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Old 03-24-2013, 06:28 AM   #76
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,094
Quote:
Originally Posted by waylongway View Post
Hey Greg !

have Any knowledge of the Agostini Competition Breather Box ? I got one from a guy at MG..I read some of your oil box testing in Guzziwild.
I've never played with one because I didn't think it would fit on the loop frames (I can't remember for certain on that). At the time, I did not have a Tonti frame. I think the main advantage of it is larger volume. The Bunn breather take a different approach altogether (I've not played with one of those, but I am interested in doing so, sometime).

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:13 PM   #77
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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The 24 hr rule....

....At work we always tried to balance keeping the boss informed with not panicking, so we would keep bad news "under investigation" for 24 hrs before sharing any detail. Lots of things fixed themselves or went away in that time.

Turns out I may have over-reacted about my little clutch issue. After consulting with Greg, I yanked off the rear tire just to see better, pulled out the inner and outer body and the thrust bearing that goes between, and I could find nothing wrong....concensus seems to be that I had something off center at first and when I pried on the operating lever, it centered itself with alacrity. Either the operating arm to the outer body (most likely, as it had not been adjusted), or mebbe the cup inside the pressure plate. At any rate, I've got it adjusted now so it feels like a clutch, it may not be perfect, but I suspect it'll work now.

I do need to ask some other question(s)....went to talk to a painter today, seems pretty confident, talked me out of lining it with POR15, saying he always nickel plates the inside gas tank... so when I got home, I looked at the tank with a little closer eye, I have three questions I'd like some help with....



This pix clearly shows paint being attacked by the fuel, I'm pretty sure this was a repaint, not factory original, but still...Should this area under the gas cap be painted, coated with something that seals the edge of the paint and is more impervious to gasoline, mebbe left unpainted? And does this tell me that I need a new gasket on the gas cap? I think I'd like to understand before I cart things off to the painter.

2nd que. How do I get out the little round clips that hold the Moto Guzzi emblem to the side of the tank? Do I just assume they're gonna be replaced and mangle then to get them out?

3rd. There was all sorts of what looked like clear RTV above and around the petcock threads. They were not leaking to my knowledge, but that surprised me a bit. I didn't even think RTV would seal for gasoline. So is there a preferred sealant to use on the petcock threads? I don't wanna see any leaks on a nice looking (and expensive) paint job. Thanks, roy
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:52 PM   #78
waylongway
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This is what I used on the Guzzi tank and my wifes honda...Seems to have worked fine?? Did the BB"s and CLR 2 times to clean the inside and I left the top of the gas cap part UN painted....I took the emblems off and went w/ the stickers under clear..New petcocks, no sealer..


My tank was BAD and needed a lot of work,Lucky for me my bro law is a body man


Hope this helps!
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:59 PM   #79
flemsmith OP
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Thanks...

Got any finished pix with the gas cap open?

roy
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:41 AM   #80
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
I do need to ask some other question(s)....went to talk to a painter today, seems pretty confident, talked me out of lining it with POR15, saying he always nickel plates the inside gas tank... so when I got home, I looked at the tank with a little closer eye, I have three questions I'd like some help with....

This pix clearly shows paint being attacked by the fuel, I'm pretty sure this was a repaint, not factory original, but still...Should this area under the gas cap be painted, coated with something that seals the edge of the paint and is more impervious to gasoline, mebbe left unpainted? And does this tell me that I need a new gasket on the gas cap? I think I'd like to understand before I cart things off to the painter.

2nd que. How do I get out the little round clips that hold the Moto Guzzi emblem to the side of the tank? Do I just assume they're gonna be replaced and mangle then to get them out?

3rd. There was all sorts of what looked like clear RTV above and around the petcock threads. They were not leaking to my knowledge, but that surprised me a bit. I didn't even think RTV would seal for gasoline. So is there a preferred sealant to use on the petcock threads? I don't wanna see any leaks on a nice looking (and expensive) paint job. Thanks, roy
Hi Roy,

The area where the gas cap seals should not be painted. Fuel will get under there and start bubbling up. Your painter should know where to mask for this. You may need a new gas cap gasket, but you do not want any place inside that tank to be able to wick fuel under the paint.

