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Old 04-23-2013, 11:01 AM   #34966
WeazyBuddha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torontorocko View Post
did you miss this from the last page?
Yours seems to have started as an X so what you did is what I'd do.

However, I'm starting with an R, and its weaker brakes. So, I am wondering if anybody with an R has laced X components to their DS wheels and then gotten a second set of wheels for SM also with X components.

As a new WR owner, thanks for the patience as I slowly start to get the hang of things on this thread and on my WR knowledge.

Perhaps the R brakes are fine doing SM duty and any marginal gain from the X components may not be worth the trouble.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:02 AM   #34967
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Yeah, the Shinko 244's are hard to beat on price and handle better than the Kenda 270's when cranked over coming out of turns. I'm killing the Shinko 244 on my WRR pretty quick, but then again, I'm not the easiest on tires.

I'm getting to where I'd rather run a Shinko 244 rear and maybe something a bit more aggressive on the front like a MT21 or TrackMaster II front. That makes a nice combo when you need the traction and still decent life.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:42 AM   #34968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
Sprockets change the wheelbase measurement?

Isn't wheelbase measured from the center of the hubs?

Currently in learning mode as I picked up a practically new '12 R this past Friday. Had it in the bed of the truck the entire CoTA MotoGP weekend.

Hope there's room for one more inmate on this thread.

I'm going to use it to fart around dirt and gravel roads around here, basically motorized hiking. My GS is too much of a pig and my skill level low. The KLR is ok but I wanted something lighter. We'll see how this goes. Was going to dual sport the KDX but I think this WRR will fit the bill.

I do need to figure out the wheel thing as I want to swap SM and DS wheels quickly. Am thinking of having SM wheels laced to WRR hubs.
Wheeling supply has supermoto or dirt wheels readily available for the wrr

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Old 04-23-2013, 01:01 PM   #34969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
Yours seems to have started as an X so what you did is what I'd do.

However, I'm starting with an R, and its weaker brakes. So, I am wondering if anybody with an R has laced X components to their DS wheels and then gotten a second set of wheels for SM also with X components.

As a new WR owner, thanks for the patience as I slowly start to get the hang of things on this thread and on my WR knowledge.

Perhaps the R brakes are fine doing SM duty and any marginal gain from the X components may not be worth the trouble.
Do you know for a fact that the R has weaker brakes?? As far as I understood, the X just runs a bigger rotor, therefore, it(caliper) is mounted further out on the fork tube, achievable with an adapter bracket. I had always thought the calipers and pads were the same, albeit with different first three digits in the part number, due to Yamaha's numbering system, and those first three digits referencing the bike the parts are for.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:22 PM   #34970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Do you know for a fact that the R has weaker brakes?? As far as I understood, the X just runs a bigger rotor, therefore, it(caliper) is mounted further out on the fork tube, achievable with an adapter bracket. I had always thought the calipers and pads were the same, albeit with different first three digits in the part number, due to Yamaha's numbering system, and those first three digits referencing the bike the parts are for.
physics would say bigger rotor = more stopping power given everything else being equal
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #34971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
physics would say bigger rotor = more stopping power given everything else being equal
yes, I am with you on that....somewhat. But, the bigger rotor on the X vs the R is more for, less brake fade, due to the chances of the X using its front brake more than the R, in its typical riding environment. The calipers and pads, sans mounting location, should be identical, as far as function. If I am correct, surface area of pad, does not care how big the rotor itself is.

