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Old 04-18-2013, 07:39 PM   #75916
spotlight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
You mean self-locking. Self-torquing would be quite a trick.

And I like this better than the self-locking nut, or the cotter pin on a castle nut.

Yeah self locking....too many beers and hmm I like the look of that not going anywhere for sure.....but I'm gonna have to say neither is that self torquing nut....HA
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:40 PM   #75917
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
No, the orings that seal the float to the carb body were dried out and cracked.
The only o-ring on a BST40 carburetor that can cause overflowing when it fails is the float needle seat o-ring.
Quote:
Significant time restraints.
Perhaps this might help next time: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.
Quote:
Yep, my DR650 is utilizing the the stock BST40.
BST40 carbs have cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:40 PM   #75918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
Yeah self locking....too many beers and hmm I like the look of that not going anywhere for sure.....but I'm gonna have to say neither is that self torquing nut....HA
I like it but I just looked my 2013 don't have the cotter pin hole...
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:53 PM   #75919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
If you have a castle-nut with a cotter pin I'd order the self torquing one from pro cycle makes chain adjustment a snap....
I replaced my old castle nut with a self-locking nut and I hated it. The darn thing tried to cut the threads off the end of my axle. I used it twice and went back to the castle nut. I've been using this and it works pretty well (sprung snug, doesn't vibrate). But I like Emmbeedee's idea even better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
be sure not to over tighten the chain....check it under load, And if you haven't removed the upper chain roller now is a good time to do so just find a bolt that fits back in the hole.
Although I've had the DR for 'awhile', I don't like to check my chain tension as described in the manual. I frequently stand on the right side of the bike, lie over the seat (like a deer on the fender), grab the axle/swingarm with my left hand, pull my weight down on the seat, and check the chain tension with my right hand. Do NOT pull the bike over and pin yourself to the garage floor: your wife will NOT be happy. There should be a noticeable free play, NOT snug (but not the 1.2-1.8" in the manual, because that's for an unloaded check).

About the upper chain roller, yes remove it; but I don't recommend using a bolt to plug the 'now empty' hole. Here's a pic of where my chain was hitting the bolt that I used to plug the hole.


Sooooo, use a set-screw, available at the nearest Home Depot (8x1.25mm). Look closely and you'll see the blue Loctite that I used to keep it there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-18-2013 at 08:02 PM
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:58 PM   #75920
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
.BST40 carbs have cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
I do believe Mill understands what the enricher circuit (choke) does. Read his post ... he said he "broke" the choke. If you had ever worked on a DR then you'd know how flaky the plastic enricher unit is. It uses a plastic fitting that threads into Carb. Easy to screw it up. This is why many swap from cable system to manual system.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:06 PM   #75921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I would change the bushings and the bolts and if you have a castle-nut with a cotter pin I'd order the self torquing one from pro cycle makes chain adjustment a snap....be sure not to over tighten the chain....check it under load, And if you haven't removed the upper chain roller now is a good time to do so just find a bolt that fits back in the hole.
Why would you change the bolts? If the threads show no damage I believe they should be re-usable ... with loc-tite of course. The stock nyloc nuts may not be 100% ... but with loc-tite should hold fast and be safe.

Self torquing axle nuts are garbage and may damage your axle threads. Old news. Stay with the quality, made in Japan, Suzuki Castle nut. It works.

I use the same exact system shown below. All good the last 30K miles its been on there. I almost NEVER need to adjust my chain ... as I use the best.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I replaced my old castle nut with a self-locking nut and I hated it. The darn thing tried to cut the threads off the end of my axle. I used it twice and went back to the castle nut. I've been using this and it works pretty well (sprung snug, doesn't vibrate). But I like Emmbeedee's idea even better.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:21 PM   #75922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Read his post ... he said he "broke" the choke.
It's kind of difficult to break something that doesn't exist.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:33 PM   #75923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The only o-ring on a BST40 carburetor that can cause overflowing when it fails is the float needle seat o-ring.
So if the oring that holds the float up tight to the body fails, this couldn't cause overflow???? In my method of thinking, if the float wasn't tight in it's positioning and fell down loose inside the bowl, the needle (which is attached to the float) would not be positioned in it's proper location and would not seat, hence causing the overflow.

Regardless....all I know is that I was broken down in MX due to a problem that I payed a shop to address, and they didn't. I replaced the dried out orings McGuyver style, and was able to complete the next 900 miles of my journey and made it to my destination.

