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Old 04-05-2013, 06:49 AM   #4576
GR0NK
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To remove (and reinstall) the head you'll need a new rivet link for the cam chain, a new head gasket, a new water pump gasket and some Gasket maker. I have done it without a cam chain rivet tool but trust me it's so much easier with one. I have the Motion Pro kit.
If you are going to separate the cylinder from the transmission cases, you will likely need a base gasket as well since they don't always come off properly. A new head gasket is recommended but I found that it can be reused if you are in a pinch and it came off properly. Sometimes it will delaminate and leave half on each surface and if that happens it should not be reused.
For the gasket between the head and the rocker cover, I use Motoseal by Permatex.



It's similar to Yamabond and made specifically for those applications.



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Old 04-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #4577
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GR0NK View Post
I have the Motion Pro kit.
I have that kit also. Oddly Motion Pro says that you shouldn't use it on the KTM cam chain. I guess someone didn't do their chain properly and sued them Supposedly end result of using the OEM/KTM tool is indistinguishable from the rest of the pins on the chain but the Motion Pro ovals them out (pic here: http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...post&p=3769968). I've seen posts from CAFlash saying to only use the Motion Pro to remove.

I always figured I'd use the Motion Pro but I guess I now have this slight "noone ever got fired for buying IBM" nagging thought in the back of my mind.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:17 AM   #4578
GR0NK
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
I have that kit also. Oddly Motion Pro says that you shouldn't use it on the KTM cam chain. I guess someone didn't do their chain properly and sued them Supposedly end result of using the OEM/KTM tool is indistinguishable from the rest of the pins on the chain but the Motion Pro ovals them out (pic here: http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...post&p=3769968). I've seen posts from CAFlash saying to only use the Motion Pro to remove.

I always figured I'd use the Motion Pro but I guess I now have this slight "noone ever got fired for buying IBM" nagging thought in the back of my mind.
LOL. I grind one side of the pins I want to remove with a dremel and use the right adapter to push it out. I broke two adapters trying to push the pins out without grinding before I realized it wasn't going to be very cost effective.

I think the problem with the tool is that there is a risk of overtightening on the new chain rivet and warping the link if you're not careful. Doesn't require much torque for a KTM cam chain.



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Old 04-05-2013, 11:31 AM   #4579
crazybrit
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I broke two adapters trying to push the pins out without grinding before I realized it wasn't going to be very cost effective.
yeah, that seems a common complaint (small pin breaks) in the various reviews

Quote:
I think the problem with the tool is that there is a risk of overtightening on the new chain rivet and warping the link if you're not careful.
Does the KTM tool prevent overtightening?

For a shade tree like myself there seems that unsettling fine line between tightening too much and binding a link and not tightening enough and having it come apart. I guess buy a couple of replacement links and sacrifice the first to an experiment in determining how tight before it starts binding.

Anyhow, thanks for the info. Appreciated.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:10 PM   #4580
GR0NK
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post

Does the KTM tool prevent overtightening?

For a shade tree like myself there seems that unsettling fine line between tightening too much and binding a link and not tightening enough and having it come apart. I guess buy a couple of replacement links and sacrifice the first to an experiment in determining how tight before it starts binding.

Anyhow, thanks for the info. Appreciated.
I never used the KTM tool so I really don't know. The reason I bought the MotionPro kit is because I also like to stake my drive chains and this one does that as well as the cam chains.

I wouldn't worry too much about it. I haven't ever had a link come apart in any of my bikes. My 525 has a lot of miles and my race bikes get bounced off the limiter often enough. Hell I had loaned my riveting tool to a friend once and ended up using two hammers to rivet the cam chain link! Hasn't let go yet!



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Old 04-05-2013, 04:23 PM   #4581
yondering
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I have the Motion Pro tool also, except it cost half that much and is in a red box, got it from RockyMountainatv.

My experience is that a link swaged with the Motion Pro tool is harder to remove than the KTM version; meaning the link is swaged in place at least as good, or better than, OEM. It's relatively easy to use, just don't go so far that the link binds up.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:10 PM   #4582
dave186
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That grey gasket maker will do the job, and I have used it myself but this stuff is better.




You should be able to find it at any auto parts store, the permatex version looks just like it and has a similar part number.

The advantage of the anaerobic sealant is it doesnt plug up your oil passages.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #4583
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
yeah, that seems a common complaint (small pin breaks) in the various reviews


Does the KTM tool prevent overtightening?

For a shade tree like myself there seems that unsettling fine line between tightening too much and binding a link and not tightening enough and having it come apart. I guess buy a couple of replacement links and sacrifice the first to an experiment in determining how tight before it starts binding.

Anyhow, thanks for the info. Appreciated.
When you grind off the flared ends of the old cc masterlink, grind into the plate a bit, that will remove most of the interference and allow it to be removed w/o a tool. All you'll need is a small punch to drive the plate off the pins. It's actually pretty easy. When it comes to restaking the new link comon sense prevails, don't crank it down super tight, it's not needed. I've seen guys put cutup strips of .003 feeler guage between the plate and the links it's pressing down on to provide clearance when staking, I've always just crimped them (slowly) removing the tool a couple times to check the progress and to ensure it wasn't binding the chain.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:28 AM   #4584
espressodrinker
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Grinding the pin off

How do you stop the bits of grinding dust from going into the engine?
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:29 PM   #4585
GR0NK
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How do you stop the bits of grinding dust from going into the engine?
I use a dremel with a cut-off disc. It already minimizes the amount of dust but I stuff a big rag around the cam gear to catch whatever does come off.


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Old 04-10-2013, 11:55 PM   #4586
selaznog
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Is anyone running the Acerbis 6.6 tank on a 2004 525 exc? I'm selling mine, and a potential buyer is trying to see if it will work on his 2004. The Just Gas Tanks site says it will work on a 2005 SX. I had always thought they fit all the rfs bikes. Anyway, thoughts from a 2004 owner would be appreciated.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:05 AM   #4587
GR0NK
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Is anyone running the Acerbis 6.6 tank on a 2004 525 exc? I'm selling mine, and a potential buyer is trying to see if it will work on his 2004. The Just Gas Tanks site says it will work on a 2005 SX. I had always thought they fit all the rfs bikes. Anyway, thoughts from a 2004 owner would be appreciated.
The tanks are interchangeable on RFS models 2000 to 2007.



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Old 04-11-2013, 03:14 AM   #4588
espressodrinker
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The tanks are interchangeable on RFS models 2000 to 2007.



Sean
It fits fine on my '06 525 EXC.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:34 AM   #4589
SHOREBILL
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2007 525 xc

I do not know if this applies to an 04, but the xc and sx came with a different seat (more pronouced angle at the nose) which will not mate up with the 6.6 acebris. It will barely mate to 3.5? gal acebris. Any stock xcw exc seat will work.

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Old 04-17-2013, 08:41 PM   #4590
MKJ
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Has anyone done any head upgrades to their 525? I just did, and replace the top end. Strong, but popping and snorting. Jetting issues, possibly?
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