Bigger caliper, bigger pad and bigger rotor, would make for "better" braking, IMHO.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #34972
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I've never had a problem stopping the R. Normally you lose wheel traction before you come to a full stop me have to let off the brake anyways.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:38 PM   #34973
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:39 PM   #34974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post

I'm getting to where I'd rather run a Shinko 244 rear and maybe something a bit more aggressive on the front like a MT21 or TrackMaster II front. That makes a nice combo when you need the traction and still decent life.
Don't do it. The TM II front tire sucks. The MT21 front would be way better. I really like the Scorpion Pro of the MT16 fronts.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:49 PM   #34975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Do you know for a fact that the R has weaker brakes?? As far as I understood, the X just runs a bigger rotor, therefore, it(caliper) is mounted further out on the fork tube, achievable with an adapter bracket. I had always thought the calipers and pads were the same, albeit with different first three digits in the part number, due to Yamaha's numbering system, and those first three digits referencing the bike the parts are for.
No

Sounds like I'm splitting hairs and the R hubs/rotor/brake components laced to SM wheels would be fine.

I did shoot an email to Wheeling Supply.

After I resolve the wheels question it'll be on to the exhaust/ECU/tuning dilemma.

Wish I could do a Jay Leno, ask that the bike be setup and let me know when ready.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:54 PM   #34976
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I havent investigated the hubs on the stock wheels for the R and the X, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if they are identical.

The front brake calipers are the same, as are the stock pads. The only difference is a larger diameter rotor and a different caliper mounting bracket. The master cylinders appear to the identical (again, in contrast to others like the TE/SMS 630).

Yes, increased leverage results in the X having greater stopping power on the front wheel. In reading thousands of posts on these threads, it is uniformly considered a BAD thing in the dirt. The X brake locks the front wheel too easily for most (aggressive) riders. Also, and more important to some, the larger diameter X rotor places the caliper at increased risk of damage in a slide or crash - it is harder to protect.

The consensus it that the R brake is perfectly adequate, and more than adequate in the dirt. On the street, with X wheels and tires, with more rubber contacting the ground, the R brakes feel weak to some. This appears to be strongly correlated with their past history (street vs. dirt) and their expectations for performance, rather than linked to any real performance inadequacy.

As a counterpoint, several contributors here run knobbie tires on X wheels (I'm thinking of one in particular on a WR250X because he has a short inseam and likes the lower ride height on the X but wants full suspension travel). They have never reported that the X front brake is "too strong" in their dirt riding, but I didn't get the sense that they were aggressive riders.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:57 PM   #34977
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Makes complete sense. Thank you, kind sir.

Edit for follow-up question: Do the X and R rotors swap out? If I buy used X wheels can I just put an R rotor on them for easy swapping?
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:34 PM   #34978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
I believe the rotor and brake components are a bit better on the X vs. R.

With that in mind, has anybody laced DS wheels to the X hubs to benefit from the better brakes?

I'm tempted to lace R hubs to SM wheels to be able to switch back and forth quickly but am wondering if there is anything to gain from doing it as I describe above, DS wheels on X components.
I run a full 'r' setup on my 'x' in dirt mode and my wife's dirt setup is with warp9 wheels with the x rotor. For ease I suggest using an r hub for the am setup. Your brakes are sufficient unless you get in a track type situation where fade can come into play.
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:35 PM   #34979
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First of all, mega-thanks to all who posted comments and suggestions about tires - extremely helpful!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryphon12 View Post
Yep. Use a bigger rear sprocket and the same length chain and the center-to-center hub distance will change slightly. A bigger sprocket will force the rear hub very slightly forward with the same length chain. Two-tenths of an inch isn't much - it's the same swing arm, but different rear sprocket.
So, if I understand this correctly, I can replace my OEM rear sprocket with one that's 3 teeth more without having to either break or get a new chain and the only difference with the 3-tooth-larger rear sprocket will be the rear axle moving forward ~5mm?


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Old 04-23-2013, 02:47 PM   #34980
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Originally Posted by Red Sand View Post

First of all, mega-thanks to all who posted comments and suggestions about tires - extremely helpful!
So, if I understand this correctly, I can replace my OEM rear sprocket with one that's 3 teeth more without having to either break or get a new chain and the only difference with the 3-tooth-larger rear sprocket will be the rear axle moving forward ~5mm?


I put on a 44, one tooth up, and that was as far as the chain could go.
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