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Old 04-25-2013, 08:56 PM   #16
Scootern29
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A new carb? These things are so simple it is not rocket science. Set the carb in Pinesol or a chem dip and clean out all the passages. I agree with buls4evr. The crank seals are more than likely hard and need replaced. They are not pliable anymore. It is cheap insurance to get it to run right.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:32 PM   #17
Valleyrider
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
I do not agree with Twinshocker in this case. Crankseals that old have pretty much turned to hard plastic at the seal face. If you can replace them ,do so and save yourself hassles later on. May likely be a difference in philosophy as I believe you might as well eliminate that problem BEFORE that ethanol eats them up. Seals do not age gracefully in 2 strokes that have been sitting around for decades.
Agree!!! Everytime I "Assume" that the seal will work, the lips get ripped off with the first few revolutions of the crank. Trans seals don't do much better. Replace the seals and don't look back.

Not sure why you would have to replace the carb....
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:15 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Valleyrider View Post
Agree!!! Everytime I "Assume" that the seal will work, the lips get ripped off with the first few revolutions of the crank. Trans seals don't do much better. Replace the seals and don't look back.

Not sure why you would have to replace the carb....
If the crank seals are not leaking or damaged in any way replacing them is pointless. Pressure testing the crankcase will show whether the seals are leaking or not, and will save time and expense which might not be required.

Contrary to popular belief carbs which have been unused for some while may need to be replaced, if very fine internal passages are blocked, and the blockages cannot be removed by something like ultrasonic cleaning.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:26 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
If the crank seals are not leaking or damaged in any way replacing them is pointless. Pressure testing the crankcase will show whether the seals are leaking or not, and will save time and expense which might not be required.

Contrary to popular belief carbs which have been unused for some while may need to be replaced, if very fine internal passages are blocked, and the blockages cannot be removed by something like ultrasonic cleaning.
Not going to get in a pissing match here. That being said, there are "If's" and "May's" in your advice given here. We all know that diagnostics online fall short of hands on first hand experience.
The suggestions that Scootern29, Buls4evr and I have made are based on our experience with 2 stroke motors. You bring up some good points and testing procedures, but a 40 year old TC/TS100 could use a little freshening up with new seals. If they aren't leaking when tested today, they surely will be leaking in the near future given the properties of todays gas....
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:28 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Valleyrider View Post
Not going to get in a pissing match here. That being said, there are "If's" and "May's" in your advice given here. We all know that diagnostics online fall short of hands on first hand experience.
The suggestions that Scootern29, Buls4evr and I have made are based on our experience with 2 stroke motors. You bring up some good points and testing procedures, but a 40 year old TC/TS100 could use a little freshening up with new seals. If they aren't leaking when tested today, they surely will be leaking in the near future given the properties of todays gas....
Careful twinshocker is the pissing match king

I agree with ya Willie . My ty175 sat for 20+ years after a little service it ran great. About 40miles into its first real trail ride in decades the flywheel side seal started sucking air and melted here down. About a $125 mistake. Next old bike is getting seals ASAP . It was so easy to replace I was pissed I didn't do it right off the bat.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:13 AM   #21
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Suzi bits

http://www.classicsuzukiparts.nl/2strokemenu/?lang=en

NE
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:09 AM   #22
Valleyrider
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Originally Posted by JeffS77 View Post
Careful twinshocker is the pissing match king

I agree with ya Willie . My ty175 sat for 20+ years after a little service it ran great. About 40miles into its first real trail ride in decades the flywheel side seal started sucking air and melted here down. About a $125 mistake. Next old bike is getting seals ASAP . It was so easy to replace I was pissed I didn't do it right off the bat.
Yea Jeff, went and looked at some of the threads he started. Troll!
Asks a question and then gives his opinion over and over.
Hope he finds the correct oil for his pre-mix in his trials bike.... someday.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:31 AM   #23
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Yea Jeff, went and looked at some of the threads he started. Troll!
Asks a question and then gives his opinion over and over.
Hope he finds the correct oil for his pre-mix in his trials bike.... someday.
Weird that you feel that the definition of a troll is largely related to the fact that the said "troll" almost certainly has far wider and more accurate knowledge of 2T motors than you do?

I guess the net has afforded the opportunity for all sorts of clueless bullshitters to set themselves up as instant experts, and these types tend to get a little annoyed when lack of first hand experience and no info on the net for them to cut and paste, shows them in their true light!
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:41 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Valleyrider View Post
Not going to get in a pissing match here. That being said, there are "If's" and "May's" in your advice given here. We all know that diagnostics online fall short of hands on first hand experience.
The suggestions that Scootern29, Buls4evr and I have made are based on our experience with 2 stroke motors. You bring up some good points and testing procedures, but a 40 year old TC/TS100 could use a little freshening up with new seals. If they aren't leaking when tested today, they surely will be leaking in the near future given the properties of todays gas....
Unless you have a strong desire to waste time and money, there is no real need to replace crank seals which are perfectly serviceable, in the hope of curing a problem which in many cases will not be related to crank seals at all.

Its very easy to test crank seals, and it will take maybe an hour to put together a cheap home made pressure tester set up, which in many cases will confirm that the seals are good.

First thing to check on bikes which have been standing for some while and have a good spark and compression is the carb. Again very easy to do this.......... simply remove the air cleaner hose, squirt aerosol brake or carb cleaner into the carb mouth, and see if the bike starts.

If it does start it will obviously only run momentarily, but this will confirm 100% the problem is with the carb, and has nothing to do with seals or anything else suggested by the net based experts.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:51 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the advise. (I think) I've got a line on some crank seals, and the advise to use a local bearing suppler vise a bike shop is very helpful. I got it from here. Thanks everyone.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:15 PM   #26
Valleyrider
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Weird that you feel that the definition of a troll is largely related to the fact that the said "troll" almost certainly has far wider and more accurate knowledge of 2T motors than you do?

I guess the net has afforded the opportunity for all sorts of clueless bullshitters to set themselves up as instant experts, and these types tend to get a little annoyed when lack of first hand experience and no info on the net for them to cut and paste, shows them in their true light!
I guess I better check my credentials again....
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:50 PM   #27
Scootern29
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Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Weird that you feel that the definition of a troll is largely related to the fact that the said "troll" almost certainly has far wider and more accurate knowledge of 2T motors than you do?

I guess the net has afforded the opportunity for all sorts of clueless bullshitters to set themselves up as instant experts, and these types tend to get a little annoyed when lack of first hand experience and no info on the net for them to cut and paste, shows them in their true light!

Why don't you go be a dipshit somewhere else.
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:37 PM   #28
Twin-shocker
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I guess I better check my credentials again....
I think the quality of your BS tells all we need to know about your "credentials"!
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:37 AM   #29
BigVicProton
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What did you find in the end with your crank seals? I think I have the same problem...bike runs ok but not with the cover over the carb on.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:04 AM   #30
jwalters OP
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What did you find in the end with your crank seals? I think I have the same problem...bike runs ok but not with the cover over the carb on.
Ive been working overseas for most of the year. So ill tackle it during the long Minnesota winter. I've going tp replace the left side crank seal and hope for the best.

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