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Old 04-08-2013, 04:53 AM   #2101
kirkster70 OP
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Originally Posted by 9Dave View Post
The rebirth of the Spanco is closer to being done.

Today's project was to straighten out the bent base. Working off some ideas I had, and some suggestions from Keith Fenner over at Turnwright Machine Works I rigged up a "press" to do the straightening.

I used my open 6X10 trailer as a workbench. It's pretty stout and can easily handle the A frames sliding back and forth across the rails.



I laid the A frame across it on some 2X4's. Then I placed some I beam behind the base at the center post and diagonal brace, and added a piece of 4" tube behind that to squeeze the beam back into shape.



This was the press. 1/2" all thread and some slotted angle.


I left the all thread and the angle long since I will use it for something else later.

It fit on the frame like this with the frame straddling the point of the bend.


I double nutted the outer end of the all thread so I could tighten the rod against the inner nut and use my impact to do the initial tightening.

Then I tightened


It took a couple tries to bend the base straight again. I tightened it, backed it off, checked for straight, and then repeated a couple times until it was pretty straight.

Not perfect, but close enough.



Then I turned to mounting the casters. When I bought the replacement wheel, I also bought 4 swivel locks. They just mount on the base along with the mounting bolts. As luck would have it, the mounting holes in the base were an exact match for the casters. Some times it's better to be lucky than good! I had previously pumped the casters full of grease. There are three zerks on each one - one for the swivel, one in the wheel bearings, and the other between the axle and a bushing that the bearings ride on. I cleaned up the excess grease before setting the frame back down.



While I had the A frame laying across the trailer, I stood up the I beam and mounted it to the A frame to get a better sense of what I need to do to fabricate the mounting clips.





I just used washers to hold it up for a few minutes, then removed the beam and walked it over to the side. Walking a 8" X 11' beam standing vertically can be a thrill. Got to keep it vertical, or bad things can happen.

I set the one A frame down on the wheels and rolled it over to the I beam and tied it off. It rolls nicely on the wheels, and with the casters locked was really stable.

Then I mounted the casters on the other A frame and set everything off to the side and tied it off. As I was doing so, I noticed the one end of the base was tweaked where the caster mounted. This time, I just got the 5 lb sledge and gave it some love taps.



The next and final step is to fabricate the beam clips. I've taken measurements and have worked on a couple designs. If I only had a big 'ol Bridgeport mill, I know I could fab them easily. It will be a little more challenging with a grinder and other power tools, but I know I can get it done.

Then it's time to mount the beam and have a gantry
So you and Keith are BFFs now? He's a very smart guy!!!

You may find it easier to mount your beam before mounting your wheels. I kept coming across that when researching mine.

Looks like you're coming right along. Question - with your mega awesome building that I would go crazy inside of (building envy), couldn't you suspend an I-beam down the center length of the roof truss for a trolley and hoist? Or would the truss not support the additional load? Just thinking out loud. You've probably already considered it.
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:59 AM   #2102
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Originally Posted by Rhyno View Post
The welds are improving and looking nicer.

It's kind-of a combination of "Dirty Science" and "Art." Both are things that I have always enjoyed......:grin

Here's a link to another forum. I have and still use this more than I ever could have imagined.

It's not so big that you over-use charcoal. Yet big enough to feed 4-5 people, in one cooking session. The lid provides air control/temp. The internal size makes grill replacement as easy as a trip to a BigBox store.

Check it out.....

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=37555

-Rhyno
Very creative idea! Thanks, Rhyno! Cool sled, too!


Hmmm...got me thinking...I may make something that slides into my Truck's receiver hitch. That will be uber handy for camping duties!
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:04 AM   #2103
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Propane tanks are easy to find and a lot of people have used them for BBQs. I personally don't like them because of their size. Not only the diameter, but also the thickness. The thickness makes the whole thing rust out quickly because of acids and oxidations from the charcoal, but also their previous life.

If you decide to use one, make sure it is empty, and start to figure out some "Riggin."

It'll be tight, but the top valve unscrews. Wrap some motorcycle tie-downs around an unmovable corner post and the tank, with a few wraps. Make sure the corner post has some sort of stop to keep the whole thing from rotating. (Multiple wraps of the Tie-Down around the tank, by itself, will prevent the tank from spinning.) Find a wrench that fits the valve, and get a 5 foot cheater bar.

Once the valve is unscrewed, fill the tank with water. The water will purge all flammables. Fill it up with water, then pour it all out.... Now you are SAFE to cut and grind. (as long as your purging is happening in a different place from your cutting.)

A 5" grinder with a .065" Wafer wheel will cut a finer/smoother/better looking line than Plasma, Oxy/Acet torch, a Jig saw, or anything else. (Of course, lay it out with a straight edge and scribe.) Plus with a thinner cut, the pieces will line up to make a nicer lid/hinge joint.

Also, a round wheel sometimes is tough to do a square corner, so you might have to cut 99% and then finish the corners with a hand held jig saw. Once the pieces are apart, be light handed, but then dress the edges with a grinder.

Get some weld on barrel hinges. Don't get the ones with grease Zerks. Don't use grease, unless you want your burgers to taste like wheel bearings....:haha


Well that is probably enough.....(collar bones and neck are hurting)

Keep up the good work...

-Rhyno
Hey - you never did say - what did you get into to get all broken up? I hope you heal soon!


Hmmm...never thought about them rusting out quickly due to the metal being so thin, but that's something to consider. I'm just always brainstorming with all the junk I have amassed.

I'm getting ready to swap out our old 50gal water heater for a new 80gal one in the next week or two when it shows up. I'm also wanting to gut the old one to make a cool little burn pit for the deck. Always something!...
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:36 PM   #2104
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Hey - you never did say - what did you get into to get all broken up? I hope you heal soon!

