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Old 04-25-2013, 09:16 PM   #271
Bill Harris
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Interesting demo of the shift dogs.

Odd about the first gear bushing running tight. I can't remember much about those bushings. Not surprising about their cost, though. The fit a gearbox that's been out of production for 40 years and nothing else. The bearings have many other applications.

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Old 05-19-2013, 07:09 PM   #272
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Turns out the binding of first gear was caused by good ol' fashioned friction - new first gear bushing was too wide and old one was too narrow. I believe when the transmission was last rebuilt, one step was overlooked. It explains why many parts including all the bearings, are good. I'll explain. When I removed first gear I didn't notice the thrust washer showed signs of heat (notice the blue marks.)



When the gear was on the shaft, the original bushing was just barely proud of the gear surface.



When the ball bearing was pressed on, it applied too much pressure to the thrust washer with the resulting wear -



I'm sure what some of that 'magnet plug fuzz' is. Put a new bushing on with lots of clearance -



Unfortunately, too much clearance -





Either the bushing I installed is the wrong part (according to the fiche, it's correct), or the I have a version of the tranny with a thinner first gear (doubt that's the case). Will check with my parts supplier next week.



This all began when I started doing the calculations for shimming the shafts and discovered this discrepancy. The manual (and BMW, for that matter) don't provide specifications for bushings and the bushing for 2nd and 3rd gear is not user serviceable.

Good point, Bill, about these parts. When I said, 'I picked up a couple of bushings', I really meant I paid for two with one still to come on back order - arrival status is 'indefinite'. I'm not complaining - I was already warned not to venture into transmission repair.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:28 PM   #273
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Good job of sleuthing.

The parts availability is one reason I'm farming out the next rebuild/refresh of my transmission to someone who is a master. They'll have donor boxes and/or know how to source these obscure parts. I'll gladly pay for someone's headache...

--Bill
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:34 PM   #274
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I hope you do a 5 speed some day. But the 4 speed is entertaining. Nice to compare the differences I guess.

I wonder if we aren't supposed to just make our own bushings? This doable and quit simple if you have a lathe I think.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:10 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I wonder if we aren't supposed to just make our own bushings? This doable and quit simple if you have a lathe I think.
For a while, I was wondering the same thing until I realized the spiral oil channel on the OD limits how much material can be removed. I'm thinking the wrong part got into my suppliers' parts bin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Good job of sleuthing.

The parts availability is one reason I'm farming out the next rebuild/refresh of my transmission to someone who is a master. They'll have donor boxes and/or know how to source these obscure parts. I'll gladly pay for someone's headache...

--Bill
Quite agree but I think the biggest challenge in doing your own transmission repair is getting the output flange off (and back on again).



(photo used with permission of Joerg Hau)
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:46 PM   #276
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No puzzles - some progress

Special thanks to Pokie who I met at Akabeton's recent tech day - he shook me out of my stupor and gave me some valuable pointers on transmission setup which filled in some knowledge gaps (and he came all the way from Colorado to set me straight). Bottom line - fascinating experience, not for everyone but learned a lot. Check one more thing off the bucket list. Besides getting the output flange off and on, probably the biggest challenge was getting accurate measurements for shimming the end play on the three shafts.




Had my local dealer re-torque the output flange this week - didn't charge me a dime. I offer the following photos as proof progress has been made this week. Feel free to point out obvious screw ups (yes, those shocks are temporary).












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Old 06-14-2013, 10:09 PM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Woodman View Post
Special thanks to Pokie who I met at Akabeton's recent tech day - he shook me out of my stupor and gave me some valuable pointers on transmission setup which filled in some knowledge gaps (and he came all the way from Colorado to set me straight). Bottom line - fascinating experience, not for everyone but learned a lot. Check one more thing off the bucket list. Besides getting the output flange off and on, probably the biggest challenge was getting accurate measurements for shimming the end play on the three shafts.




Had my local dealer re-torque the output flange this week - didn't charge me a dime. I offer the following photos as proof progress has been made this week. Feel free to point out obvious screw ups (yes, those shocks are temporary).











I only see one, and a comment.

If you use the modern footpeg rubber the kick start lever won't clear it. kick it over and the lever cuts the rubber right down to the steel. I trimmed a couple rows of diamonts off my /5 lever. Looked completely stock if you didn't know how long it used to be and worked perfectly. Might still have it even. Should have a pic somewhere.

There is a small hole in one of your top cover badges. It has been added. drill through the top cover and put a flat head screw in it with a nut on the inside or better, drill and tap the cover for a flat head screw. You have to pick your spot carefully for a screw and nut because of the flange on the inside, so may not be able to use that hole. Anyway those badges fall off and you don't notice..at the time. I used tiny stainless button head screws on mine. looked right and I didn't have to paint them.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:37 PM   #278
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'Modern' is a relative term when it comes to airheads

Good eye, Plaka. Hopefully I'll never have to use the kick start - I was actually tempted to leave it off the bike. Installed it with a new tapered retaining pin anyway - just trying to keep it all original. In a pinch, I guess I could bump start it if I run the battery down.

