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Old 04-27-2013, 05:57 PM   #31
Umarth OP
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Location: Tramping arround the world for a bit with Big O
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaincadre View Post
1.Can you take it to a shop with a dyno?
2. Mines runs at 4 bars and has had no problems(actually i think that is what its supposed to be)
3.Think you,ve answered your own question.
If I can avoid the Dino, I'd be a happy camper. But if it's not fixed by next Friday I'll take it to a pro to set it up properly.

As for point three, the question was more could it weep had I ever torqued it. I don't want to over-over torque it, as we all know the woes that can bring.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #32
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
If I can avoid the Dino, I'd be a happy camper. But if it's not fixed by next Friday I'll take it to a pro to set it up properly.

As for point three, the question was more could it weep had I ever torqued it. I don't want to over-over torque it, as we all know the woes that can bring.
Did you apply sealant to the base gasket area around the cam chain tunnel ? Is that the area where it is leaking from? The manual calls for this added measure ... I have never used a torque wrench on the base nuts, instead I just give them a good snugging with a banana shaped box end...

Did you have the carb apart during your rebuild? Is the washer still in place on the slide? Is the needle in the middle position? If your choke enricher was a problem it would kill the bike at the bottom of the rev range, float height would also have an effect down low, but if the fuel level in the bowl is too low it may starve the engine at higher revs... I would have good look at your jet needle for something out of whack and also the emulsion tube {needle jet} perhaps the air passage ways are blocked... Make sure your plug cap is screwed on tight as sometime an electrical issue can feel like carburation problems..

4 bars is normal operating temperature so that is one less worry for you...
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:28 PM   #33
bmwktmbill
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Umarth,
Did you try retightening the cylinder bolts, I'd get on them again.

As for the carb Like the G-man says, make sure the neede is in the right position and that it is assembled in the correct sequence as per the parts manual.

be sure the carb is tight to the engine and there are no tears in the diaphragm.
bill
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:46 AM   #34
mountaincadre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
If I can avoid the Dino, I'd be a happy camper. But if it's not fixed by next Friday I'll take it to a pro to set it up properly.

As for point three, the question was more could it weep had I ever torqued it. I don't want to over-over torque it, as we all know the woes that can bring.
Just mentioned the dyno mate as mine was running a wee bit rich and i was having lots of problems trying to get it sweet, took it to the relatively local dyno shop(they have there own race team) and was very pleasantly surprised by how little it cost, and the difference it made(very little vibes and 5hp more) i know what your feeling with the head nuts, can ye borrow/beg/steal a tool that will do the job?
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:23 PM   #35
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Joy!

The update so far:

1. the new battery was the problem for the bike not starting. Put a new one in and starts on first roll of piston. hourrah! On the plus side, now I know exactly what to look for in diagnosing if a battery is dead. So +1 for experience.
2. Warmed up the engine to opperating temp and then tightened the base cylinder bolts. No more weeping! happy happy! :)
3. Engine stays in the 4bars temp wise, fan starts at 5th bar and from what I'm reading that all good. Slowly getting there!
4. Carb still not properly adjusted, as I've yet to fiddle with it. So at the moment, top speed is 110kph with the wind at my back. I'll get on that this comming thirsday. If I can't adjust it properly by the end of the week end, I'll have a pro do it for me.

Was fealing the itch to put some miles on it to see if all,other than carb, was good so I road it back to city, about a 100km ride. As I entered the city, I noticed that the clutch was getting really soft. And went limp as a 90 year old deprived of viagra, about a click away from home.

After some reseach, finally understood why my oil reservoir was leaking last year. The clutch slave cylinder's o'ring was dead. Which gave me a taste of things to come as I was far from my work shop; I changed the o-ring and the engine oil as it was contaminated, on the street down town of montreal no less. One cop car slowed down to check on the odd man sitting on the sidewalk beside a bike butguess they figured the junkies right arround the corner where of more interest to them...

