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Old 03-31-2013, 09:33 PM   #24961
mountain eagle
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Maybe, depends on your setup. I can go 13-16t front with two links more than stock and a 50t rear. Then convert to 17/47 (I think, have to check) with a sumo set up.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:48 PM   #24962
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Yeah I run one chain and can run 13, 14, 15 & 16 with 50 rear (15/50 is my favorite off road set up) and then sumo set up with the same chain is 17/47
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:42 AM   #24963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Is there enough range in the chain adjusters to swap a 13 front to a 17 w/o adding a link?
I dont think a 17 will fit? I run 14, 15, 16 with stock 45. I created a thread on a gizmo shim setup for switching between 14 and 16. It worked well eliminating need to change adjustment screws...

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Old 04-01-2013, 06:00 AM   #24964
Indy Unlimited
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I have been running 17 tooth for 6 years now. You cant run a chain guard but it fits.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:05 AM   #24965
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Cam chain problem is a deal breaker for me....maybe i will keep an eye for a 630 at the right price (under 6200$ish)

Only bikes on the market that appreciate :/
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:15 AM   #24966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Is there enough range in the chain adjusters to swap a 13 front to a 17 w/o adding a link?
The only problem doing this is when adjusted all the way forward it makes the rear brake line bend more and put pressure on the brake. You have to crack the bleeder and let som fluid out and top it off when you pull it back. No big deal, just remember to do it. I have mine adjusted forward and the throw in the brake peddle feels short due to this. Anyone else have this happen?
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:14 AM   #24967
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Clogged tank vent?

My '06 TE610 was struck by a car while parked last week, and judging by the marks on my handlebars it looks like it fell on its right-hand side. Not sure how long it was on its side because someone had picked it back up by the time I saw it.

Since then I've had some issues with the gas tank not venting. First thing i noticed was an odd noise coming from behind the headlight, which was a sort of periodic wheezing. This turned out to be coming from the vent hose attached to the top left of the gas tank. About every 30 seconds it would let some air out, then stop. Opening the tank revealed it to be under some small amount of pressure, and I was able to reproduce the issue again just by shaking the tank.

In addition to that, if I run the bike for a little while without shaking it, a vacuum forms in the tank. Air does not appear to be getting sucked into the hose mentioned above when this happens.

Is it possible the vent hose is just clogged with something, or perhaps got knocked out of wherever it was mounted so it's now malfunctioning? (it's currently just hanging loose behind the headlight, but there are indentations on the end of the hose that make it look like it might have been clamped to something.) Anything else I should check?
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:23 PM   #24968
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Blow in the hose and see what happens. If its clogged, start at the end and work backwards.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:24 AM   #24969
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Pull the vent line and have a look at the vent nipple. You can remove the nipple from the tank and look at it, maybe it was damaged when the bike went down.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:25 AM   #24970
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Clogged vent?

Has the bike been desmogged?
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:36 AM   #24971
sein
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Pulled the hose off and I don't see anything particularly weird so far:



The left-hand side was connected to the tank, and the right-hand side hanging freely behind the headlight. If I blow in the right-hand side, the air passes freely through the hose and out the left. If I blow in the left-hand side, though, it takes more force to get the air through, and I can occasionally hear a kind of squeaking/wheezing sound like a goose that just stubbed its toe. The squeaking/wheezing sound is the same one that I noticed originally when the tank was under pressure.

I'm guessing there's some kind of valve inside the grey/green canister? If that's the case, then perhaps everything so far is normal and I should be looking at something else?

Quote:
Has the bike been desmogged?
I'm not sure (bought the bike used). How can I check?

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Old 04-02-2013, 08:41 AM   #24972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sein View Post
I'm guessing there's some kind of valve inside the grey/green canister?
Yes, it's a one-way check valve that vents excess pressure from the fuel tank. If left in place it can make a burping or mooing noise as tank pressure vents.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:57 AM   #24973
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Good to know that's normal, then

Since air flows freely in the other direction I'm guessing it uses the same hose to pull air into the tank to prevent it from forming a vacuum? If that's the case, maybe the hose was just kinked or something.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:36 AM   #24974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sein View Post
Good to know that's normal, then

Since air flows freely in the other direction I'm guessing it uses the same hose to pull air into the tank to prevent it from forming a vacuum? If that's the case, maybe the hose was just kinked or something.
Maybe. On the advice of George Erl (Uptite Husky) I removed the valve and just routed a line straight down to the skid plate area. Apparently, he had seen the valves fail in the past, allowing the tank pressure to reach excessive levels.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:57 PM   #24975
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Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
Maybe. On the advice of George Erl (Uptite Husky) I removed the valve and just routed a line straight down to the skid plate area. Apparently, he had seen the valves fail in the past, allowing the tank pressure to reach excessive levels.
Happened to me. The worst time, when I finally figured out what was going on, I drove from Long Beach, up the Cajon Pass to Adelanto area, back down to 138 and up to Miller Jeep Trail all with the bike in the van. When I unloaded, it had built up so much pressure that when I turned on the gas, it overpowered the float valve and filled the bowl to the point gas leaked out the vent ports in the throat of the carb and pooled in the boot connecting to the air cleaner. I had nothing better to do and a picnic bench to take it all apart, which is the only reason I found the pool of gas.

All the other times the valve screwed me and made the bike not run by overfilling the float bowl, I had either tipped the bike on its side or done a really steep climb or both. I was thinking I was getting some dirt sucked into a jet when it tipped, or something. The non-level position of the bike changed the effectiveness of the float and needle, and pressure from the tank overfilled the bowl. Never would have figured it out if I hadn't had that last time where it happened as soon as I turned the gas on.

I took off the valve (it was the last part of the evap system left after my canisterectomy) and replaced it with a Free-Flo hose (hose only, no valve). Used a vacuum restrictor from Autozone to minimize the spill rate if it does and a small inline fuel filter at the very end to avoid drawing dirt into the tank. So far, so good.

I did a lot of reading about check valves. Many people have problems with the little aluminum ones not venting. An OE check valve off a dirt bike is probably a little more reliable, but they are made to go vertically out the top of a screw-on gas cap. With the Husqvarna's horizontal vent exit, I wasn't sure the valve wouldn't get closed by normal slosh and cause the same problem all over again. Hence the restrictor rather than a check valve.

With a normal off-road bike, the overflow line on the float bowl just vents out past the linkage, and if the bowl is overfilling, it starts dumping gas on the ground visibly. Due to the carb vent lines being collected for evap control on the TE610, the overflow line runs back up higher than the air passages from the bowl chamber to the air inlet, so the lowest spill point was back into the air boot.

I installed a 7602 Racing carb vent system to fix that.
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