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Old 05-01-2013, 09:58 AM   #61
Mike Figielski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genka View Post
I have an idea why it leaked. When I went to Jim's I left the reinforcing collar at home, so we replaced the QDs without it. When I got home there were no leaks. I installed the collar the same day and didn't ride ofr day and a half. Maybe installing the collar somehow damaged the seal. Also it could be an issue with tolerances. My QD feels loose when I'm screwing it in.
Did your flange have cracks that were leaking? As Jim said take it all apart on the weekend, clean it well, apply sealant to the male threads and let set up a while. Put the clamp on snug but not totally tightened then screw in the female fitting hand tight plus a half turn approx with a wrench then tighten the clamp some more. let the whole thing sit as long as possible before pressurizing the system or starting the bike.
I have never had to take apart the female fitting to tighten it a half or 3/4 turn with a box wrench.
Mike
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:43 PM   #62
genka
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Before the upgrade I had some cracks, not no leaks. Even if with the clamp installed and tightened the female fitting goes in and out very easy. I'll try the tape today, and will seal permanently over the weekend. Probably my wrench is too bulky and this is why had to remove the lock.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:30 PM   #63
genka
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Three wraps of the yellow Teflon tape did the trick. The disconnect has been dry for several days. Can I leave it there as a permanent fix? Is it possible that the sealer is not better than the tape, and BMW used it because it was faster to assemble?
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:05 PM   #64
Spyker
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If I do not have any cracks on the flange and zero fuel leaks, is it still advisable to do the QD and boss clamps replacement?
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:26 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Spyker View Post
If I do not have any cracks on the flange and zero fuel leaks, is it still advisable to do the QD and boss clamps replacement?
I'm having it done on my bike as preventive maintenance. I had a plastic QD fail on my last BMW, an R1150RS, and I was lucky I did not get a nasty bonfire.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:26 PM   #66
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If I do not have any cracks on the flange and zero fuel leaks, is it still advisable to do the QD and boss clamps replacement?
QDs can snap without a warning, leaving you stranded. Cracks develop overtime and the fix can be postponed. But it is just $35 and 1 minute of work.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:42 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genka View Post
Three wraps of the yellow Teflon tape did the trick. The disconnect has been dry for several days. Can I leave it there as a permanent fix? Is it possible that the sealer is not better than the tape, and BMW used it because it was faster to assemble?

I doubt Mike would suggest this, but so long as you have fuel type tape, no reason to change it if it is working.

Jim
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:43 PM   #68
genka
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Jim, thanks. The tape was labeled as gas and oil resistant.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:14 PM   #69
alaninsea
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Thanks Jim

Thanks for the pictorial Jim.

Just finished mine this weekend on the '09 GS. Those BMW clamps are a PITA to take off though! Removing the clamps (x4) was the longest part of this project!

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Old 05-09-2013, 09:36 PM   #70
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Jim,

Replacing the OEM with BB products on 1150. I'm finding that the OEM plastic QDC spins within the fuel line however it doesn't want to come out...before I force it the wrong way how did you remove the old ones from the fuel lines..?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:53 AM   #71
Mike Figielski
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Jim,

Replacing the OEM with BB products on 1150. I'm finding that the OEM plastic QDC spins within the fuel line however it doesn't want to come out...before I force it the wrong way how did you remove the old ones from the fuel lines..?

Thanks
Try taking a small awl or tiny screw driver and get it between the hose and fitting. Pry the hose outward a little and squirt some WD40 or the like in there. Do this around the circumference of the hose. Once it is lubricated well it should be easier to remove. Hope this helps.
Mike
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:03 AM   #72
Ron from BC
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Thanks Mike...looking forward to installing all 4 that you sent. No more PITA fishing that crossover line.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:44 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Mike Figielski View Post
Try taking a small awl or tiny screw driver and get it between the hose and fitting. Pry the hose outward a little and squirt some WD40 or the like in there. Do this around the circumference of the hose. Once it is lubricated well it should be easier to remove. Hope this helps.
Mike
Yup, that is how I do it.

