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Old 04-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #136
Gliga OP
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Day two, continued

Before reaching Vrnjacka Banja I head off the main road, and turn toward Goc mountain. Minor paved road vindes trough some villages. Gradually houses stop and pavement turns into good gravel and then into old cobblestone. Always a good sign. Road leads through dense forest, autumn colors are getting into full swing. Beautiful, relaxing ride. I'm zealous from the start, this is anti-stress therapy. Morning incident is now years away in some other universe...








Few wrong turns and dead-ends later (old GPS and dense forest don't make reliable navigation combo) I get reconected with main road. Once at Goc I'm surprised by brand new, wide and twisty tarmac. No reason to complain about that, it's always a blast. Road is so new that it's not paved all the way so there is one section of deep gravel. I planned to make a loop around hotel "complex". Road which leads from hotel, beside being clearly marked as "No motorized vehicles allowed" is good gravel.

Few kilometers later and road suddenly turns into single track. No problem, off course I have to go on. 10-15 meters later and my stomach is turned into a knot: single track drops very steeply (steep enough that I would think twice about using it, even on a MTB) for couple of meters. Luckily for me I was going slowly and managed to stop before the drop started so I could easily turn around (well, as easy as possible on overgrown single track). I later found out that there was a landslide here, couple of years ago. I could see the road continuing down there but it would be just too much unnecessary risk to try and get there. Broken bike or broken bones sound like no fun to me. Backtracking time.

Dead-end Roads:Gliga 4:0.



Yes, it is steeper than it looks. And there was a vertical drop at the and of the single track, connecting it with road down below

So, it's back to hotel and then again over that newly paved road to reconnect with planned route.





I love taking photos of heavy machinery. Older the better. It was Sunday afternoon so there was nobody at the construction site


I'm on gravel once again. First intersection and GPS says "go left" and I do. It's clear to see that this was a road once, now it's great wide track which hasn't seen any traffic, other than bicycles and pedestrians, in very long time. It looks pretty so I decide to follow it anyway. Soon enough track is blocked by another fallen tree. Forest around was cleared so it would be possible to go around but track looks worse on other side so I decide to go back and try another route. It's worth mentioning that there were no clearly visible roads on Google Earth for this section (dense forest and narrow roads below the canopies) so routing was like: just connect few dots that look like a road and hope that it will materialize in reality.

Anyway: Dead-end Roads:Gliga 5:0






It's a short, less than a kilometer, ride back to the "main" road. At this point I'm still optimistic that roads will go trough and take me where I planned to go. Sucker... But more time will pass before I realize that So, instead of going back to tarmac I head further into the forest. Road is still in great shape, probably used for logging. Next intersection offers two choices: main road goes straight on and to the left is smaller logging road. Left is where I need to go so no dilemma about that.

[


I reach the point where trucks are being loaded and from there road turns into badly overgrown one. Beneath grass I can't see large rocks and I' constantly dodging shrub branches. There is even one short section where stream is flowing over the road, not just crossing it. Fun times... I'm happy because it's obvious I'm approaching planned route. And then a penalty kick for Dead-End Roads: small clearing in the forest, old, destroyed cabin and nothing else, not even a walking track. Dead-End Roads never miss from penalties so it's 6:0



This is first, good, part of that last dead-end and below is where it ends




So, yes... Backtracking time again. I'm on a "main" road once again. Intersection: road to the right is the one I suspect would take me back close to the hotel. Road going straight on is still very good gravel/dirt so no reason to give up now. Few turns go by and road gets progressively worse. Piles of logs by the sides of the road, tractor parked between the trees... From that point something that only resembles a road goes on. And, since I didn't have enough I try to ride it. 10 meters later and light bulb goes on in my head, it's time to turn around...

Dead-end Roads:Gliga 7:0






By now I'm running out of road options and time. Reluctantly I admit being defeated. It's time to find another, much longer, route. Even with all those dead-ends spirits are flying high, there is something very peaceful about this forest, just makes me feel like I belong here... This was all so much fun, I would like to come back here and explore more, without time pressure.

I don't want to backtrack the same way so I decide to take that road from previous intersection. Imagine: stream flows over the rocks on one side of the road. Numerous springs and smaller streams are on other side. And all that in old beech forest. This is height of dry season of a very dry year and still there is water everywhere... I can't even imagine how it all looks after the spring thaw.






