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Old 09-11-2012, 10:31 AM   #121
Pr0xy
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A rubber mallet is one way... I've found that bouncing the wheel a few times off the floor seems to work also.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:45 PM   #122
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxfire View Post
Both my wheel sets are a compromise (hell, the DR itself is a compromise). D606 on stock wheels (w/hd tubes) for dirty stuff, Distanzias on 17"/19" (w/standard tubes) for twisty stuff. Tried 17"/17" and didn't like em.
Same basic thing here,I like the 19" on the front,Shinko 705's on the 19"/17" set of wheels.
Stock wheels get what ever knobbies I have around,usually a 606 on the back and regular knob on the front.
Ive tried the Mefo's,took em off halfway through their tread life and put em in the basement,rear was about smoked in 2000 miles and never really hooked up on anything. The best thing was they would both break loose and slide on pavemento at full lean.
Not my favorite.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:05 PM   #123
Heavy
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Tried that one. Even went so far as to put the wheel back on and drive it around, aiming for all the bumps and potholes I could find. Didn't do it until I got the pressure way up.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr0xy View Post
A rubber mallet is one way... I've found that bouncing the wheel a few times off the floor seems to work also.
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:21 PM   #124
sagedrifter
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If you keep having problems getting tires to seat, try this: http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/8446008/

I don't have any trouble getting the tires on most of the time with just water, but some times the rubber is sticky, soft, too hot etc. Then having a tire lube is ideal and makes things seat with no drama. One time it works fine dry, next time it needs some moisture, then its very catchy and won't seat, lube to the rescue..
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:34 PM   #125
kstoo
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I have a 2007. What wheels are interchangeable with this year? Can I use any wheel from 1996-2013? Anything that I need to watch out for?
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:07 AM   #126
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstoo View Post
I have a 2007. What wheels are interchangeable with this year? Can I use any wheel from 1996-2013? Anything that I need to watch out for?
All of them, yes, nope.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:03 PM   #127
Nessman
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=78

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessman View Post
I spooned on a new pair of Shinkos 705 tires this weekend to replace my DOT knobbies, it's a commuter bike...no dirt.

Rode to work in the rain this morning and they were solid, I was a bit anxious about new tires on wet roads but no worries.

Also replaced the PO-installed 14 tooth front sprocket with a stock 15 tooth, much better road bike now.



Edit to clarify 705 tires.
Two years and ~5000 miles of urban commando duty and they're still kicking. I do no dirt, very little freeway riding and have a couple of nice corners on my way to work to keep the flat spots away





When I bought these BB gave me a hella deal on a second set, hopefully I can wear them out before my second set goes bad.

Big for my 705s
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:16 PM   #128
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
...i use ruglyde from napa. ...
+1. The stuff is $15 / gallon , their smallest size.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:28 AM   #129
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlmaffucci View Post
I've never changed a tube on a motorcycle before. What is the basic process? Just so I'm not lost when I have to do it myself. Is it really as hard as y'all make it sound? Is this a good tool for the job?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0519/

Should I also get a tire iron? Would this be sufficiant tools for the job.
read Neduro's thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717

and yes that is a great tool to own if you have no tools at this moment and have not changed a tire. breaking a bead can often be on of the hardest things to do with some tire designs. you might want to add 1 more tire lever in the mix (that tool offers 2) as i found having 3 is key at times.

the biggest trick to mounting is to not pinch the tube by mistake (slightly inflate the tube so it does not fold on itself and wedge in the bead area or get nicked by a tire iron & use some baby powder) and to push the already mounted bead side of the tire down into the rim well (center dished area) so you gain length & room to finish mounting the tire bead onto the rim. those that have problems getting the last bit of tire on the rim often forget to push the opposite side of the tire bead into the well!

these help a ton out in the field
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=538235
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=380877 - I use this one

biggest tip i can offer you: 1st practice changing tires at home!!!
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:17 AM   #130
Midpack
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3 Day ride impression

Just back from a 3 day, 3 bike ride of 830 miles along the NM/Mexico and AZ/NM boarders. The DR had a fresh set of Shinko 705s on my back up rims. Sizes were 90/90 21 and 130/90 17 aired at 26 front and 28 rear which measured 28/30 once the tires warmed up. A 2lb gain is what I understand to be a good gauge for proper tire settings. This was all 2 lane state roads with about 50 miles of I 10 and 6000 feet of elevation change. These tires ROCK, they feel planted in corners, turn in is good, and absorb irregularities well. With stock gearing the bike cruised at 75 to 80 keeping up with a KTM 950 and Triumph 800XC. Tire wear was minimal and no chicken strips! Just ordered an EBC oversized
rotor and pad set to take advantage of the grip these tires supply. Also looking into lacing a 19" rim to the front hub.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:28 PM   #131
eakins
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tire discussion:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134337
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:31 PM   #132
SBG
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Rehoboth MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr0xy View Post
Has anyone run the Kenda 784 Big Block on the rear?

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/k...FcHsKgod4S4A9A

I'm coming off of 606's for now and trying to find slightly more street-worthy tires, though they will still need to be dirt-capable.

What about the front?

What say ye? There are just so many options my head is spinning.
I forget what the stock tires were that came on my 1990, but they were okay and lasted about 4k miles. When it was time to switch up, I went with Dunlop 606's. They were a decent off-road tire, but they seemed like they were more for hardpack. As they wore, the knobs, especially the front started looking like Dragon teeth. That said, they actually gripped the road very well if it was dry. I could get some scary angles for knobbies like that on the road.

They only lasted about 2500/3k. As they wear, they really start to vibrate a lot, and anything over 85 mph isn't recommended after about 1000 miles of use.

The Continental Escapes were next and I'm about to replace them after about 6000 miles. The front is still nearly mint, but the rear is history, as to be expected. I must say, for a tire that is 90% street, my friends talked me into some single track. I have to say, I was impressed. I relied a LOT more on momentum then ever before. Braking was almost non existent and doing heard was what got me around corners because it locked up way too easy and would just slide without effective showing down a 350 lbs bike. Same thing with obstacles. Momentum, because without it, traction would be hard to find.

So, if you're a street guy most of the time, the Escape is excellent, and I must say, dry traction is great as my chicken strips are VERY small.

And now for something different. I was rolling on 130's with my tires and decided to step it up to a 150 big block. I also decided to get a wider wheel. I'm going with a 4.25 so the tire won't be so deformed. Once it's mounted I'll give an evaluation on the Kenda big block.

Pic of uncounted big block next to my mounted Conti Escape.

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Old 08-26-2014, 01:22 AM   #133
Midpack
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150 Big Block

Just a thought, did you consider the added weight of the Big Block verses the 606? I checked their spec's finding a 2lb. difference. Then add the extra weight of the wider wheel. This will effect your suspension for off road and acceleration. It will defiantly look impressive.
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