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Old 05-10-2013, 01:01 PM   #74
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Thank you Jim, I order the collars and the retrofit QDs as a precautionary measure. BB should give you a commission. They shipped the same day and I'll do the work next weekend.

Peace of mind is definitely worth paying for in this case.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:37 PM   #75
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QD Change Pictorial!

As promised, I changed out my quick disconnects and added the clamps on the female bosses for the quick disconnects. The following is a pictorial on how it was done. Please feel free to use it, or not, for your personal use.


Needless to say, I had a full tank of gas when I decided to do this. I used an old male QD and length of hose to drain the tank.

On the 05-07 there is a QD on both the left and right sides, two QDs on the 08-09 left side. The process is the same no matter which bike you have.


Starting on the left side, remove the large side cover, then the fuel pump cover.


Pull the power plug to the fuel controller and the plug to the tank level gage. The pop the plastic disconnect loose.


You can see the cracks on mine. It is not leaking (yet)!


Use a 19mm wrench to remove the female QD.

There will be fuel floating in the intake, and some of the sealant will mix with it.


Remove the fuel and clean the sealant. I used an old acid brush cut tight and shortened the handle to clean it.


This is clean enough to move forward. Notice the cracks are fairly far down the boss.


Pre-tighten the clamp so there is just a little slack in the nut/bolt combination, then squeeze it over the plastic boss. Snug it lightly. This is a 2.5mm Allen and a 5.5mm socket or wrench.


Use some of the supplied sealant to cover the threads of the new female QD as shown. It doesnt need to be excessive, just this much will do. (Let it sit at least 10 minutes to firm up.)


Thread the female QD in and snug it down semi-firmly. Remember, this is plastic you are threading into, and it has sealant. Do NOT over tighten it.

Once you have the QD snugged down, tighten the clamp a bit more. No need to tighten it more than the QD, just semi-firmly. (If you are a gorilla, use two fingers to snug it down!)



I have only a few photos of the next parts.

Use a small standard screwdriver to spread the factory hose clamp. Work it back and forth until it has enough slack to slide the clamp down the hose.


Then take a straight pick and slide it into the male QD between the QD and the hose. (This is critical to loosen up the hose and allow it to come off.) Work it all the way around, then grab the hose with a pair of pliers (I used thick needle nose) and the QD with a pair of standard pliers. Twist and pull until they separate.

Note: If the hose shows any signs of cracking or dry rot, replace it with the appropriate fuel line.

Press in the new male QD, put the new clamp on first, then firmly snug the clamp on the hose. Make sure that you have the QD properly oriented before you tighten it down.


Press in the new male QD to the female QD and install the two electrical plugs.

If you have two in the left side, do the second one before mating the male and female sides and plugging in the electrical plugs.

Note: Completing the right side QD it is critical that you make sure the fuel level is lower than the plug.

If you have right side plugs, please read on.


Stock QDs on the left side. You can see the cracks in the white plastic plainly.

The process is the same as the left side.


Unscrew the female QD. Use a 19mm wrench to loosen and remove the female QD.


The cracks are deep, as you can see there is even air showing through the crack at the 4:00 position. Fortunately this is a return, so less pressure causing leaks.


Do the same as previously described: Work off the old hose clamp then hose. Then install the new QD, clamp it on, and reinstall it on the female QD.


Close-up of the newly installed QDs.

Once both are installed and connected you can fill the tank back up. Non-pressure test will show leaks on the right side if done incorrectly.

Once the non-pressure test shows no leaks, start the bike and check the pressure side (left side) for leaks. Double-check the right side as well.


These are the tools, and old parts, from my change out.

If no leaks, reinstall the fuel pump cover. Then the side covers. You are done.

Jim

Where did you get this kit, and did it in fact come with the 90 degree male quick connects?

Thanks,
Jb
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