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Old 04-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #8356
rdkyote
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfighter View Post
heres a quick shot of mine as loaded for vacation this summer, pretty close to sorted out.



touratech racks, wolfman expedition bags and enduro tankbag, custom made bottle holders for my 1.5 liter fuel bottles, a pair of cheap molle pouches from a gun case. the pack behind the saddle is my tent. Im hoping to do 3000 miles or so over 7 days, with a BMW rally in the middle.
I like it, so no issues with the upper hand grip bolts? I've been looking for an option and have done the upper/lower tank bolt upgrade. Worrying about those hand grip bolts has kept me from buying any luggage.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:31 PM   #8357
JustBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfighter View Post
i lowered the rear 1 inch, and left the front at full height. while i MAY drop it a little, i like the steering slowed down a bit as it is.
How did you do it?

Never mind....found it.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:46 PM   #8358
davidmnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Could you expand on this lowering business? I'm average height (6'1") but my 2010 690 is difficult to get on and off. I have to climb it like a horse. So, how much is it lowered, and does it affect the handling or ability to go over bumps? I might need to do this if there's no real penalty. If there's already a thread about all this, please point me to it.
I'm 182 cm (6') and I couldn't live with being on tip toes so I had to lower the bike. I got the longer Kouba link which lowers the seat about 25 mm (1"). Lowering links are a compromise because they do affect how the rear suspension works. Many people hate them but I'm happy because I'm not a fast rider. Roughly speaking the longer link softens the rear suspension.

For me the lowering link was a major plus because it improved my confidence in the gnarly, slow stuff where previously I was scared of tipping over because I couldn't get my foot down. It's a relatively cheap fix anyway so might be worth just trying it.

On tarmac I noticed that the bike didn't turn as well as it used to. This was one reason I also raised the forks.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:23 PM   #8359
JustBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmnz View Post
I'm 182 cm (6') and I couldn't live with being on tip toes so I had to lower the bike. I got the longer Kouba link which lowers the seat about 25 mm (1"). Lowering links are a compromise because they do affect how the rear suspension works. Many people hate them but I'm happy because I'm not a fast rider. Roughly speaking the longer link softens the rear suspension.

For me the lowering link was a major plus because it improved my confidence in the gnarly, slow stuff where previously I was scared of tipping over because I couldn't get my foot down. It's a relatively cheap fix anyway so might be worth just trying it.

On tarmac I noticed that the bike didn't turn as well as it used to. This was one reason I also raised the forks.
Excellent. I'll order one and try it out.
Thanks.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:38 PM   #8360
CordR
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sorry to ask, but...

At risk of raising the ire of some grumpy veterans (who I appreciate greatly), and at risk of being call an old lady, I have an air filter question.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Nowwhat View Post
You go to ktmtwins.com....You buy the filter... http://www.ktmtwins.com/690smc/nu-1417.html

You put it in the bike....You have no more dust..You stop whining like an old lady....

Honestly this was covered a long time ago.....if you still have a paper filter you have no one to blame but yourself....

end of rant...


Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
I need to upgrade and I like the idea of clearing out the airbox to add a pod - either the K&N or the small UNI pod.

But this is primarily to make extra storage space, not so much of a performance upgrade. I'd call it a 'nice to have', not essential.

My concern with this is what I'm reading about wet weather and possibly river crossings. I live in the Pacific Northwet, it rains 9 months a year here.

How much of an issue is it with these types of filters?

I believe Bobzilla has the uni pod, or perhaps that's outdated info. But I know he's also in a dry climate.

Aside from the rain, my only other concern is the fuel economy. Noah had mentioned in his thread last Sept that he thought he was getting a 20% decrease with the RR setup and was going to go back to a snorkel setup. Perhaps that's more to do with mapping than anything else.


I may just get the twin UNI filter and be done with it if that's the simplest/low risk thing to do. But if the concerns about wet weather and the smaller pods are exaggerated, maybe I'll go that route.

Would appreciate any input on that.

thx

Cord





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Old 04-22-2013, 07:32 PM   #8361
Hoots
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Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CordR View Post

At risk of raising the ire of some grumpy veterans (who I appreciate greatly), and at risk of being call an old lady, I have an air filter question.
I have just replaced my RR Twin Air kit with a Unifilter - the RR Twin Air filter is very loud, which bothers some people but I was OK with it - the RR Twin Air filter definitely has better throttle response than the Unifilter - I didn't notice any difference at all in fuel consumption with the RR Twin Air filter, although it does feel much more sporty and for that reason you feel more tempted to slide around ...

I replaced the RR Twin Air filter as (in my opinion) it is just too exposed without a full rally or ADV fairing (eg the RR product) - the problem is exacerbated if you fit the RR Evo-2 tanks without the fairing (as I did) - in doing that, you need to remove the plastic that extends from around the ignition key down the sides - when you do that, you can stand in front of the bike and just look at the RR Twin Air filter - this means that dust and rain goes straight onto it ...

