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Old 04-05-2013, 09:22 PM   #16726
superhobie
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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Because it works for me?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Why the fuck wouldn't you use your clutch when shifting? What is the purpose? When I am trying to go fast, I like the clutch, its neat. Some people even keep their clutch when the run a recluse.

I love dropping into a sandy wash and pinning the throttle in fourth and feathering clutch as it launches towards 80mph. Try powering up a twisty sandy wash with your clutchless power shifts and see what comes out of your oil.

Why all this anti-clutch sentiment?

I think the anti-clutch crowd needs to go ride.

Um okay, ride like 15k miles through Desert/Baja/Sierra Single track/Street and everything in between, like that kind of riding? All done with as little clutch as necessary to start and stop and power up technical rocky uphill single track. Feather your clutch in sandy wash not sure on that one but what ever floats your boat. Point is lots of people who have been riding a long time don't use the clutch either for up shifting or down shifting given the right variables and skill level. As for the purpose its one less thing to do that is not necessary and results in a faster shift, if you choose to use your clutch for every shift congrats, but certainly don't imply that in some way it limits other peoples riding I can assure you it doesn't

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Old 04-05-2013, 10:27 PM   #16727
Jayrod1318
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Dear Mr. Honda, don't be a bitch about my PetCock



He's a good petcock, but the ethanol he ingests and has been sitting in for 12 years has made him a hard, brittle little bitch that keeps clogging carburetor jets. Not only that he has incontinence and dribbles gas when he's not supposed to.

The solution you ask? We shall rebuild him. A quick call to the Stealership yields an un-comforting answer. "Honda only sells the whole assembly for $47.00". I press further I said, "It's just just a rubber disk with 4 holes in it and an X-ring that goes on the valve handle". Dealer says "sorry can't help, I can get you the whole thing in 3 days".

No, not again. Mr. Honda will not thwart my plans at fixing my Petcock. I search diligently on here and and on TT to find an answer, surely some tight wad asshole like me wants to stick it to the man and fix his petcock with inexpensive rubber bits. The most popular answer to leaking petcock was to simply buy the whole thing like Mr. Honda wants you to. The second most popular answer was to buy an aftermarket petcock like the one from Clark manufacturing. It's cheaper and by all accounts does a fine job but has no reserve. Well Fuck that. An obscure old post on thumper talk alludes to an 18mm 4 hole gasket that works, but is actually is too small. The corresponding x-ring is too small as well. Well I thought this is a start, At least I know Mr.Honda does sell some petcock parts. Now lets find out which ones. A barrage of Google searches comes up with the 18mm parts for some old cb's and the like. Not very many petcock parts available form Honda. But also hidden in the results is the "trx 250 petcock kit". Interesting, by the photos it looks to be quite a bit bigger in diameter than the others ones. Several google searches later I come up empty handed with size info on the trx 250 petcock parts. No info or posts telling me this is what people buy to fix xr650r's. (or any other Honda dirt bike). In fact no petcock parts are available for any popular Honda model. I quick measurement of my leaky petcock confirms, it has a 22 mm valve body. Well, I said to myself, lets roll the dice. The Trx 250 parts were ordered. Part #'s 16955-HA2-005 4 hole gasket. and part# 16963-HB9-005 x-ring.



A dial caliper confirms the 22mm size. Bingo.

A quick install, make sure you lube your petcock for smooth action and valve handle insertion. (don't try to insert it dry you will tear it)




Any minute now i fear some Japanese mafia guys will pull up and "teach me a lesson". So far so good.

With the widespread use of ethanol in gas and the aging nature of these bikes, this will start to become more commonplace. I hope this bit of Knowledge will kick around and I hope I used enough keywords in this post to find it down the road.

My contribution to the xr650r knowledge base.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:20 AM   #16728
TJE
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After a recent clutch change, the clutch was slipping bad when spanking the gas.

I just took it apart for the second time, to double check. I took some pics of it all, so if you see anything odd/wrong, please let me know.

