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Old 03-19-2013, 02:02 PM   #3406
fxstbiluigi
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That may not be easy to come by where he is.
About a year ago or so I was going to send 1 lb of tig wire to a guy in NZ.
The wire didn't cost me anything as it came from my former employer however the postage was well north of $50.00. I didn't send it.
E-309L is the preferred dis-similiar fill wire but E-308L will work.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:07 PM   #3407
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I would think with all the boat building on the North island, stainless filler should be abundant.

But then again I could be wrong. It seems to happen daily.
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:01 PM   #3408
clintnz
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Thanks Guys!

I work in the pulp & paper industry & they stick stainless onto carbon steel quite a bit so there's a good chance the rods for it will be available here, if not, or if they only come in big packs I'll see if I can bum a couple of lengths from one of the local workshops.

Cheers
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:37 PM   #3409
slackmeyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
Perhaps you could just buy a few pounds of 6013, 6011 or 7014. All are AC rod and for all position.

Baking the 7018 will dry it out but its still a DC rod.

If you have dirty metal, clean it.

David
Thanks.

I read somewhere that 7018 could be an AC or DC rod, but mine just says "7018", so it's probably made for DC like you say. I'll get a little starter kit of some of the 6 series rods.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:33 AM   #3410
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7018 will run on AC, but its aggravating. It sticks to the plate when starting especially with a buzz box. Not the best way to learn to stick weld. Good idea to use something easier until you get the hang of it. Then try the 7018.

Have fun and show us pictures of your welds.

David
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:51 AM   #3411
xcflyn
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Originally Posted by EvoLife View Post
ER309L is the general go-to for carbon to stainless IIRC
+1
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:36 AM   #3412
larryboy
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Originally Posted by slackmeyer View Post
Thanks.

I read somewhere that 7018 could be an AC or DC rod, but mine just says "7018", so it's probably made for DC like you say. I'll get a little starter kit of some of the 6 series rods.

I've got a couple boxes of 7018AC you can have. They're just collecting dust since I have a mig at home now.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:20 PM   #3413
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I've got a couple boxes of 7018AC you can have. They're just collecting dust since I have a mig at home now.
That would be most excellent for my screwing around with metal. I wish PG+E would get around to giving me 240v. . . .
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:56 AM   #3414
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That would be most excellent for my screwing around with metal. I wish PG+E would get around to giving me 240v. . . .

I'll put them in the trunk, stop by the dump Mon-Fri, 1300-2130 hours.
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:37 PM   #3415
clintnz
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So I called in at a local engineering business that does a big variety of stuff & asked for a few lengths of 309L, the bloke said 'Nah mate, what you need is some MG600' So for a couple bucks I walked out with some of that. It seemed to lay in nicely considering my n00b skill level.



The butt welds on the rest of the tube with normal ss rods were nowhere near as pretty. I think I need to set up a purge on the inside to improve those.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:56 PM   #3416
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Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
So I called in at a local engineering business that does a big variety of stuff & asked for a few lengths of 309L, the bloke said 'Nah mate, what you need is some MG600' So for a couple bucks I walked out with some of that. It seemed to lay in nicely considering my n00b skill level.



The butt welds on the rest of the tube with normal ss rods were nowhere near as pretty. I think I need to set up a purge on the inside to improve those.

Cheers
Clint
I think you are doing a fine job! Keep up the good work, Clint!
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:41 AM   #3417
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I think you are doing a fine job! Keep up the good work, Clint!
I agree with Kirk ! looks pretty darn good.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:48 PM   #3418
KTM640Dakar OP
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Originally Posted by slackmeyer View Post
Newb question here:
A friend was moving, and gave me an older Lincoln buzzbox (A-225S, I think the model is), and a big (open) box of 7018 electrode, probably open in a humid climate for the last 15-20 years. I think it works, though I'm still waiting for the local utility to give me a new service drop so I have 220v at my house.
Anyway, I've never stick welded before, though I've done a bit of some other types (mig and tig, and a fair amount of gas welding). This seems like a decent enough welder to play around on and make some functional stuff. If it doesn't work for me, I'll try to trade it for a mid size wire feed welder. My hope is that I can dry the welding rod just before I use it with a light bulb/ cardboard or wood box arrangement.
Any comments, either about the rod, the welder, or whether an old simple stick machine is a good all-purpose tool these days?
Hi Zak, some 7018AC rod has a little bit of potassium in it to help the arc when using an AC buzz box. It would be easier for you to maintain your arc with it.

The old rod probably has alot of mositure in the coating so if you see porosity in your welds it is from the hydrogen mixing into your liquid metal from the H2O.

You wont pass an x ray test but it would be ok to practice with.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #3419
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My water cooler rig is seized up on my tig welder. It's been sitting for lots of years unused. I've only used the thing to stick weld a couple times.

I'm not planning on doing any heavy work, so I don't think I need the water cooler. Apparently there is still water in the line because I could strike an arc.

I'm I in danger of screwing something up without the cooler/pump going?

Do I need to swap the torch and lines out with a dry one?


Also, FYI argon co2 mix does not work for Tig. Couldn't figure out why I was burning up tungsten
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #3420
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I'm not planning on doing any heavy work, so I don't think I need the water cooler. Apparently there is still water in the line because I could strike an arc.
You should be able to strike an arc; current doesn't care whether there's water or not.

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I'm I in danger of screwing something up without the cooler/pump going?
Yes, the leads are depending on water to keep from melting the liner. bbzzzzzttttt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Do I need to swap the torch and lines out with a dry one?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Also, FYI argon co2 mix does not work for Tig. Couldn't figure out why I was burning up tungsten.

Wasn't so funny at the time was it.

fwiw: My answers are for the TIG torch, not arc welding.
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