Electroplating the interior of the tank is a great way to go. Caswells and POR-15 have their place. But, if you can get the tank electroplated inside, that is a fantastic way to go.

Those emblems clips are a pain. If you don't have to remove them, don't. Just clean them up afterward and be done with it. The clips are tiny and I would not risk damaging them or where they fit just to remove them. If they fall out when you painter is working on things, oh well. Just replace with new, then. I had to "glue" one of my emblems on because the tiny clip would no longer stay in the tank.

You should not need any sealant on the petcock threads. Maybe some teflon plumbers tape, but that really should not be needed, either.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #81
waylongway
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Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
Got any finished pix with the gas cap open?

Roy
Here you go Roy,



And this is what it looks like under the clips ,like Greg said don't mess w/them if you can get away w/ it....

Fun stuff!!

Cheer's,Eric
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:25 PM   #82
flemsmith OP
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Thanks!

I know what I need to do now. So I'm off to the painter tomorrow, then we'll see what other little problems I can uncover.

roy
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:57 AM   #83
flemsmith OP
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Painter recommends....

....leaving the entire gas cap protrusion surface nickel plated and not painted...Painting only the outside tank surface that meets up with the gas cap assembly.

Alternative is to do what you did, Eric, paint all the way up to the gasket mating surface, and cover that interface with epoxy, he says he's always used JB Weld, although I have some Loctite epoxy that's more gas impervious, I might talk him into using that. Got a coupla weeks before he's at that stage to decide.

I guess another alternative would be to do what he says, then paint a thin layer of epoxy over the paint right under (at the intersection of) the tank surface and the cap assembly. decisions, decisions... roy
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:19 PM   #84
waylongway
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Making all the decisions is 1/2 the battle.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:21 PM   #85
flemsmith OP
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Long time w/ little progress....

Life stuff getting in the way. OK for me, but lousy fer the thread. Rebuilt both carbs, used 24 hr Pine Sol dip as first step. Usual extremely detailed step-by-step on Greg's site, This Old Tractor. Only issues in the rebuild were having to order insulating gaskets for the intakes, and the bolts that hold them, also the carb inlet fuel filter is not part of the rebuild kit. But on the right carb, the previous owner or mechanic had driven the float pivot rod so far into the body of the carb that I can't get it out without tearing up the floats and probably the rod. Will check and see if I can order the rod, and if so, will probably get a set of floats just for standby. Meanwhile, on that carb, I just cleaned around the float needle, hoping for the best.



The right carb fit fairly well, gonna hafta relocate the battery tender lead, and mebbe tie the Bunn breather hose a little different, also need to look for good example of the throttle cable routing..



The left carb won't fit without some re-routing, both the positive and negative battery cables need to move, not a big deal me thinks, just need to yank the battery first. The intake venturi tubes do fit inside the K&N's, just needed a little bit of heat gun to get the rubber a bit more compliant. I'm a little surprised that I don't need some sort of sealant between the intake manifolds and the carb body, fits really tight, but it's just metal to metal, seems like it could give me an air leak.

roy
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:17 AM   #86
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
Life stuff getting in the way. OK for me, but lousy fer the thread. Rebuilt both carbs, used 24 hr Pine Sol dip as first step. Usual extremely detailed step-by-step on Greg's site, This Old Tractor. Only issues in the rebuild were having to order insulating gaskets for the intakes, and the bolts that hold them, also the carb inlet fuel filter is not part of the rebuild kit. But on the right carb, the previous owner or mechanic had driven the float pivot rod so far into the body of the carb that I can't get it out without tearing up the floats and probably the rod. Will check and see if I can order the rod, and if so, will probably get a set of floats just for standby. Meanwhile, on that carb, I just cleaned around the float needle, hoping for the best.



The right carb fit fairly well, gonna hafta relocate the battery tender lead, and mebbe tie the Bunn breather hose a little different, also need to look for good example of the throttle cable routing..



