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Old 04-30-2013, 05:40 PM   #16
One Less Harley
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you don't need a puller, use a mig welder around the race and it pops right out. or a long punch.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:19 PM   #17
Trials/Rider OP
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Here's whare Im at currently...I opened the manual at looked at the procedure and it shows my GS doesnt use tapered bearings. Looks almost like a normal sealed berring? The next page shows the tapered??
Can / should I upgrade to tapered bearings?
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:05 AM   #18
JZed
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R100GS Steering Bearings

Trials
As was said previously in the thread, your GS already has tapered roller bearings in the steering stem. You might be able to get by with pulling the forks, cleaning the old grease out of the bearings, applying a good wheel bearing grease to the existing bearings. The surface finish of the outer races in the steering tube on the frame will tell you if the bearings need to be replaced. Replace them if the race surface is burnished. There is probably a thread on ADV rider on that. If you get new bearings get them from your local supply house.

Take good care of your GS. They are a great machine.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:34 PM   #19
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*update*

I got the the steering tube off the bike and found a few things....
First, the top triple clamp was loose- and probably was the source of the rattle when driving on bumpy dirts roads.

Second, the bearings were over tightened to the point that it was difficult to turn without the weight of the tire/forks/handlebars installed.

Third, it does intact have tapered bearings.

So I cleaned everything thoroughly (lower race was cleaned on the stem without removing).

After careful examination you can discern some lines in the race with visual inspection. (see Picture)

If you feel the lower with your finger you can feel “slight” spots that resemble an octagon, but with the dry bearing pushing hard you don’t really notice this.

I’m thinking that with the weight of the tire/forks/leverage of the handlebars you’re not going to notice if I reuse this.
The only revisitation form just replacing everything is the lack of pullers/installers. I have large brass ones (punches) that I can drive the race out, just need the installers.

Thoughts?





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Old 05-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #20
bmweuro
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The bearing races look worn. You can always reassemble everything and see how it feels. The proper preload is the handlebars should fall from side to side with a little bit of resistance.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #21
disston
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Those bearings are shot. They should be replaced. It will be noticeable if you reuse those bearings.

I understand you don't have a welder and no friends with welders and the welding trick to pull the bearing race, although a neat trick, is impossible with out a welder.

You could punch the races out with a punch if you could get behind the races. The construction is such that anything put into the tube misses the race. There is a way to get the races out with a screwdriver. Buy a large round shank screwdriver, flat tip. Bend the tip, it's helpful to have a vice for this. Bend the tip enough so that when placed in the tube the tip of the screwdriver reaches the back side of the race. Bang with large hammer. The screwdriver sometimes bends more as you bang the race out. Usually there is enough use from one screwdriver to get two races out. Sometimes you will need several screwdrivers. If you have the ones with hardened tips they will not work as well because they break.

Use the old races as driver to install the new bearing races. One race is flush and the other is slightly recessed. The one that is recessed can still be installed and when the race installer gets stuck bang it out by beating sideways.

What I have described is crude work. You take the chance of doing damage using a big hammer and chisels in this operation. The tools sold by Cycle Works will do a neater job with less chance of damage.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:25 PM   #22
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I knew you would say that....
I'll swing by the bearing shop and pick up a set. Is the upper and lower the same? (I didn't remove the bearing from the lower stem yet).

Also,I discovered moments ago, (and why I had to drive the stem down for removal) is the stem is very tight so that the bearing will not slip-fit over the stem/seat.
At first I was thinking it was form the pounding or something that caused a burr. But a light sanding with some emery paper and it's still a NO GO!

I'm thinking it's supposed to be like a wheel spindle and be a slip fit? I don't know why this is so thight, but I believe this is the reason the steering tube was so tight. When it was assembled (factory? since it's 33K miles) it was torqued (or whatever method they used to tighten) and after the initial preload it doesn't back off? (how could it).
I'll wait until I get the new bearings before I worry too much about it. But I'm thinking it needs to be able to slide with only slight pressure.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:33 PM   #23
H96669
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Tap tap tap...races on the ground or in my case "carpet". Tool is just an old westward wrench modified with hacksaw and bench grinder. Been used a few times. Hammer is from great grandpa's farm.







Removing the bearing from the stem, cut the cage. Then should be enough room to push that race out with a chisel at the lip. Parts may need heat to facilitate removal.



As found...not that long ago. Darn POs/mechanics.

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Old 05-01-2013, 07:37 PM   #24
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[QUOTE=H96669;21313162]Tap tap tap...races on the ground or in my case "carpet". Tool is just an old westward wrench modified with hacksaw and bench grinder. Been used a few times. Hammer is from great grandpa's farm.




Removing the bearing from the stem, cut the cage. Then should be enough room to push that race out with a chisel at the lip. Parts may need heat to facilitate removal.



As found...not that long ago. Darn POs/mechanics.




I like your wrench idea!
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:38 PM   #25
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Replace!

The bearing faces are shot - if you have them correctly tightened at one point, you'll feel those lines in the faces as the bars are turned side to side.

The bearings are cheap .. considering your time in taking things apart. And reassembling.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:15 PM   #26
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You'll be surprised how much those little lines in the races hurt the handling of the bike.
They're a pain to knock out with with rough tools - had to wail on 'em pretty hard - but well worth the effort.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:07 AM   #27
ConKdeKello
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I made ​​a similar tool with a valve of the engine of an truck.
The filter is only for reference for the valve size.

http://subefotos.com/ver/?2715a01221...co.jpg#codigos
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:39 AM   #28
brittrunyon
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Good luck on the removal/installation of the bearings & races. Remember, heat/cold can be your friend.

I did mine a few years ago & used the above mentioned Cycle Works tool, it made it a breeze.
When it's all back together here's the link for proper "steering head adjustment" http://www.largiader.com/bearings/
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:16 AM   #29
Beemerboff
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If you are buying from a bearing shop get Timkin's and make certain there is M in the reference code.

The M denotes a bearing which can take an impact impact, and is a must .

Not all OEM BMW bearings are the correct grade, so no guarantee that matching OEM will get you the correct bearing. DAHIK.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:34 AM   #30
Rucksta
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Cold was mentioned earlier as your friend.

Cut through one side of the old shell to make an installation tool.

Remove new shell from freezer and insert into headstock by hand.
Tap the shell home with installation tool and hammer.

Install tool removes easily.
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