Notice the wear marks on the inner smallish one. Also, if you can, please let me know why some of the friction plates has the number "1" imprinted on it, and others have the numer "2". I can't see ANY difference at all.

Did I line up the discs correct?

On the last picture, you can see that one of the damn bolts snapped, even though I wasn't using a lot of force. It must have been stressed already. What would be the way to fix this?

I think I'm getting a depression now :(




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Old 04-06-2013, 03:55 AM   #16729
slickwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppy View Post
Why do you have the last clutch plate sitting where it is(in the second last pic), and not the same as the others?. Is that the way you had them set up when the clutch was slipping.? It should be where the others are. Not sure what the numbers represent, maybe just manufactures markings.
This isn't correct. Check the manual. The last disk is supposed to be offset from the others and sits in the fingers of the clutch basket.

What I do notice though is that your total clutch pack thickness isn't enough. You can't directly compare mine because mine has the judder spring mod, meaning it's long gone. You get rid of the judder spring, judder plate, and the skinny disk and replace with an extra plate and regular fiber disc leaving a total of six plates and seven identical fiber discs. However, even with that mod the total cluck pack thickness is comparable. You pic just doesn't show enough thickness to get them to adequately lock together under power. Lay out every component in order and compare them to the microfiche and see what is missing. Or take a pic with them all laid out in order so that we can compare for you.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche...03&fveh=134983

Seat for judder spring, then judder spring, then skinny disc, then the alternating plates and regular disc.

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Old 04-06-2013, 04:03 AM   #16730
Sean-0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post


He's a good petcock, but the ethanol he ingests and has been sitting in for 12 years has made him a hard, brittle little bitch that keeps clogging carburetor jets. Not only that he has incontinence and dribbles gas when he's not supposed to.

The solution you ask? We shall rebuild him. A quick call to the Stealership yields an un-comforting answer. "Honda only sells the whole assembly for $47.00". I press further I said, "It's just just a rubber disk with 4 holes in it and an X-ring that goes on the valve handle". Dealer says "sorry can't help, I can get you the whole thing in 3 days".

No, not again. Mr. Honda will not thwart my plans at fixing my Petcock. I search diligently on here and and on TT to find an answer, surely some tight wad asshole like me wants to stick it to the man and fix his petcock with inexpensive rubber bits. The most popular answer to leaking petcock was to simply buy the whole thing like Mr. Honda wants you to. The second most popular answer was to buy an aftermarket petcock like the one from Clark manufacturing. It's cheaper and by all accounts does a fine job but has no reserve. Well Fuck that. An obscure old post on thumper talk alludes to an 18mm 4 hole gasket that works, but is actually is too small. The corresponding x-ring is too small as well. Well I thought this is a start, At least I know Mr.Honda does sell some petcock parts. Now lets find out which ones. A barrage of Google searches comes up with the 18mm parts for some old cb's and the like. Not very many petcock parts available form Honda. But also hidden in the results is the "trx 250 petcock kit". Interesting, by the photos it looks to be quite a bit bigger in diameter than the others ones. Several google searches later I come up empty handed with size info on the trx 250 petcock parts. No info or posts telling me this is what people buy to fix xr650r's. (or any other Honda dirt bike). In fact no petcock parts are available for any popular Honda model. I quick measurement of my leaky petcock confirms, it has a 22 mm valve body. Well, I said to myself, lets roll the dice. The Trx 250 parts were ordered. Part #'s 16955-HA2-005 4 hole gasket. and part# 16963-HB9-005 x-ring.



A dial caliper confirms the 22mm size. Bingo.

A quick install, make sure you lube your petcock for smooth action and valve handle insertion. (don't try to insert it dry you will tear it)




Any minute now i fear some Japanese mafia guys will pull up and "teach me a lesson". So far so good.

With the widespread use of ethanol in gas and the aging nature of these bikes, this will start to become more commonplace. I hope this bit of Knowledge will kick around and I hope I used enough keywords in this post to find it down the road.

