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Old 04-18-2013, 10:03 AM   #75931
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
Thanks for all of the pointers. The float bowl o rings were faulty and flooding the plugs. We weren't able to source the proper size o rings, so we ended up sanding some down to get me to the destination. The bike is in a gated community with a friend of mines family. As of now, when I fly back I will bring new o rings, a larger tank, a new choke (mine broke), new pinch bolts. The rest of the items you mentioned, I already had with me and are stored on the bike. Oh....and I won't be bringing the bike back...its going to South America after Panama....and then hopefully to Africa and beyond

I got back in from the trip 4/17/13 Wednesday morning at 2:00am. Once I am able to decompress for a bit, be looking for a rider report. There is a lot to tell about this leg of the journey!
Awesome! You're a very lucky guy! Sounds like you've thought all this through well. Good you caught the O rings. Should be an awesome ride. I lived in Guat. for two years. Lots to explore there. Have fun!
Are you flying the Gap or ... Stahlratte? or ... ?
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:18 AM   #75932
MEWanderer
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Location: Tucson
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Shipping?

Does anyone have any first hand experience with motorcycle shipping companys? I need to get my DR back to Maine from AZ the middle of next month. Wish I had time to do a cross country trip, but my schedule is not going to allow it. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:36 PM   #75933
DockingPilot
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Originally Posted by MEWanderer View Post
Does anyone have any first hand experience with motorcycle shipping companys? I need to get my DR back to Maine from AZ the middle of next month. Wish I had time to do a cross country trip, but my schedule is not going to allow it. Thanks in advance.
Federal.
1st class operation. Your bike will be there as you saw it last. And they pick and drop at your door. Get the AMA discount.
I have used them many times.


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Old 04-18-2013, 12:52 PM   #75934
phreakingeek
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After searching around a while trying to find a replacement stud, I found it on mcmaster-carr.com. They sell a full assortment of metric stainless studs in a number of different lengths.

If memory serves, you need M6x40 1mm pitch...i got the 18-8 since i doubt i need the added corrosion protection of the 316 (and it's about $7 more per stud!)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3149/=mdmmna



Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
I know I don't show my face around here much, but that's about to change. I live in Alabama and run around with a member here they call Swamp....

Anyways I have a 1997 DR 650 out in California at my brothers. I had him drop it off at the local shop to do some service work before my recent trip to Mexico on it last week. I do all of my own service work here in Alabama, but I have no choice. Big mistake...

So the bike left me stranded due to carburetor issues that should have been fixed by the shop, and I also noticed a broken pinch bolt on the front forks....how genuine of them. According to the parts fiche, this stud is not replaceable. Does anyone here know if that is true?

I left the bike in Mexico, and plan to go back and pick it up in July to continue towards Panama. I am making a list of parts that I need to have shipped to Mexico in order to prep for the next leg of the journey.

Oh, and here's a photo from the beginning of the 2600 mile trek that I completed in 7 days, haha!!!

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Old 04-18-2013, 01:57 PM   #75935
refokus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
yep, i've got enough room to get on the broken stud with a pair of vice grips. I'll check ace locally for the stud. Thanks for the tip. Btw, what year is your dr? I am curious to know if the fork design would happen to be the same. If i know the year, i could cross the entire fork leg on a parts fiche. Like i said, unfortunately the bike is not with me and is sitting in mexico waiting for my return. I have no way of physically checking to make sure it will in fact thread out.
2005
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #75936
mill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Do you mean the needle seat o-ring?Was there a significant time constraint?Is your DR650 equipped with a BST40 carburetor?

Regards,

Derek
No, the orings that seal the float to the carb body were dried out and cracked.

Significant time restraints. The plan was to leave Los Angeles, CA Saturday morning, ride the entire Baja, hop the ferry overnight to Mazatlan, ride down the coast to Colima, and then circle back up to the MX-15. The goal was to be in Puebla the very next Friday or Saturday (one week). I was suppose to fly home Sunday to be back at work that Monday morning....didn't happen

Yep, my DR650 is utilizing the the stock BST40.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:55 PM   #75937
Otis357
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rear sprocket

Changing out the sprockets and chain on my 04 DR. Manual says to torque the mounting nuts to 19.5 lb-ft. It says nothing about using Loctite, but it sure seemed like there was some on there when I hear it pop on loosening the bolts. Wondering if a little dab of loctite on there is a good idea?

