ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-08-2013, 06:18 AM   #166
MingRidesBikes
Gnarly Adventurer
 
MingRidesBikes's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Oddometer: 193
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
Did you ever figure this out? !
I did, I had a bad connection between a splitter and my brake pressure switch. it was all wired correctly, just somehow when I sapped the 2 wires, brake and constant, the connection to the brake pressure switch somehow went bad. tore the entire thing apart and took the pressure switch in to get tested before I checked all my connectors... live and learn... lol
MingRidesBikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 08:50 PM   #167
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
Baja Kit

Anyone have a Baja Light Kit on their WR400? I just picked up a 98 that needs some attention, but not too much attention...to the extent I took a small chance on the bike.

A bit of a birds nest under the seat, but definitely started out as a Baja Design kit. Has a rectifier (i believe) and a "holding shelf" for a ni-cad battery bolted in the air box.

Does anyone have a diagram of wiring for a 1998 WR400 Baja Design kit? I'm trying to make heads or tails of the various loose ends....

ANY HELP would be MUCH appreciated!

Chuck
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 09:40 PM   #168
marbee40
Some Fear is Good
 
marbee40's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: 45 minutes-North-of-Los Anchorage
Oddometer: 1,087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
Anyone have a Baja Light Kit on their WR400?
Does anyone have a diagram of wiring for a 1998 WR400 Baja Design kit? I'm trying to make heads or tails of the various loose ends....
ANY HELP would be MUCH appreciated!
Chuck
Chuck,
PM me. I bought a 2001 WR426 last year that came with an unopened Baja Designs kit. I spent a few days putting it together and not too difficult, but I didn't have to deal with a rats nest! If you PM me your email, I'll scan the original BD instructions and send em off to ya! I'm sure it will be a damn sight better than what you have now! I doubt much changed from 1998 to 2001 and the kit was purchased new in 2002 (yes, I have the receipts from 2002!). I'd put it on here but ADV won't allow posting of pics anymore without an outside photo acccount.

Jim in AK
__________________
R1150GS
01 WR426F
marbee40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2013, 04:51 AM   #169
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
1998 WR400F Baja Design Wiring - fixing a nest or trying to

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco Moto View Post
Hey Chuck,

I have a WR426F that I wired myself (kick only, no battery, AC system).

Marco.
Thanks for the offer Marco, a PM has been sent. For reference purposes I have uploaded these pics on photobucket:

Ok....I believe these two wires, (1) brown and (1) green are from the original Baja kit. I think they are for signals which aren't at the moment on the bike. However, I'm not seeing any potential "open" grounds for them.
[IMG][/IMG]

Ok, this next photo is a bit of a mess. The red wire running across my index finger comes directly from what I believe is a rectifier, then marries with the black (in-line) fuse which runs from what I believe is the original BD harness and then has the wire (open end/no connection..it is black but believe it should be red) that runs directly over my wedding ring? Clear as mud, right? The black wire that comes in to view directly at the tip of my middle finger also originates from the rectifier. It splits a few times and appears to be a ground for a few things.

[IMG][/IMG]

As I have been typing this, and running a couple times back to the bike, I think I may have a plan. Each of the brown and green wires to an individual rear signal, each grounded to an open slot in the "two place" ground connections for my rear brake light....

I think the red and black wires described in the second picture will be run to the nicad or nihm battery....i "thunk".

Sorry for the rambling!
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2013, 05:57 AM   #170
Marco Moto
Voyager
 
Marco Moto's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: surrounded by the Great Lakes
Oddometer: 1,198
Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
Thanks for the offer Marco, a PM has been sent. For reference purposes I have uploaded these pics on photobucket:

Ok....I believe these two wires, (1) brown and (1) green are from the original Baja kit. I think they are for signals which aren't at the moment on the bike. However, I'm not seeing any potential "open" grounds for them.


Ok, this next photo is a bit of a mess. The red wire running across my index finger comes directly from what I believe is a rectifier, then marries with the black (in-line) fuse which runs from what I believe is the original BD harness and then has the wire (open end/no connection..it is black but believe it should be red) that runs directly over my wedding ring? Clear as mud, right? The black wire that comes in to view directly at the tip of my middle finger also originates from the rectifier. It splits a few times and appears to be a ground for a few things.