I press on and soon arrive at the run-down mill. Now I'm happy, this means I have finally found some road that goes trough. And then another nasty surprise: ramp across the road with me on the wrong side... I can see the pavement, only 10 or so meters away. No way around it...
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:03 PM   #137
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loving your report mate keep it coming. I'll be passing through the area soon so I'm reading your report intently
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:35 PM   #138
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Your tenacity has won a decisive victory over the Demon of the Dead Ends.
Three cheers.
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:15 AM   #139
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Day two continued

Just for fun I try to open the ramp and, believe it or not, it's not locked. Problem is that it can't stay lifted and there is nobody to hold it in place. Luckily for me it could be lowered to the ground so I was able to cross over it.
Dead-End Roads VS Gliga 7:1

Goc mountain really gave its best to try and stop me from leaving... Great place to be, I'll be more than happy to go back there.

Short conversation with forest service guy confirms that line from a map actually represents a road. 40 kilometers of good gravel and cobblestones, shortcut which will save me from riding more than 100 km of tarmac. I get directions how to find beginning of the road: "After the lake you'll pass parked red car. Right after that car the road starts... It's a good gravel road, regular passenger cars are using it." Hmmm, how can he be sure that the car will be there??? Anyway, I pass the lake and soon after there is abandoned red car on the side of the road and there is something resembling the road right after that car. I cross the stream, and stop immediately. No way this can be actual road with all that rocks and complete lack of "roadness"...

Hundred or so meters down the road there is another intersection and this time road delivers what was promised: nice, wide gravel winding its way trough the forest slowly climbing off the mountain. Pure enjoyment... And then, just when I think things couldn't get much better nature proves me wrong. In just a couple of turns road gets out of the forest and suddenly I'm at the bottom of very narrow, deep, steep sided valley. Picturesque stream is flowing over the rocks, following the road. I lack the ability to put it all into words and this time pictures won't help that much. Sun was to low and at wrong angle so pictures are just pale shadow of actual place...










Pavement comes sooner than expected. Off course I take wrong turn but realize that mistake almost immediately. Soon after I find myself on main road. After few hundred meters distant memory wakes up in my mind "Road between Kraljevo and Raska is one of the best motorcycling roads in Serbia." And I'm riding it right now... Short few kilometers confirm that statement. Wide open and fast sweeping corners, perfect tarmac, and not that much traffic. What more can you ask from a road? Well, maybe a faster bike :) In Biljanovac I leave this moto heaven and turn toward Josanicka Banja spa. To be honest with you there is nothing wrong with that road either. It's even twistier which suites my bike better. No traffic but surface is not in such a good shape. Fun times

I refuel in Josanicka Banja. Amazing kindness, or lack off it, of the lady in grocery store makes me forget to buy two out of three things I needed. Well, at least I bought some bread :) Climb toward Kopaonik National Park is another fine example of fun motorcycling road.




Sun is low and soon it will be decision time. Ride the pavement all the way and get to planned camp spot with plenty of daylight or stick to the original plan (ride XYZ kilometers of completely unknown forest roads which may or may not exist/go trough in reality) and risk riding down the ski slope after dark. Fuck it, I'm sticking to the original plan. Who knows when will be the next time I come to this area... Since this is National Park it's possible that by that time roads will be closed to traffic.

First part of forest road is in bad shape. Bad as "I wouldn't be to happy to drive my car here." It's not that bad for a bike but going is slow. Road goes trough dense evergreen forest which doesn't let to much light to reach the ground. After some time I rejoin with perfect gravel road, progress is not that slow anymore. GPS batteries decide to call it a day so I take the opportunity for a break and to take some photos. While I was standing a car comes from opposite direction, young couple and their fancy dog. If they are driving around here I'm sure that road can't get much worse.








Road gradually gets into some open terrain, there is daylight again. Abandoned mountain huts, meadows and trees everywhere. And then definite highlight of the day. After one ordinary turn spectacular view appears in front of me: to the left of the road there is huge grass covered plateau with a tree here and there. To the right of the road is gentle slope, once again covered with grass, blueberry bushes and some trees. Whole this scene is further improved by the fact that it's currently bathing in golden light from the setting Sun. Perfect spot in perfect time, if there was one...
