Also, the rubber absorbers in the rear wheel are not broken or cracked, but are pretty hard. Should I bother replacing these or should they be OK?
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:26 PM   #75938
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis357 View Post
Changing out the sprockets and chain on my 04 DR. Manual says to torque the mounting nuts to 19.5 lb-ft. It says nothing about using Loctite, but it sure seemed like there was some on there when I hear it pop on loosening the bolts. Wondering if a little dab of loctite on there is a good idea?

Also, the rubber absorbers in the rear wheel are not broken or cracked, but are pretty hard. Should I bother replacing these or should they be OK?
The bolts in question have loc tite on them from the factory. Suzuki recommend using NEW bolts ... but, IMO, you do not need to. I would use a dab of BLUE loc tite on them however. I've re-used the same nut/ bolts on 3 rear sprocket changes now.

How old are your rubber dampers? If more than 3 years/20K miles I would change them out. You WILL feel the difference.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:56 PM   #75939
spotlight
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Location: Maryville Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
The bolts in question have loc tite on them from the factory. Suzuki recommend using NEW bolts ... but, IMO, you do not need to. I would use a dab of BLUE loc tite on them however. I've re-used the same nut/ bolts on 3 rear sprocket changes now.

How old are your rubber dampers? If more than 3 years/20K miles I would change them out. You WILL feel the difference.
I would change the bushings and the bolts and if you have a castle-nut with a cotter pin I'd order the self torquing one from pro cycle makes chain adjustment a snap....be sure not to over tighten the chain....check it under load, And if you haven't removed the upper chain roller now is a good time to do so just find a bolt that fits back in the hole.

spotlight screwed with this post 04-18-2013 at 06:57 PM Reason: added some info
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:09 PM   #75940
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I would change the bushings and the bolts and if you have a castle-nut with a cotter pin I'd order the self torquing one from pro cycle....
You mean self-locking. Self-torquing would be quite a trick.

And I like this better than the self-locking nut, or the cotter pin on a castle nut.

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Old 04-18-2013, 07:39 PM   #75941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
You mean self-locking. Self-torquing would be quite a trick.

And I like this better than the self-locking nut, or the cotter pin on a castle nut.

Yeah self locking....too many beers and hmm I like the look of that not going anywhere for sure.....but I'm gonna have to say neither is that self torquing nut....HA
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:40 PM   #75942
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
No, the orings that seal the float to the carb body were dried out and cracked.
The only o-ring on a BST40 carburetor that can cause overflowing when it fails is the float needle seat o-ring.
Quote:
Significant time restraints.
Perhaps this might help next time: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.
Quote:
Yep, my DR650 is utilizing the the stock BST40.
BST40 carbs have cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:40 PM   #75943
spotlight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
Yeah self locking....too many beers and hmm I like the look of that not going anywhere for sure.....but I'm gonna have to say neither is that self torquing nut....HA
I like it but I just looked my 2013 don't have the cotter pin hole...
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:53 PM   #75944
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
If you have a castle-nut with a cotter pin I'd order the self torquing one from pro cycle makes chain adjustment a snap....
I replaced my old castle nut with a self-locking nut and I hated it. The darn thing tried to cut the threads off the end of my axle. I used it twice and went back to the castle nut. I've been using this and it works pretty well (sprung snug, doesn't vibrate). But I like Emmbeedee's idea even better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
be sure not to over tighten the chain....check it under load, And if you haven't removed the upper chain roller now is a good time to do so just find a bolt that fits back in the hole.
Although I've had the DR for 'awhile', I don't like to check my chain tension as described in the manual. I frequently stand on the right side of the bike, lie over the seat (like a deer on the fender), grab the axle/swingarm with my left hand, pull my weight down on the seat, and check the chain tension with my right hand. Do NOT pull the bike over and pin yourself to the garage floor: your wife will NOT be happy. There should be a noticeable free play, NOT snug (but not the 1.2-1.8" in the manual, because that's for an unloaded check).

About the upper chain roller, yes remove it; but I don't recommend using a bolt to plug the 'now empty' hole. Here's a pic of where my chain was hitting the bolt that I used to plug the hole.


Sooooo, use a set-screw, available at the nearest Home Depot (8x1.25mm). Look closely and you'll see the blue Loctite that I used to keep it there.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:58 PM   #75945
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
.BST40 carbs have cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
I do believe Mill understands what the enricher circuit (choke) does. Read his post ... he said he "broke" the choke. If you had ever worked on a DR then you'd know how flaky the plastic enricher unit is. It uses a plastic fitting that threads into Carb. Easy to screw it up. This is why many swap from cable system to manual system.
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