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Old 04-19-2013, 07:39 AM   #75946
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Well, put my klr in the flea market and hoping to make the switch to a dr. Can't afford to spend a lot right now, so I'll be buying used and hopefully modded to my liking.

What about should I expect if all goes well, compared to the klr? I currently also own a plated XRR, I imagine a dr will be somewhere in the middle. I'm actually thinking about selling the xr next, assuming the dr is good enough off road. I think it will be.

I can see that in stock form the dr isn't really a 'highway' bike, but it seems like with a windshield it'll compare to my 2005 klr, or at least be close enough. I have a taller windshield and heated grips on it, got me spoiled a bit. I'm planning a mostly paved and light off-road 3,000 mile trip this summer, need to consider such things. The guy I'm going with is on a klr and rides it like a motocross bike. It gets interesting following him sometimes.

From all I've seen there is basically no issue with getting the bike hot, I guess for one reason or another it just plain works. Actually I haven't seen any issues that seem to really plauge the dr's, except for the third gear that seems to be fairly rare.

I pack light normally, so I don't see luggage being much of a concern. Some wolfman bags and a small luggage rack should do me. The bag I use on my luggage rack is about 20" long, I'm pretty sure it can fit longways. It basically fits everything I need, I'll just lose the back seat cooler storage.

Hopefully this can work. I tried to get a dr last fall, ended up with a trade deal for the klr and somewhat regret doing it. If anyone's looking to trade I'm listening.
Add skid and real handguards. Sort the carbing and suspension. Throw on a Seat Concepts kit and a big plastic tank. Make your own windscreen. Add a wider aluminum plate to the top of the Suzuki tailrack. Make an aluminum heatshield over the muff and toss on some throw-over saddlebags, tank saddlebags, and a tankbag. You'll wind up with a dirtier and simpler bike than the KLR that doesn't mind rolling 70+MPH for 1000 miles down the slab in a day.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:36 AM   #75947
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno View Post
The only thing I found was there was a lot more room on my 03 KLR for comfort when on long adventures and less need for bigger tank...Just fixt the doohucky and every thing was fine then I got the idea I needed something different. What year is ur KLR?


It's a 2005. It's in the flea market here, I don't know how to add a link with my phone.

I did notice when sitting on the dr that it was a bit more cramped. I have highway pegs on the klr, I'll miss those for sure. Otherwise I'll probably just change bars on the dr to something higher, and possibly lower the pegs. They didn't seem that bad when I was sitting on one though.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:33 AM   #75948
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I would change the bushings and the bolts and if you have a castle-nut with a cotter pin I'd order the self torquing one from pro cycle makes chain adjustment a snap....be sure not to over tighten the chain....check it under load, And if you haven't removed the upper chain roller now is a good time to do so just find a bolt that fits back in the hole.
I was referencing the original above comment using the "self torquing" term. Obviously wrong ... I should have noted and corrected it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
You mean self-locking. Self-torquing would be quite a trick.

And I like this better than the self-locking nut, or the cotter pin on a castle nut.

Here it is again ... now corrected for clarity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I replaced my old castle nut with a self-locking nut and I hated it. The darn thing tried to cut the threads off the end of my axle. I used it twice and went back to the castle nut. I've been using this and it works pretty well (sprung snug, doesn't vibrate). But I like Emmbeedee's idea even better.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:36 AM   #75949
JagLite
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Question Tickle me?

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The BST40 carbs have cold start enrichment circuits instead of chokes. A choke is closed when an engine is cold and opened when it is warm, whereas a fuel enrichment circuit is opened when the engine is cold and closed when it is warm. A choke works by restricting the air flow, whereas an enrichment circuit works by adding extra fuel. A choke requires a fast idle cam or something akin to it (or you have to hold the throttle open manually), whereas an enrichment circuit adds a little extra air simultaneously with the extra fuel, so the fast idle is already built in.

Regards,

Derek
Well put Derek.
A nice simple explanation.
Please forgive us if we continue to use the term "choke" when speaking about our cold engine starting device.
All of us use common terms everyday so that others (less informed) understand what we are talking about.
As when talking with our doctors, we appreciate a doctor using common terms and not the exact medical words that we have to get him to explain.
Yes, a true choke works completely different from a fuel enrichment circuit.
Those who don't know the difference will appreciate learning that.

On the older carbs (Amal, etc.) that had a primer (tickler?) button to "flood" the carb, was that a basic way to use fuel enrichment?
Are the modern fuel enrichment circuits a more precise method?
And the knob or cable for the choke, er... fuel enrichment circuit (FIC? ) allows it to continue adding extra fuel whereas the primer only aided initial starting?
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:02 AM   #75950
Load Clear
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Gas tank & Lights

2 questions I can't find clear answers to:

1) I Just put an Acerbis tank on. Do I need to treat/clean the OEM tank (How & with what) if I am going to sit it on a shelf or sell it?

2) If I install some aux lights, can they be flipped on and off often - as if I am using them as high beams on the road?