Perfect camping spot. There is even a water spring nearby. It will be dark by the time I set up the tent and get unpacked. And that's exactly why I choose to move on I have food and water and place is amazing. "But I don't have a lighter, there is no proper camping without a fire." Nevermind the fact that I actually have Primus stove with piezo igniter- in essence a large lighter :) My planed camping spot looked even better from satellite photos, small meadow by the stream, right beside the road. And you know satellite photos are extremely reliable when it comes to fine details like that Only real reason to move on is the fact that tomorrow is supposed to be really long day and it wouldn't get any easier if I add 10-20 kilometers of unknown roads. Disregard the fact that all those unknown roads can easily be bypassed by pavement... So yes, stubbornness prevails, I move on.

By this time it's way to cold for mesh riding gear I have. Chilly mountain wind gets straight to my bones. I refuse to stop and dig liners out of roll bag, they are at the very bottom, and beside, it will only be a short ride to my planed camping spot. Yeah, right...

Short pavement section gets me to the heart of tourist center. I feel very out of place here but there is a market and I buy damn lighter and some more food. Price? Only 50% higher than anywhere else... The Sun is gone by the time I'm ready to move on. And this is western slope... I still have to climb the ridge, then descend over ski slopes and ride unknown distance to reach camping spot on the eastern, darker side... You can probably see how this is going to end

At the start of the road toward the ridge there is a nice, large sign saying "no traffic beyond this point". In my mind that translates into "Just ride, you don't know any other road and besides, who will stop you." Road to the ridge is in good shape. Ridge itself still offers plenty of nice camping spots but no... "I'm camping in beautiful meadow beside picturesque stream..." Ridge is exit point for ski lifts from both sides. There should (satellite said it should) be a road going in my direction. I turn downhill to soon and find myself going down the ski slope. It's not to bad, not steep and I can see the bottom so it can't be that long. There are ditches going across the slope in regular intervals, varying in depth and width. Lack of commitment sees me getting stuck in second one :) Little cursing does nothing to move the bike. Front wheel is at the bottom of the ditch with skid plate firmly planted on it's edge. Pushing and rocking the bike followed by lots of cursing also achieve nothing. It's digging time. I have to dig the channel for the front wheel to get out. After minute or two I remembered that I have a Leatherman multitool so there is no need to dig with my fingers. Few minutes later and bike is free. I'm exhausted and my hands are shivering from all the digging and maneuvering the bike. At least I'm not cold anymore






"I'm pitching my tent as soon as I get of the slope. I can't go any further." I cross rest of the ditches without problems, base of the slope is so close that you could easily throw a rock there. There is only one or two more ditches to cross. You have only one attempt to guess if I got stuck or not. And I'll help you by saying YES, I fucking did!!! This time I now the drill so it's out with Leatherman. Few minutes of digging and I'm satisfied but the bike isn't. It's going nowhere... Rear wheel just keeps on digging while skid plate is firmly stranded on one of only few rocks around, no way to remove it. I'm just about ready to leave the bike there and pitch the tent, that's how much energy I had left... More digging, more failed attempts to free the bike. Using last bits of strength I manage to pull the bike until rear wheel got out of the hole it dug and skid plate got off the rock. Start the bike, release the clutch and voila: rear wheel got straight back into its hole No amount of shouting or cursing could make things any better. Even more digging followed. I don't know how but I was able to get the rear wheel out of the hole one more time and this time the bike was free. We crossed the last ditch!!! I'm soaking in sweat, I can barely stand on my feet and my hands are destroyed from all the digging and man-handling the bike. You'll forgive me for not taking any pictures :) 30-40 minutes spent in getting out of that ditch...

It's pitch black now. Moment when I got out of that ditch was the same one when I decided not to camp at that spot but to press on. "Road" is actually still a ski slope but not a steep one. Problem is that surface isn't meant for summer use so it's full of loose rocks and dirt. Few times front wheel tries to wash-out but somehow I manage to keep the bike upright... I reach the bottom of the ski slope, there is small lake there and equipment hut. I'll come back here if my planed spot proves to be unusable. At least from there on the road is normal gravel again so riding is easy. I'm riding trough the forest and expect to see widening any minute now...

I reach planed camping spot, turn off the engine and hear the stream down below. Problem is that there is no way to see anything, and no way to get off the road. No camping here. No turning back either. Plan A failed. I'll just press on until I find some other suitable place to camp or come across a house or anything. If nothing else there is a hotel/motel close to the place where I'll get onto pavement but that is plan M or something like that. Plan B is basically to ride until something useful happens :) Road is still in good shape and it actually got better and better as kilometers passed.

