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Old 03-27-2013, 04:35 PM   #24931
Xcuvator
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Won't a rear wheel from a 2000 model 610 fit? The 2000 to 2003's for sure had cush rear drive hubs.
They will fit. I have been trying to come across one for 3 years or so. I checked into buying the hub only from Husky, but the assembly is NLA and one of the main parts (can't remember which one) was too.
On top of that there is a difference in spoke angle, between the cush and standard hub.

Edit, I'm not so sure the axle size is the same. I have converted standard pre 03 hubs by changing bearings seals and spacers.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:32 PM   #24932
stujamur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrodder View Post
Check the battery terminals, make sure they are tight. If it cranks and the other electronics seem to work, may not be a battery. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you switch the key?
Terminals good - fuel pump primes and bike cranks ok .

Just called my local dealer to get price on regulator and rectifier ..not sure how to test but might be worth replacing .
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:40 PM   #24933
tlking6
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Anybody try these on there 610?


What size did you get and how do you like them?
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:55 PM   #24934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlking6 View Post
Anybody try these on there 610?


What size did you get and how do you like them?
I use them on my YZ250. I have them moving the bars almost entirely forward, not up (RC High bars). It was a matter of safety for me to get the bars forward, as I'm 6'4" and was whisky throttling constantly until I put them on, then pretty much never with them.

Don't need them on the 610. Moved the footpegs back and flipped the bar mounts forward, good to go. I'm running a CR bend bar, because it was actually closer to the stock bend than the "Husqvarna" bend. Google "te610 foot peg" and the first result is my writeup on another site.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:59 PM   #24935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
They will fit. I have been trying to come across one for 3 years or so. I checked into buying the hub only from Husky, but the assembly is NLA and one of the main parts (can't remember which one) was too.
On top of that there is a difference in spoke angle, between the cush and standard hub.

Edit, I'm not so sure the axle size is the same. I have converted standard pre 03 hubs by changing bearings seals and spacers.
I have had a fleabay search set up for many, many months and no hits. I checked with Halls. The '00-05 hub is available, but the cush rubbers are on backorder and the sprocket carrier is NLA. Would for sure be adaptable if you could find one, as some of the bearings are the same part number.

I called Haan in the Netherlands this morning, and they don't support the TE610 with a cush.

Will be doing RAD, probably with an Ironman and Michelin Desert Race.
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Taranis screwed with this post 06-09-2013 at 03:12 PM
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:25 PM   #24936
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
I have had a fleabay search set up for many, many months and no hits. I checked with Halls. The '00-05 hub is available, but the cush rubbers are on backorder and the sprocket carrier is NLA. Would for sure be adaptable if you could find one, as some of the bearings are the same part number. The rims on those older wheels actually match a normal Yamaha lacing pattern, according to one of the wheel builders I checked with.

I called Haan in the Netherlands this morning, and they don't support the TE610 with a cush.

Will be doing RAD, probably with an Ironman and Michelin Desert Race.
Post up the details once you have them. Something I've been contemplating doing to mine as well.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:00 AM   #24937
DutchGrandia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlking6 View Post
Anybody try these on there 610?


What size did you get and how do you like them?
I got the 2 inch risers. I'm 6'3" and run Pivot Pegz without adjustments. I like them a lot (except the price), cause you have alot of freedom to adjust just bars.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:10 AM   #24938
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Introduction

I don't think I have properly introduced myself here yet.

The name is Vincent, 35 years old from Amsterdam, the Netherlands. Riding my TE now for 2 years and I have been using this topic as a reference. So much info here

I'll only chime in when I can add something meaningful, so my contributions will be limited. Plus, I'm not a native English speaker, so bear with me.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:10 AM   #24939
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Turn signal flasher...

The stock flasher on my '07 610 broke at the little pins. Doesn't appear to be a very robust design, so I thought I'd replace it with one that has 1/4" spade terminals.

Picked up a generic 2-terminal 12 V flasher at auto parts store, but now the signals come on, but don't flash on/off. I can hear the flasher click once, but that's it.

Is there some special flasher I need to use? I'm not running LEDs, just the stock signal lights. I have the "B" terminal wired to the hot lead (red/green), and the "L" terminal to the load (blue/black).

