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Old 04-24-2013, 07:51 PM   #5806
Wallrat
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Location: Orange County, Ca
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I'd wager that 100% of your starting issues are due to the carb and the stator is fine. The easiest way to deal with the carb is to just spend the bucks and get a pumper. It aint cheap but you get 1-2 kick starts in any weather and a nice increase on the bottom/mid range. You can tweak the stock one but if the bike has been sitting around neglected you're probably going to need a complete gasket replacement if nothing else.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:30 AM   #5807
jphphoto
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Let's hope so. I have a gasket kit and a new float needle on the way from service Honda. Once started and run it will start with a kick. Cold, not so much.
I'll let you now how it goes.
Thanks,
Jason
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:16 AM   #5808
hughrk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jphphoto View Post
Let's hope so. I have a gasket kit and a new float needle on the way from service Honda. Once started and run it will start with a kick. Cold, not so much.
I'll let you now how it goes.
Thanks,
Jason
Set your float height after you fit the new float needle, this IMOP is the cure for most cold starting issues.

Cheers
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:27 AM   #5809
tonusmaximus
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Location: nky
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Xr4 chain

Am looking for a chain sprocket set. Anyone know of a good deal on a quality product? M-superstore was way too pricy and eBay doesn't have the reviews I need to convince myself..
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:18 PM   #5810
AMCJEEP
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Originally Posted by tonusmaximus View Post
Am looking for a chain sprocket set. Anyone know of a good deal on a quality product? M-superstore was way too pricy and eBay doesn't have the reviews I need to convince myself..
Try www.rockymountainatvmc.com
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:58 PM   #5811
RideFreak
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+1 but I'd avoild their chains (primary drive) Had one fail in 200 miles.
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:58 PM   #5812
MartiniUp
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Originally Posted by jphphoto View Post
Let's hope so. I have a gasket kit and a new float needle on the way from service Honda. Once started and run it will start with a kick. Cold, not so much.
I'll let you now how it goes.
Thanks,
Jason
CK the pilot jet while you are in there. Should be a 60 or 62 for best starting. Try a 160 main. They come way too lean from the factory. I would also bet three nickels the stator is just fine. I have had four XR4s and feel the stock carb is not a problem at all.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:18 PM   #5813
hughrk
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Originally Posted by martiniup View Post
ck the pilot jet while you are in there. Should be a 60 or 62 for best starting. Try a 160 main. They come way too lean from the factory. I would also bet three nickels the stator is just fine. I have had four xr4s and feel the stock carb is not a problem at all.
+1
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:20 PM   #5814
wvridgerider
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Location: west virginia
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Originally Posted by mvg2 View Post
Wowzers is that clean!!! Nice bike

On a unrelated note, the momentum of getting the bottom and top end back in harmony is picking up. Recieved my new countershaft, crf chain, and a couple of different jets to experiment with.

Machinist said the cylinder bore was out of round and that explains the heavy build up on the piston. Now just to find some time between finals and work...
Wow, I wonder if it was a bad bore job? I wouldn't think it would go bad that fast.
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:09 AM   #5815
G600
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Originally Posted by MartiniUp View Post
CK the pilot jet while you are in there. Should be a 60 or 62 for best starting. Try a 160 main. They come way too lean from the factory. I would also bet three nickels the stator is just fine. I have had four XR4s and feel the stock carb is not a problem at all.

+2. Spot on.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:13 AM   #5816
DrLewall
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Originally Posted by MartiniUp View Post
CK the pilot jet while you are in there. Should be a 60 or 62 for best starting. Try a 160 main. They come way too lean from the factory. I would also bet three nickels the stator is just fine. I have had four XR4s and feel the stock carb is not a problem at all.
I've told this on here before, and I don't mind telling it agn..I had starting issues with the stock carb and had it apart several time trying to figure out what the deal was.

Had the 62 pilot jet in it and we kinda felt for some stupid reason, it just wasn't big enough. Was at my friends shop using his "carb work bench" where he rebuilds his carbs and he has a set of super tiny drill bits. Had the 62 in my hand and was looking for a drill bit that would not fit into the 62. Found one that would and got the next size bigger that would not fit. Used it to ream or drill out that 62. My best guess now would be that my converted 62 is probably a 65 or a 70 now. Since then, no starting issues! It lights up now on less that 3 kicks, when before it would take 50-60 kicks.

We don't have a clue as to why the 62 wasn't doing the job, when everyone else's 62 seemed to do But I am happy with it and it's working for me. And thats what I did to fix it.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:48 AM   #5817
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Quote:
Wow, I wonder if it was a bad bore job? I wouldn't think it would go bad that fast.
That's exactly what the guy said. Nothing to do with it going bad, it just never started out good. So if that KTM of yours ever has to go under, you may want to find a new guy.

But even with that cylinder it still ran! Now that everything is back together I got to take it for a spin yesterday and the motor certainly is a little more snappier.

Now (always something) that I have put a new front tire on, the front end has got a annoying wobble/pulsation when riding down the road. I balanced it once, but no help. So I may rotate the tire a bit and start over....
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:25 AM   #5818
XR4EVER
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Location: Post Falls, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvg2 View Post
the front end has got a annoying wobble/pulsation when riding down the road.
Make sure the tire is "centered" in the rim lock. My usual procedure is to leave the rim lock loose and take the bike for a short spin off road around the house to let the tire self-center and settle into the rim, then I come back and tighten the rim lock. Otherwise, you can pinch too much (or not enough) of the bead inside the rim, giving you a low (or high) spot on your tire.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:45 AM   #5819
mark1150
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A couple of questions... petcock and rear mudguard?

As per the header I have a couple of questions for you guys.
The first concerns the fuel petcock; my original one was leaking past the valve when in the off position, which I replaced with a used one from e bay and that one has the same problem.
I drilled out the rivets, and found that the diaphram had some wear on it so I turned it upside down and inside out re assembled.
At first I thought that all was well because it holds air pressure, BUT, when on the bike it still drips fuel while in the off position.
My question is does any one know of a diaphram that could replace this? or can one be fabricated at home, and if so what materials will I need, as officially Honda do not sell this part as the petcock is not rebuildable?.

The second one concerns the rear mudguard / fender, what modern shaped one is available (similar to a DRZ 400) to replace the integral guard rear light?

Thanks in advance.
Mark.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:34 PM   #5820
Clem Kevin
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My shop gave me a yamaha seal for the petcock, it had four holes rather than the 2-3 that the stock honda one comes with, but I haven't had any leaking since.

pictured here...

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