ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-02-2013, 06:06 AM   #1
Plaka OP
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,587
Another RS build...

.

Plaka screwed with this post 09-13-2013 at 11:01 PM
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 08:22 AM   #2
d mc gee
Studly Adventurer
 
d mc gee's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Upper Sandusky, OH
Oddometer: 803
Your end goal sounds familiar. Minus the knackerd center stand. Body work has nearly 200,000 miles, the bike closer to 60,000. Hopefully I'll be able to change that, more this year than the last couple.

__________________
If it wasn't for my graceful wife, my dumbass would be banned already
Doug Mc Gee

01 1150 GS
84 R100RS
74 XL350
d mc gee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 09:34 AM   #3
d mc gee
Studly Adventurer
 
d mc gee's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Upper Sandusky, OH
Oddometer: 803
I plumbed it up like Snobum describes on his site. The tanks aren't on the bike currently, with out them installed the wife can reach the ground comfortably when she uses that bike..
__________________
If it wasn't for my graceful wife, my dumbass would be banned already
Doug Mc Gee

01 1150 GS
84 R100RS
74 XL350
d mc gee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 06:51 PM   #4
RecycledRS
Along for the ride
 
RecycledRS's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Vancouver Island
Oddometer: 1,039
Interesting mod on the advance limit. Let us know how it works out.
__________________
_____________________________________
"There's a fine line between a shearing and a skinning"
RecycledRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 07:03 PM   #5
crazydrummerdude
Wacky Bongo Boy
 
crazydrummerdude's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Oddometer: 7,560
Gosh, I want some aux tanks..
__________________

crazydrummerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 10:29 PM   #6
d mc gee
Studly Adventurer
 
d mc gee's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Upper Sandusky, OH
Oddometer: 803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
They're around, but tend to be spendy unless you can find someone that doesn't know what they are..
I paid $50 for mine and they were color matched to the bike. Well the pinstripe is different, but I'm not complaining. The guy was only a couple blocks away from me and had a /7 he bought new, it looked like the Luftmiester catalog exploded on it. We were talking about all the accessories and he mentioned that it also had little gas tanks on the side. When he dug them out of the attic I smelled them, never had gas in them. I paid his asking price.
__________________
If it wasn't for my graceful wife, my dumbass would be banned already
Doug Mc Gee

01 1150 GS
84 R100RS
74 XL350
d mc gee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2013, 07:53 AM   #7
Flipflop
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Beaufort, NC
Oddometer: 59
Don't throw out the epoxy on account of a rusty can.

Mix a small batch of epoxy first, if it goes cloudy when you mix it, empty the cans into two open topped buckets... don't mix it together. The hardener, or resin, or both have been contaminated by water. The resulting epoxy kicks off like bubble gum.

To bring it back to life:

Set up a heat lamp and let it cook until both parts are clear. May take an hour or two if you are working with a full gallon. The heat lamp drives the moisture out of the epoxy, by raising its temperature above ambient...

If the resin has crystals in it... or is thicker than honey, take the bucket and set it in a hot water bath (125-130 degrees) and stir it gently and it will loosen up and melt back together.

Epoxy on its own doesn't have a failure method from storage, it doesn't have volatiles to escape... so any thickening of the parts is crystallization, and rubbery finished products are from moisture contamination.

You've got a 30 year shelf life if stored properly, and if not stored properly normally it can be brought back to life by the above methods.

Cheers,

Zach... Boat builder.
Flipflop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2013, 07:22 PM   #8
Flipflop
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Beaufort, NC
Oddometer: 59
I use electric oil radiator style heaters, and reflectix aluminum foil bubble wrap insulation stapled around the perimeter raises work surfaces inside that area above 60 degrees for general work. 60 is the magic number where paint, epoxy, polyester and vinylester cure with no issues the next day... much below requires baby sitting paint and poly/vinylester. A 10 X 10 area with a 1500 watt heater set to full blast and a heat lamp to see brings surface temperatures up to 70, and air temps up to 60 with out much fuss even if its blowing a storm and 30 degrees outside.

For small parts a heat lamp or two a foot or two away makes the difference. Epoxy doesn't feel wind chill. I use an infrared thermometer to judge temperature. Warming the epoxy with a heat lamp or bringing it in to a warm place overnight to get a 70 degree temperature makes the difference in wetting out cloth. Below 70 its trying to wet out a burlap bag with honey...

West systems fast hardener will kick off above 35 degrees, and be sandable the next day so long as it is done 3 or 4 hours before any dew hits it.

I've had old fast hardener turn blood red, and stink when you open the can... more so than normal, but the tech guys have said there is nothing wrong with it and I've had no issues.

Cheers,

Zach
Flipflop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2013, 03:03 PM   #9
Dmaster
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Dmaster's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Netherlands.
Oddometer: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
That makes me ill you know...

Got a little done today. Nice stainless steel banjo bolt for a rear breather. No more spooge on the rear drive.