I was happy as a child in candy store when I saw lights from civilization up ahead. Then a cold shower... Checkpoint ahead with a sign that from distance looks like "stop for customs" one. Fuck... I never though I was this close to Kosovo border. Guards won't be happy at all to see me roaming here... I was relieved when that sign turned into just "police checkpoint". Officers couldn't believe that I came from that direction: "There is NO road from ski center to here..." The guy was friendly and very amazed with the story. Two minutes later it was obvious that he's not going to ask for any documents. Instead I ask if there is a place to camp anywhere in the area. Some time later, like he's trying to find a way to give me directions to far away place, he says that I could pitch my tent on a nice plateau 15 m from checkpoint if I don't mind traffic noise. There is a monument there with pine tree forest behind it, picnic table and benches. SCORE!!!!

After I pitched the tent I walked over to the checkpoint for a little talk with officers. Nice and friendly guys. Then it was dinner time. As soon as I sat at the table and got food out a kitten appeared. I gave him/her small piece of home made ham and he ate it before I could take a bite myself. OK, give him another piece and try to cut one for me. No such luck, he was on table sniffing the ham before I could cut it :) That's not going to work... And just to make whole process more interesting another cat arrived. In the end I gave them both larger pieces which they couldn't swallow. Meat is salty and chewy (home made, smoked pork ham...), and that will keep them occupied for some time. Only then I was able to actually eat something :)

Instead of planned easy 160-170 kilometers it turned into long 220 km day, over 7 hours of moving time. There was no way to get the smile off of my face. Such an intense day, I enjoyed every moment (other than that falling incident in the morning, which at this point looks like distant past...) and every obstacle. This is proper adventure, this is what I wanted!!!
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:29 AM   #140
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Great Ride Report!

The Balkans are soooooo beautiful! They really are an underestimated jewel of Europe.

Thanks so much for posting.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:01 AM   #141
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I was on Kopaonik in 2009
Ditch (shallow one)



Weather wasn't friendly



I really like your "way of doing it"
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:09 PM   #142
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Update is long overdue...

Day three

Early wake up, short walk around the campsite and it's time to move.







Not a bad place to camp, especially considering the fact how I found it.


Pavement ride lasts anywhere between five and ten meters. Basically, I just had to cross the road. So proud of route planing right now. Mix of gravel and dry dirt roads takes me across some rolling hills. Nice and easy riding, great way to start a day. It's still early and light is good so photo-stops are frequent. That will haunt me in the afternoon but for now it's just great...

















This looks like it'll be a bitch to fix...


At water spring I met two guys, well into their seventies. It's not very often to meet people that old with so much energy and positivity. Both of them managed to tell me some interesting life stories in short time it took me to fill water bladder (nothing beats ice cold water, fresh from the ground, on a hot day). Spring closer to their village has dried up so they had to haul it for some distance...
As I already said, road was very good. Few short sections were full of tractor tracks with good line close to the edge of the road, above steep drop-off; good way to maintain concentration :)






Since I skipped the breakfast following sight makes me smile:




For some unknown reason I got this sudden urge to stop right there and then :) Every branch was full of picture perfect plums. First one I tried also tasted perfect, much better than anything you can buy in a city. Sadly, rest of the plums weren't ripe jet so I move on with an empty belly :)






With all the stops it took me just under hour and a half to cover first ten kilometers. Perfect, that's how I love to ride when there's no pressure... But, the thing is there are still 210 kilometers to go today, with one major tourist stop in-between. I reach the pavement and road is just perfect. Nice, open corners, race-track surface and no traffic at all. Great way to make up some time. Only few kilometers later and road started to deteriorate. Any sign of maintenance suddenly disappeared; no traffic signs, no lines, vegetation starting to reclaim the surface, few minor landslides... I'm guessing it's different jurisdictions on neighboring sections...




With some care it's still possible to keep decent pace. And then, just to maintain continuity, pavement had to end :) Gravel was close to perfect so it was easy to keep the speed up.




Few kilometers later trough the shrubs I saw this large dam. At first it was strange to see all those structures on "dry" side of the dam but then it hit me; it's not finished yet... U-turn and I'm soon on a side road going over the future lake-bed. I'm expecting to reach a gate or guards any second now, but there is nobody around... And soon I found myself at the very bottom of the dam. And that was it when it comes to making up some lost time... I'm soon-to-be structural engineer and opportunity to see site like this is simply amazing for me.

I even contemplated going into a drainage pipe (almost as tall as me...). Common sense and lack of a flashlight made me skip the opportunity :)








Back on a road for a very short time, I simply had to stop at the crown of the dam, walk across and take some photos...