Thanks
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:20 AM   #75951
frecks
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Does anybody know where I can find a used kickstand on the cheap? I don't really need it, but it would be nice to have if I can get one super cheap before I hack into mine (in case I mess it up). I'm going to attempt to cut a couple inches out of my kickstand, tap the inside, and use a piece of 3/4" threaded rod to make it into an adjustable kickstand for when I switch between dirt mode for me and supermoto/lowered mode for the girlfriend.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:08 AM   #75952
Mambo Dave
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Emmbeedee, do you happen to have an exact size for that cotter-pin / pin you're using (if it fits in without makign the castle nut slots larger)?
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:14 AM   #75953
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
On the older carbs (Amal, etc.) that had a primer (tickler?) button to "flood" the carb, was that a basic way to use fuel enrichment?
Yes.
Quote:
Are the modern fuel enrichment circuits a more precise method?
Yes. One of the problems with a tickler, besides being less precise, is that the enrichment is temporary and cannot be left "on". This means that engines with tickler-equipped carburetors typically run very poorly until warmed up unless the pilot circuit is richer than would be optimal when fully warm.
Quote:
And the knob or cable for the choke, er... fuel enrichment circuit (FIC? )
I hadn't thought about using acronyms. I suppose the cold start enrichment circuit would be "CSEC". I suppose "FIC" could be for "fast idle cam".
Quote:
allows it to continue adding extra fuel whereas the primer only aided initial starting?
Yes, plus a cold start enrichment provides fast idle, which, with a tickler, must be handled manually, that is via the rider either holding the throttle open, screwing the idle speed screw(s) in temporarily, or blipping the throttle until the engine is warmed up.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:16 PM   #75954
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
2 questions I can't find clear answers to:

1) I Just put an Acerbis tank on. Do I need to treat/clean the OEM tank (How & with what) if I am going to sit it on a shelf or sell it?

Thanks
I just sprayed some WD-40 in mine before I stored it. Figure that should keep it from rusting.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:51 PM   #75955
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear
2 questions I can't find clear answers to:

1) I Just put an Acerbis tank on. Do I need to treat/clean the OEM tank (How & with what) if I am going to sit it on a shelf or sell it?

2) If I install some aux lights, can they be flipped on and off often - as if I am using them as high beams on the road?

Thanks
1 - I have two tanks stored in my basement. I did nothing special to them other than letting them "air out" in which any remaining fuel was allowed to evaporate. Granted, my basement is new construction (~13 years old) and not damp at all. YMMV. If you're really concerned, put an once of straight weight motor oil in the tank. Let the tank sit in various orientations (on its sides, 'nose' & 'tail') to allow the oil to coat the inside. Thicker oils have a tendency to 'creep' over time which should cover the inside of the tank. If you cover all openings, the oil will wash out with gas or denatured alcohol if/when it's time to put it back in service. You could also try a bag of desiccant (those little bags of crystals that have "Do Not Eat" printed on them - they typically are included with electronics) inside the tank with the gas cap on the tank. In high humidity environments, the desiccant may have to be replaced on a (semi) regular basis.

2 - Sure, I guess. Check the Vendors thread to see what's available from the folks that sell LED kits.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:28 PM   #75956
disconnected
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I sold my stock gas tank and the purchaser is saying his gas cap will not fit. My understanding was from 96-current the tanks are the same. Do some gas caps fit certain years.

Also I kept my gas cap since it is keyed to my ignition. Is there a way to override the key lock if I send the purchaser my old cap?

Thanks,

Greg
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:58 PM   #75957
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Emmbeedee, do you happen to have an exact size for that cotter-pin / pin you're using (if it fits in without makign the castle nut slots larger)?
I don't know the size of it, but I do remember it was a tight fit between the slots on the castle nut. I took a drill and opened the slots up a little but I could just as easily have ground the clevis pin down a touch.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:39 PM   #75958
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
Does anybody know where I can find a used kickstand on the cheap? I switch between dirt mode for me and supermoto/lowered mode for the girlfriend.
I just reset my son's DR to stock height so I have a short kickstand for sale. They're so quick to change, it might be faster and less hassle than what you have planned.

PM me if interested.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:59 PM   #75959
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
I sold my stock gas tank and the purchaser is saying his gas cap will not fit. My understanding was from 96-current the tanks are the same. Do some gas caps fit certain years.

Also I kept my gas cap since it is keyed to my ignition. Is there a way to override the key lock if I send the purchaser my old cap?

Thanks,

Greg

California model gas tanks have different caps.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:08 PM   #75960
sandwash
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Location: Flagstaff Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
I sold my stock gas tank and the purchaser is saying his gas cap will not fit. My understanding was from 96-current the tanks are the same. Do some gas caps fit certain years.

Also I kept my gas cap since it is keyed to my ignition. Is there a way to override the key lock if I send the purchaser my old cap?

Thanks,

Greg
You can get a key (ilco,says suz12 on it)made. That blank is to short to work the ign,but it will work the cap and helmet lock
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