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Old 04-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #136
brittrunyon OP
R 100 GS F 650 GS
 
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Location: The High Desert of New Mexico
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Good reminder to double check the buttoning up procedures.
Almost forgot to put the front wheel on.
The bean can is approximately in the middle of the range.

Geez! Don't scare me Bill.

"SS" you right.
........I did time it to the S mark, just had a grammatical brain fart.
........as time allows I'll visit your suggestion of "fine" tuning the timing
........can that 6 degrees advance be done in the timing widow?
........but right now I'm swimming in a bathtub of satisfaction
I had to make some minor adjustment to the carbs, it was idling too high & too lean, do the double check, then the ride.

It's a totally different machine!
.......starts easier
.......idles smoother
.......actually has power

The wife's out riding now, after all, it's her bike.

Next to go on is a clutch cable (unknown history of present one)
....................Last Saturday, the clutch cable (27k miles) snapped while I was riding the GS and I almost went down.

Thanks for all the guidance & good will.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:17 PM   #137
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The little lady's back from her ride with a big beautiful smile.
"Holy Crap!" says she's " What a difference! That was awesome, I'm buying a round of ice cream for everyone!"
"2 scoops for Airhead Wrangle" she says, 'cause he had it figured out 1 hour & 5 minutes after the original post.
I feel lucky tonight!
(I said that)
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brittrunyon screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 07:42 PM
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:58 AM   #138
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It had to come apart whether it was a badly worn chain or mistimed but I was adjusting the valves on my bike and realized that I forgot to mention an absolutely positive means of diagnosing a mistimed cam before you take it apart. Put the engine of the OT mark and find the cylinder that is on the compression stroke. Now go around to the other side that has the both valves open in overlap. Timed straight up? Both valve adjusters are even. Mistimed? One valve adjuster is sticking out a lot further than the other. Very noticeable on a cam advanced 3 degrees, let alone one that is a whole tooth off. Robtg mentioned that trick to me years ago in regards to telling whether of not your 336 was advanced without getting a degree wheel and dial indicator out.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:09 PM   #139
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With a cam off one tooth, how many degrees would that be?
10-12 or 15-20 ?
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:27 PM   #140
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I looked at the pics again. I think you can say the timing was off by one tooth on the crank gear. I'm not sure how many teeth there are on the crank gear but I estimated 24 (can adjust figure if you have actual number). Therefor one tooth of the crank gear is equal to 15* of crank timing off.

I guess this would also mean 7.5* of cam timing off.

This sounds right to me. But I'm not always the swiftest at math.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:17 PM   #141
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What Next?

I set the valves, which resulted in a great running machine
Someone had used sealant on the valve cover gaskets, hinting perhaps they leaked.
After cleaning the mating surface of the heads/valve cover, with soft wire brush & carb cleaner, installing new gaskets, both sides leak

Something ain't flat!
I'm searching for a sheet of glass to check the flatness of the covers.
Searching for related articles on solution.
Can valve cover gaskets be put on wrong?
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:58 PM   #142
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
What Next?

I set the valves, which resulted in a great running machine
Someone had used sealant on the valve cover gaskets, hinting perhaps they leaked.
After cleaning the mating surface of the heads/valve cover, with soft wire brush & carb cleaner, installing new gaskets, both sides leak

Something ain't flat!
I'm searching for a sheet of glass to check the flatness of the covers.
Searching for related articles on solution.
Can valve cover gaskets be put on wrong?
Classic case of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. Valve cover gaskets fit that mantra perfectly. Never take valve cover gaskets off an airhead unless you HAVE to!

They shouldn't leak at all but they often do after replacing the gaskets because the head warps and the gasket conforms to the head warping. A new gasket doesn't. In my experience it is almost never the valve covers and almost always the head valve cover gasket surface warping. The fix is getting the head machined. That is if new gaskets continue to leak. The best fix until machine work is done is IMO stacking two stock gaskets with sealant in between the gaskets.

