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Old 04-02-2013, 04:23 AM   #16681
AJ..
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icelander-DR650 View Post
Yes, it's a CRFX. Unfortunately I don't know much about it off hand, I just bought the bike but I have seen the thread that explains how to do it somewhere. I'm not home right now, but will look for the thread and post a link...

I have a few more photos on the XR650Rforum.com site (Icelander-XR650R there). Look in Introduce Yourself and Post Photos threads. I can post a few here tomorrow too if you like.


kewl..

many years back I saw those italian mod the rear fender using the CR fender by chopping off the rear,and the CR fender overlapp the chopped fender and rivet them..well something like that.
I love the crfx rear fender coz they are cheap and comes with the inbuilt LED.but I thought it would be too slim on the XRR.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:42 AM   #16682
Agent2
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While cleaning the R after a weekend of fun, I noticed the small spring (p/n 22815-MG3-000) on the clutch shaft (right below the cable attach) was broken. No idea how long it's been like this, and haven't noticed any difference in clutch feel. What does this spring do, should I fix it asap? I plan on doing nothing with it unless the R guru's say otherwise.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:13 PM   #16683
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent2 View Post
While cleaning the R after a weekend of fun, I noticed the small spring (p/n 22815-MG3-000) on the clutch shaft (right below the cable attach) was broken. No idea how long it's been like this, and haven't noticed any difference in clutch feel. What does this spring do, should I fix it asap? I plan on doing nothing with it unless the R guru's say otherwise.

I would be worried about the cable having too much slack and coming unhooked or gettting bound up at the lever or lifter rod actuator thingy. BUt other than that, its probably not a big deal.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:04 PM   #16684
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Some action







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Old 04-02-2013, 02:15 PM   #16685
RideFreak
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Location: Out in the NM Dez somewhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
Got a question.

When I snap the throttle, I get a hesitation off idle, any ideas?

Uncorked
Stock carb
178 main
68s pilot
HONDA NEEDLE SET 16012-MBN-771 on the 3rd cli
You'll need a pumper to get rid of that hesitation, the stock carb takes a half second to draw up the fuel. Proper jetting will minimize it but it'll never go completly away.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:04 PM   #16686
Jayrod1318
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Got an oil analysis done. bike has 3,000 miles on it. oil is shell rotella 15w-40.

Oil has 950 miles on it.

Bike has been well taken care of its whole life.

Not quite sure about the wear metals in this sample.

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Old 04-02-2013, 05:24 PM   #16687
peterthefarmer
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Location: Cornwall Ontario Canada
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New to the "R"

Just picked up a '06 650R. The guy I bought it from did the street conversion kit(lights, signals etc.) and nothing worked, unfortunately knew about as much about splitting atoms as he did about wiring. So I removed everything he did, and started over. I soldered and heat shrank all connections, I decided to run the ignition for the bike as it came, and run all the lights horn accessories of a small shori battery that I am mounting behind the headlight. My question is this... There is a blue wire that was intended to run the headlight, can I use this to charge the battery? And is this set up correct? Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:45 PM   #16688
Jayrod1318
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Your bike only makes AC current. Unless the previous owner installed a regulator/ rectifier and battery setup. ?

The stock regulator on the right side under the seat is just to prevent AC voltage spikes.

If you want you can run every bit of your lights of the bikes AC current and ditch the battery idea.

In fact you can power your street wiring from the headlight wire (blue wire &black wire).

There is an xr650r electricity thread with lots of info.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:53 PM   #16689
peterthefarmer
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there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:08 PM   #16690
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterthefarmer View Post
there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
You are correct.

If there is a battery wired in place, then its been converted.

I believe the blue wire up on the front harness is 12v switch pos on a BD harness. (totally out of my memory i dont have the diagram in front of me)

Those battery packs do go bad, they are just ni-cad batteries and dont have the best lifespan.

You should be able to measure 12v+ out of the red wire on the rectifier as well, but you should keep it all connected, so maybe tap in elsewhere?
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:09 PM   #16691
Jayrod1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterthefarmer View Post
there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
Ac on a bike is only good for lights.

If he had a battery on it then it is setup for DC. You should be good.

Your bike might even have a Re-wound higher output stator. While not entirely necessary I believe that is the preferred setup in order to have enough juice to operate a bigger headlight (55w) and charge the battery.

I know enough to get me in trouble so I think you should check this thread out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421789
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:16 PM   #16692
Lostsaffa
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Has anyone here had experience with pressing out the stem from the bottom triple clamp?

There is a small spigot that has been pressed into the back of the stem, I guess to stop it spinning - but I have no idea how to get it out other than drilling as a last resort...

Any help much appreciated!
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:10 AM   #16693
TJE
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Super quick question before I head to the basement:

Can I open the clutch cover without spilling oil? If no, would it matter if the engine is hot or cold?

Thanks, much appreciated!
Thomas
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:36 AM   #16694
JTucker
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Lay the bike on its side if you don't want to drain the oil.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:52 AM   #16695
babuja
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Location: Luanda, Angola
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterthefarmer View Post
there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
In my UE model I already have the DC REG/RECT, but you could install one, no big deal.



After that you can supply the gadgets you need to



http://www.ebay.de/itm/Regler-Gleich...item3cc88b1580

NOTE: Don´t use as a reference those fuse Ampere values (too high).
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