The first photo is a mirror image right?
And why didn't you put the banjo bolt into the plug so you can undo this mod?
No more spooge? you mean water right? In that case, 1 hose won't really "breath" you will still get moisture in and it can't get out of the hose.
As long as you don't do water crossings the stock breather is fine imo....
Dmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2013, 06:01 AM   #10
Flipflop
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Beaufort, NC
Oddometer: 59
Tip:

If you catalyze the bondo, and catalyze about an equal amount of polyester resin then mix the two together evenly you end up with a paintable/spreadable coating that is easy to sand and builds quickly.

You can put that over 15 minute drywall mud, and it will toughen it up after the mud has been shaped, so you are slicking it out instead of doing heavy shaping.

Lastly, if you haven't played with peel ply, it is a treated cloth that resin doesn't bond to.

You can lay it down on your mold, lay up the part and peel the peel ply off the part leaving a surface you don't have to sand or grind, it is "Smooth" but has the weave of the cloth embossed in the surface, giving a better bond than what you can get with a grinder for the next coat of mud, or primer.

Otherwise, you can cover the mold in mylar packing tape and not have to paint it and wax it to get the part to release. Grin. This is a super slick finish, that requires sanding to prime or mud over.

Zach
Flipflop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2013, 03:30 PM   #11
Dmaster
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Dmaster's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Netherlands.
Oddometer: 227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
The spooge is the oil mist that comes out the breather. There is always a wet spot on top of the final drive. See all the black stuff? This one was never cleaned.
So what't the problem? Its not really like your losing oil.... i barely see it on my bikes. Maybe you live in a place where its HOT and that's making it worse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
A simple line going up and to the rear solves this. The length of the line serves as a trap, oil drains back down into the drive. Expanding and contracting air uses the open end of the line. Simple and effective.
The thing is, water will get inside no matter what. You will trap the oil in the hose but also the water ruining your oil quality (yust my 2 cents)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Putting the breather in the filler plug means it's in my hair every time I change oil. That banjo seals with o-rings cut into the banjo faces (It's intended for gas). Just loosening it works poorly. You have to take it off. Also you have to take it off to get a socket on the bolt, which is a better way to remove it than a OE wrench.
Drilling a hole next to another hole..... I think it looks awkward, but that's just me i guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Edit: I see what you're talking about. It would work better on the top, huh? Pretty funny, I'll have to move it.
Sorry this made me .
Dmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 12:52 AM   #12
Prutser
Studly Adventurer
 
Prutser's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: The Dutch swamp
Oddometer: 929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post





Got to redrill one hole, it's bugging me already. I was using a pair of silicone gaskets but they were too squishy and I couldn't get the bolt torque I wanted. I'll make up some paper gaskets and try to get it on tomorrow.
You are drilling a lot of holes in that poor bike. The ones in the side of the sump made the sump weaker than it was.
Those 6mm bolts are not going to hold any sort of impact.
I know what can happen to a sump guard like that. I have been using something like that for more than 15 years and 300.000km.
__________________
BMW R100'91/R80'93/R75/6 R80ST'83/R65GS'87/GasGasTXT300/DouglasW20-1920

R100GS'91 (sold)
Prutser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 02:06 AM   #13
ME 109
Beastly Adventurer
 
ME 109's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Albury Australia
Oddometer: 2,304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
You are drilling a lot of holes in that poor bike. The ones in the side of the sump made the sump weaker than it was.
Those 6mm bolts are not going to hold any sort of impact.
I know what can happen to a sump guard like that. I have been using something like that for more than 15 years and 300.000km.
JB QWIK.
__________________
Lord of the Bings, kangaroo farmer
ME 109 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #14
ME 109
Beastly Adventurer
 
ME 109's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Albury Australia
Oddometer: 2,304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I can do it if I go slow enough but the fairing is just very heavy and has delicate mounts...
The RS fairing is a remarkable piece of engineering when it comes to withstanding harsh treatment.
Mine's probably done a million corrugations on dirt roads.
Not to mention pot holes.
Or kangaroos.
__________________
Lord of the Bings, kangaroo farmer
ME 109 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2013, 06:06 AM   #15
Flipflop
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Beaufort, NC
Oddometer: 59
I use a sheet of durarock tile board with a piece of formica laid over the top. Slick, takes wax well.

I would make a riser for the part you want to build... glue a piece of plywood to the bottom of the form, then fillet the part to the table with modeling clay. It is always easier to cut the part down a bit, than it is to try for a perfect sized part fresh off a temporary mold.

You want a table about 10 inches wider than the part, if you are using vacuum bagging tape to hold it down. Make the bag 10 inches wider on all sides than the table, Stick down the outer corners first, then pleat up the inside edges to take up the slack. Put blue tape over the yellow tape first, so when you are wetting out you don't get any resin anywhere near the bag tape.

The front edge/highest point should really be extended 2-3 inches further than the part you want to make so it can take a radius, otherwise you are liable to pop the bag at that point, at some point during the time when your resin is curing... Which is bad, because your part will be worthless if left unchecked, boiled full of air.

Try to put a clear vinyl hose loop going to the bag rather than your red rubber... If you do suck resin into it, you won't have to throw away the red rubber hose. Also if you have a pressure pot, or can rig up a PVC pipe (Tap the sides for inlet and outlet above the height of the resin, pipe caps on top. Catch cans save your pump, won't kill the vacuum pump if it does get in the line.

Cheers,

Zach
Flipflop is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014