And yes...I will be interested in one of your rebuild kits and "fuel enrichment" plungers to take with me upon my return in July. I will be sending you an email soon. Thank you for your condescending "tone"

Regards

Dick
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:47 PM   #75924
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Not sure if my post went through on my smart phone.....I would assume JB weld in the hole would serve the same purpose......and tomorrow I plan to remove that locking nut and see if the axle has a cotter pin hole....bit it seems to work fine maybe they changed something on the 13.....no clue....thanks for the tips and pics
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:56 PM   #75925
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
So if the oring that holds the float up tight to the body fails, this couldn't cause overflow???? In my method of thinking, if the float wasn't tight in it's positioning and fell down loose inside the bowl, the needle (which is attached to the float) would not be positioned in it's proper location and would not seat, hence causing the overflow.
The needle seat o-ring and the cold start enrichment feed pipe o-ring sort of hold the float cage in place when the bowl is off. When the bowl is installed, there are three plastic tabs attached to the cage that hold it more securely in place by being sandwiched between the main carburetor body and float bowl.
Quote:
And yes...I will be interested in one of your rebuild kits and "fuel enrichment" plungers to take with me upon my return in July. I will be sending you an email soon.
Sounds good. Whenever you are ready.
Quote:
Thank you for your condescending "tone"
I try to stick to the point. I don't mean to offend.

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 04-18-2013 at 09:25 PM
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:00 PM   #75926
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mill View Post
So if the oring that holds the float up tight to the body fails, this couldn't cause overflow???? In my method of thinking, if the float wasn't tight in it's positioning and fell down loose inside the bowl, the needle (which is attached to the float) would not be positioned in it's proper location and would not seat, hence causing the overflow.

Regardless....all I know is that I was broken down in MX due to a problem that I payed a shop to address, and they didn't. I replaced the dried out orings McGuyver style, and was able to complete the next 900 miles of my journey and made it to my destination.

And yes...I will be interested in one of your rebuild kits and "fuel enrichment" plungers to take with me upon my return in July. I will be sending you an email soon. Thank you for your condescending "tone"

Regards

Dick
Although condescending at times, Derek is only attempting to be accurate, very accurate. Once you understand that, he makes complete sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
Not sure if my post went through on my smart phone.....I would assume JB weld in the hole would serve the same purpose......and tomorrow I plan to remove that locking nut and see if the axle has a cotter pin hole....but it seems to work fine maybe they changed something on the 13.....no clue....thanks for the tips and pics
JB weld in what hole?

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The needle seat o-ring and the cold start enrichment feed pipe o-ring sort of hold the float cage in place when the bowl is off. When the bowl is installed, there are three plastic tabs attached to the cage that hold it more securely in place by being sandwiched between the main carburetor body and float bowl. Sounds good. Whenever you are ready. I tend to stick to the point. I don't mean to offend.

Regards,

Derek
Here are two of the three plastic tabs Derek is talking about.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #75927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Self torquing axle nuts are garbage and may damage your axle threads. Old news. Stay with the quality, made in Japan, Suzuki Castle nut. It works.
Ahem... The Fuji-Lock axle nut IS an OEM Suzuki part. It's been standard issue on DR650s since 2005.

I've never heard of self torquing nuts. What a brilliant labor saving idea.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:50 PM   #75928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
BST40 carbs have cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.
Maybe I missed this before 'tween all the carb posts but I finally understand the difference. Thx for the brief description.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:13 PM   #75929
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Well, put my klr in the flea market and hoping to make the switch to a dr. Can't afford to spend a lot right now, so I'll be buying used and hopefully modded to my liking.

What about should I expect if all goes well, compared to the klr? I currently also own a plated XRR, I imagine a dr will be somewhere in the middle. I'm actually thinking about selling the xr next, assuming the dr is good enough off road. I think it will be.

I can see that in stock form the dr isn't really a 'highway' bike, but it seems like with a windshield it'll compare to my 2005 klr, or at least be close enough. I have a taller windshield and heated grips on it, got me spoiled a bit. I'm planning a mostly paved and light off-road 3,000 mile trip this summer, need to consider such things. The guy I'm going with is on a klr and rides it like a motocross bike. It gets interesting following him sometimes.

From all I've seen there is basically no issue with getting the bike hot, I guess for one reason or another it just plain works. Actually I haven't seen any issues that seem to really plauge the dr's, except for the third gear that seems to be fairly rare.

I pack light normally, so I don't see luggage being much of a concern. Some wolfman bags and a small luggage rack should do me. The bag I use on my luggage rack is about 20" long, I'm pretty sure it can fit longways. It basically fits everything I need, I'll just lose the back seat cooler storage.

Hopefully this can work. I tried to get a dr last fall, ended up with a trade deal for the klr and somewhat regret doing it. If anyone's looking to trade I'm listening.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:19 AM   #75930
Thumper Dan
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intimantors install help

Hi,

I'm installing ricor intiminator and have some questions:

The current oil level, without any spring (or anything) fully compressed, is about 180mm from top of for to start of fork oil or about 7 inches.

Do I fill to this level after intiminator is back in and fill to 6.5 inches (fully compressed), as per the instruction on this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588

Preload:

If the base thickness of the intiminator is around 15mm or so; can I just remove this amount from my spacers to give my my original preload??

thanks heaps
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