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Old 10-17-2012, 09:23 AM   #16
TheMuffinMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StmbtDave View Post
NIck - I would highly suspect the fuel pump. I have had almost the same symptoms and it was the pump. Geek had a thread that went on for pages as he tried different solutions, insisting that it couldn't be the pump. He finally switched his pump and the problems went away. It's an easy solution.

Dave
+1


My bike had a very similar issue on my long trip last summer. I'd be humming along and then all of the sudden I would loose one cylinder (or rarely both) and it'd start popping sputtering slowing down, and acting like it was on it's death bed . The frequency of the phenomena was related to my speed.

My pump ended up being fine (stock w/Dr Beans kit) but I had pinched the fuel line out of the main petcock which over time the pump couldn't suck enough fuel through the kink. Once I trimmed the fuel line a bit (I had replaced it earlier with a slightly longer hose to aid in fuel tank removal/replacement) I didn't have any more trouble.


So to me that sounds like fuel starvation. I'd pursue this first. If I ever get my old stock pump put back together you can use it for troubleshooting.

You could also check to make sure you carbs are seated in the intake boots. Mine slipped out after 10,000 miles on my trip (but I also didn't tighten the clamps down much since I've stripped out the tiny screws/clamps on the carbs side of the intake boots a couple times). It caused popping and rough running occasionally but didnt cause the bike to die.

When my ignition contacts were wonky my bike died but the power was still on to the dash/lights and the starter would NOT start the bike again until I cycled the key in the ignition. So I don't think it's your ignition lock contacts.

It could be your battery contacts/starter relay contacts but I'd expect electrical symptoms which you don't have.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:26 AM   #17
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Thanks Graham. Sounds like what I was experiencing. Well, at least if it ISN'T the pump, I'll have a spare to take with me on trips. Everything is off the bike now.

I still have to check tank filters. I'll check the petcock, too, and fuel lines when I reinstall the tanks.

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Old 04-05-2013, 07:45 PM   #18
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BUMP! It's doing it again.

After putting it together last October I never rode it until last weekend. It was depressing and didn't want to mess with it.

But the weather is getting warmer so I took my wife and myself to dinner last Saturday. Ran fine. Ran fine Wednesday, ran fine this morning. It started to sputter this afternoon just as I pulled into the hobby shop parking lot.

I had my wife bring the truck by so I could get it home.

I'll tear it apart this weekend and re-check everything. Blah....
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:02 PM   #19
StmbtDave
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Aren't these bikes just so much fun to work on? Bay of LA, Baja:



Middle of nowhere = great place for carb problems



I feel your pain...

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Old 04-05-2013, 11:49 PM   #20
gefr
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Hi there

I wonder if you have carb heaters. I experienced carb icing twice. It was damp and humid close to 10C and the bike started sputtering. However if I stopped for a while (say 5') and let it idle, it would clear for another 10 minutes or so. That is why KTM installed carb heaters after 2005 IIRC.
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:04 AM   #21
garmei
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I've had similar problems that were caused by dirty electrical connections off the fuel pump wiring...
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:22 AM   #22
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Well, I'll offer my 2 cents. Gas engines need fuel, air, and electricity to run. You're missing one of the three. So, I'd install a simple voltage meter to make sure you aren't having an odd intermittent electrical problem. Note that some have had intermittent electrical failures at the starter relay:

(pic borrowed from Aurel's thread)

Pyndon had that problem for 10,000 kilometers or so. I can't imagine that's your problem, but it's an easy thing to check.

If it's not a volts problem, it's air or gas. I'm betting it's gas. That means gas is not getting to the fuel pump or the fuel pump is running into problems. Consider pulling the fuel shutoff valve and draining the tank to make sure you don't have a problem there. We once had a tractor on the farm with a rag in the tank that just about drove everyone insane.

If the problem's not in the tank, I'd make sure there is no other restriction that is causing a problem, such as an overly restrictive fuel filter or a severe bend in the line that might cause a fuel delivery restriction. I've had crap like that show up only when the bike is hot and the line limbers up.

