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Old 04-03-2013, 07:44 PM   #1021
newcastleadam
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Gainesville, Fl
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Replaced the clutch springs awhile back with EBC springs, and the pull is soooo bad that I really hate trail riding. Haven't had a hand cramp up this bad since I was 13 . Gonna put some factory springs in there, which will make this at least time #4 that I've changed the water pump gasket
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:20 AM   #1022
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Replaced the clutch springs awhile back with EBC springs, and the pull is soooo bad that I really hate trail riding.
Arrowhead markets an extended clutch arm, Part # 20-4400, fitting KLR650's that may work on a KLR250. This product increases leverage from the force of the clutch cable pull; the EBC clutch springs may be manageable with this product, pricey though it may be!
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:35 AM   #1023
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by max384 View Post
Almost there...
Looks great!

Thought about a bash plate?

Here's Utah Sport Cycle's KLR250 model; I like the way the ears protect the water pump housing and plumbing:

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Old 04-04-2013, 06:02 AM   #1024
redneckdan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Gonna put some factory springs in there, which will make this at least time #4 that I've changed the water pump gasket

This time apply gasket tack to the pump cover surface and anti-sieze to the pump case surface. The gasket will stick to the pump cover, that way when you remove it in the future you can put it some where up out of the way to avoid damaging the gasket while working on the bike. The thin coat of anti sieze will prevent the gasket from sticking to the case but the gasket will still be able to seal.


I had the KLR250 out for a ride last weekend. The carb started over filling. Probably got a stuck float or a piece of grit stuck in the need seat. I am going to looking into jetting mods while I have it apart.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:51 AM   #1025
newcastleadam
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IIRC the EBC springs measured in at 2-3mm over the stock springs, which I assumed meant that the stock ones were done. On further reflection, I think the EBC ones are just too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Arrowhead markets an extended clutch arm, Part # 20-4400, fitting KLR650's that may work on a KLR250. This product increases leverage from the force of the clutch cable pull; the EBC clutch springs may be manageable with this product, pricey though it may be!
The pull is so bad that I don't think the extended clutch arm would bring it back to stock pull.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redneckdan View Post
This time apply gasket tack to the pump cover surface and anti-sieze to the pump case surface. The gasket will stick to the pump cover, that way when you remove it in the future you can put it some where up out of the way to avoid damaging the gasket while working on the bike. The thin coat of anti sieze will prevent the gasket from sticking to the case but the gasket will still be able to seal.
I'd seen that before, and might actually do it this time
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:14 AM   #1026
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
IIRC the EBC springs measured in at 2-3mm over the stock springs, which I assumed meant that the stock ones were done. On further reflection, I think the EBC ones are just too long.

The pull is so bad that I don't think the extended clutch arm would bring it back to stock pull.
Maybe not. You may have this data already; stock clutch spring length is 33.6 mm; service limit: 32.3 mm.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:56 AM   #1027
max384
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Location: Sugar Notch, PA
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The petcock I rebuilt still leaks. I've got the flywheel off... And no feeler gauge to be seen. Fuck, this bike has been nothing but a headache. Time to start pulling stuff off again... I'll be happy once it's finally roadworthy.
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:57 PM   #1028
Dblarrow
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Location: Kila, montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rube View Post
So the stock coolant overflow tank interfered with the idle speed screw, float bowel drain screw, and the choke on the Mikuni TM33 I mounted on my KLR250.
I made a new, smaller tank from a baby bottle (clear and heat resistant). Now I can drain the float bowl, reach the idle screw and it looks like I can fit the carb mounted choke plunger. Right now the baby bottle is zip tied to the frame. If it seems to work, I'll work out a better mount.
I drilled two holes through the baby bottle flat storage top, epoxied a couple hose barbs in the holes. One of the barbs has a hose inside the bottle that hooks to the radiator tube, the othe barb hooks outside the bottle to the vent tube that goes to the rear fender. The baby bottle nipple flange is being used as a gasket.

I think it will work. If it warms up a little next week I'll get some more riding in with the new carb and catch tank.

rube
Anybody just not use the overflow tank? Put a KLX carb on my 89 and it has the choke knob on the card and the tank is in the way. Pulled the tank and plugged the lines and ran around the yard and back roads and the temp stayed just short of mid gauge. So how critical is that overflow?

Also have the CW 330 kit and he put a pressure relief hole in the rotor cover and a 1/4" line out the back of the bike. So the tank gets in the way of that also.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:22 PM   #1029
XDragRacer
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Replacing Brake Shoes

1. Remove brake rod free play adjusting nut (14 mm), freeing brake rod from brake drum lever.



2. Remove axle nut, loosen drive chain tension adjusters.



3. Raise rear wheel off ground.

4. Slide axle forward, loosening drive chain; remove drive chain from rear sprocket.



5. Remove hitch pins from axle retention pins, pull axle retention pins upward to free axle.





6. Slide axle rearward, remove brake shoe assembly from drum.



7. Remove brake shoes (brake spring plies recommended; locking pliers, screwdrivers, punches, etc., have their limitations for this procedure).