The left carb won't fit without some re-routing, both the positive and negative battery cables need to move, not a big deal me thinks, just need to yank the battery first. The intake venturi tubes do fit inside the K&N's, just needed a little bit of heat gun to get the rubber a bit more compliant. I'm a little surprised that I don't need some sort of sealant between the intake manifolds and the carb body, fits really tight, but it's just metal to metal, seems like it could give me an air leak.

roy
Hi Roy,

Those float pivot pins can be a bear. Some people tend to think then need to be driven into place. I just lightly set mine in there...it isn't like they can back out or go anywhere once the float bowl is in place. With the really tough ones, sometimes I can use a side cutter to get a better grab on them.

In your photos, you have the throttle cables on backwards. The end showing (with the metal elbow) fits to the throttle. The other end of the cable should just be the black cable with the little end cap on it. That is what fits into the adjuster on top of your carburetor.

As for routing, I bring them both straight up and a bit forward such that the cables are routed between the frame and the tank. The left one I route over to the right side under the top frame backbone. I leave both cables loose. I do use a *very loose* cable tie to keep them running together toward the right front of the tank (where they exit between the frame and the tank.

Your transmission vent (behind the starter) should not run straight down. Yes, I know it makes sense to run it like that, but it will puke oil like crazy when you run it straight down. Instead, route it straight up as high as you can. Then, you can either run it as far forward as you like or as far rearward as you like. When it is routed like this, it functions a bit like an engine breather and you will not have trouble with gear oil puking out of the vent hose (as it will all run back into the transmission).

Your battery ground cable will work great where you have it grounded (no worries). Originally, it would have been routed to the right side of the battery tray and secured to the bolt that goes through the right "ear" on the battery tray. Again, there is no need to change it around unless you want to.

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:03 PM   #87
flemsmith OP
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Thanks, Greg!

Exactly the kind of input I was looking for. Not sure I can even grab the end of the float rod with side cutters, but I'm not too worried, worst case I can buy a new one with new floats and cut this one off with my dremel tool. The other inputs are quite helpful, will advise when I get some free time to actually correct them. It all appears quite do-able.

roy
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:58 PM   #88
waylongway
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Here you go Roy!

I like this site better for carb parts ,you can see what you are getting

http://www.bevelheaven.com/stuff-for-sale-dellorto.htm
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:05 PM   #89
flemsmith OP
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Been gone awhile....

Cyndi and I just got back from a trip to the north coast of Oregon and then down to Calif as far as Crescent City. We've always loved the redwoods, and coming from Az, it's always nice to go see the ocean.





I didn't ride the whole way, but for some of the nicer stretches, Cyndi drove the Van with the dogs and I got to ride. Otherwise, we used the bike for local sightseeing. At any rate, I have done nothing on the T3 for a good month now, just finished ordering some parts that will take another week or so, but I did get a call from the painter today, should be able to pick up the tank and side covers in a coupla days. That should be exciting (at least for an old guy). Will do a few pix then. Meanwhile, lotsa other stuff getting in the way for a few weeks yet. sorry. roy
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:57 PM   #90
flemsmith OP
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New paint!!!

Always exciting to get newly painted pieces...I may take a while getting used to this, it came out a little gaudier than I expected/remembered.
It's Harley Black Cherry, which is what my little brother has on his Road King. His looks black in the shade, and sorta red/maroonish in the sun. Since I haven't seem his bike since he moved to Fla a few years ago, I was thinking it was a bit more subtle than this.



Here's a pix not in the direct sunlight, not as black as I was expecting.





And with the sidecovers in the Az sunlight...



Well, it did come out flawless, and in the garage it looks a good bit closer to black. And the sidebags are staying black....I'm thinking it'll grow on me, and I'm sure there won't be any others like it. Now I just need to make sure I can get the cap back on the tank without scratching anything. I do like the Nickel plating inside the tank and around the gas cap sealing surface. I couldn't have done as good a job with POR 15. Waiting for some little parts for the petcocks before I can really get it ready to mount. And new throttle cables to correct the reverse ones that Greg pointed out.
More when I do more...summers getting here and my normal work day of two hours gets cut down in the summer....roy
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