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Old 03-29-2013, 02:40 PM   #31
tagesk OP
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Originally Posted by TuefelHunden View Post
It is definitely OK in an air cooled GS.
h, Sir, we're talking about the liquid-cooled GS here.

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Old 03-29-2013, 05:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post
h, Sir, we're talking about the liquid-cooled GS here.

[TaSK]
Let's just make that a factual aside, shall we. What, pray tell makes the tea kettle so special that its metallurgy, space age technology (said with tongue firmly implanted in cheek), etc requires something more from its oil than a 1975 Kawasaki Z1, or any year VFR, FJR, Connie, Suzuki Bandit or just about every 2, 3, or 4 cylinder four stroke wet clutch, tranny sharing oil with crank motorcycle. My point is if you are expecting something new in any oil thread, stand by for disappointment.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:51 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by genka View Post
OK, I'll ask a question that's been bothering me for a while. The oils with the low number after the "W" are recommended for cooler ambient temperatures. Why do the ambient temperatures matter if the working temperature inside the engine is much higher?
Cold starts, pumpability, rheological losses are reasons to use a low W oil in cold clmates.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:10 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by TuefelHunden View Post
My point is if you are expecting something new in any oil thread, stand by for disappointment.
That, Sir, is all well.
The first post in this thread, however, tries to point out that I am not trying to collect what all the
fine gentlemen having a Gin Tonic here this afternoon happens to consider to be The Best Oil for
their own, or some other's engine.
In fact, I am trying to establish what you might very well consider the opposite: What BMW, the designer
and manufacturer of the engine, actually requires.

It is this assumption I would like to put in the GSpot FAQ.

Let us also, without delay, remove the producer from this. As of today, it seems as if Castrol won the
bidding and purchased the spot which BMW had left open in the manual. Next year that spot
will go to Statol, AGIP, Exxon or some other producer. We are not at all interested in
who was willing to fork out for that spot this year.

As far as I know the manual for the wethead (the 2013-model, water-cooled R-engine) has in it the
magical formula "5w-40" to indicate viscosity and "API SL JASO MA2" for the quality of the oil.
That is fine, and it has been copied into the GSpot FAQ In Verbatim and In Extensio.

Now, having covered all that which has been covered earlier in this thread, let us get right down to
the question at hand: Can I use 10w-40 in the wethead? And please do note that this has
been recommended more than one already.

There are two valid answers to this question: No (because BMW, the designer and manufacturer of the engine,
explicitly asks for something else), or Yes (becuase [...]).

The crux of this thread is this: What needs to replace those dots for Yes to become valid.
For example "The definition of viscosity means that above 0 C, an oil which meets 10w- will be
identical to 5W-......." with a reference where I, and other m3ere mortals, can enlighten ourselves,
that, Sir, is what I would very much like to have.

As a side-effect: If no-one can produce any substantial information on this, pointing to this thread will
enable us to shoot down he 10w-40-advice whenever it pops up in future oil-threads regarding the wethead.

Thank you.

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Old 03-30-2013, 04:58 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by BTL View Post
For those that have access to this Mag....this months BMW MOA has super technical article on oil, with more graphs and technical info than any oil thread needs.

I left the magazine in the bathroom......think I'll just read the owners manual from now on.
Seriously.... That was the most confusing, pointless and worthless article I have ever read. I would have been more enlightened had I tried to find help reading my Dog's turd.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:13 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post
snip
As a side-effect: If no-one can produce any substantial information on this, pointing to this thread will
enable us to shoot down he 10w-40-advice whenever it pops up in future oil-threads regarding the wethead.

Thank you.

