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Old 04-08-2013, 02:18 PM   #1
Bogfarth OP
MOTGATT on a Yamahog
 
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: The Northwet
Oddometer: 166
It's only two wires; you'd think it'd be easy

I tried the V-Star forum, but no one could help. I'm hoping someone here knows or is familiar with similar wiring behavior and can help me figure this thing out.

I added a set of idiot lights to a little box between my risers and, so far, it works great. The turn signal lights, high-beam light, headlight switch and switch for a set of aux light strips all work perfectly. The headlight switch interrupts the ground, not the hot. This does cause my high-beam idiot light to come on, but only when the headlight is off. Aside from this one quirk, everything works. I checked all my add-on lights for function: they all operate as intended both on and off the bike. The idiot lights on the speedo also work properly. The issue is, I can't get my neutral LED to come on when I'm actually in neutral. Yet the neutral light on the speedo works fine.

The wires under my speedo look like the pic at the bottom of page three in this PDF:
http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Do...50DiodeMod.pdf
The lights are, bottom to top: check engine, neutral, turn signal (red line pointing at it), high-beam (top edge, barely visible.)

Sorry, I couldn't find a V-Star 650 electrical diagram. The neutral light has a sky-blue wire running to it from the neutral switch on the engine case. The neutral light's brown wire joins in with the brown from the check engine light, and becomes a single wire going down to the plug. The brown wires are hot all the time. I know this because I can touch the LED's wire to the brass connector for the brown wire down at the harness plug, and the LED lights up. A blue wire connects to the speedometer's back-light via the same plug. Touching my LED wire to the blue wire's connector makes the LED light up, telling me the LED is wired properly. The wires at the harness plugs aren't covered or sealed, so by touching the LED's hot wire to the back of each connector I can find out which one is hot.

Now here's where things take a very odd turn. I tried the sea-foam green wire for the check engine light, and the sky-blue wire for the neutral light. Both wires only have power when their respective lights are OFF. When I'm in neutral, the sky-blue wire has ZERO power and yet the neutral light is lit. Put it in gear and the sky-blue wire becomes live, but the neutral light goes out. This is why my add-on LED works backwards when I wire it to the sky-blue neutral wire. The brown wire is hot all the time, even at the back of the light, so wiring to that would be pointless.

How can I get my add-on LED to light up when the speedo's neutral light does, given this behavior?
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:44 PM   #2
ericrat
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The brown wires are hot. The sky blue is the switched ground that goes to the neutral switch.

It only "looks" like there is power on the sky blue wire when you are NOT in neutral.
Code:
                                                          N. Switch
Battery + -------------------LightBulb--------------------/ ----------Ground
                                                       |
                                                       |
                                                   Test light here
In this test, you are simply testing in series with the light bulb. It isn't really a valid test.

I suspect the positive lead of the neutral switch LED need to go the the brown wire and the negative side to the sky blue wire. In paralell to the light bult.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:21 PM   #3
Warin
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Also check the LED polarity...
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:32 PM   #4
Beezer
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yes... in parallel....

when the neutral switch is open, power on the wire is available to go to a second source, in this case an LED... it lights because it doesn't need much current and the first bulb (LED?) isn't limiting flow.

when the switch is closed, that wire is now at ground potential all the way to the original bulb so in effect, you are connecting both ends of the LED to ground

as ericrat noted...
brown to the + end of the LED and take the minus side to the switch wire
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:11 PM   #5
Bogfarth OP
MOTGATT on a Yamahog
 
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: The Northwet
Oddometer: 166
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericrat View Post
The brown wires are hot. The sky blue is the switched ground that goes to the neutral switch.

It only "looks" like there is power on the sky blue wire when you are NOT in neutral.
Code:
                                                          N. Switch
Battery + -------------------LightBulb--------------------/ ----------Ground
                                                       |
                                                       |
                                                   Test light here
In this test, you are simply testing in series with the light bulb. It isn't really a valid test.

I suspect the positive lead of the neutral switch LED need to go the the brown wire and the negative side to the sky blue wire. In paralell to the light bult.

When in doubt, ask an inmate

It WORKS!!! A day of head-scratching fixed in less than an hour! Thank you, ericrat! Bonus points to Beezer!
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:43 AM   #6
ericrat
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Oddometer: 1,108
Alright!

26 minutes from posting to fix! Someone did the same for me a while back, as Linus says essentially, with enough eyeballs all faults are "shallow".
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