As I have been typing this, and running a couple times back to the bike, I think I may have a plan. Each of the brown and green wires to an individual rear signal, each grounded to an open slot in the "two place" ground connections for my rear brake light....

I think the red and black wires described in the second picture will be run to the nicad or nihm battery....i "thunk".

Sorry for the rambling!
Hey Chuck,
The rectifier takes the two wires coming from the alternator (AC wires, no positive or negative) and comes out with a red (Positive) and a black (negative).
Now the guy wired the positive through a fuse, which is ok, don't mind the black color here, just keep in mind that that is the positive.
If you're not familiar with a multi-meter, I would download the schematics for that particular BD kit, that way you can match the colors of the wires coming out of the handlebar switch.
Basically, you have to take the red and black wires coming out of the rectifier, connect them to the battery and then with another set of red and black run the lights. Meaning split them into:
a) one wire to go to the switch to run the headlight and tail light;
b) one wire to the front brake switch;
c) one wire to the rear brake switch.
If you are installing the turn signals one wire will go to the handlebar switch that runs the signals.

Now, the second connector that is on the brake switches will have to be wired to the brake light, so these will be two wires merging into one.
Same scenario for the headlight, there will be one wire going to the low beam AND tail light, and another going to the high-beam and merge into the same wire that goes into the tail light.

Sorry, but this is not easy to do "remotely" I wish you could come up to my shop and I guarantee you that we could solve this in 30 minutes.
I live right in the middle of the Mitt, north of Mount Pleasant, let me know if you are coming up for any reason, I'd like to help.
__________________
-Marco Moto
Marco Moto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2013, 01:03 AM   #171
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
Carburetor leaking...surprised....

...probably not.

Ok...so what have folks "strapped" on to their early model WR400s? Mine is a 98....or has someone actually had any success locating a rebuild kit? So far, lots of searching for a kit of replacement seals/o-rings/gaskets with no results.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:26 AM   #172
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
Electrical stuff...

On a 1998 WR400...

Ok...so, I have gotten a small nicad battery, front and rear signals installed, and the front/rear light is good to go with the battery charged.

Virtually no juice to run the front and rear lamp when no battery is in place and charged. My banjo bolt may be jacked as well...still trouble shooting that.

I'm thinking stator is the issue re: no/minimal lights when battery isn't charged.

I have seen various versions of "checking a stator" which don't seem to jive with what I'm looking at on this bike.

Any suggestions or steps that folks have done in the past?...and how many ohm/volts, etc... i may be looking at?

Thanks!
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"

Storyteller screwed with this post 05-26-2013 at 08:00 AM
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 10:37 AM   #173
LucasLeader
Gnarly Adventurer
 
LucasLeader's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
...probably not.

Ok...so what have folks "strapped" on to their early model WR400s? Mine is a 98....or has someone actually had any success locating a rebuild kit? So far, lots of searching for a kit of replacement seals/o-rings/gaskets with no results.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
I just got a carb from a 2004 WR that I'm getting ready to put on my '99. I don't really need it but the plan is to make it start easier and get rid of the bog.
LucasLeader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 04:31 AM   #174
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
Stator maybe?

Ok folks,

I have been occupying myself with a 1998 WR400 project.

The skinny is a prev. owner installed a Baja Designs dual sport lighting kit and then at some point removed all of the signals and nicad rechargeable battery. This is a kicks start only model.

I have replaced a few wires and installed some signals and worked a bit on the banjo bolt. With a fully charged nicad battery connected to the system, such as the Baja Designs nicad battery, the signals, headlight, tail light and brake light all work.

However, very quickly the baja designs battery is drained and the headlamp is virtually out...like stupid dim....and the rear running light is virtually nonexistent.

I just plugged my multi meter into the leads that connect to the nicad battery from the existing wiring system and after cranking the bike up I come away with DCV 20 of 3.4 and ACV200 of 6.7.

I'm not for sure what i'm looking for from these two leads....my understanding is that the battery should be charged through this avenue, as well as provide some degree of power to the system itself....but clearly charging is not occurring.

Bike starts fine...1st to 3rd kick everytime.