.....
Thanks for the hope......

and PM sent.
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But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:56 PM   #2105
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
So you and Keith are BFFs now? He's a very smart guy!!!

You may find it easier to mount your beam before mounting your wheels. I kept coming across that when researching mine.

Looks like you're coming right along. Question - with your mega awesome building that I would go crazy inside of (building envy), couldn't you suspend an I-beam down the center length of the roof truss for a trolley and hoist? Or would the truss not support the additional load? Just thinking out loud. You've probably already considered it.
No, not BFF's - but the guy is so creative, I posted a comment on his YouTube page to see if he might have an idea I hadn't considered. He mentioned something about going at it from below. Then I occured to me that I had those two big pieces of I beam I bought at the same time as the Spanco, and I already had the 4" tube from another trip, and the rest just came together with the all thread and I already had the slotted angle from another project I disassembled. I did put two pieces together for additional strength.

Yeah, the building is nice. A buddy and I own it. It was one of those deals that was too good to pass up, especially since it is a couple doors down from my house. Amazing how we can fill it up with stuff.

I wouldn't be confident with the rafters supporting an overhead beam with a couple tons of load. They are about 12' on center. I wouldn't worry about suspending a couple hundred pounds from them, but that's about it. The reason I got the gantry is because I was about to hang a chain hoist from some chain off a truss, and then decided that would be a PITA every time I wanted to move it.

I have thought about taking the wheels back off before mounting the beam. But I've also thought using the chain hoist to lift beam, and just wheel the A frames underneath and attach them. I have a 20' chain with hooks on each end I could attach to the top of the beam and just lift it horizontally in one shot.

As you consider casters for your next project, I'd highly recommend the swivel locks. It's amazing how stable the A frames were on 6" wide wheels. I even unlocked one of them so I could steer the A frame around. Easy peasy.

I've been noodling on the beam clamps all day. I have found some online for $10 a piece, half what the Spanco distributor wanted. But I've also thought of some ways to fabricate them myself. Time to head down to the barn and do some more hands on prototyping.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:38 PM   #2106
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OK Kirk - so the Spanco should live again by the weekend.

I muscled the beam back down last night so I could some better measurements. Finally put the new machinist square to use.



About an 8 degree slope from the flange to the web. I found a great selection at LNA Solutions for Kee clamps. They have models for both sloped and parallel flanged beams. The ones I bought were $7 a piece.

I had a couple ideas on how to fab my own, but in the end, especially when dealing with a slope flanged beam, this will be the safer approach.

The clamps should be here tomorrow! Then the reassembly will be complete.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:39 PM   #2107
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Got my clips UPS today. $7 a piece, vs. $18+ from Spanco.



Hung the chain hoist from the rafters and lifted the I Beam


I did wrap another chain around the hook and chain on the beam and bolted it so the beam couldn't slide sideways.



Have to do a little more work, move the one leg to the end, torque the clamps, check for square, mount the trolley, lift the beam to give more clearance, and then it's ready to lift!

It started raining about halfway through, so I just backed the car inside, then drove out when I was done, and hit the button to shut the door. It's nice to have floorspace!
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:05 PM   #2108
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You're doing great, Dave!


So...what's the first big lift going to be? Do you have any heavy projects waiting on the gantry?
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:40 AM   #2109
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Tested....Approved

The quality and durability test of the skidplate and toolbox passed with flying colors!

120 miles of George Washington National Forest gravel and dirt...

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Old 04-12-2013, 06:33 AM   #2110
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Excellent! I'm glad it still lined up after all the heat that went into it! Good looking setup!


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The quality and durability test of the skidplate and toolbox passed with flying colors!

120 miles of George Washington National Forest gravel and dirt...

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Old 04-12-2013, 05:32 PM   #2111
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The quality and durability test of the skidplate and toolbox passed with flying colors!

120 miles of George Washington National Forest gravel and dirt...




Love the looks of the grey DR.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:36 PM   #2112
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Kirk,

Measurements for the GSA racks:



Note, though the rack is different front to back, to avoid hitting the exhaust, you should keep the cut-out at 2/34" down from the top, and 2 3/4" in from the inside.

Jim
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:18 PM   #2113
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
You're doing great, Dave!


So...what's the first big lift going to be? Do you have any heavy projects waiting on the gantry?
No huge lifts, though I did just decide that I am done taking the mower deck off to sharpen blades. Instead, I'll lift the whole thing up in the air and take the blades off from below. So I will need to fab up some couple foot tall "jack stands" for safety's sake while doing so.

May need to make a scrap yard run tomorrow. I would really like to have some fairly thin wall 1" to 2" tube to fab the supports from. I'm thinking just some fairly tall rectangles sized for the front and back wheels to fit snugly into. We'll see what transpires.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:28 PM   #2114
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Kirk,

Measurements for the GSA racks:



Note, though the rack is different front to back, to avoid hitting the exhaust, you should keep the cut-out at 2/34" down from the top, and 2 3/4" in from the inside.

Jim
You da' man, Jim! Where would I be without you?
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:29 PM   #2115
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No huge lifts, though I did just decide that I am done taking the mower deck off to sharpen blades. Instead, I'll lift the whole thing up in the air and take the blades off from below. So I will need to fab up some couple foot tall "jack stands" for safety's sake while doing so.

May need to make a scrap yard run tomorrow. I would really like to have some fairly thin wall 1" to 2" tube to fab the supports from. I'm thinking just some fairly tall rectangles sized for the front and back wheels to fit snugly into. We'll see what transpires.
That will make blade sharpening duties a fun job! Kewlio!
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