Workers village downstream. By this time it was obvious that the site was abandoned for a long, long time. I wanted to see those dump trucks from up-close so badly but there has to be a guard there...

Reluctantly I move on. Just as I got down to valley floor and there's a guy at the side of the road waiving at me to stop. "Shit, it's a guard..." It turns out he is a guard but he just wants some company. He's bored here, spending two weeks away from home. Few words are exchanged and I have permission to enter the site and shoot whatever I want. SCORE!!!

Slavko, pictured below, is probably most perverted person I have met up to date.




First thing he said was about him being worried that I was there to steal something. Second thing was about how scared he was few nights earlier when a car came in a middle of the night. When he approached the car it turned out it was a young couple, girl giving a BJ to a guy. Third thing he said was about how much he loves BJs but his wife's "not supportive" about that... Fourth, fifth and every other thing he said just kept getting weirder and nastier, stuff you'd think twice before you tell them to a best friend, let alone to a total stranger :)

Anyway, I got the photos I wanted (turned out worse than I hoped...) and some refreshments so there's no complaining. Oh, yeah, Slavko confirmed that this site was abandoned since early nineties, when Serbia turned downhill...









If anybody has Kamatsu dumper truck from the eighties but has lost maintenance/lubrication table here it is :)







Nine photos pano, that's why steering wheel is missing some parts.




Another hour and a half gone, still less than quarter of the distance covered and off-road is yet to come
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:50 AM   #143
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Stunning pictures ...wish i had a month of free time to spend in these locations.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:21 PM   #144
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Thanks for the updates! I love your photography. Well done!
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:57 AM   #145
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Keep it coming!

I'm keeping notes, planning to be in the area august/september if you fancy re-visiting any of the trails with some company

Thanks for the updates, and keep it coming!
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:11 AM   #146
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Outstanding trip & photography!
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:56 AM   #147
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Thanks for the compliments guys It's nice to see that writing efforts are worth it :) I'm rather busy lately and it's difficult to find enough time for proper updates, that's why now you get more shorter ones
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:03 PM   #148
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Day three continued

Enough of that construction site, it's time to move on. Shortly after the dam pavement starts again but that's short lived. After only few kilometers I leave the main road and take great gravel road toward Igriste village. It's rare for me to ride aggressively off-road. However, this was one of those situations... Twisting the throttle like there's no tomorrow, sliding the back wheel out of corners. Generally having a blast :)








I bypassed the village (that was a mistake. Later I found out that this village is located at the edge of a plateau, with great views in several directions) and was ready to tackle first questionable section for today. Ten or so kilometers of track, barely visible/not visible on Google Earth, to the next village.






It turned out that the road is not in such a bad shape. It's rutted, narrow and nature is slowly reclaiming it but nothing really challenging. Story would be very different if it was wet because all that nice, hard packed dirt would turn into a mud... Oh, and there were some tracks from tractor tires so at least now I knew that it will go trough.






Just to get annoyed again I had to lay the bike on the ground. Same story as yesterday: trying to get out of a rut on a dirt road, front wheel just washed out. No damage this time as I was barely moving.






After Mirnica village road turns back into nice gravel. By the side of the road I can see blackberry shrubs, full of fruits. It would be crazy to miss opportunity like this so it's time for a break. Few months of heavy drought are taking their tall, every single fruit is completely dry. Disappointed, and still hungry, I move on.




As I approach Kursumlija town I rejoin with some paved road. Again, it doesn't take very long for it to start deteriorating . I pretend like I didn't see remains of an old gate across the road and move on. Few turns on and this time no amount of pretending would make it possible to continue; tall new fence across the road, with several "no access" signs. U-turn time :) From satellite images it was easy to see that this road goes trough to the other side. What I didn't know back home was that there is some military complex here... At least detour only took couple of minutes.


I just love when this happens: I rejoin with "main" road at the exact spot where pavement turns into gravel.



And a short video of that road leading to military base.




Next stop is Kursumlijska Banja spa/village. Once a popular spa resort now left to decay... I started to write about how this can happen but it would sound like SF to you so I'll just skip it... I was actually looking forward to visiting this place and taking some nice photos (I love old/run down and abandoned buildings) but seeing this was to much so I didn't even get off the bike...