[TaSK]
Well let me try. I went thru a series of changes with the K1200S wet clutch bikes. I had an '05, '06, and now an '08. BMW tech bulletins recommended 10W40 if I remember correctly at first. Then there were reports of the wet clutch being starved of oil...clutches squeaked when engaged...and many were replaced. BMW then came out with a modification for an oil passage to be enlarged as well as some warranty authorization for thrust washer tolerance at the back of the clutch basket. Some mechanics were reporting "dry" plates when disassembling the clutch basket and plates. All this was followed by BMW introducing a new viscosity oil which was 5W40 here in the US bottled by Spectro. and publishing a tech bulletin specifying the new 5W40 for the K1200 engines. According to a mechanic friend at a major dealership, the BMW tech rep recommended Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 5W40 full synthetic.
this stuff...
http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power-...productDetails
note the JASO-M2 on the label.
I used the BMWNA branded Spectro 5W40 fully synthetic, also JASO-M2, which continues to seem fine...no noises...clutch seems fine...feels smooth, no squeaks, etc. I have about 30K on mine and 20K on my wifes '08 K1200S.
I think BMW has come up with 5W40 as best for their wet clutch applications. And being water cooled, better internal engine dimensional control with temperature, the "lighter" weight is appropriate.
That's my take on it.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:30 AM   #37
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Task, Sir.

Have you now a WetHead? If so congratulations.
Wisdom hath many parts, unseen.

More matter with less art.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:41 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Britome View Post
Seriously.... That was the most confusing, pointless and worthless article I have ever read. I would have been more enlightened had I tried to find help reading my Dog's turd.
If you ignore some of the dialog and look at the graphs, it says that most any of those oils tested have the necessary additives for normal oil change intervals. And, it is also good information for those with extended oil change interval...like a 10K mile trip...to use the oils that have the highest acid reduction additives...the third graph. And I would pick any oil that had that and also a high anti-wear additive.
Trouble is, the graphs are confusing and even wrongly labeled. The oils were tested blind, given MOAxx labels, referred to in the text in that way, but nowhere could I find a translation. At least the important data is listed by brand names on the graphs and can be deciphered with some thinking about it. The viscosity chart is the most confusing, but I think if one throws out all the oils except the synth Castrol, Mobil 1, and BMW and then consider the other two graphs, those three oils are my choice.
So there is some value to this article.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:18 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Ryder View Post
Task, Sir.
Have you now a WetHead? If so congratulations.
Shakespeare to the rescue:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamlet
A dream itself is but a shadow.
I wrote Can I use 10w-40 in the wethead? while I should have written Can an owner use 10w-40 in the wethead?.
Sorry for the confusion, but thank you for your attention!

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Old 03-30-2013, 11:32 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
A friend also discovered through exhaustive experimentation that a quart of oil in the engine was better than a quart of oil in the tank bag.
Yes, engines appreciate having oil in them moreso than tangbags. I'm hesitant to come to a firm conclusion on this since I don't know all tank bags that well. But I'm pretty sure engines don't like to run dry. As far as I can tell (and I'm fairly biased) tank bags are usually okay being run dry.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:16 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by bracky72 View Post
A little birdie told me mobil1 0w-40 is the holy grail....
It is for German cars for sure as it meets Mercedes 229.5 and BMW LL-01. It's ok for pre-diesel particulate filter diesels, but not for 2007-on diesels. I think it's sad BMW doesn't publish a similar spec for motorcycle oils.

I think all the talk of 10w-40 in winter and 20w-50 in summer is pretty silly, as BMW also approves 5w-50 and 10w-50 and these are obviously year-around use oils. They're synthetics, of course.

In my boxers I use BMW's recommended oil, which in the USA is called Castrol Power RS Racing 4T, 10W-50. I may switch to Motorex Boxer 4T just for fun. http://motorexusa.com/musa/prod_detail.asp?id=9
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:10 PM   #42
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For those in the US... Not saying this oil is good, bad, or indifferent, only that it meets the BMW wethead specs for about $8/qt. It's probably called something else in other areas of the world.

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Old 04-01-2013, 08:55 PM   #43
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two words and the thread is complete

wait for them...............w a i t f o r t h e m................................................. .......

,,,..........................


ROYAL PURPLE
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:23 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
For those in the US... Not saying this oil is good, bad, or indifferent, only that it meets the BMW wethead specs for about $8/qt. It's probably called something else in other areas of the world.
Yes, it's called Power 1 Racing 4T.

Can you imagine how long it would take for Mobil to sue in reaction to "1?"
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:24 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Racegun View Post
wait for them...............w a i t f o r t h e m................................................. .......

,,,..........................


ROYAL PURPLE
Cause they sell it at PepBoys, right?

Not interested in Spectro, Royal Purple, and various boutique oils. Bigger is better when it comes to engineering staffs.
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