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Old 04-23-2013, 07:51 PM   #1
Katze OP
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Location: California Land Of Sunshine
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2010 Adventure Questions

History: I owned a 2008. Bought it used, it had been in a minor wreck, it was not totaled.

I put 4k miles on the bike.

It had major issues (for me).
Mapping: It never was right. It would die for no reason, at the least opportune times. The bike also had major head shake at times, usually upon deceleration.
Also, the front wheel "hopped" at 30 to 45 mph.

Too scary... sold it. For over a year now I've been thinking "what if?" What if it didn't die in intersections? What if when I let go of the H-Bars on decel it didn't go into a violent headshake? Plus, it seemed to use more oil than I thought it should. Otherwise, I loved the bike.
Off road it kicked arse and it was a fine highway mount.

I'm thinking maybe I got a lemon.

Enter Mr "leftover". A 2010 Adventure: Brand new... never had gas or oil in it. Dealer says all the mapping issues have been solved. Good price.

Question: Why is there a 3 year old "Brand New" bike for sale at the dealer when it's one of the hottest models on the market?

Question: Were the mapping issues really solved by 2010? What about that headshake and bouncing front wheel?

I'm "new school" on this shit. Call me spoiled. When I buy a bike I want it as close to perfect as I can get.

What say you.... Orange Crushers?

Buy?... No Buy?...
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Katze screwed with this post 04-23-2013 at 08:01 PM
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:37 PM   #2
tacosupreme
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Go ride it. If it's tits, buy it. It is odd that it sat for that long, but it happens. I bought a new WR450F that was 3 years old...
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:07 PM   #3
SierraJeep
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I have a 2010 and have had very few (non-major) issues with it - no different than any other bike I've owned. Not much changed after 2010 (other than the BNG), what did change was some minor mapping changes.

From what I know, you can fuss with the mapping if that sort of thing worries you. Mine works just fine for me and I ride it fairly hard. It has over 23000 miles on it.

The shop in my town has another 2010 sitting on the floor. I know he bought a few of them back then and they just don't sell very raipidy in our little corner of the world. I've toyed (fantisized) with the idea of being able to buy the other one just to have a fresh new one since they're not going to make any more.

So to answer your question: if you want a new 990 and can get that new 2010 model for a good price, I wouldn't worry about it being "out-dated" and I'd pick it up. (It should still have a warranty since it's never been sold before.)
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:25 AM   #4
BELSTAFF
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What he said

SJ is right, there are out there, when I bought my 2010 there were 2 2008 & a 2009 setting on the floor at a dealership in the midwest plus I found 2 2009 in AZ. They can be found ,the problem is not the bike but the stealership, who refuse to let them go because they feel they have a goldmine and want new price for them.

Also like SJ said they're not going to make anymore of what I would rightly call a "true adventure bike" & 2010 thu 2012 had most issues sorted, so I would have no problem w/ a holdover
If the price is right BUY IT!! & don't look back you'll own a true adv bike plus a historic icon that should have kept in production for another 10 years. IMHO the 990 is the ultimate do all adv bike.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:01 AM   #5
Bowser
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they must have changed somthing on the new ones as the mapping for the FI is different to my 2007 and not compatible, it makes a bit more power, only thing is I dont know exactly when the changes were made
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:07 AM   #6
tacosupreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowser View Post
they must have changed somthing on the new ones as the mapping for the FI is different to my 2007 and not compatible, it makes a bit more power, only thing is I dont know exactly when the changes were made
Differences between 2007 and 2008 Adventures (USA) (6/07-5/08):
New forks
New rear shock
New ECU (Timing Charger EFI)
New ABS module and brake hoses
New water pump rotor (thicker)
New water pump shaft (longer)
New handlebar
New inner clutch cover
New clutch slave cylinder
New oil tank
New fuel hose

Differences between 2008 and 2009 Adventures (USA) (6/08-5/09):
First year for the white (ABS)
First year for the "R" Black and white with orange frame (non-ABS long & travel suspension)
New pistons (2008 Super Duke pistons)
New camshafts (2007 Super Duke cams)
Increased horsepower ratings (106hp for ABS and 115hp for "R")
New wiring harness
New ignition lock with immobilizer
New water pump cover
New instrument panel
Black forks
New Black swingarm
Emergency flashers
New design tanktop storage box

Differences between 2009 and 2010 Adventures (USA) (6/09-5/10):
New oil pump pressure regulator
New skid plate and skid plate/fuel tank mount
New silencers
New forks
New rear shock absorber (mono shock)
New MFSD (speedometer)
Differences between 2010 and 2011 Adventures (USA) (6/10-5/11):
Added "Dakar" model (blue, ABS, 210mm suspension, 115hp engine)
Reduced suspension travel on the "R" model by 17mm

Adventure Suspension Travel:
2003-04: 9.0" (230mm) - "S" 10.4" (265mm)
2005-06: 8.3" (210mm) - "S" 9.65" (245mm)
2007-08: 8.3" (210mm) - "S" 10.4" (265mm)
2009-10: 8.3" (210mm) - "R" 10.4" (265mm)
2011-11: 8.3" (210mm) - "R" 9.76" (248mm)
Adventure Seat Height:
2003-04: 34.6" (880mm) - "S" 36.0" (915mm)
2005-06: 33.8" (860mm) - "S" 35.2" (895mm)
2007-08: 33.8" (860mm) - "S" 36.0" (915mm)
2009-11: 33.8" (860mm) - "R" 36.0" (915mm)
2011-11: 33.8" (860mm) - "R" 35.2" (895mm)
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #7
D K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacosupreme View Post
2005-06: - "S" 9.65" (245mm)
Is it possible to have this verified?

I read somewhere that those models had 13.2" front and 11.8" travel.


D
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #8
akarob
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The front end issues you described just sound like the wheel was drastically out of balance. It could be as simple as an added rim lock with no counter balance.

I have a stock 2010 and the factory mapping is good. It's just a litte jerky at slow speeds, but thats more to do with the highway gearing than anything else.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:42 AM   #9
Masa
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I have a '11 and it was way too jerky at low speeds. So I took the easy road and bought the PCV with dyno tune. Smoother throttle and pulls strong from around 2000rpm. In stock condition it was very unpleasant to drive through city limits, but now it's just cruising..
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #10
alongat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masa View Post
I have a '11 and it was way too jerky at low speeds. So I took the easy road and bought the PCV with dyno tune. Smoother throttle and pulls strong from around 2000rpm. In stock condition it was very unpleasant to drive through city limits, but now it's just cruising..
When you did the PCV and Autotune, did you also do a custom, Dyno based tune and with respect to the actual Autotune, single or dual exhaust sensors? Lastly, for the Autotune lambda sensor, what did you have to do, if anything to the exhaust pipes for the sensor to thread in?

Thanks
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:02 PM   #11
Masa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alongat View Post
When you did the PCV and Autotune, did you also do a custom, Dyno based tune and with respect to the actual Autotune, single or dual exhaust sensors? Lastly, for the Autotune lambda sensor, what did you have to do, if anything to the exhaust pipes for the sensor to thread in?
No no no, no Autotune. Just took it to a tuner, who did his magic with PCV on a dyno.
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