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Old 05-07-2013, 08:47 PM   #1126
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I have found that type of extraction to be more easily done by pulling the bike sideways. I start by pulling the front up and then lay it on its side. Then a 90* turn gets it on top of the goo. After that I drag the back end towards shore.

Sometimes it takes a few cycles but it beats trying to go forward or backward.

YMMV
Thanks for the tip. That sounds like a much easier way. I just used brute force to get it out. It worked... But left me sore, and doing that way is an easy way to pull my back.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:40 AM   #1127
8gv
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Originally Posted by max384 View Post
Thanks for the tip. That sounds like a much easier way. I just used brute force to get it out. It worked... But left me sore, and doing that way is an easy way to pull my back.
My brute force is with my get up and go...they both got up and went.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:49 AM   #1128
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:29 PM   #1129
nnamssorxela
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Counter Shaft Clip?

I recently picked up a 1996 KLR 250 that I bought taken apart in boxes. I think I've done well putting everything back together, but a couple things are still throwing me off, especially with the front sprocket.

The parts fiche for my year shows some sort of splined washer that bolts to the sprocket. It doesn't appear that I have this style, but a clip that snaps over the counter shaft. There is also supposed to be a collar/spacer and oring behind the sprocket according to the '96 fiche.

How far does the collar go down onto the shaft? I appear to have a collar of sorts on the shaft now, but I was unable to pull it off with my hands and I didn't want to mar it up with tools.

Is what I have in the photos all I need for assembly? What keeps the sprocket from sliding up and down the shaft or eventually wallowing itself out?

When I order a new sprocket, does it matter what style I get? Should I order the splined washer and bolts and use that style instead?

Finally, how loud should the valvetrain be on these bikes?







Thank you for your time.
-Alex
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:59 PM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
I recently picked up a 1996 KLR 250 that I bought taken apart in boxes. I think I've done well putting everything back together, but a couple things are still throwing me off, especially with the front sprocket.

The parts fiche for my year shows some sort of splined washer that bolts to the sprocket. It doesn't appear that I have this style, but a clip that snaps over the counter shaft. There is also supposed to be a collar/spacer and oring behind the sprocket according to the '96 fiche.

How far does the collar go down onto the shaft? I appear to have a collar of sorts on the shaft now, but I was unable to pull it off with my hands and I didn't want to mar it up with tools.

Is what I have in the photos all I need for assembly? What keeps the sprocket from sliding up and down the shaft or eventually wallowing itself out?

When I order a new sprocket, does it matter what style I get? Should I order the splined washer and bolts and use that style instead?

Finally, how loud should the valvetrain be on these bikes?







Thank you for your time.
-Alex
From what you have in the pictures is different from my 94 klr250. My front counter shaft sprocket has two threaded holes in it. It then has the retaining washer that goes over the splines and is turned until lined up with the bolt holes on the sprocket. Then two bolts are used to hold the retainer to the sprocket. All of the sprockets I have ever ordered have come with the bolt holes in them. If you need I can take pictures tomorrow of what it looks like on my bike, Fred.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:38 PM   #1131
3DChief
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You are going to need a new sprocket anyhow, that one is shot! See how the teeth are fish-hooked? It's worn out, which means the rear sprocket and chain need replaced as well. Always replace them as a set or the worn parts will quickly wear out the new parts. My '99 KLR has the two bolt system holding it as well, but the retainer clip will work too. The sprocket will self-align with the chain and won't move much.


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Old 05-14-2013, 10:55 PM   #1132
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I think a new "holey" sprocket would be down-compatible with your countershaft clip system; just forget about the bolts. I find a 14-tooth sprocket more effective and versatile than the stock 15-tooth component for my riding style and environment, YMMV.

How loud are the valves? If set at TDC between compression and power strokes, not loud at all. Set at TDC between exhaust and intake strokes? Pretty loud, I imagine!
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:50 AM   #1133
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Thanks guys. I'm aware that I'm in need of a new sprocket, and that both sprockets and chain should be replaced at the same time, right now I'm just assembling to figure out what's missing so I can order parts.

It wasn't starting, so I decided to do the valves. I set them with the "T" lined up in the sight and the cam lobes facing away from each other. Am I missing something in this process?

Thanks again,
-Alex
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Old 05-21-2013, 03:50 PM   #1134
jules083
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Any recommendations on a 90/10 tire that doesn't raise the rear up much? The girlfriend is wanting a better off road tire than the shinko 244's on there now. I held up a new 606, the height is going to hurt her I think. Everything I look at is the same 130 size.

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Old 05-21-2013, 06:26 PM   #1135
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anyone have a tail light they want to sell ? busted mine up and needs me a new one .
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:42 PM   #1136
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Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Any recommendations on a 90/10 tire that doesn't raise the rear up much? The girlfriend is wanting a better off road tire than the shinko 244's on there now. I held up a new 606, the height is going to hurt her I think. Everything I look at is the same 130 size.

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Kenda K270 rear

Michelin T-63 front

Great tires!
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:34 PM   #1137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Any recommendations on a 90/10 tire that doesn't raise the rear up much? The girlfriend is wanting a better off road tire than the shinko 244's on there now. I held up a new 606, the height is going to hurt her I think. Everything I look at is the same 130 size.
Lowering links (2") might open up your options further by diminishing the increase in height from the tires, and at $85, I don't feel the price is too bad. They're a stellar piece of equipment and Norm Kouba provides excellent customer service. Link: http://www.koubalink.com/KLR250.html

I love mine, I'm 5'6" and they got the seat down where I can reach it more comfortably and I can keep my preload too. Side benefits are that they're lightweight and good lookin'!

Both lowering links, weight in grams.


One OEM link, weight in grams.


On the bike during installation. the links aren't normally as exposed.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:08 AM   #1138
jules083
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Kenda K270 rear

Michelin T-63 front

Great tires!
Looking more at a 606 equivalent.


I've thought about lowering links. How bad does it upset the handling and spring rates? When I lowered my xrr I hated it and went back to stock. Seems like it was never quite right when lowered.

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Old 05-22-2013, 04:06 PM   #1139
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I lowered the front by an inch in the clamps along with lowering the rear. I don't feel like it upset handling, a touch more stable at speed maybe. I'm able to run more preload than before the lowering links, so I can have proper sag set and still kickstart the bike without dumping it. I'm riding 95% on road, and slowly put along on mild fire roads when I venture off pavement, so I can't inform on how it changes serious off pavement handling. I am less prone to bottoming out the rear now, and I attribute the change to the increase in preload at the rear.
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:21 PM   #1140
jules083
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Originally Posted by kidflyr View Post
I lowered the front by an inch in the clamps along with lowering the rear. I don't feel like it upset handling, a touch more stable at speed maybe. I'm able to run more preload than before the lowering links, so I can have proper sag set and still kickstart the bike without dumping it. I'm riding 95% on road, and slowly put along on mild fire roads when I venture off pavement, so I can't inform on how it changes serious off pavement handling. I am less prone to bottoming out the rear now, and I attribute the change to the increase in preload at the rear.
Sounds like the linkage change may be different than my xr then. I was bottoming out more frequently, and ended up with the preload tight enough that the bike wasn't really much lower anymore. I ride pretty agressive on that bike, so its small jumps that I was bottoming. Maybe 10' out and 4' up.

I'll give it a shot, or maybe make my own links that only lower it 1". I'll have to measure my 606's to compare and see where she'll be at.

What I really need is another dual sport for her on dirt riding, then a second klr 250 for me because of how much fun it is.

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