated vest which apparently uses 43W / 3.3 amps.
But the bike will have it's lights on too.
The manual doesn't help me. Can anyone here advise?

It's a 1991 DR250S.
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:00 AM   #15195
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
Oddometer: 645
Not really the anwser but for reference the 350 has about 200 watts of generator output.
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