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Old 03-29-2013, 03:36 PM   #121
Droptarotter
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Location: Cloverdale
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Or if nothing else is damaged, just remove it and use the manual decomp lever.

You weren't kidding about excess sealant..........it's even in the cam bearing!

Can you post more photos of the build? That looks interesting!

Cheers
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:59 PM   #122
Dotbond OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
If Dotbond is back where's Creeper?
bill
I asked that question myself last year and got an answer along the lines of "he's doing fine down by the river".
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:20 PM   #123
muttley92
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The video doesn't show the hole in the camshaft. I was on several forums with a build thread but got fed up of being told it wouldn't work or it would be dangerous, so I took them down. I can post photos if I work out how to do it. Lol. The camshaft needs replacing so I'm thinking of going with the rallye cam for a bit of extra poke. Id really like to work out what has caused this and avoid it in the future though.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:06 PM   #124
Droptarotter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muttley92 View Post
The video doesn't show the hole in the camshaft. I was on several forums with a build thread but got fed up of being told it wouldn't work or it would be dangerous, so I took them down. I can post photos if I work out how to do it. Lol. The camshaft needs replacing so I'm thinking of going with the rallye cam for a bit of extra poke. Id really like to work out what has caused this and avoid it in the future though.
What wouldn't work and what would be dangerous???

We love pictures here!!

Cheers
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:16 PM   #125
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Hey Sparrowhawk,
+10 on the cam gear slide, it rates right up ther with...?

Fried chicken?


bill
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:53 AM   #126
muttley92
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The needle bearing on the camshaft has collapsed
http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/be...tml?sort=3&o=0
Ive ordered a new camshaft and bearings from the local ktm garage aswel as water pump seals.

this is what the bike looks like at the moment, I'll start a seperate build thread and link it, im not going to hijack this one.
http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/be...tml?sort=3&o=1
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:00 AM   #127
muttley92
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Ive now worked out how to post photos...
The needle bearing on the camshaft failed

And in response to the build thread and photos, I've now started one
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=874714

muttley92 screwed with this post 03-30-2013 at 08:05 AM
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:20 PM   #128
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A quick update, a short tale of woe, and a couple of things to watch for. After putting everything back together I had a hell of a time getting it to fire up.

I love the AntiGravity battery I put in last year. The bike sat for 8 months (August to April) without charging and the battery cranked and cranked. It would almost catch but never come to life. Only a few false starts and backfires through the exhaust.

Finally, using a little ether I got it going and it ran well when warm but felt a little bit down on power. It was a bitch to fire up when cold. I ran the Desert 100 this way but it was time to figure out why it was so hard to wake up in the morning.

Thinking the old gas may have plugged a jet I went through the carburetor. No better. Time to take the valve cover back off and see what is going on.

It turns out that the timing chain had slipped one tooth on the cam sprocket while I was working on it. The cam was slightly retarded so the exhaust valves were open a bit on the first part of the compression stroke.

Here's one something to look out for. With the timing chain tensioner out there is enough slack in the system to allow the mark on the cam to align with the top of the head like it is supposed to (rotated counter clockwise viewed from the port side) even with the chain off a tooth. So when you align up all the marks, check to make sure the front side of the timing chain is under tension, not the back.

Another mistake I made was to put too many shims on the water pump side of the rocker arm when setting play on the shaft. Only one 1 mm shim on the water pump side and then add or remove shims on the other side to get the correct play. Otherwise the rocker will make contact on part of the action.

I am a happy camper now that I have my wheels back and it's running properly.

Cheers.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:23 AM   #129
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Nice tips. Thanks.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:15 AM   #130
Project84
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Guys I realize this is a very old thread with tons of information in it.

I took ownership of my '01 Duke 2 approximately 3 years ago at 8,500. I promptly did an oil change and been happy ever since. Adjusted valves, jetted using BST Bible, sprocket change, fun fun fun ever since. Last year noticing some top end noise above 4,000 rpm had me worried, checked valves and they were still within spec, kept on riding. Put about 500 miles on since then and pulled oil plugs last night for 3k mile oil change... I realize I probably should've done it sooner.


Magnetic drain plug was found to have 2 or 3 "slivers" of metal, circular in shape, think of fine fingernail clippings, and maybe 6-8 other very small metal chips, about the size of glitter. Nothing extremely alarming as I've read of the intake rollers failing and have been expecting to get into mine at this oil change service.

Here's a pic of what the slivers looked like: (not actual pic)


I found this thread when searching for cam followers - but I really thought I remembered there being a very comprehensive and straight forward How-To Replace Cam Followers thread? I can't seem to find it. Can somone link it here please?

I'm really hoping that's what is the cause of the small amount of metal I found. Bike has 11,500 miles.
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:56 AM   #131
GSpot3r1k
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f**ked cam and rocker arm

I also had a rocker arm failure (broke) what damaged the camshaft... my mistake, not well "peened" the pin
ordered spares, and will do the waterpump!!

Is there any change that this failure also f**ked the valves?
From what i can see, they look okay... what's best way to make sure?

br
Erik
(2003 lc4 640A,31k)
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:58 AM   #132
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSpot3r1k View Post
I also had a rocker arm failure (broke) what damaged the camshaft... my mistake, not well "peened" the pin
ordered spares, and will do the waterpump!!

Is there any change that this failure also f**ked the valves?
From what i can see, they look okay... what's best way to make sure?

br
Erik
(2003 lc4 640A,31k)
Normally unless there is case breakage, the valves survive unscathed... With your mileage at around 31,000 it wouldn't be a bad idea to take the head in and have the valve seats turned...
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:28 AM   #133
GSpot3r1k
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Thanks Gunnerbuck,

I was not clear maybe on the mileage... i'm on 31000 km, valves seats around now? or @ 31000 mile?
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:23 PM   #134
NevBlu
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Rocker roller rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Project84 View Post
I found this thread when searching for cam followers - but I really thought I remembered there being a very comprehensive and straight forward How-To Replace Cam Followers thread? I can't seem to find it. Can somone link it here please?
Try this, it may help you.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...roller+rebuild
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:39 PM   #135
GSpot3r1k
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Thanks Nevblu, i was familiar with the peening procedure... i used the vice, but
didn't use enough force it seems... expensive lesson, some collateral damage but on the bright side: a opportunity to learn the bike inside out. With a lot of documentation, tips and tricks on advrider, it helped me big time!

But still a long way to go...
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