So, at the moment, bike appears fully functional, just down on power.
This thing is really starting to feel like it's leaving on the trip in just a few weeks!!

Oh and I used the HID at night for the first time also. OMG! what a difference!!!! Was not sure they where worth the hassle; I'm sold now! All future bike will be treated to them hence forth...

I'm sure more problems and questions are comming, but for now: thanks guys for all your invaluable help! Without you, I'd never have been able to do this...
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:49 AM   #36
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Maintenance

Hi Umarth. Heading over to Fort St Eugene Thursday around 9:45 AM to give Henrik a hand. Pop over if you are in the hood.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:25 AM   #37
Umarth OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoriley View Post
Hi Umarth. Heading over to Fort St Eugene Thursday around 9:45 AM to give Henrik a hand. Pop over if you are in the hood.
You going up on your bike? If so, I could join you on the way up to the Fort...
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:08 PM   #38
Umarth OP
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Fort St-Eugene

Went to Fort Saint-Eugene to try and resolve my throttle response issue. And even thought Motoriley lent his talents (thanks by the way!), we were not able to resolve the issue.
We cleaned the carb just to be sure but it was already very clean. We readjusted the float level. It was a bit off but not by much. We did fond that the air/fuel ratio screw had two rubber washers, so we removed one and really where hoping that that was the issue. But no, it was not. We tried it without the air filter but that did nothing. We gave an extra half turn in both direction on the A/F screw also without any real change.
The needle is set on the third slot (if you count from the stubby end of the needle). Gonna put it in the middle tonight and see if that makes any diff. But I donít expect it will make a drastic change.
Checked the diaphragm for any issues and its in perfect shape. All the rest of the carb parts where replaced this winter. The main jet is a 152.5, which i believe is the stock setting. The bike is 100% stock so I guessing that should be the proper jetting.
Tested the bike a lot more today and I'll revise my description. Initially I thought it was fine until hitting full throttle but itís not. It lacks power all through the range throttle and rpm range. Even in dirt, launching the bike and getting the wheel to spin in 1st gear you need to rev it and dump the clutch.
But between 4000 and 5000 rpm, that where going wot kills it. The engine just bogs down and actually slows down until you let off a bit. Iíd say the last 1/8th off of wot is where there is absolutely no power to be had.
Could it be the cdi? Or the spark? The engine has no trouble running right up to 7000rpm. And does not stumble as long as you donít open the throttle to much. So in my mind anyway, the spark seems to be doing its job.
How about the fuel pump? Do they tend to go bad? Are they serviceable? Should crack it open and check something?
Iím gonna re-adjust my valves tonight. Hopping that i did something really bad last time.
That and moving the clip on the needle to the middle position. If that donít work, i just donít know what else to do to fix it. And just to make matters worse, racing seasons starting so the only mechanic that I have faith in for working on my bike is swamped with work, so I have no idea when heíll have time to look into this issue. Maybe I could get him to just go over the carb and set it perfectly and see from there.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:48 PM   #39
Umarth OP
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Oh, and we checked the spark plug to see if the engine was running rich/lean and spark plug color was a nice dry tan color...
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:00 PM   #40
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Hey, how old is the fuel you are using??

Old gas might let an engine fire up, but I have had bikes with old gas not be able to pull my fat arse down the road??

