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Old 03-31-2013, 08:03 AM   #7741
IDRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shwafish View Post
I read all the info on his site which is why I tried adjusting it in the first place. I loosened it quite a bit and it did not seem to effect the sound and I am afraid to go to lose because I do not want the chain to slip.
I think you'd have to get quite lose to slip it. But that is certainly something you don't want to happen!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shwafish View Post
Is it possible that the chain has somehow bound and is holding tension itself and is no longer engaging the tensioner?

Thanks for all the help, I really have no idea what I am doing.
I really doubt it. And as Mark described, if you're doing finger tight on a cold bike, it really can't be too tight. The link below is my 351 build thread on another forum with lots of pics that may help you understand what's going on with the chain. I'm sure there's better out there, but this is what I have.

http://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/...351-0-a-36944/
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:25 PM   #7742
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So I decided to start from scratch on the tensioner and backed it way out and used the 17mm socket to turn the engine to set the initial tension. I then rode the bike up to full temp and readjusted. None of this seamed to have any effect on the noise. If it works I am linking to two videos of the bike making the noise. The first is cold after the initial adjustment and the second is after I got back from my ride.

http://youtu.be/t60Xmze7ScM

http://youtu.be/SRfB2rQ9QzQ

I also noticed while I was stopped fiddling with the tensioner with the bike keeling that the oil temp light came on. The fan was not running. It seems to me like if the bike thinks it is to hot it would turn the fan on. As soon as I started riding again the light event off.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:43 PM   #7743
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shwafish View Post
So I decided to start from scratch on the tensioner and backed it way out and used the 17mm socket to turn the engine to set the initial tension. I then rode the bike up to full temp and readjusted. None of this seamed to have any effect on the noise. If it works I am linking to two videos of the bike making the noise. The first is cold after the initial adjustment and the second is after I got back from my ride.

http://youtu.be/t60Xmze7ScM

http://youtu.be/SRfB2rQ9QzQ

I also noticed while I was stopped fiddling with the tensioner with the bike keeling that the oil temp light came on. The fan was not running. It seems to me like if the bike thinks it is to hot it would turn the fan on. As soon as I started riding again the light event off.
I see you have a skid plate on there. Take it off and see if the noise goes away. If it does, then it's either the skid plate amplifying/reflecting normal engine noise, or the skid plate itself resonating.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:00 PM   #7744
Shwafish
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Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
I see you have a skid plate on there. Take it off and see if the noise goes away. If it does, then it's either the skid plate amplifying/reflecting normal engine noise, or the skid plate itself resonating.
I will try that, if that is all it is I will be greatfull and annoyed at the same time.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:38 PM   #7745
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Good call CJ. Skid plates can do funny things like that. You may want to pick up a mechanic's stethoscope. Cheapo unit from Harbor Freight or similar works fine. They are great for listening to the motor and other parts to isolate those funny sounds. Even a long screwdriver works, but the stethoscopes are much easier to use IMO.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:08 AM   #7746
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Not only that but I get double duty out mine and hang it around my neck when I need to get past security and visit someone in the hospital after visiting hours. Works a charm!
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:52 AM   #7747
geniuskidzz
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sorry, need to ask something.
my sister use a KLX 150s. good for her, not fast enough for me. she only use it for commuting from home to college, but i will use it for some weekend ride ( 700-1500 km single trip, ) and homecoming day ( from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Thats about 700 km, twice for make it back to jakarta, and add 1500 km going around in Yogyakarta, Thats about 3000 km maybe)
im considering KLX 250s. the only mod i need is dakar fairing and new seats ( the comfortable one - i didnt really need the slim for offroad use in stock seat )

How much the power output from this bike ( im talking about the electrical power output)? will it hold 140 watt ?( thats a dual 55 watt phillip HID plus the other lamp like blinker, stop lamp, etc. Dont worry about safety, here in indonesia a projector retrofit cost me cheaper than the original phillip HID )

Will it cruise at 120 km/h? could it overtake at 140 km/h?
How about the range on stock tank?
does any big replacement tank available? will it do at last 400km on a single fillup?
How about the vibration?

my trip usually about 700-1500 km in single trip ( that means 1400-3000 km until i get back to my home) with mainly gravel, asphalt, and plot holes. Some mud play.
oh and i need to fit panniers on it. right now i use SHAD 48, with wingrack 2. Im planning a custom aluminium side pannier. Will the subframe hold? ( i could replace the wingrack for some lighter aluminium one).



do you have any other bike in mind with my preferences above?

im actually considering KTM 250 EXC-F or Husky TE-250R, but backed of because i need a low maintenance bike.


oh btw im indonesian, they didnt have that much bike choice in dual sport term in here

thx a lot for your response
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:12 AM   #7748
IDRIDR
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Originally Posted by geniuskidzz View Post
Will it cruise at 120 km/h? could it overtake at 140 km/h?
How about the range on stock tank?
does any big replacement tank available? will it do at last 400km on a single fillup?
How about the vibration?
Cruise at 120 kmh (75 mph) and overtake at 140 kmh (87 mph)? You're asking too much from this bike IMO. You may be able to cruise at 120, but will likely lose speed on a hill, and don't plan to do a lot of overtaking at 120 kmh.