Not tenable in my view ...

Thought about fabricating some protection that fitted around the front and shielded the filter but (like yourself) had also been concerned about how exposed to flooding I would be if I laid the bike down in a creek ...

So, replaced the whole assembly with the Unifilter alternative - which retains the plastic snorkel - all OK, but miss that bark and throttle response - this big motor needs to breathe ...
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:47 PM   #8362
slidefighter
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The suggestion from the board to weld on a big washer to the kickstand foot worked out well. I had a welder cut 3/4" off the kickstand leg and then weld a 2 1/4" steel washer to the foot.



My welder friend is good! Lowered the triple clamps 1/2" tonight too. Ride tomorrow!
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:56 PM   #8363
Roadracer_Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Do you have the 690r instrument cluster? It is the little one, not the one that came on the 2008 model. Have not heard of any white powder problems with the 2009 690r clusters.
Nope, 2008 Enduro.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:02 AM   #8364
practicalshooter
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I finally got mine to start again yesterday, after a long winther inactive.

Had to use a trailer to get it home after the last trip in the autumn, and as it was snowing I havent bothered to try to figure it out very intensly - my garage is not heated. I decided straight away it looked like a pump/filter issue, and decided to start by changing both and get some proper fuel hose in there at the same time.

This is where the first nightmare started... I think I made 50 phonecalls trying to source some SAE30R10 compliant submersible fuell hose, first in Norway then in Europe. No luck. Most people didnt have a clue to what I was talking about ("surely you can use 30R6 submergedm it's designed to withstand fuell"). Readily available, if a bit expencive in the US, it's simply not possible to get here. Lots of US dealers online, none of whom I found that both had the right hose in stock AND were willing to ship to Europe.

In the mean time I had the injector cleaned, and even if it wasnt completely cloged, it by no means produced the nice fine mist it should.

In the end I emailed James Renazco, and he helped me by ordering the hose for me in the US and then mailing it to me. That's what I call custommer service

Thanks James!

Anyway, got it all together yesterday, and hooked up TuneECU.

"Failure in ambient pressure sensor, or sensor short to gorund" (from memory).. anyone seen that before? couldnt find any reference to it at all. In the end, I changed the plug and away it went.... Spoke to a norwegian KTM mecanic and he had spent a full two days figuring that code out before he tried that.

Anyway, in the end it started. Now it's back out to refit all the stuff that have been stripped in the process, cleaning properly and just maybe a small testflight

BTW, the insulation on the wires from the alternator to the coil were almost burnt through by the exhaust, worth checking for everyone I guess.

/D
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:39 AM   #8365
Brute
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
If you wind up with redundant working instrument clusters, let me know. I need one - white powder from hell, and flickering LCDs so bad I never know how much too fast I'm going.
I pulled mine apart & cleaned out the white powder .
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:38 AM   #8366
Seth S
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I got a new speedo from the dealer...in the months it took to do so I fixed my own. The powder comes from the the printed plastic breaking loose of a mounting pin and then chaffing on the lcd. My fix was crude but worked well. I simple took it apart, carefully popped the speedo needle off and cut the plastic window out of the printed piece (the plastic window that sits above the LCD panel). Cleaned all the powdered plastic out and reassembled...put some silicon sealer on the missing pin. It wasn't a perfect fix but it stopped the vibration and the display was readable again.










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Old 04-23-2013, 08:57 AM   #8367
KC-10ENG
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Anyone ever have a rear brake lock up on them??

I just got back from a 2-day ride and everything was fine. I unloaded the bike at a friends house and rode home approx. 2 miles. By the time I got home the rear brake was locked almost to the point that I could not move the bike. Rear brake lever had zero travel in the driveway. I had to bleed the rear brake to get the bike rolled into the garage.

Any in-sight into this problem would be great.

Thanks
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:03 AM   #8368
Roadracer_Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute View Post
I pulled mine apart & cleaned out the white powder .
I've cleaned it twice, but that doesn't solve the flickering LCD - which is the primary function of the speedo.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:07 AM   #8369
Roadracer_Al
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Yes, in fact. I had this happen on the front brake of a CB750 not long after I bought it.

My theory is that some water gets into the system, and causes a bit of rust or corrosion in the caliper, causing it to drag. The heat rises until it creates steam, which expands in the caliper, forcing the piston harder and harder against the rotor until it won't turn.

If this isn't true, it ought to be.

The solution is complete replacement of the brake fluid -- clean everything with alcohol prior to reassembly and leave to dry overnight or blow dry with compressed air. And check your caliper for cleanliness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-10ENG View Post
Anyone ever have a rear brake lock up on them?? ...I had to bleed the rear brake to get the bike rolled into the garage.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:29 AM   #8370
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
I've cleaned it twice, but that doesn't solve the flickering LCD - which is the primary function of the speedo.
Flickering is the primary function? hmmm mine must be defective.
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