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Old 12-13-2010, 05:00 PM   #136
LukasM
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Originally Posted by Autodidact View Post
Are the rims on a '10 990 R tubeless? I'm a bit confused, as they are spoked but still come with tubeless Scorpions.

I checked the schematics, and there seems to be some sort of strip covering the spoke nipples(it doesn't have a proper name in the picture). Is this a similar setup as with the 690 rims mentioned earlier? If so, do I have to take some special precautions when removing and installing a tyre?
There seems to be some confusion here. You just have a normal rim strip covering the nipples so the spokes don't poke the tube. Whether you have tubeless Scorpions is completely irrelevant, you still need to use a tube unless you seal the rim using the methods described in this thread.

The special sealing strip is only used on the 690 SM, together with a special rim.
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:08 AM   #137
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Thanks for clearing this up. I just got around to unpacking a set of new tires which I got and was horrified to discover that they sent me a tube type front. Now it doesn't matter.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:16 AM   #138
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Last update (I hope): They're done! They're freaking done! Both wheels have had 41 psi in 'em for a week now, and that's good enough for me. WooooHoooo!!!!!
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:32 AM   #139
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Last update (I hope): They're done! They're freaking done! Both wheels have had 41 psi in 'em for a week now, and that's good enough for me. WooooHoooo!!!!!

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Old 12-30-2010, 11:38 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckracer View Post
Last update (I hope): They're done! They're freaking done! Both wheels have had 41 psi in 'em for a week now, and that's good enough for me. WooooHoooo!!!!!
just out of curiosity, what kind of tires are you running. my 908's seem to lose air after a couple of weeks. i think its the tires not my wheels. btw i fill them with nitrogen.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:54 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by mrbubblehead View Post
just out of curiosity, what kind of tires are you running. my 908's seem to lose air after a couple of weeks. i think its the tires not my wheels. btw i fill them with nitrogen.
gonna try tkc tomorrow and will report in a week!
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:32 PM   #142
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Last update (I hope): They're done! They're freaking done! Both wheels have had 41 psi in 'em for a week now, and that's good enough for me. WooooHoooo!!!!!
Shinko 705's at the moment.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:46 PM   #143
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After reading the whole thread, I am still unclear as to the 21" front on a 990 Adventure. Is there concern with sealing the inner spoke area and going tubeless? Can someone explain the tire "rollover" issue? The "safety strip"?

I have had very good luck with the Tubliss system on my dirt bikes. In addition to sealing the spoke area, the Tubliss (inflated to 120 psi) acts as a continuous rim lock, keeping the tire in place even when the main air chamber is down to zero.

So, has anyone tried or considered the Tubliss setup for a 21" front on a big adventure bike? I realize that the Tubliss is not DOT certified but I am speculating that this is more administrative/certification cost prohibitive than real world.

Thanks for all the great discussion!!
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:21 PM   #144
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Tubliss

Quote:
Originally Posted by renogeorge View Post
After reading the whole thread, I am still unclear as to the 21" front on a 990 Adventure. Is there concern with sealing the inner spoke area and going tubeless? Can someone explain the tire "rollover" issue? The "safety strip"?

I have had very good luck with the Tubliss system on my dirt bikes. In addition to sealing the spoke area, the Tubliss (inflated to 120 psi) acts as a continuous rim lock, keeping the tire in place even when the main air chamber is down to zero.

So, has anyone tried or considered the Tubliss setup for a 21" front on a big adventure bike? I realize that the Tubliss is not DOT certified but I am speculating that this is more administrative/certification cost prohibitive than real world.

Thanks for all the great discussion!!
As I understand tubeliss not getting dot certified is more then admin. Not sure I would ride the 990 at 120mph with tubliss in place. Awesome answer for motox and trail riding on smaller bikes though!