8. Clean residue from drum, using brake cleaning fluid and rag.



9. Install replacement brake shoes into place on pivot pin and cam, grease activation cam and pivot pin.



10. Reassemble rear hub assemblies in reverse of disassembly, adjust rear brake pedal free play with adjusting nut, but—do not fully tighten rear axle, aligned correctly with drive chain tension adjusters. Spin up rear wheel and apply rear brake sharply, allowing shoe lining to center itself in brake drum. Check axle alignment, tighten rear axle nut fully, insert axle cotter pin and ride on!

---------------

Truth be told, my own KLR250 brake shoe replacement story has no happy ending, YET! EBC brake shoe cam contact surfaces were too wide to fit between cam flanges (about 11/16" wide, vs. OEM 5/8" width). Shoes would not contract sufficiently to enter drum. May have an appointment with Mr. Bench Grinder tomorrow to address this problem (i.e., grind cam contact surfaces so brake shoes will clear drum when at rest).!



In contrast, the old OEM brake shoes shown below have clearance to fit within the cam flanges, allowing contraction to insert the brake shoe mechanism into the brake drum:


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Old 04-06-2013, 05:12 AM   #1030
bigfishs
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nice write up!
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:17 AM   #1031
rube
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TM33 install

This is the coolant catch tank I came up with for the Mikuni TM33 installed on my KLR250. This photo shows the stock carb cable choke installed. I now have the choke knob that came with the TM33 in place.
I'm still not decided if i am going to keep the carb on the bike or go back to the stock CV carb. I use this bike to commute and my milage went from 60-70 mpg with the CV carb to 40-45 with the TM33 pumper.

Rube









Quote:
Originally Posted by Dblarrow View Post
Anybody just not use the overflow tank? Put a KLX carb on my 89 and it has the choke knob on the card and the tank is in the way. Pulled the tank and plugged the lines and ran around the yard and back roads and the temp stayed just short of mid gauge. So how critical is that overflow?

Also have the CW 330 kit and he put a pressure relief hole in the rotor cover and a 1/4" line out the back of the bike. So the tank gets in the way of that also.
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:01 AM   #1032
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by bigfishs View Post
nice write up!
I appreciate the compliment, bigfishs!

Glad to announce, my brake shoe replacement story has a HAPPY ENDING!



Compare with:



I would like to thank the manufacturers of bench and hand-held grinders, and the marketers of grinding and polishing abrasives!

Most of all, thanks to Shane, Service Manager at The Motorcycle Factory, Inc., Woodbridge, VA, for his customized modification of the brake shoes.

LESSON LEARNED: Never, ever, buy brake shoes again from EBC, or probably anyone other than Kawasaki. Reason: Aftermarket product did not fit; sloppy, rough and slaggy casting; poor quality control and/or design.

Other EBC products: My mind's open; their oversize rotor works great on my KLR650. Brake shoes? Not a chance! The few dollars saved were not nearly worth the aggravation of re-working defective parts.

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Old 04-06-2013, 05:55 PM   #1033
bigfishs
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everyone loves a happy ending! My bike will need some shoes soon so this is useful info. Did not know that bit about not tightening up the axle till the brakes are centered.

In other news...

Took my 94 KLR250 to get it NYS inspected today. Failed for not having the kickstand kill switch, and no license plate light.

When I got the bike in dec it would die when I pulled the clutch in sometimes so I snipped the wire from the lever, and put in a loop and spade clips.

So today after the inspection, I hooked up the clutch switch, cleaned it and the dying persisted, obviously. Checked it with a multimeter and it is working ok.

Moving to the kickstand switch, it was not moving freely and was bent (the plunger of the switch) and would rotate out of the way of the stand metal contact sometimes. I cleaned it up and straightened it up somewhat but im not sure if its working properly..

For this year of manual kick bike, when should that switch kill the engine or what is the normal operation? Hopefully someone can answer each of these questions, my guess is at the end of each question.

1. Bike in neutral, stand down, clutch in, run/start ok?
2. Bike in neutral, stand down, let clutch out, run/start ok?

3. Bike in gear, clutch in, stand down run/start ok?
4. Bike in gear, clutch letting out, stand down..kill?


5. My understanding is that the clutch switch trumphs all..hence why closing that circuit allows the bike to ignore what is happening with the kickstand and

6. the neutral switch in combo with the kickstand can kill the engine providing the clutch isnt in.

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...78b118/stand-s


SWITCH,SIDE STAND27010-1189 $39

This looks like what I need. Anyone have a write up on where it plugs in? Looks like I may have to take a side cover off...or just cut the wires, solder and shrink wrap?
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #1034
bigfishs
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Also, he pointed out the front rotor is pretty worn and grooved. Looks like a new OEM one is 220 dolla. Are there any other options, preferably cheaper out there? I only paid $700 for the bike and probably have around 400 in parts into it so far...but it should be almost good to go now.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:09 PM   #1035
bigfishs
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Here is a pic for fun. New 606 tire on the front.

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