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Old 04-30-2013, 03:26 AM   #143
chasbmw
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I just use a smear of grease on both sides of the gasket and it seals well, probably won't help if the head or gasket cover are warped.
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:03 PM   #144
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Thumb

The Scoop:

Both gaskets when I removed the covers were in sad shape, both had tears. That's why I replaced them with new ones, but as posted above, with the new gaskets they both leaked not just wept as before.

I chose Plaka's suggestion because I didn't have 4 new gaskets (to put 2 on each side), only 2.
I used Ultra Blue Silicon sealer on both side of the gaskets, sprayed the valve cover gasket with silicon grease & installed the covers "lightly" as suggested.
Then a day & a half later warmed the covers with a heat gun and tightened the 3 valve cover nuts. The center cap nut only to 10 ftlbs.

Then a short 15 mile ride with excellent results. No drips or weeps..
Time will tell and I'll see how the covers come off the next valve adjustment.
Maybe I'll have 4 new gaskets at ready.

My better half is happy again!

Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:51 AM   #145
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Here I go again into unknown territory...............

The bike died on a ride & had to trailer home, parked & did a few basic tests.
.........was getting fuel
.........battery was drained
........no "GEN" light when key is on

I trickle charged the battery for 1 1/2 days, the bike sat for 3 days and the battery held a charge at 12.8.

Now finding.....
........no "GEN" light when key is on & the bulb is good (I switched the "OIL" light bulb, which works, with the "GEN" bulb, now the "OIL" light still works & the "GEN" does not)
........battery holds at 12.8
........with the bike running the volts drop to below 12 at the battery>>>>>no charging going on.

Clymers states to now test the regulator
.......disconnect 3 pin from regulator & jump D+ (blue wire) & DF (blackwire) etc.

Now to admit my ignorance, blaming it on my unfamiliarity with this bike.
Where's the voltage regulator.
or
Is there something else going on as indicated by the fact that the "GEN" light does not work even with a good bulb?

I researched charging issues & found twice where it stated that if the "GEN" light bulb is out the bike will not charge, is this true?
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:00 AM   #146
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Regulator is under the tank, rider's right.

Yes, the Gen bulb is part of the circuit.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:14 AM   #147
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
I researched charging issues & found twice where it stated that if the "GEN" light bulb is out the bike will not charge, is this true?
TRUE

That's the one big design fault with the airhead charging system - the charge light. If it burns out, the charging system stops working. Your first move should be replacing that bulb and I'll bet that'll have it working again.

EDIT: Oops. Didn't read your post closely enough. So it sound like there's a problem elsewhere in the circuit - either in the regulator or you've got an open winding in your coil.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:57 PM   #148
brittrunyon OP
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So for sure the bulb is GOOD!
.........but it does not light with the ignition on

With the ignition on, I have power to #3 #7 #8 & #10 (image below)


Anyone know what powers what on this electrical connection?

On another front:
bypassing the regulator by connecting the 2 blue wires to the black, I get 12.3 & going down at the battery & going down.



At rest the battery is 13v. (on & off trickle charger as I work)
With ignition on battery is 12.6 (charger off)
When running battery is 12.3 (charger off)

Pulling the front cover...........................
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:18 PM   #149
brittrunyon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
TRUE

That's the one big design fault with the airhead charging system - the charge light. If it burns out, the charging system stops working. Your first move should be replacing that bulb and I'll bet that'll have it working again.

EDIT: Oops. Didn't read your post closely enough. So it sound like there's a problem elsewhere in the circuit - either in the regulator or you've got an open winding in your coil.
So if bypassing the regulator didn't change things...........

What does open winding in the coil mean?

I tested the coils 3 weeks ago & if I did the test right........4.5k ohms
........ metered from where the plug wire goes into the coil, to the upper wire connector.........


EDIT: just checked the coils & both are 4.68 ohms
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brittrunyon screwed with this post 05-13-2013 at 02:25 PM
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:28 PM   #150
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I think he means an open rotor winding.
Correct. He does.
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