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Old 03-28-2013, 08:27 AM   #46
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
It is a 1980 MX bike so will not be too fun for trail riding. It has large ports. They vibrate a lot and suck fuel like mad. They are sudden. Not exactly a good recipe for trails. The tank is not original. Probably came with a 2 gallon tank or so. Without a GS type cylinder and a lot of flywheel added & smaller carb it would be a handful. Likely why it was parked to begin with as much as needing a ring job. I would just make a crosser out of it as this is the cheaper way to go and follows the original intent of the bike anyway.
Have you ridden one? I raced and trailrode one for years,they are as smooth as could be desired.
And fast enough.
KTM sells 7 different thickness base gaskets to tune the engine for what you want to do with it. I dont know if those are still available but I detuned my 495 a little with thicker base gaskets.

I also had a 77.5 250 GP model for years,flattracked it,trail rode it,MX'd it,then scrambles raced it,then rode some enduros with the same bike.
It never broke and it won some races.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:25 AM   #47
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When I ordered the engine gasket kit, I did get the various thickness gaskets. I set up the height according to the engine manual for the 250, which called for 1.2 to 1.3 mm from the top ring land to top of cylinder. The manual warned that too short a distance would cause "pinking" which I take to mean running too hot and causing pre-ignition, and of course too high would lose compression and power, but I didn't know that there would be an acceptable range. So I set according to the spec.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:38 AM   #48
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When I ordered the engine gasket kit, I did get the various thickness gaskets. I set up the height according to the engine manual for the 250, which called for 1.2 to 1.3 mm from the top ring land to top of cylinder. The manual warned that too short a distance would cause "pinking" which I take to mean running too hot and causing pre-ignition, and of course too high would lose compression and power, but I didn't know that there would be an acceptable range. So I set according to the spec.
I think it varies on different KTM's,I had an 04 MXC250 and guys go as far as to use the piston/head from an SX model to get compression to where it should be,otherwise they are weak off the bottom rev zone.
Ive got an 09 XCW 200 now and guys run thinner base gaskets to get more low end out of them.
KTM has the X factor which is exactly where they want cylinder heidth set at.
Guys do experiment some and compression can be checked once its torqued down,160/170 psi would be good.

Id love to have a good running 1980 420MC,they are a sweet running smooth big bore.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:02 PM   #49
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Have the engine loosely mounted and I think the carb is mounted correctly. I know where the main fuel line connects to, but there is another nipple above the main inlet line I'm not sure what is needed for that. Does anyone have any detailed pictures they could email me for guidance on fuel line/throttle and cable routing for this machine. I checked that link provided from that site in Austria, there's a couple nice pictures but don't quite show enough detail of the carb and what I'm looking for...(pics to follow)
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:33 PM   #50
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I think my choice of paint is a little too much on the shiny, silver side of things, but its what I had on me when I reconditioned the front engine cover on my GS, so figured I'd use it here.



Its apparent that the large nipple would be the fuel inlet, but I don't know if/what is needed for the smaller nipple above it, plus the one on the other side...





And for routing the throttle/clutch cables, fuel lines, ignition leads would be where convenient...(?)
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:36 PM   #51
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If you spray the motor with clear coat it should take the "Mesican Chrome" look out of it.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:56 AM   #52
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Those little nipples are for over flow tubes that run down. I had a '82 model back in the day and raced it 3 or 4 years, great bikes. It was much like yours but the 1st year mono shock and had reeds, nice motor. Good old Bing carb with the tickler, messy but starts good.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #53
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So does that mean I simply connect some short tubing and route them down below the bike frame?
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:05 PM   #54
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Ok, moment of truth. Got all the basic stuff done, just a temporary securing of wires, exhaust, etc.



Slightly raining outside, kinda chilly, but whatever. Multiply the following pic by about 100, to get an idea of how long it took to get the bike to fire up...good thing I went to cycle-fit class this morning - got my legs conditioned to pumping a lever...




Hooray - it fires! Had to maintain some throttle to keep the engine running, obviously there's some carb issues to deal with. Our neighbour, Tim, came out - he's been playing with dirtbikes forever, gave me some assist.



I've got an oil leak from the clutch actuator cover - will have to drain some of the oil and apply some sealant to the gasket to fix this...



Quite the process. Fuel all over the engine, dripping out of the float bowl... took the carb off, removed the bowl and during discussion with neighbour discovered one the floats cracked, then came apart. Its been exposed for 10 years, after having been used since 1980, so figured its probably brittle and needed replacing anyway. Going to replace the little float needle as well. I noticed when I had the carb apart the first time, the jet needle was slightly bent - I tried to straighten it but still has a bit of curve to it - figure may as well replace that too.

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Old 04-13-2013, 08:18 PM   #55
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I've got an oil leak from the clutch actuator cover - will have to drain some of the oil and apply some sealant to the gasket to fix this...

Just lay the bike over and you wont have to drain it.
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:15 PM   #56
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Almost too afraid to do that too - I replaced the kick-start shaft seal and the shift lever shaft seal too, but didn't want to tempt them leaking. I ended up leaning the bike against a support post in my garage, then pulled the drain plug and let whatever amount of oil flow back into the ATF bottle for return to the crankcase when fixed.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:12 AM   #57
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Get used to fuel all over the place when you prime it with the tickler, run longer fuel lines from the vent tubes behind the motor to get the fuel to the ground.
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