Cheers
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:12 PM   #41
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
Went to Fort Saint-Eugene to try and resolve my throttle response issue. And even thought Motoriley lent his talents (thanks by the way!), we were not able to resolve the issue.
We cleaned the carb just to be sure but it was already very clean. We readjusted the float level. It was a bit off but not by much. We did fond that the air/fuel ratio screw had two rubber washers, so we removed one and really where hoping that that was the issue. But no, it was not. We tried it without the air filter but that did nothing. We gave an extra half turn in both direction on the A/F screw also without any real change.
The needle is set on the third slot (if you count from the stubby end of the needle). Gonna put it in the middle tonight and see if that makes any diff. But I don’t expect it will make a drastic change.
Checked the diaphragm for any issues and its in perfect shape. All the rest of the carb parts where replaced this winter. The main jet is a 152.5, which i believe is the stock setting. The bike is 100% stock so I guessing that should be the proper jetting.
Tested the bike a lot more today and I'll revise my description. Initially I thought it was fine until hitting full throttle but it’s not. It lacks power all through the range throttle and rpm range. Even in dirt, launching the bike and getting the wheel to spin in 1st gear you need to rev it and dump the clutch.
But between 4000 and 5000 rpm, that where going wot kills it. The engine just bogs down and actually slows down until you let off a bit. I’d say the last 1/8th off of wot is where there is absolutely no power to be had.
Could it be the cdi? Or the spark? The engine has no trouble running right up to 7000rpm. And does not stumble as long as you don’t open the throttle to much. So in my mind anyway, the spark seems to be doing its job.
How about the fuel pump? Do they tend to go bad? Are they serviceable? Should crack it open and check something?
I’m gonna re-adjust my valves tonight. Hopping that i did something really bad last time.
That and moving the clip on the needle to the middle position. If that don’t work, i just don’t know what else to do to fix it. And just to make matters worse, racing seasons starting so the only mechanic that I have faith in for working on my bike is swamped with work, so I have no idea when he’ll have time to look into this issue. Maybe I could get him to just go over the carb and set it perfectly and see from there.
Does the needle have a metal washer on it between the nylon washer and the slide?

Like mentioned is the fuel fresh?

Try running a fuel line from the tank directly to the carb {bypassing the fuel pump} and see if that makes a difference...

Lastly are your valves clearances correctly set? oops, I see you are going to address that...

gunnerbuck screwed with this post 05-02-2013 at 08:19 PM
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:16 PM   #42
Umarth OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
Hey, how old is the fuel you are using??

Old gas might let an engine fire up, but I have had bikes with old gas not be able to pull my fat arse down the road??

Cheers
Fresh and on second tank. So I can rule out the fuel quality. But yeah, had hoped it was just that...
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:24 PM   #43
Umarth OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Does the needle have a metal washer on it between the nylon washer and the slide?

Like mentioned is the fuel fresh?

Try running a fuel line from the tank directly to the carb {bypassing the fuel pump} and see if that makes a difference...

Lastly are your valves clearances correctly set?
Yup, the washer is there. It sits between the clip and slide. The nylon washer being on the other side of the clip. Correct?

Fuel is fresh.

The valves, well I adjusted them for the first time after the engine rebuild. Was my first time so quite possible I miss understood the procedure. Will re' set them tomorrow morning. The bike idles fine so my understanding is that it's a point for not horribly set valves?

One more thing I noticed. Before the engine rebuild and throttle response issues, when I started the bike using the 'choke', the rpm would slowly rise and evenly hit 3k + rpm if left unchecked. Now, it goes from 1500 to 2000, very daintily and does not rise above that.

Oh, and I'm wondering, could it be a timing issue? When I put the engine back together I might have screwd up the timing. If I had, would that explain my symptoms? And, more importantly, how would I check the timing? I know the the marks on the camshaft and timing lined up at both marks, but does that guarantee that the timing is correct?
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:56 PM   #44
bmwktmbill
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When riding if you open the choke at WOT or at 3/4 throttle what happens?

There is also a washer on the fuel screw to protect the o-ring from the spring.

With the engine off can you raise the slide completely with your finger?

I think you should post your problem here...Mikuni BST40 bible thread.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=mikuni

Derek is a very sharp guy

bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:51 PM   #45
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
Yup, the washer is there. It sits between the clip and slide. The nylon washer being on the other side of the clip. Correct?
The clip should be sandwiched between 2 nylon washers as follows: top nylon washer, then the clip, then the bottom nylon washer, then the steel washer and then the slide...
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