My contribution to the xr650r knowledge base.

nice work
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:41 AM   #16731
Renazco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJE View Post
Also, if you can, please let me know why some of the friction plates has the number "1" imprinted on it, and others have the numer "2". I can't see ANY difference at all.
I can only assume as I've seen with other clutches, that numbers 1 & 2 are different thicknesses. If you have a set of calipers I would like to see if there is a difference.








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Old 04-06-2013, 08:44 AM   #16732
KonaTheHusky
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Hey all,

Recently picked up an awesome BRP that will take me to Panama this May. Love the bike, and got it on the cheap because it had been sitting for a year and needed a carb clean. Well I took the carb out for a thorough clean, but its still not right.

When I bought her she ran rich (black smoke and blackened spark plug) and would die if I took it off choke.

Now I've cleaned the jets, the needle is 2nd notch, and I put a 170 main jet in (she had a 180 when I bought her). Air screw is 2 turns out. She will now run at idle without choke, but as soon as I open up the throttle there's black smoke and she bogs down. Full choke she runs like a bat outa Hell and doesn't bog, but obviously idles high. I have yet to give the air filter a good cleaning.

The bike came with a big gun straight pipe, slotted xrsonly air filter cover, and supposedly a high comp piston but I take that with a grain of salt since I can't see it and don't have receipts. I'm at 5500ft, its around 60f these days.

Oh, I also adjusted the valves. Any thoughts?
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:48 AM   #16733
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
Any thoughts?


Are you sure you're moving the choke lever the right direction? No offense.


Try riding it with the lever in the direction that makes it run right and drop the idle speed.
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:04 AM   #16734
KonaTheHusky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Are you sure you're moving the choke lever the right direction? No offense.


Try riding it with the lever in the direction that makes it run right and drop the idle speed.
No offense taken. It's an embarrassing prospect, but makes a lot of sense considering I never thought to check which choke lever position corresponded with which plate position. Hahaha that actually makes a lot of sense.

I'll check after breakfast and let ya know.
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:21 AM   #16735
Shibby!
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TJE, did you thoroughly soak the fibers in oil prior to install?
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:22 AM   #16736
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
nice work
+1 Jayrod, I luv it so much that I've 'filed' your photo of the numbers. Will order a set before they tell me "Ooh, no, too old, not available anymore".
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:23 AM   #16737
KonaTheHusky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
No offense taken. It's an embarrassing prospect, but makes a lot of sense considering I never thought to check which choke lever position corresponded with which plate position. Hahaha that actually makes a lot of sense.

I'll check after breakfast and let ya know.
Well looks like I havent been using the choke right. Embarrassing...

Gotta head to Denver so don't have time to apply my new found knowledge. Later today though.

Thanks man.
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:33 AM   #16738
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJE View Post
What would be the way to fix this?
Easy.
Drill a very small hole in the center of the remnant, as dead-center & as square as you can get.
Then next drill a bit bigger, but with a size that will allow you to hammer-in an allen key.
Then hammer in allen key and turn it out.

Oh, renew ALL the bolts, cheap enough.


Edit: someone mentioned 'dry friction plates' and 'soaking them in oil'. You did the latter didn't you? You should, overnight, maybe even heat the lot a bit. I'd put them in an pan with oil, heat to say 100C and let them cool off overnight.

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Old 04-06-2013, 10:35 AM   #16739
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
Well looks like I havent been using the choke right. Embarrassing...

Gotta head to Denver so don't have time to apply my new found knowledge. Later today though.

Thanks man.

, brain farts happen.
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:52 AM   #16740
Jayrod1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
+1 Jayrod, I luv it so much that I've 'filed' your photo of the numbers. Will order a set before they tell me "Ooh, no, too old, not available anymore".
Having purchased lots of oem honda parts over the years I can tell you that these are current manufacture. They have the shiny new red labels and such. But they also do not cross reference with any other machines.

They are using these parts elsewhere, probably alot of the Honda's have a 22mm petcock.

I think I know why they won't sell the parts separate, liability. lawyers, and gas leaks explosions ect....

In fact if you are not careful it is very VERY easy to tear the x-ring that goes on the handle= leaky gas.
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