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Old 04-22-2013, 02:59 PM   #16
jaTillApan OP
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Thanks for the feedback!

I tried something like the trail tech design but taller and it looked like shit :P And after riding 200 km yesterday I really feel I want the fairing to be as high as possible. Maybe I have to sacrifice some aesthetics for better comfort...

Here is something in between the first two designs:



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Old 04-22-2013, 03:48 PM   #17
Skibikejunkie
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Says a lot about the affordability of aftermarket fairings that you can fab one out of carbon fiber and still have less out of pocket.

I must have a lousy sense of aesthetics, because I've liked all your design mock-ups.

Do you plan on incorporating your existing headlight, or will you be adding an aftermarket light along with the fairing?

Cool thread--will definitely follow along on the journey.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:56 AM   #18
jaTillApan OP
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Originally Posted by Skibikejunkie View Post
Says a lot about the affordability of aftermarket fairings that you can fab one out of carbon fiber and still have less out of pocket.

I must have a lousy sense of aesthetics, because I've liked all your design mock-ups.

Do you plan on incorporating your existing headlight, or will you be adding an aftermarket light along with the fairing?

Cool thread--will definitely follow along on the journey.
Thanks for the encouragement! It's well needed!

I actually don't think this will be a lot cheaper than buying a similar sized fairing. Maybe the Lynx one is a bit on the expensive side, but it's also more complex with the adjustable windscreen. And the more I read up on carbon fiber manufacturing the more nervous I get. But even if I try and fail I hope I learn something in the process...

I'm thinking of upgrading my headlight to get a better high beam, so I will probably not use the original one. At the moment I'm looking at HIDs, but they are really expensive. We'll see what I can find... If I end up with a design that supports the original headlight I guess I could use it in combination with another high beam on top of it. That might actually look cool. Thanks for making me think about that!
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:40 AM   #19
jaTillApan OP
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I saw a picture of this guys bike some time ago, and now I finally found a tread about his build. I think his fairing looks great:

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Old 05-01-2013, 09:51 AM   #20
Motomochila
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaTillApan View Post
From what I can figure out the lynx fairing attaches in a similar way to how I want mine to attach, turning with the forks. What do you think would be the problem? Will mine be too high and wobbly? And the wind protection can hardly be affected that much by how you attach the fairing, right? In speeds where you need a fairing your forks will hopefully point in the same direction as you are going :P Or am I missing something?
My Lynx attaches to the lower clamp and the bar mounts. I had to fab up a completely new mounting system to hold the fairing in place. Way too much wobble and rattle in the dirt. I eventually dumped it for a Baja Designs modified Stryker. Still haven't designed the wind deflection tho...

I would first design a mounting clamp system to the forks directly. two mounts on each side. Aluminum fitting with simple hose clamp similar to Baja Designs race lights mounts. From this you could easily get the rigidly you will need to support the fairing. Pavement riding is not the best test once you get a design working. Off road you will find every flaw in your designs; cable placement, light bracket mounts, connections to the brackets, etc. Build your first prototype in cardboard with drywall mud, yea drywall mud, mixed with Elmers glue. It is easy to shape and can be painted and polished far easier than bondo to make you mold. I built several parts this way for vacuum molding and fiberglass molds back in the 80's for bullet fairings and storage boxes on knee draggers. Its also much cheaper when you toss your design out when it doesn't have the look you want. Also consider LED lights from Baja Designs instead of HID's. Far lighter making for less issues off road. The Stryker light works very well.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:44 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Motomochila View Post
My Lynx attaches to the lower clamp and the bar mounts. I had to fab up a completely new mounting system to hold the fairing in place. Way too much wobble and rattle in the dirt. I eventually dumped it for a Baja Designs modified Stryker. Still haven't designed the wind deflection tho...

I would first design a mounting clamp system to the forks directly. two mounts on each side. Aluminum fitting with simple hose clamp similar to Baja Designs race lights mounts. From this you could easily get the rigidly you will need to support the fairing. Pavement riding is not the best test once you get a design working. Off road you will find every flaw in your designs; cable placement, light bracket mounts, connections to the brackets, etc. Build your first prototype in cardboard with drywall mud, yea drywall mud, mixed with Elmers glue. It is easy to shape and can be painted and polished far easier than bondo to make you mold. I built several parts this way for vacuum molding and fiberglass molds back in the 80's for bullet fairings and storage boxes on knee draggers. Its also much cheaper when you toss your design out when it doesn't have the look you want. Also consider LED lights from Baja Designs instead of HID's. Far lighter making for less issues off road. The Stryker light works very well.
That's some really good input. Thanks man! What does the Elmers glue do to the drywall mud? And what proportions would you say is a good starting point for the mix?

I'm also starting to turn towards fiberglass instead of carbon fiber considering the cost of carbon fiber mesh and the probability of me screwing it up the first few tries...
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:55 AM   #22
Motomochila
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Drywall mud and glue is the cheap version of modeling clay. I attach to wire mesh. Once you get shape you can add more glue to your mix to get a harder surface to sand and paint. The painted surface should be hard enough to apply fiberglass mold to. Ratios are trial and error based on how wet your mud is initially. I use lacquer to get a hard finish that I polish before applying my mold release and then gel coat.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:48 PM   #23
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I like this members solution


more about it here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=823479


Whatever route you go, best of luck with it.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:33 PM   #24
full of days
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What about the rally raid EVO2 kit?? Bracket and fairing is already proven and tested!
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:23 PM   #25
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What about the rally raid EVO2 kit?? Bracket and fairing is already proven and tested!
$$$
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:01 AM   #26
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I am all for the process of building your our stuff and yes doing a mold and pulling a part isn't rocket science but having acquired the stuff to be able to do it all and the make a few decent parts (not motorcycle related though) I would bet you will be in it two hundred dollars in stuff/supplies, not to mention your time. If you have endless time then I would say go for it. If not then maybe look at this one. http://www.globetrottin.com/Fairing-...ghts_p_22.html.

I have not used one or seen one in person but it seems along the lines of what you are after. Once you figure in the cost of the lights, brackets and dimmer you are right close to your cost on supplies alone and it is plug and play on the KTM it appears.

Good luck which ever way you go!
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