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Old 04-24-2013, 05:14 AM   #76081
deathu
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Bucharest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I had a similar issue with my BST40 that I chased unsuccessfully by leaning off the pilot. Fixed it with an FCR. Upon subsequent reflection, I decided it may have been a fuel enrichener aka choke problem. Maybe?
I was thinking about the enrichener as well, that's why I replaced the plunger.
Another thing I omitted to say is I'm using the IMS tank with the locking gas cap. Often when I take off the cap, I can hear the hissing sound and see the tank collapse a little bit, as the pressure is released. Maybe this pressure that builds up in the tank can affect the mixture as well?
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:34 AM   #76082
bobzilla
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neutral switch

Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:13 AM   #76083
frecks
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Does anybody know what size of bolts the Acerbis handguards use to clamp on to the handlebars? I apparently lost all four of the bolts and I need to replace them before my ride this weekend.

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Old 04-24-2013, 06:17 AM   #76084
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
That's a good question.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:59 AM   #76085
Carl Childers
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Location: Northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.

Down side? Not really, I've ridden road bikes and dirt bikes for years without them and though each transmission has its own quirks you quickly learn the feel of it snicking into neutral and then don't even think about it as long as you ride that particular bike. I think neutral lights are more comforting to beginner rider and just a habit for most long term riders.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:10 AM   #76086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
If you do, make sure you also remove the plunger and spring behind the switch.
Check out this article by Elden Carl
http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_...e/tinov06.html

It's an old article, but the bike hasn't changed much and he carries a little more credibility then I do.


Rumlover screwed with this post 04-24-2013 at 09:10 AM
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:23 AM   #76087
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
Is there a requirement to have a neutral light for a bike to be street legal?

If you were to sell it or change states, a close inspection by the DMV/MVD/RMV may reveal its absence.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:40 AM   #76088
mill
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Location: AL azzcrk a.k.a Da Gump
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baldy View Post
Great idea. I'd love to see a compelling list of add-ons rated with stars, kinda like we did with book reviews. Once we've got some concensus on all the best products, I'll make a list like that.

Baldy
The neutral switch he is referring to is the neutral safety switch, and has no effect on the indicator light. This switch is only to prohibit the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch safety switch is not engaged.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:41 AM   #76089
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Is there a requirement to have a neutral light for a bike to be street legal?

If you were to sell it or change states, a close inspection by the DMV/MVD/RMV may reveal its absence.
Worth checking out if you plan on selling the bike or letting others ride it. Of course modifying the clutch switch, side stand switch, non stock brake lights, etc might also be a problem.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:50 AM   #76090
mill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Worth checking out if you plan on selling the bike or letting others ride it. Of course modifying the clutch switch, side stand switch, non stock brake lights, etc might also be a problem.

Hhhmmm, I could be wrong in regards to his reference. Probably am considering I tend to be wrong quite often
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:39 AM   #76091
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Chain roller removal...why? Cuz I said so!


Fuel tap change? To what? Why? Not necessary, but if you do, Yamaha Raptor tap about $20, that's what I use.


Neutral safety switches? Absolutely. The kickstand one cuts the engine when landing off jumps or crossing logs.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:08 AM   #76092
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
The OEM Mikuni #140 main jet is installed ( I did not replace this one) and also I have a new OEM pilot air jet but I wasn't able to get the current one unscrewed from the carb body, it's stuck and seems to just break instead of coming out.
Bummer, sorry to hear of the stalling and hesitation. I would try again to get that Pilot Jet out. Maybe soak it with something? Get a really good screw driver on it ... and apply pressure. Also, try tapping on it a few times to break loose the corrosion. It may help.

Other than that ... I don't have a clue. Since you replaced every part in the Carb ... you can only hope they are all correct parts and that you installed them correctly. (which it sounds like you DID!)

I had similar problems a few years back. I found the Mikuni parts were expensive ... I just bought a near new BST40 from an inmate here.
I swapped in my Dyno Jet Needle and 155 main jet (open air box) and has been perfect since.

Best of luck tracking down the problem!
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:27 AM   #76093
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
This week I'm picking up a 2008 DR650 which is stock. I'm sure I'll be doing plenty of "improvements" over time to prepare it for my adventures. Until then I'd like to do whatever is needed to prevent getting stuck or blowing up the engine. This is my first priority.

What I think I know:
Neutral position switch loctite? Where?
Chain roller removal...why?
Fuel tap change? To what? Why?
Neutral safety switches?

Can I get some clarity on the above and whatever really matters that I don't know?

Thanks!
Some of us don't think it's necessary, and here's info for the leave it alone crowd.

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpnov06.html
http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/cp_...e/cpaug07.html
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #76094
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
As far as jumping a DR650 goes...

I have been getting pretty good at jumping on top of my bike as it tries to crush me. That is on a KLR250. I believe this to be an even more important skill for a heavier bike. I've never been too proud to abandon ship when needed.

Intentionally jumping it?
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #76095
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.
Probably some loss in resale value. A potential future buyer may think of a non-working neutral light as something that would have to be fixed by a shop.
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