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Old 03-31-2013, 01:15 PM   #256
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Disassembled pump

Here is the pump disassembled.I expected to see some debris or something in it but it was totaly clean.The clear circle in the center is a clear diaphram pump made out of a celophane like material.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:19 PM   #257
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Internal pickup lines and filter

These are the two lines that go down to end the bottom of each side of the tank and then tee together before going into a filter and then the pump.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:12 PM   #258
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I would think the minute one of the tubes start sucking air, the vacuum is lost for both sides of the tank?
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:44 PM   #259
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I would think the minute one of the tubes start sucking air, the vacuum is lost for both sides of the tank?
Probably so, but the end of each tube goes to the very bottom of each side and is held there with a brass bolt with a hole in it that allows fuel into the tube so by the time one side sucks air the other should be very close to empty.

While testing, I isolated that possibility by disconnecting those lines and hooking a vacuum gauge to that side while running the bike and no vacuum was present even though I had a good vacuum on the engine vacuum side of the pump.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:03 PM   #260
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I have a good vacuum signal going in from the engine but the inlet pickup side of the pump had nothing so the diaphram in the pump body is not working.
You are correct that it could be the diaphragm. But it could be a flapper valve.

If either valve is not working -- either not sealing or not opening -- the pump would show the symptom you describe: no vacuum on the inlet side. The pump could be simply "breathing" through one side or it could be stuck and acting as an air shock absorber.

Please excuse a post full of speculation.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:27 PM   #261
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You are correct that it could be the diaphragm. But it could be a flapper valve.

If either valve is not working -- either not sealing or not opening -- the pump would show the symptom you describe: no vacuum on the inlet side. The pump could be simply "breathing" through one side or it could be stuck and acting as an air shock absorber.

Please excuse a post full of speculation.
That is a very good point, and probably the more likely cause.But either way the diaphram gasket needs to be replaced since they are both integrated on it.
Also, I was told a while back that Ims doesn't sell a rebuild kit, just the whole pump assembly.That seems rediculous.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:04 PM   #262
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I used to consider myself very up to date on my maint. schedule/mods and possibly even obsessive about it. Thinking I must take care of my KLR way better than all the other KLR guys out there. Reading this thread has been like stepping up to the urinals next to a horse.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:45 AM   #263
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Front tire may contact tool tubs

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Spring is finally here, so I got the Klr out for a short shake down run today.
Tommorow I am going to try and get more miles on so I will report then on how all the mods are working.
I wasn't sure if I wanted tool tubes or not but decided to make a set and try them out.
They are 3" & 2" abs plastic.

I have a gas can strapped to the rack because I am trying to figure out how far I can go on reserve with the massive 10 gallon Ims tank and also make sure the transfer pump is working.
GasGuy, have you checked the front suspension at full travel that it does NOT contact the tool tubes? Had a buddy once get quite a surprise when he hit a good bump after installing a tool tube and the front wheel locked up from hitting the tube! Yours look like under compression that front tire's gonna hit 'em. Easiest way to check it is put it on the centerstand and remove the fork top caps. You can then compress the front end without spring resistance fighting you. Or you could loop a ratchet strap from one fork bottom up over the steering stem and down to the other and "draw down" the suspension that way if there's too much crap around your fork caps to make that way easy. Anyway, I'd make DAMN sure your front tire isn't going to hit those tubes! Could make for a dangerous surprise!
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:23 AM   #264
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GasGuy, have you checked the front suspension at full travel that it does NOT contact the tool tubes? Had a buddy once get quite a surprise when he hit a good bump after installing a tool tube and the front wheel locked up from hitting the tube! Yours look like under compression that front tire's gonna hit 'em. Easiest way to check it is put it on the centerstand and remove the fork top caps. You can then compress the front end without spring resistance fighting you. Or you could loop a ratchet strap from one fork bottom up over the steering stem and down to the other and "draw down" the suspension that way if there's too much crap around your fork caps to make that way easy. Anyway, I'd make DAMN sure your front tire isn't going to hit those tubes! Could make for a dangerous surprise!
There is plenty of room.The big tube is only 3" compared to alot of people using a 4" and the front wheel is only a 19" versus a 21".

While it was on the hoist I took a straight edge and layed it against the tire on the same angle as the forks which is the direction the wheel will travel and there is plenty of room.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:27 AM   #265
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I called IMS today and they are sending me a new pump under warranty.
Great customer service.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:04 AM   #266
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GasGuy, have you checked the front suspension at full travel that it does NOT contact the tool tubes? Had a buddy once get quite a surprise when he hit a good bump after installing a tool tube and the front wheel locked up from hitting the tube! Yours look like under compression that front tire's gonna hit 'em. Easiest way to check it is put it on the centerstand and remove the fork top caps. You can then compress the front end without spring resistance fighting you. Or you could loop a ratchet strap from one fork bottom up over the steering stem and down to the other and "draw down" the suspension that way if there's too much crap around your fork caps to make that way easy. Anyway, I'd make DAMN sure your front tire isn't going to hit those tubes! Could make for a dangerous surprise!
I have chosen not to add a tool tube. Tests that I, and Bill Watt of T-Bob fame have conducted, indicate that in summer, KLR oil temps can get high if the ambient temp is high and the bike is ridden hard for an extended period. Oil temps into the 260+ range. By changing or removing bash plates does affect the oil temps.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #267
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I have chosen not to add a tool tube. Tests that I, and Bill Watt of T-Bob fame have conducted, indicate that in summer, KLR oil temps can get high if the ambient temp is high and the bike is ridden hard for an extended period. Oil temps into the 260+ range. By changing or removing bash plates does affect the oil temps.
You mean due to blocking airflow from the engine ?
What kind of oil temperature difference are you talking ? 260+ vs what without the tube ?
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:41 AM   #268
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Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
There is plenty of room.The big tube is only 3" compared to alot of people using a 4" and the front wheel is only a 19" versus a 21".

While it was on the hoist I took a straight edge and layed it against the tire on the same angle as the forks which is the direction the wheel will travel and there is plenty of room.
Gotcha. The front being a 19 instead of a 21 would make a big difference.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:17 AM   #269
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You mean due to blocking airflow from the engine ?
What kind of oil temperature difference are you talking ? 260+ vs what without the tube ?
Yes, blocking airflow. I saw temp differentials of about 10 degrees in tests between the stock bash plate and without it (I did not test a tube). Wattman has seen 270+ degrees in stock form in AZ. Adding a tube would further restrict airflow.


I went further. I added extra holes to the AL bash plate I use. I then added 16sq" of heatsink finning to the undersides of the 'sump'. This reduced the oil temps from 250 to 220 in tests at 100F ambient (60 miles at 80 mph indicated). I use a 195F water thermostat on an 08 that has better cooling..

I also made a small water/oil heat exchanger but decided on not fitting it due to the limited oil pressure and oil flow. The extra finning added met the criteria I needed.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:49 AM   #270
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I am probably already blocking a lot of airflow with the skidplate and HT engine guard.
The tool tubes pretty much just go in front of those,so I dont think they will block much more than what I am already.
The synthetic oil will help handle the extra heat along with frequent oil changes.
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