I missed a turnoff from the "main" road. By the time I realized this it slipped my mind that there was a regular gravel road few hundred meters before. Instead, I found myself on a steep and narrow track. Surface was covered with small pebbles, acting like ball bearings. Luckily, all this lasted only for a couple hundred meters before I got back to proper road.








Next on a list was visit to Djavolja Varos (Devil's Town) Nature Park. I'll let you enjoy the photos, no words are necessary... I'll just say that hour and a half spent walking in (almost) full riding gear in 32 degrees Celcius heat (90 F) were well worth the effort.








This is a stream bed but there's no water now










Young figures, still in process of formation. It will be long time before they "grow up"




Panorama from the viewpoint, 25 individual photos...


This whole area is rich in minerals so there are many old mine shafts, now flooded.






After the tour it was time to go back to riding. Gravel road starts right from the parking lot so there was no backtracking. With exception of one short section (my mistake I got there in first place) this road is in very good condition and a real pleasure to ride. Sadly, it was becoming obvious that I'm running late. I still haven't reached half-way point and there is less than four hours of daylight left. This means that large/good camera stays in its bag...






Some 15-20 kilometers later I'm back on pavement. Road resembles collection of bad patchworks, almost without a single peace of original surface left. However, roads configuration is amazing, going up and down, winding along a stream. Soft enduro suspension enables me to forget about all the potholes and patches so this is actually very, very enjoyable ride.






At the fuel stop in Lebane village I decide to skip next long off-road section. At this point it was an easy decision. It was late and I had absolutely no idea if planed route is even going trough to the other side... Now, this means I'll ride trough Leskovac city, considered as barbecue capital of Serbia. 5 PM sounds like perfect time for a nice breakfast. Once in a city I stopped at a first grill which looked busy (you can't go wrong that way, locals know where the food is good so you just have to find a place with most people waiting :) ). One word to describe the food: perfect.




After some wondering around I finally managed to find a way out of town. Now I'm on the main road going trough this part of country and traffic is somewhat heavy. Still, it's a beautiful ride, going trough Grdelicka klisura (Grdelica gorge)


It's not a proper ride report if you don't have a photo of your shadow while moving :P


In Vladicin Han town/village I get of the main road. Whole town looks run-down so I don't stop. There is one more town on my route where I'll be able to buy food for dinner. As I approach Surdulica town there is smoke all around. Some massive fires are going on...



Surdulica also looks like really run-down town so once again I don't stop (upsy...)

Just few corners after Surdulica I find myself in motorcycling heaven. Picture-perfect road with countless corners... Fast ones, slow ones, hairpin here and there. Not a single stretch of straight road. And for some reason I start riding aggressively. Very aggressively, at least for me. Usually I'm very cautious and rarely I get carried away with riding. Well, this was one of those moments. Full throttle after every corner, late and hard braking... You know how it goes :) Simple, perfect harmony with a bike. Unbelievably perfect way to end days ride... To this day it is still best pavement ride I ever had.

As I climbed higher and higher toward lake Vlasinsko temperature started to drop. The Sun was gone now. However I didn't want to interrupt the ride and, besides, destination is only five or ten kilometers away. Who'd dig out liners from the bag anyway...

Approaching planned camp site on dirt road I was thinking about how much would it suck to loose food I have bought in last town. And then a light bulb goes on; no way I'm going to loose the food, simply because I didn't stop to buy it in the first place... Idiot...

I found good place for a tent, close to the lake shore and nobody in sight. Still shivering from the cold last few kilometers I pitch the tent. By the time I was unpacked it was already dark. I got down to the shore, had some dinner (I had some ham with me but it's not as tasty when you have to eat it on its own) while stars were slowly appearing.

Standing there for quite some time (standing, a good way to rest after whole day of sitting on a bike), just soaking it all in. At one point I got this sudden urge to go for a swim. I'm cold, water is cold and a it's really cold outside (lake sits at little above 1200 m and autumn is approaching...). I just had to do it Short swim, not so short drying process (no towel or anything...) and it felt sooooo fucking good. Full moon started to rise and stars slowly disappeared as I enjoyed the evening. Most enjoyable night camping up to date (wide open space and a lake helped a lot, I still don't feel comfortable camping in forest. To many noises are making me paranoid, with no actual reason).

Man, this is life!!!
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Gliga screwed with this post 04-26-2014 at 12:02 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:11 PM   #149
MeinMotorrad
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Fantastic update Gliga
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #150
Stretch67
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I've been keeping up with your report from the beginning. Thanks for the update.
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