Stock tank range about 160 to 180 km.

Clark and Acerbis make larger tanks. I have an Acerbis 3.7 gallon (14 l)

It's a 250. You'll get a little buzzing vibration at high speed, but it's not bad compared to a lot of others.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:33 PM   #7749
Jon
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Originally Posted by Shwafish View Post
I will try that, if that is all it is I will be greatfull and annoyed at the same time.
I installed a manual tensioner and skid plate on the same day and panicked at first too but knew it was probably just the skid plate. Removed it and the noise went away. Put it back on and the unnerving sounds returned and I no longer worry about it.

My once quiet BMW sounds like it has marbles in the engine with a skidplate.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:17 AM   #7750
geniuskidzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
Cruise at 120 kmh (75 mph) and overtake at 140 kmh (87 mph)? You're asking too much from this bike IMO. You may be able to cruise at 120, but will likely lose speed on a hill, and don't plan to do a lot of overtaking at 120 kmh.

Stock tank range about 160 to 180 km.

Clark and Acerbis make larger tanks. I have an Acerbis 3.7 gallon (14 l)

It's a 250. You'll get a little buzzing vibration at high speed, but it's not bad compared to a lot of others.
oh 120 means in long stretch.. here in indonesia, is a little bit hard doing 120 on hilly area. too many "things" crossing the road unannounced... people.. livestock.. 18 wheelers..
i will need +- 120 km/h to do long stretch in some parts of interstate road, thats a long straight stretch. Usually i ride at 90-100 though.

ok about that acerbis tanks, usually how far between fillups? i guess about 300-400 km?


im reading this thread backward, trying to find somebody who fit dakar style fairing on his/her klx
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:45 AM   #7751
Lutz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geniuskidzz View Post
...
ok about that acerbis tanks, usually how far between fillups? i guess about 300-400 km?
...
Keep in mind, if the KLX250S you're looking at is an EFI model, the aftermarket tanks have no provision for an internal fuel pump.

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Old 04-07-2013, 04:24 AM   #7752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
Cruise at 120 kmh (75 mph) and overtake at 140 kmh (87 mph)? You're asking too much from this bike IMO. You may be able to cruise at 120, but will likely lose speed on a hill, and don't plan to do a lot of overtaking at 120 kmh.

Stock tank range about 160 to 180 km.

Clark and Acerbis make larger tanks. I have an Acerbis 3.7 gallon (14 l)

It's a 250. You'll get a little buzzing vibration at high speed, but it's not bad compared to a lot of others.
I am with IDRIDR, you expect too much from this bike.

Fuelly

Kawasaki where's the 450? photo 2013-03-24_13-01-36_218.jpg
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #7753
rickypanecatyl
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Does anyone know if the KLX250 and KLX300 have the same size headstock?


As motorcycles are so expensive here and I often travel back and forth between the US and Malaysia I think I'm going to buy a KLX300 with a 351 kit to use as a parts bike for my 80,000 mile bike here in Malaysia.

The PO converted the front forks on his KLX300 to KX250 forks... a friend in California test drove the bike for me and bottom line it works great on the KLX300. So if I bring the triple clamps, forks, custom wheel spacers that make it work on the 300 should it fit just fine on my 250?
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:42 AM   #7754
mugwump
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Dirt Bagz frame modified for Baker Aux Tank

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...535082&page=18
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:49 PM   #7755
Lutz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
... So if I bring the triple clamps, forks, custom wheel spacers that make it work on the 300 should it fit just fine on my 250?
That setup should bolt to your frame just fine. However, the wheel/axle setup is where you need to be careful about having the right parts combination.
Do you know if the 300 is using the KLX wheel and KLX axle or custom axle, or a KX wheel and a KX axle? The KX wheel bearings and axle have a larger diameter than the KLX parts, so you can't mix and match those. If the 300 still has the factory trip meter, that's one dead giveaway that it's a KLX wheel; and your 250 wheel should also work (but note the odometer drive comments). If it's a KX wheel, you're going to need to bring the wheel back too, or else get a custom axle or axle adapters and spacers made to fit your KLX wheel.
One more thing to consider is the odometer drives. I can't remember what year your KLX250 is, but the '08 and newer (digital dash) odometer drive is somewhat different and does not swap with the '07 and older model wheels. I don't know if the width of the drive housings are the same, so if your 250 is an '08+ you may or may not need additional wheel spacer modifications.

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