ANY thoughts or suggestions would be outstanding....

Thanks!
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 07:09 AM   #175
Kawidad
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kawidad's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,578
Personally, I would call tech support at BD.

However, I would suggest you get a schematic diagram of the stock wiring and then compare it to what you have. You need to find out if the PO installed the rectifier feature of the BD kit. IIRC, the WR came as an AC system only, but the full BD kit changes that to DC so you can run the horn and flasher relay, which only work on DC voltage. Lights will work on either AC or DC.

When I had mine, I found out the stator output of these bikes are very weak (even for a dirt bike) and can barely run lights. I switched to LED bulbs because they draw so much less electricity.
__________________
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes? - Juvenal
(Who watches the watchers)
Kawidad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 12:29 PM   #176
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
Alternative Stators

Read this on TT:

R1, R6, and Hayabusa coils will all work as well...cheap on e-bay.

That these can be used on a WR400 as replacement stators.

Anyone heard of this/used one?

Thanks!
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2013, 08:11 AM   #177
Kawidad
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kawidad's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,578
Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
Read this on TT:

R1, R6, and Hayabusa coils will all work as well...cheap on e-bay.

That these can be used on a WR400 as replacement stators.

Anyone heard of this/used one?

Thanks!
No. I don't see how that would work. A coil is a coil and a stator is a stator. 2 different animals.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
__________________
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes? - Juvenal
(Who watches the watchers)
Kawidad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2013, 04:11 AM   #178
Storyteller
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
Oddometer: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Storyteller View Post
Read this on TT:

R1, R6, and Hayabusa coils will all work as well...cheap on e-bay.

That these can be used on a WR400 as replacement stators.

Anyone heard of this/used one?

Thanks!
I meant R1, R6, and Hayabusa stators will supposedly work, not coils. I miss spoke/typed.

Should be receiving a WR426 stator in the next day or so to bolt on. We'll see.
__________________
"Life isn't perfect!" "In a jacked up situation, God has been good!"
Storyteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2014, 10:27 AM   #179
mrchristian
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: LA, CA
Oddometer: 258
Hey ADVrider WR400F gurus,

I have a WR400F with an older Baja Designs kit. I have had it for a few years and rarely used it on the road, so the turn signals and brake light were never hooked up (although they worked when I first bought the bike). The bike has always started.

I decided to figure everything out this weekend and get the bike 100% street legal. I mounted/connected turn signals, connected the brake light and soldered a few broken connections in the harness that connects those things. After everything was done, the bike started (twice) on the stand, but now it will not start at all which has never happened before. Is it possible I fried something? The fuse on the harness near the battery seems fine (it is completing a circuit when I test it with the battery). Now nothing works - no life from turn signals, running light or anything. I had the turn signals and the running light working. I couldn't get the brake light to work - found that the pressure switch on the rear brake pedal is broken and ordered a new one.

Some observations:
-The rear brake light was dead, and I swapped it with a new two-filament bulb. I might have put the wrong wattage in, but they seemed really similar.
-The headlight never worked. I hadn't got around to checking it at that point when I started the bike.
-The battery (my friend gave me an extra one) reads 13.8V when I started messing around. After running the brake light and checking turn signals all day it reads about 12.8V now.
-I sprayed WD40 into the turn signal portion of the switch. Felt like there was some dirt there and the right turn signal was acting finicky. Maybe I killed the switch somehow by doing this?
-I didn't touch the front harness at all.

What's the easiest / best way to start testing things to start narrowing down my starting issue? This bike started first kick on the stand and wouldn't start after that, so I'm almost sure I did something to the electrical to cause it. I doubt it would be fuel related (yes I checked to see that the petcock was on).

Also - anyone have a switch they want to sell? I have the older one with the orange turn signal switch. It doesn't look like the new switch they sell is compatible with my system since it doesn't have a kill switch.

Thanks,

-Christian
__________________
1999 Suzuki DR350SE
mrchristian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2014, 08:20 PM   #180
eddyturn
Wannabe
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Hesperus, CO
Oddometer: 1,714
I duuno about your problems but could it be loose battery cables? Sidestand switch or clutch switch? Just guessing.
__________________
All things being equal... fat people use more soap
eddyturn is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014