If it's none of that, the next best place to look is the pump. I doubt it's the carbs because crap will get in one bowl or the other and you get a crap running bike, not a starving bike. Try a Facet pump if the vacuum pump is not working out. They seem to work well. Works on my bike. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315948

My Facet. Two years on and going strong:


Best of luck.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:29 AM   #23
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Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I will work on it today. I do have an inline filter installed. I'll remove that first and check for any restricted or kinked fuel tubing. I'll then check the tanks, though last time I had it apart the tanks and tank screens were clear.

I will probably get a pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure just go get an idea. A on-board digital voltmeter is something I'll more than likely add, also.
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Must be part of your super-secret double-naught spy work with your low-level FEMA clearance and (snicker) Texas Security License, yes?
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:19 PM   #24
homerj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DakarNick View Post
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I will work on it today. I do have an inline filter installed. I'll remove that first and check for any restricted or kinked fuel tubing. I'll then check the tanks, though last time I had it apart the tanks and tank screens were clear.

I will probably get a pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure just go get an idea. A on-board digital voltmeter is something I'll more than likely add, also.
Nick, every time you cleaned the ignition switch this started acting normal? I had something similar happen to me and it came and went just like you're having. it ended up being the ignition switch.

Try this from the HOW:
cpmodem: In the case of a broken ignition switch, lost key, or broken switch wires, it is fairly simple to "hotwire" the 950 Adventure (2003-2006). In the fuse box inside the glove box, simply jumper the Acc1 fuse to the Ignition, Headlights, and Instruments fuses (right three). Make up the jumper ahead of time and keep it on the bike for emergencies. Use a minimum of 2mm (14 AWG) insulated wire for your jumper. Be sure to connect the right three first. Leave the fuses in place and your circuits will be protected as usual. There is no additional load on any wiring as the jumper simply replaces the ignition switch in the circuit. The branch circuits remain un-altered. Jumpering to the other side (bottom side) will leave the circuits unprotected and may cause smoke to escape from the wires.

I ended up putting a switch on the constant 12V supply so I could turn the bike off. The nice thing about this test is it's cheap, and takes about 20 min to put into place.

if you end up diagnosing the ignition switch as the culprit buy a new switch, separate the electricals from the key tumblers, and put the new electricals on the old key tumblers so you don't have to re-key the rear seat release.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #25
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Hi, Please also check gas caps for proper venting. They need to be able to suck air in. Have chased my tail on this before. Easy check is to open gas cap as it is happening and see if it clears up. Also listen for a Whoosh of air as it enters the tank(s).

Ducky
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:05 PM   #26
DakarNick OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky 149 View Post
Hi, Please also check gas caps for proper venting. They need to be able to suck air in. Have chased my tail on this before. Easy check is to open gas cap as it is happening and see if it clears up. Also listen for a Whoosh of air as it enters the tank(s).

Ducky
I did the flapendectomy on the caps.
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'12 Ram 2500, Cummins, 6-speed auto, Laramie Longhorn, RamBox
Must be part of your super-secret double-naught spy work with your low-level FEMA clearance and (snicker) Texas Security License, yes?
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:06 PM   #27
DakarNick OP
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Originally Posted by homerj View Post
Nick, every time you cleaned the ignition switch this started acting normal? I had something similar happen to me and it came and went just like you're having. it ended up being the ignition switch.

Try this from the HOW:
cpmodem: In the case of a broken ignition switch, lost key, or broken switch wires, it is fairly simple to "hotwire" the 950 Adventure (2003-2006). In the fuse box inside the glove box, simply jumper the Acc1 fuse to the Ignition, Headlights, and Instruments fuses (right three). Make up the jumper ahead of time and keep it on the bike for emergencies. Use a minimum of 2mm (14 AWG) insulated wire for your jumper. Be sure to connect the right three first. Leave the fuses in place and your circuits will be protected as usual. There is no additional load on any wiring as the jumper simply replaces the ignition switch in the circuit. The branch circuits remain un-altered. Jumpering to the other side (bottom side) will leave the circuits unprotected and may cause smoke to escape from the wires.

I ended up putting a switch on the constant 12V supply so I could turn the bike off. The nice thing about this test is it's cheap, and takes about 20 min to put into place.

if you end up diagnosing the ignition switch as the culprit buy a new switch, separate the electricals from the key tumblers, and put the new electricals on the old key tumblers so you don't have to re-key the rear seat release.
Awesome, Jack, thanks. I'll build a jumper and test it out. I put a WTB ad in the FM Parts forum for a new switch.
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