With regards to sealing the 990 rims. I have been told The front 21 inch does not have the tire to rim locking like the rear. It doesn't have the inner lip to hold the tire in place? It doesn't really need to be tubeless either because most punctures happen on the rear wheel and the front doesn't create the heat that the rear does, that can cause problems with tubes.

Seal the rear! You'll dig it!!
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:36 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renogeorge View Post
After reading the whole thread, I am still unclear as to the 21" front on a 990 Adventure. Is there concern with sealing the inner spoke area and going tubeless? Can someone explain the tire "rollover" issue? The "safety strip"?

I have had very good luck with the Tubliss system on my dirt bikes. In addition to sealing the spoke area, the Tubliss (inflated to 120 psi) acts as a continuous rim lock, keeping the tire in place even when the main air chamber is down to zero.

So, has anyone tried or considered the Tubliss setup for a 21" front on a big adventure bike? I realize that the Tubliss is not DOT certified but I am speculating that this is more administrative/certification cost prohibitive than real world.

Thanks for all the great discussion!!
Yeah, you've got it: the rear has a safety bead, which helps keep the tire on the rim in case of deflation, the front doesn't. Of course, if a tube suddenly deflates, it doesn't do much to hold the tire on the rim either. Tubliss seems like it should do some good holding the tire on the rim, as long as their setup is made for the width of the ADV front rim.

And yeah, try the sealed rear wheel- it really is a great feeling to put in a tire plug, air up, and ride off, rather than replacing a tube.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:53 PM   #146
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Just sent them a note,,, they don't list a unit for a rim as wide as the 950... But it cant hurt to ask...

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Old 03-31-2013, 11:55 PM   #147
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Check out Outex for tubeliss, you can find them on Ebay
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:49 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renogeorge View Post
I have had very good luck with the Tubliss system on my dirt bikes. In addition to sealing the spoke area, the Tubliss (inflated to 120 psi) acts as a continuous rim lock, keeping the tire in place even when the main air chamber is down to zero.

So, has anyone tried or considered the Tubliss setup for a 21" front on a big adventure bike? I realize that the Tubliss is not DOT certified but I am speculating that this is more administrative/certification cost prohibitive than real world.

Thanks for all the great discussion!!
Yes, I have been running Tubliss on the front of my 950 with no issues at all. Woody's superlaced Excel rim and a TKC80.

Bashed it through the rocks, high speed on the slab ... no issues other than the tire has a slow leak ... I probably need to deflate and re-seat the bead.

CJRacer has also been running Tubliss on his 950, which is what sold me.

My rear is a Woody's superlaced Excel rim, tubeless.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:20 AM   #149
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I know this is an old thread but it seems to have the most info...

Appears there are two schools of though on the rim sealing. Spot filling each spoke using ca and goop per woody, or covering the spoke head with a vinyl sticker and filling in the valley with silicone/5200.

I like the spot filling method as it allows for leaks to be found and repaired quickly. But doesn't the superglue and goop screw up the nipple and make adjusting the spoke impossible? Or is it fine because the wheel should be tried and perfect and the ca acts like a thread locker?

The valley filling method with the stickers would be much more difficult to spot repair, and I've worked with 5200 on boats before it is basically permanent. With proper prep and the amount of surface this method employs it would seem difficult to have leaks if done right. Plus the spokes can be tweaked. But if done wrong I can imagine you have a genuine shit show on your hands.

Thoughts? Lacing up a 17/19 setup for my dirt ninja and want this set to be tubeless.

Thanks
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:09 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
...

I like the spot filling method as it allows for leaks to be found and repaired quickly. But doesn't the superglue and goop screw up the nipple and make adjusting the spoke impossible? Or is it fine because the wheel should be tried and perfect and the ca acts like a thread locker?

...
I´ve used this method and you´re right about the thread locker. Spokes are only give problems when they loosens, they can´t become tighter by itself.

All the years, I never had problems with the spokes or wheels using this method. Good luck and let us know about your experiences.
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