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:07 PM   #24940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lav1200 View Post
The stock flasher on my '07 610 broke at the little pins. Doesn't appear to be a very robust design, so I thought I'd replace it with one that has 1/4" spade terminals.

Picked up a generic 2-terminal 12 V flasher at auto parts store, but now the signals come on, but don't flash on/off. I can hear the flasher click once, but that's it.

Is there some special flasher I need to use? I'm not running LEDs, just the stock signal lights. I have the "B" terminal wired to the hot lead (red/green), and the "L" terminal to the load (blue/black).

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
It sounds like the lights don't draw enough current to operate the relay coil and you need a flasher with a lower amp rating.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:56 PM   #24941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stujamur View Post
Terminals good - fuel pump primes and bike cranks ok .

Just called my local dealer to get price on regulator and rectifier ..not sure how to test but might be worth replacing .
Those voltage numbers you quoted sound OK. The voltage goes down as the RPMs go up on the Husky.

YOur concern about hearing voltage drops is when cranking/starting......with a load on the battery.......then a dramatic drop to below 10 volts indicates a bad battery.

Your stator rectifier may be OK. Hopefully the dealer won't rip you.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:02 PM   #24942
stujamur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarberPole View Post
Those voltage numbers you quoted sound OK. The voltage goes down as the RPMs go up on the Husky.

YOur concern about hearing voltage drops is when cranking/starting......with a load on the battery.......then a dramatic drop to below 10 volts indicates a bad battery.

Your stator rectifier may be OK. Hopefully the dealer won't rip you.
Thanks BarberPole

Dealer said he has never seen a bad regulator / rectifier so he very much doubhts that is the issue ( if it was cost is 160 ) .

He said to check current coming out of altenator .. Any tips / help / guidance in doing this ?

Cheers Stu
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:42 AM   #24943
K7MDL
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Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stujamur View Post
Thanks BarberPole

Dealer said he has never seen a bad regulator / rectifier so he very much doubhts that is the issue ( if it was cost is 160 ) .

He said to check current coming out of altenator .. Any tips / help / guidance in doing this ?

Cheers Stu
As the engine speeds up over 2200 RPM or so the voltage will decrease slightly as output flattens and the engine itself consumes more to run. The service manual has voltage and current curves for testing the system. Overall the voltage you listed is 0.5 to 1.0vdc lower than what I usually see on a TE610.

Probably the easiest way to see what is going on is to insert a proper size ammeter (or shunt with an accurate voltmeter) in series with the battery terminal and validate which direction the current is flowing (charge vs discharge) at various RPM. Careful with where you place it so the starter current does not blow the meter fuse (ie get a big enough ammeter or shunt device) or connect in line such that it avoids the starter.

While watching the ammeter or a voltmeter, which ever you can muster up, wait for the radiator fan to come on, turn on a turn signal, and apply the brakes to add more load and see what happens. You should have enough juice to charge the battery with this load easy. In fact you can still run an electric vest in the 65W to 90W range.

If that is not doable for you, try checking that each leg of the 3 phases going into the Voltage regulator has voltage on it (the 3 orange or yellow wires). Inspect the VR pins, look for loose connections, arcing (blackened nylon) and such. I found a new VR for $70 USD at my local dealer, Tasky's in Everett, WA a few years ago. In my case I was troubleshooting high voltage and speedo failures. Both VRs were the same and tend to run up to 15.1VDC at 2200RPM.

If a tie wrap is too close to the wires going to the VR connector it can pull the pin(s) sideways making a bad connection and leaving only 2 of the 3 phases providing power to the VR, thus slightly lower DC output.

Overall though, 13.7 to 14.2 is about right (if not lower than most TE610s) for a charged battery to run at. So I would not be too convinced something is wrong unless you can plug in a electric vest or such and see the voltage drop significantly.

- Mike
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:00 AM   #24944
uska
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I feel sorry for the streets of Chicago suburbs...
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:12 PM   #24945
BrandonR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post


I feel sorry for the streets of Chicago suburbs...
TE's are a lot of fun with 17's.
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