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Old 04-21-2013, 04:43 AM   #25051
1 lunger
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Originally Posted by g.mccormick View Post
Got my TE yesterday. Started tearing into it today. The thing was filthy with oil mess and what appeared to be some black mold. I think the garage it was stored in had moisture problems. The exhaust valve cover seems to be leaking, I'm hoping from just the screw holes. Checked the cct tensioner, its at 6 notches. Valves are super loose at .005. Will set them tomorrow. Also going to tear down and clean/regrease head bearings and rear suspension bearings. As I'm going through it, I'm taking apart every connector I come to to clean and apply dielectric grease.

I've got oil filter coming and also chain and sprockets.

Does anyone run Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 in their TE? I run that oil in everything, and even though the TE calls for 10-60 I was planning on running the Shell in it as well.

Do any of the other model Husky footpegs fit the TE?


Does anyone know what the disconnected plug under the seat is for? It does not appear to have a match anywhere. I will try and get a pic tomorrow.
Check the spring cup washers on the clutch they get beat up. PM Indy Unlimited on here and he well sell you some better than OE ones. You'll need to call Hall's for the rivets. Under seat?? Could be the tip over sensor wire, but only comes on the SM version
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:42 AM   #25052
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Originally Posted by stujamur View Post
Just put bike on stand and can see rotor is warped . Don't have a clue how i did it but its time for a new one .
What ends up being called a "warped rotor" is usually uneven deposit of brake pad material on the rotor, not an actual mechanical deformation of the rotor due to thermal stresses. Even if it is a measurable runout condition, you'll need measuring equipment, not eyeballs, to detect it. On an off-road bike, you might hit something and bend the rotor enough to see it. That would be a "bent rotor".

As long as you're planning to replace it anyway, you might try straightening this one. Just grab it with a crescent wrench and very carefully bend it back into position. If you can get it to 0.004" or less on a dial indicator with no "kinks", it should brake smoothly.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:00 AM   #25053
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Originally Posted by g.mccormick View Post
Valves are super loose at .005. Will set them tomorrow.

Loose valves are a sure sign of follower roller wear, they're about $36 to replace them, dig in there and check it out. Look for rocker shaft bushing wear too, the shaft wears on one side, you can flip the shafts to get some more life out of them.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:14 AM   #25054
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Loose valves are a sure sign of follower roller wear, they're about $36 to replace them, dig in there and check it out. Look for rocker shaft bushing wear too, the shaft wears on one side, you can flip the shafts to get some more life out of them.

The bike only has 3000 miles on it. I can't see them wearing that fast. I'm going to set valves and will recheck in 1000-1500 miles. I'm almost wondering if someone didn't "set them loose" earlier in its life.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:46 AM   #25055
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Originally Posted by g.mccormick View Post
The bike only has 3000 miles on it. I can't see them wearing that fast. I'm going to set valves and will recheck in 1000-1500 miles. I'm almost wondering if someone didn't "set them loose" earlier in its life.


I've seen them wear that fast, they'll be fully wasted by 7,000 miles.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:31 AM   #25056
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I've seen them wear that fast, they'll be fully wasted by 7,000 miles.
Thats not good. I went ahead and set them all to .002. Will check them in about 1-1.5k miles. If they've moved, I'll get parts ordered. Thanks for the heads up. Are they a bitch to change?
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:44 AM   #25057
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Spark plug boot not fitting

Ok, does anyone else's spark plug boot not seem to fit down low engough on the plug? It snaps onto the plug, but the boot is just barely in the counterbore hole. Definitly not all the way down to seal the hole.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:49 AM   #25058
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Clutch cable routing

Does anyone have a picture of proper clutch cable routing? This cable has been routed wrong at some point, don't know where it's suppose to go.
thanks
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:15 PM   #25059
stujamur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
What ends up being called a "warped rotor" is usually uneven deposit of brake pad material on the rotor, not an actual mechanical deformation of the rotor due to thermal stresses. Even if it is a measurable runout condition, you'll need measuring equipment, not eyeballs, to detect it. On an off-road bike, you might hit something and bend the rotor enough to see it. That would be a "bent rotor".

As long as you're planning to replace it anyway, you might try straightening this one. Just grab it with a crescent wrench and very carefully bend it back into position. If you can get it to 0.004" or less on a dial indicator with no "kinks", it should brake smoothly.
Thanks - its is deffinately "bent"
. No pad deposit . I will take you advice and see if i can bend it back .
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:31 PM   #25060
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Originally Posted by g.mccormick View Post
Ok, does anyone else's spark plug boot not seem to fit down low engough on the plug? It snaps onto the plug, but the boot is just barely in the counterbore hole. Definitly not all the way down to seal the hole.
Perfectly normal on the Husky 610. I always tought some engineer screwed up on cap depth.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:15 PM   #25061
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Originally Posted by g.mccormick View Post
Thats not good. I went ahead and set them all to .002. Will check them in about 1-1.5k miles. If they've moved, I'll get parts ordered. Thanks for the heads up. Are they a bitch to change?


You pull the main valve cover off to get to them, not that hard. Use a good heavy bearing grease to hold the needle bearings in place when you drive the new 'axles' in...can't think of what to call them, axles... that'll work. Second time I did them I took the time to grind down the old axle to go in by hand, then used the new axle to take it's place which helped hold the needle bearings in place. You'll know what I mean when you see them. I started chasing widening valve clearances right about 3,000 miles on my 610, baffled me until I took apart the top end to see what was really going on.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:17 AM   #25062
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paying attention now

Okay, went to Alabama to pick up a TE610 and have brought it home to Atlanta, so now I'll be paying attention to all the "how-to's" here...not an experienced wrencher but willing to do my own work...

Thanks Duane.

Also, what rear tire are folks running for some decent mileage and performance in the dirt?

I had to ask right? It's either tires or oil....
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:30 AM   #25063
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Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Okay, went to Alabama to pick up a TE610 and have brought it home to Atlanta, so now I'll be paying attention to all the "how-to's" here...not an experienced wrencher but willing to do my own work...

Thanks Duane.

Also, what rear tire are folks running for some decent mileage and performance in the dirt?

I had to ask right? It's either tires or oil....
Our bikes were sisters (owned by the same guy from AL)
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:38 AM   #25064
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Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Perfectly normal on the Husky 610. I always tought some engineer screwed up on cap depth.

That sucks. They don't seal out dirt and water very well.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:39 AM   #25065
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Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
Check the spring cup washers on the clutch they get beat up. PM Indy Unlimited on here and he well sell you some better than OE ones. You'll need to call Hall's for the rivets. Under seat?? Could be the tip over sensor wire, but only comes on the SM version

Already planning on getting some. The bike only has 3000 miles, but I'll get them and put them on the shelf for later.
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