Previous owner pop riveted the badges on. I drilled out the rivets, cleaned up the badges, filled the holes with Bondo and repainted them. Then I glued them onto the cover with construction adhesive which hydraulically popped out the Bondo when I squished the badges on. Those suckers will NEVER come off again.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:02 AM   #279
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I've moved onto less interesting final details like troubleshooting and correcting dodgy wiring. No photos because you've all seen it before. Did, however, stumble upon a cryptic diagram describing cable routing through the rubber grommet under the gas tank - yes, all those holes have a purpose.



Also figured out how to get a consistent patina on aluminum cases that I had cleaned with a wire brush and were just too bright.



I simply applied some of this stuff and buffed it out by hand - took minutes.



Even the carbs got the once-over -



Sometimes I marvel at the ingenuity of the designers of these machines - even though the German mantra was, 'form follows function' they still pulled off some remarkably beautiful designs. I confess to a weakness for boxer engines - they make a lot of sense. I was in Vegas recently and dropped into the car museum at the Imperial Palace where I saw, among other things, an old Panhard from France. Very BMW-like engine - no doubt lots of ideas were shared (cheerfully ripped off). This led me to reflect on boxers past and present - Daimler, Chevy (Corvair), Alfa Romeo, Subaru and of course, Porsche. (Name a few more - I'm sure there were lots.) It was a Porsche engineer, Hans-gunther von der Marwitzm who was lured to BMW in the mid-sixties to revamp the /2 line and create the /5 line. I see a lot of BMW DNA in my Porsche.

The reason I dredge up this seemingly irrelevant stuff is my belief that half the fun of riding an airhead is understanding its history. I often wonder about the mentality of its original creators. For those of you who haven't seen it, check out Porsche's movie from the 1960's called Made by Hand (it's on YT). Pure Porsche propaganda but it gives some insight into the design philosophies of post-war German manufacturers. Very interesting.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:34 AM   #280
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For those of you who have followed this thread patiently and who have put up with the gloomy photos, I offer something a bit more uplifting - after almost three decades in boxes the bike's first glimpse of sunshine. . .



Just a few more parts and it will rejoin the fleet. Cheers.

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Old 06-29-2013, 07:56 PM   #281
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Superb work and detailing.

The easiest way I have found to torque the output flange is to clamp the bar of the special tool in a vise.

You have a Trident, too?
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:32 PM   #282
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I always put a fork tube over the puller's bar and put the fork tube against my stomach and then pull the torque wrench towards me. The tranny can be setting loose on a bench on two 2x4's and it will set there just fine. Same deal with busting that nut loose but instead of my torque wrench I use my breaker bar and another fork tube.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:27 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Woodman View Post
For those of you who have followed this thread patiently and who have put up with the gloomy photos, I offer something a bit more uplifting - after almost three decades in boxes the bike's first glimpse of sunshine. . .



Just a few more parts and it will rejoin the fleet. Cheers.
Mmmmm...sort of thought you were going to be a bit more...um...thorough.

I can see skipping the horn and gas lines, who needs 'em? right? But are you really planning to show your face in public with the thing without properly indexing the dipstick? I suppose you could wear real dark sunglasses....



BTW, what are you holding the right side cover on with?
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:34 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwrench View Post

You have a Trident, too?
No, the Trident is a distant memory as will this toaster be probably soon after its completion. You have prompted me to come clean and adjust my signature, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I always put a fork tube over the puller's bar and put the fork tube against my stomach and then pull the torque wrench towards me. The tranny can be setting loose on a bench on two 2x4's and it will set there just fine. Same deal with busting that nut loose but instead of my torque wrench I use my breaker bar and another fork tube.
That's not me in the photo of the two guys loosening that output flange nut. When I saw that photo, and the expressions on their faces, I was convinced I didn't have the tools to do the job properly. BTW - excellent use for old fork tubes!

Quote:
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Mmmmm...sort of thought you were going to be a bit more...um...thorough.

I can see skipping the horn and gas lines, who needs 'em? right? But are you really planning to show your face in public with the thing without properly indexing the dipstick? I suppose you could wear real dark sunglasses....

BTW, what are you holding the right side cover on with?
They don't make sunglasses dark enough to hide my shame. You don't miss a thing. I guess I was so overwhelmed by an actual NICE DAY in Vancouver, I forgot to complete the illusion of a completed bike. No matter - I was suitably punished for my trickery when the rivet on the gas cap seal was, in a poltergeist-like moment, suddenly spat into the gas tank (or was it the heat from the sun that caused the expansion of the pot metal?).

Like many things on this expensive lawn ornament, the right side cover is held on with hope.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:14 PM   #285
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Mind sharing that wire routing diagram? Been looking for one for a while.
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